I know this topic has been beat to death, I hate to start another thread, but I gotta know.. Why is there a need for a secondary filter? Why not just replace the OEM filter more frequently?


And while I'm about to change my OEM filter (10k miles) is there a better aftermarket replacement?

The problem is that the OEM filter is only capturing roughly 50% of the contaminants in diesel fuel which cause accelerated pump and injector wear rates. The diesel fuels we are buying are either not filtered or minimally filtered for particle fractions less than 30 microns in size; thus millions of abrasive particles per gallon go through our Duramax pump and injector with the OEM filter. Depending on diesel fuel source quality/dirt level, significantly shortened pump and injector life. Secondary filters can provide up to 98%+ filtration efficiency in capturing the 5 to 10 micron size contaminant which results in a huge reduction in the target wear causing contaminants and fuel system and many level increase in fuel system life and engine performance.


George Morrison

Its catching the high hopping frogs and low flying birds, but not the little stuff. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Thanks for the info. Is there a better direct replacement for the OEM filter? I'm planning on adding a pre-OEM filter but I'd like to replace the OEM with a better unit as well if there's one available..

No, that is the problem; there are no 'better' OEM style fuel filters currently available. At this point the GM filter is it. There are other 'brands' but all are re-branded OEM.. The only options are to add supplmental filtration or do as I did, put in your own 1,000 gallon tank equipped with a 2 micron desiccant breather and 2 micron beta 2000 fuel filter providing 12/10/8 ISO cleanliness fuel into my tank.
George MorrisonEdited by: Georgecls

That's too bad.. You'd think that in the three years the duramax has been out somebody would have started making a better OEM-replacement filter.

I still want one of you smart machinist type guys to manufacture an adapter to allow a good filter to be screwed onto the stock base. I've heard rumors of someone doing just that. I, for one would pay hadsomely for such an item. You would lose the water in fuel sensor, but that wouldn't bother me too much.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

A64 pilot,


There is an adapter out there! About a month ago there was a thread on the other page about a guy who had made one in his garage. Don't remember his name, but you could probably find it on search. If I remember correctly, it adapted either the CAT or RACOR 2 micro.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif


Left some serious concerns tho about warranty problems taking the OEM off.Edited by: chipper

That thread died because of the mods at the 'other page' screaming vendor vendor, you must pay extra http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif.


It seemed there's more to adding an adapter than just making it, unless someone pulled him aside and they're working on the marketing aspect of it.

BROKER...... what's your opinion?

chipper,


What I want is an adapter that can be screwed on or off so that the reinstallation of a stock filter should be simple if your worried about warranty concerns. It may of course also require the filter head to be shimmed out some also.

a64pilot,


That is what he had made. I think there was also a thread on WWW.pickuptrucks.com (http://www.pickuptrucks.com) about this. On second thought I think that is where it origionated.

I looked for the link and didn't have any luck but I like the idea. Send me a PM if you find the link I am pretty interested in this way of gettig around GM and their crapy fuel filter.

I have thought of making something like that but here is what prevents me:


1) warranty - some liability is surely incurred when you remove the OEM fuel filter from someone's 40k truck.. not sure if i want that to be me. IMHO the OEM filter needs to stay


2) multiple filters are better than one, at least i think so. george has proven filters in succession work better as the second doesn't have to work so hard. if i can run a CAT pre-oem and the OEM filter, why would i want just one when i can have two?


3) water seperator - i do think that you should keep the oem as a water seperator. i've never seen any water in mine, but think it really should be there even if you emulsify (which i do).


4) granted the idea sounds neat, but i guess i wonder why would you want to do that when we already have a couple excellent aftermarket filtration options. i do like the idea, but if i were faced w/ the choice of secondary filtration or an OEM replacement, i'd take the aftermarket for the simple reason that i think 2 filters are better than one.


then again i think its neat to show off the cat stuff too.. just today at the gas station i showed a cummins owner the filter.. "Damn, you got a CAT filter on that rig? That's cool" was what he said.. not that this last part really matters to anyone but me http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif

Roger that, but with a pre-OEM setup, it's not going to catch rust that originates from the POS OEM filters. I agree that two filters are better than one, I'd just rather have two CAT filters on there and no OEM junker.


Is there any point in ever changing the OEM filter if you've got a pre-OEM setup? I mean, anything small enough to get through the pre-OEM will go right through the OEM like it's not even there, won't it? So will the OEM ever trap anything at all?

chipper,


If you find out how to get one, I want one too.


Diesel power,


1. I would be removing it, it would be easy to undo, so I don't worry about the warranty.


2. multiple filters are better, I agree absolutely! I just think it makes more sense to filter say to 10 microns first then to 2, not the other way around.


3. I emulsify, I don't think it's an issue for Me, I can only speak for Myself.


4.Why does it have to be one or the other? I'm thinking both to be honest. See #2 above. I think that two big Cat's would beat One Cat and the stock filter.


Edited by: a64pilot

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and I like it already. I have been a machinist for nearly 18 years and I like A64Pilot's idea of having 2 filters, first one for catching the big chunks and the second for the smaller particles. I have never changed the fuel filter in my truck and now I am scared to. I have 40,000 miles on it and this is my first diesel. I have always been used to changing the fuel filter at 50K. As soon as I get my truck back from the dealership I will be looking at the installation of a new filter and a pre-filter. I will be looking at a way to design an adaptor to fit an aftermarket filter in place of the OEM. If I have any luck I will post it and let everyone know. My only question is where can I get one of these RACOR filters? Is this an order on-line item only or would any parts store carry them?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

acehi,


Any filter you can get that fit's the stock mount so far is a Racor, no matter what it says on the can. I think a screw on thread adapter would do what I want, of course the threads on the replacement filter would have to be bigger than the stock ones of course.


BTW, don't wait until you make something, change your filter now!!! Filters appear to load up and release alot of the contaminants they have been trapping over time if the are run too long. I don't know if the restriction get's so high that the filter element finally tears or what, but bad things happen. IMHO a lot of the injector wear is from uninformed owners not changing their filters early enough. But, I'm of the opinion that fuel can't be too clean. I just want to double filter is all, with the capability of reinstalling the stock filter by merely screwing off one filter and screwing on the stock one.

acehi,


You can see pictures of & adapter that has already been made here:


http://www.oldmacksrus.com/duramax_picts.htm http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif

BROKER...... what's your opinion?


We like our set-up.(Twin Pre Racors) But i will agree that a better OEM would be nice.We bought a cutter and were equaly upset with a few rusted OEM filters.Mind you we have cut 22 filters and only 4 were rusted.Poor quality control IMO.We have no issues with injectors right now but the 1 incedent on the #8 injector on the 02.


I think my trucks do well on injectors due to little idleing ,constantly running and lack of frequent stop-start-go situations.I believe preassure boxes can hurt also,but that is another story.


With what we have to work with,i can only say change the OEM filter frequently.Edited by: BROKER

Broker,


You mention twin pre Racors. Are you running two additional filters in addition to the OEM? This is the mind set I'm in. I'm considering doing a 7 micron output to a 2 micron then it goes to the OEM. Overkill, I agree but should be very effective.

I currently run a 30u Racor into a 2u Racor on the frame rail pre-OEM. At next change I will replace the 30u with a 10u.


Steve

Where can I buy a RACOR or CAT filter? Which one is better? I see everyone talking about 10 microns, 2 microns and such. What part number for the filters would I look for to get these? Chipper, I seen the pictures of the prefilter, where would I get a setup like that? Sorry for all the questions but I want to have all this stuff done by the weekend. I don't want to run my truck any longer until I get this changed. When I do get it changed I will cut the OEM filter open and take some pictures to let everyone see what a filter with 40k miles on it looks like.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif

Racor has a heater option (good option for Alaska) and water drain. Check vendor section of forum.

I currently run a 30u Racor into a 2u Racor on the frame rail pre-OEM. At next change I will replace the 30u with a 10u.


Steve








ragtop any pics of rail mount, had my oil changed today so i asked about running a xtra fuel filter GM said no trouble with warranty

<font size="3">Where can I buy a RACOR or CAT filter? Which one is better? I see everyone talking about 10 microns, 2 microns and such. What part number for the filters would I look for to get these? Chipper, I seen the pictures of the prefilter, where would I get a setup like that? Sorry for all the questions but I want to have all this stuff done by the weekend. I don't want to run my truck any longer until I get this changed. When I do get it changed I will cut the OEM filter open and take some pictures to let everyone see what a filter with 40k miles on it looks like.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif</font>

You're in Alaska..... be careful. Either additive and/or a heater. Get a Racor with a heater

acehi,


The owner of the adapter I posted uses the handle "corndog" &amp; is from Max Meadows, Va. Sorry , I don't have any more info on him. He is a member of the diesel page.

I went all over town today and found one place that carries the racor filters. They had several different styles. I was looking at the ones that have a bottom threaded portion for adding one of those plastic caps on for draining water/heater option. I am thinking if I get it I can make an aluminum cap for the bottom and thread it to fit the WIF sensor. I also read in one of these posts that the heater is built into the fuel filter housing. If this is true I will already have the heater and I will not lose out on the WIF sensor. Anyone heard of anything different on the heater? Is this something you had in mind A64Pilot?

Acehi, You need a heater for every filter is the way I understand it. If the diesel gets cold it will jell and not pass through the media in the filter. I believe the stock filter head on our trucks have one built in (but I am not sure) but if you were to add another filter it would need to be heated unless it was pre heated by the stock heater and in a post install.

As long as one is running a winterized fuel or a winter 'treated' fuel (Primrose 409), clogging should not be an issue. I work with CAT D-10 bulldozers equipped with the CAT 2 micron fuel filter; during winter this equipment sits atop a blue ridge mountain in sub-zero temps and come Monday morning, totally cold soaked, the dozers start and run without stoppage. They are not equipped with fuel heaters.
If there is any doubt about your fuel source, winter treat it for insurance. There is *nothing* quite like being stranded on a freeway in sub-zero temps with a clogged fuel filter!
George Morrison

achi,


I just wanted to be able to put a 2 micron filter on the stock head, anything past that would be gravy. Being able to keep the WIF sensor would be great, I had not even considered that as a possibility. I am more than 90% sure that the heater is part of the filter head. I live in the south and am allergic to cold and pain so a heater is not an issue with me, but I would make sure I kept one where you live even if treated fuel will flow in Alaska temps. Murphy is a friend of mine, he must be, as he is always with Me, so I have learned to plan for him.


Racor I know has a heated filter head that would work as a pre-filter. I believe that Stanadyne also has one but I'm not sure. Greg Landytug I think sells Racor as well as many others. You may even be able to find one locally.

a64pilot, Stanadyne makes a nice one, model FM100. It is available with 150,30,10 and 2 micron elements. It is quite a system, has many options, including heaters, electric primers, electric lift pumps. You can read all about it on their website. I have a bare FM100 head and 150 micron element, I got at the Cat dealer. Have yet to install it. I may put it between my Cat pre OEM and the fuel tank. Not sure if I would need a lift pump with 3 filters between the tank and rail pump, but from what I have read, it looks like it.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/CCA_IMG_0442.JPG

As I've written before, I wish I would have left more room between the heads to allow a straighter run between them. One head bracket is mounted to existing holes in the frame, the 2nd head I had to drill for. Didn't want to re-do them.


Steve


note: I still have to wire up the heaters (both have them) but have been busy remodeling and selling my house. Moving in 3 weeks.Edited by: Ragtop

My problem with leaving the stock filter is that I would have three filters. As is My TST comp box "burst's" at higher settings. Seems like the truck is starving for fuel. Whatever it is. It definately is worse as the filter get's more miles on it. I personally would like two big (low restriction) filters as opposed to three. I'm trying to stay away from an electric boost pump if I can. For me I believe that an adapter is what I want, but I don't have the talent/tools to produce one.

As I've written before, I wish I would have left more room between the heads to allow a straighter run between them. One head bracket is mounted to existing holes in the frame, the 2nd head I had to drill for. Didn't want to re-do them.


Steve


note: I still have to wire up the heaters (both have them) but have been busy remodeling and selling my house. Moving in 3 weeks.





Why not try a 90 degree fitting instead of the straight out fittings ???


Then you can shorten the run.





Thttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifNY

The OUT on one head does not line up with the IN on the other head. Looking at the picture, the OUT of the left head is towards the frame rail while the IN of the 2nd head is away from the rail (plugs visible on 2nd head). As close as I have them, the fuel line was not flexible enough to make the angle without kinking. I tried several routings and this was the safest to ensure unkinked flex lines. More room between them would have allowed a longer flex line with more room to make the bend.


Steve

Ragtop,


I'm also looking at the possibility of running dual filters. However, I would like to have matching heads (meaning input on one side and output on the other side) to eliminate the exact problem you're having. I want to be able to hardline the two filters together instead of having to use a hose between them. This also allows me to put the two filters together with minimal spacing between.


Dale

When I was out shopping around town trying to find someone that carried the racor filters, I noticed that they had a dual head setup for them. It doesn't look hard to take the OEM head off and make a block/spacer to extend out and accomodate that setup and keep it under the hood. However, I did notice under another topic where someone showed a step by step process of removing the filter by bending the a/c line and pulling it out the top. When I changed my filter today, after 42,000 miles, OMG, it was nasty. Anyway, when i changed my filter I noticed my passenger side had a lot more room then the one he had shown. Maybe it is because mine is a 2001 and his was newer. But I have plenty of room to accomodate the dual head setup. Just thought you would be interested to know that there is a setup already made for that.

You could run a solid nipple between the two, even with the offset feeds. Then make a bracket that conforms.

I would not run anything solid between the two filter heads. When you go down the road, the filters are subject to vibration. Try tapping the side of the filters shown in the picture and you will see what I mean. If you used a piece of solid tubing or nipple, there will eventually be a fatigue problem. Best to stick with a small piece of rubber hose to isolate the two filter heads (in my opinion).

As an old aircraft mechanic I have seen the damage that vibration can do &amp; I have to agree with OC_DMAX, use a flexible coupling. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

I don't agree. Matter of fact you could have less vibration. I believe Racor makes multi-filter units for boats that are rigidly plumbed and mounted on a frame.

They are both mounted to the frame brakete individually... vibrating.

I don't see how making them a rigid assy makes them vibrate more as long as both heads are bolted to a frame of some sorts.

This is not something I would argue to the last straw about.Edited by: hoot

One more voice/humble opinion.


If the brackets were made to flex and bend similar to aluminum struts in an aircraft, then I would agree that a fixed metal hose would be a problem. I suspect the brackets aren't aluminum and were designed to be rigid, so a fixed hose shouldn't be a problem.

I have one of the brackets shown in the picture above on my truck. There is a fair amount of flex/vibration in the filter and filter head. The picture above shows two filters mounted with separate brackets. Each filter will move independently. Over time, there will be a problem with a rigid tubing connection between the two filter heads. That is my opinion.


If both filters were mounted on a plate that was bolted to the frame and the bottom of the filters were fixed to the same plate, then I would agree you could use a rigid piece of tubing.Edited by: OC_DMAX

I have one of the brackets shown in the picture above on my truck. There is a fair amount of flex/vibration in the filter and filter head. The picture above shows two filters mounted with separate brackets. Each filter will move independently. Over time, there will be a problem with a rigid tubing connection between the two filter heads. That is my opinion.


If both filters were mounted on a plate that was bolted to the frame and the bottom of the filters were fixed to the same plate, then I would agree you could use a rigid piece of tubing.

I agree but if I was to rigidly plumb them, I would make the bracket one unit. This isn't rocket science here and we're not building an airplane with flexible wings. We are talking about a rigid bracket with two filters bolted solidly to it. That would reduce vibration as opposed to the two seperate assy's where you are using a flexible hose because you know there is vibration between the two.

BTW: I think the flexible hose is fine.Edited by: hoot

My intent, if I go to dual single heads, is to mount them together on a singe plate and then mount the plate to the frame. In this manner they are mounted equally and move equally. In this manner the rigid connection should not be a factor.


I'm still weighing all my options but I intend to do something in the very near future. Truck now has almost 5K miles.


ACEHI - When I called Racor their tech told me that Racor does not make a dual head manifold. Was the setup you saw a single manifold with dual ports for the filter or was it two single heads mounted together on a single mounting bracket?


Dale

Dale,


The setup I saw was one single manifold with two ports. I don't know if it was made by racor but they had racor filters on it on the display wall. I will try to go by there tomorrow and see if I can take a digital picture of it. I will try to find out who makes it and how compatible it is with the racor filters. I will find out what I can and let you all know. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


Jeff

I saw a two fitler "manifold" on the Racor web site, but I believe that the idea was to use one, and when it was due service, you changed valves to put the other on line without shutting down the equipment. I think it is for stationary engines. Too bad!

........I want to add a Racor 460 (4120) fuel filter in line prior to the OEM filter but I'll be damned if I can find the room for one under the hood. Could anyone out there please recommend a good place to install one. Thanx..............................Steve... Edited by: shuffman

I hung the larger one... 690R2... in the wheel well...

The 400 Series has a primer pump.. you don't need it and it restricts flow. Get the 600 Series head... no pump... higher flow rates.

http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/fuelfilter/images/DSCN3051.jpg

Hey Hoot, where did you get that green fuel, Mars??http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif Someone brought up the idea of 90 degree elbows coming out of the filters, this will really restrict fuel flow. I for one am going to mount my filters on the dash board.........

It's green around here.

Dale,


The setup I saw was one single manifold with two ports. I don't know if it was made by racor but they had racor filters on it on the display wall. I will try to go by there tomorrow and see if I can take a digital picture of it. I will try to find out who makes it and how compatible it is with the racor filters. I will find out what I can and let you all know. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


Jeff





Thanks Jeff. I've been reading pretty much everything I could find on the fuel filter issues. I've weighed the pre and post options and I've read where some individuals are running both a pre and a post. I've even talked to Nick about buying two single cat heads if I can't find a dual port manifold. He feels that the one head will be work just fine and I agree. However, I also agree with a lot of other people that running a 2 micron post OEM filter may be a better solution since you're filtering it with the 7 micron and then the 2 micron.


So, my solution is I'm looking at a dual port manifold with a 7 micron and then a 2 micron filter, pre OEM. At this point I don't care about the OEM filter. It's just there. It has the primer pump on it and the water seperator. Other than that it's not responsible for anything.


Anyone else have any thoughts on this setup? I fully agree it goes above and beyond what is needed. However, it will give me the maximum filtration without going to my own fuel storage tank as George has done. In the long run it's simply cheap insurance.


Dale

Hoot:


Great picture man. How do I prime that filter when I change it if there is no primer on the housing? What size of filter do you recommend ie: 2 micron, 10 micron, 30 micron etc.? Thanx ...............Steve...Edited by: shuffman

This fuel filter thing has been beat into the ground once too many times. Everybody should end their worries and install a Racor 490 in place of the OEM. That is unless you want to keep on complaining or just like talking about the OEM filter.


I replaced the OEM with the Racor this weekend. I Made an adapter plate to bolt it in the same spot and you end all dirty fuel problems all under $200.00. If you want the heater add another 100.00. I didnt think it was needed but you could always add it later.


If anybody wants photos I will take some pics tomorrow and post them.

How much? You need to go into production http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Yes pics would be appreciated!Edited by: hoot

So as I understand it, you removed the OEM head and installed a new complete Racor 490 in its place? You're not going to get any arguments from anyone here. We're just concerned about how GM is going to treat us after the fact. My dealer has no problem with me adding the additional filter(s). Haven't approached him with the idea of completely replacing the head, which is what most of us would like to do anyway.

The way I see it, if you made a change to your vehicle that has caused a failure you would have a problem.


An example would be if you had an injector fail because Teflon tape you used to seal a fitting got to the injector and caused the failure...... well you have a problem. Past that I dont know that a dealer would have a problem with any improvement to the fuel system especially if it is a clean installation. It's a proven fact that dirt kills injectors.


I have found that when you deal with "truck dealers" they have a bit more understanding than those "car dealers". Many truck dealers add racor systems as standard practice. I also installed a frame mounted perm-cool set-up.


I'll post the pics later today.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/69F_P2030094.JPG
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/43E_P2030095.JPGEdited by: hoot

Nice!