I recently purchased a used 2001 F350 PSD with 65,000 miles. I have a few questions I was hoping some of you experienced "Diesel Junkies" might be able to answer. BTW, I tow a Cat Skidsteer on a regular basis and sometimes haul 1 Ton plus in the bed (not at same time).

<LI>I have been using Chevron Delo 400 15W/40. Some friends are saying to switch to synthetic. Other professional truck drivers who haul for me say Shell is the best product (non-syn). Should I switch to synthetic and what brand should I switch to? Should I go to Shell Oil and what grade? Should I be using any additives like Lucas Oil Treatment? Kinda lost in the hype on my side. Opinions are much appreciated.</LI>
<LI>What should I be using in the rear end, front diff, and manual tranny?</LI>
<LI>When do glowplugs need replacing?</LI>
<LI>Are aftermarket chips worth the $$$?</LI>


Thank you for any input. Also, if there are any links to maintenance schedules for the PSD I would be very appreciative (vehicle manual seems inadequate)

1. Synth oil can run $20/gal or more. IMO Unless you run a bypass oil filter utilizing extended oil changes then it is cost prohibitive. Shell Rotella T, Delo 400, Delvac 1300 are all top notch dyno oils, unless you are not happy then I see no reason to change. I do not like any oil additives, period.


2.The oil type to use in the diffs,tranny, and any friction additives needed will be specified in the owners manual as is the maintenance schedule. What do you want to know about the maintenance that the manual does not cover?


3. When the engine gets hard to start in the cold, check the whole glow plug system. Glow plugs can be tested without removing the valve covers. Unplug the harness from the two (each side) valve cover gasket plugs, probe the gasket terminals to ground, the outer pins are the g/p terminals. they should be between .9-1.2 ohms if the g/p's are still good. Always replace them with Motorcraft/Beru brand g/p's. No other brand, period. Autozone has them for less then $10.00 ea. Part #ZD-11. You will also need a 1/4" drive 10mm deep socket to remove them, and some fuel line to install them.


4.I like chips better than programmers, but I am also the sole driver, and I have no warranty issues to contend with, I can change the settting on the fly, and get numerous custom progams.


Edited by: Ggg6

Navistar, the maker of the PSD engine, do not recommend the use of Rotela oil.

Mylash

Not to start an argument over oils, but I do not believe the statement about Rotella T is true. My Local IH dealer, and the one I worked for all used it extensively in all engines. When I was wrenching for IH I do not recall seeing any memos from IH on that oil being not approved for any engine let alone the T444e. Later in my career I was a fleet mechanic for a very large waste hauling company both local and OTR trucks. At that time they had no less then 100-125 trucks with the T444e in them, with a combined mileage in the 10's of millions of miles using Rotella T with no oil issues. I do not mean to sound like a pro Rotella T and anti everything else, but I have never heard of this before.

I use shell oil in my big diesels and haven't had any problems with it. We even have some rigs with 900,000 miles on the original motor. As for the glow plugs I replaced mine at around 110,000 miles. You can test them by hooking a test light to the battery then touch the tip of the light to the end of the glow plug. If it doesn't light up the filament or whatever in the plug is burnt out and not heating up.

Another excellent source to any questions you may have regarding your PSD is thedieselstop.com which deals primarily with the ford trucks. As for Rotella not being recommended for any IH engine, I don't believe it for a second. The local dealer here uses it in everything from busses and trucks to farm machinery. They are also a distributor! I have personally used it in no less than 10 diesels with nothing but excellent results.

I've heard to stay away from the Lucas oil additive. I've used Lucas tranny and diesel fuel treatment but won't use the oil treatment. It's supposed to bubble up which is bad for the injectors.

Superchips makes an excellent fuel management system that is well worth the $300. It has variable levels of performance and only takes a couple of minutes to install. I suggest upgrading your air filter to a k&n for the extra air flow apx $100. Happy Motoring. adcgrp

I recommend a pyrometer gauge for anybody you uses a chip/tunner/addon. Turbos are expensive to replace and a pyrometer is cheap insurance in insuring a long life of your turbo. Plus, you can also know when it is safe to shut the truck off after towing or a heavy right foot. Just watch gauge and wait untill temp reaches 300 deg(pre-turbo) for a least a min or two. Pyros can also tell you when you truck is getting max fuel efficiency (600 degrees pre-turbo). The do not cross line is 1,250 deg (pre-turbo), you can cross it for short times (less than a min.). Above 1,250 deg. the turbo will start to glow and eat it self alive.

Navistar, the maker of the PSD engine, do not recommend the use of Rotela oil.

Mylash<------dont take advise from someone who dosent even know who builds the engine in your truck!! ive toured the powerstroke plant at indy and talked to the engineers that designed this engine for several hours ant the Powerfest Rally......rotella oil is fine

Superchips makes an excellent fuel management system that is well worth the $300. It has variable levels of performance and only takes a couple of minutes to install. I suggest upgrading your air filter to a k&n for the extra air flow apx $100. Happy Motoring. adcgrp
funny ive never seen anything on superchips website or their booths at events called a fuel managment system, if your talking about a superchips microtuner(scmt 1705) , for the money id rather set it on fire and dance around then spend it on a scmt, and a k&n????wtf??? only if you want a dusted turbo and maybe an engine....put a tymar style( donaldson filter) or an afe but k&n filters were never designed for diesel airflow
I recommend a pyrometer gauge for anybody you uses a chip/tunner/addon. Turbos are expensive to replace and a pyrometer is cheap insurance in insuring a long life of your turbo. Plus, you can also know when it is safe to shut the truck off after towing or a heavy right foot. Just watch gauge and wait untill temp reaches 300 deg(pre-turbo) for a least a min or two. Pyros can also tell you when you truck is getting max fuel efficiency (600 degrees pre-turbo). The do not cross line is 1,250 deg (pre-turbo), you can cross it for short times (less than a min.). Above 1,250 deg. the turbo will start to glow and eat it self alive.
__________________
98.5 F350 7.3L auto and this guy ??????No, f-350's were sold as 98's , they were built in 98 but sold as 99's as far as what was said turbos can stand more heat than you can ever put into them,,, go offshore watch the turbos on the stationary genset on a rig for awhile, that turbo glows for hours on end...1250 is the line though any higher and the aluminum the pistons are made of will melt right off the wristpin

sorry for the rant but a bunch of cheby/izuzu guys talkin bout how to fix a ford /IH product they know nothin about drives me crazy

WOW...This board is pretty awesome...I might have to go buy a new Ford.

):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h ):h

I recently purchased a used 2001 F350 PSD with 65,000 miles. I have a few questions I was hoping some of you experienced "Diesel Junkies" might be able to answer. BTW, I tow a Cat Skidsteer on a regular basis and sometimes haul 1 Ton plus in the bed (not at same time).


I have been using Chevron Delo 400 15W/40. Some friends are saying to switch to synthetic. Other professional truck drivers who haul for me say Shell is the best product (non-syn). Should I switch to synthetic and what brand should I switch to? Should I go to Shell Oil and what grade? Should I be using any additives like Lucas Oil Treatment? Kinda lost in the hype on my side. Opinions are much appreciated.
What should I be using in the rear end, front diff, and manual tranny?
When do glowplugs need replacing?
Are aftermarket chips worth the $$$?





Thank you for any input. Also, if there are any links to maintenance schedules for the PSD I would be very appreciative (vehicle manual seems inadequate)
1:confused:
2 DINO is just fine for our trucks ules you like the idea of spending $90 for an oil change to do it your self
3 front and rear are good till 100,000 I think the ZF6 is also 100,000
4 when they quite working
5 TS PERFORMANCE:ro) :cool2: :D :D :D :beerchug: :rocking: baby ther chips rock my trucks made 336rwh with a chip down pipe and open k&n

:chillpill :chillpill :duh: :exactly: :grd:

go to a ford forum........

TS and DI both have awesome chips. The Di would come on a little stronger on the bottom end than the TS. AS for an air filter for all around performance if you are not modded to heavy is the Ford AIS for the powerstroke. Much better than the stock crappy box and does not affect warranty issues. The filter is donaldson powercore technology. Just wish they would do something like that for the Dmax. Good luck.:)