Rear axle leak [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Rear axle leak


Sir-Col
11-13-2004, 12:50 AM
Hello all, my truck has developed a rear axle hub leak, apparently from the inner seal, as there is axle grease all over the inside of the LR rim. How difficult is this to fix, and is this a common problem. Lastly is there some sort of protection for the brake disc pads, and the e-brake shoes...any thoughts opinions and comments would be appreciated...thanks


Sir-ColEdited by: Sir-Col

Pure Diesel
11-13-2004, 01:05 AM
Hi Sir-Col,


I had my left axle seal replaced at about 62,000 miles. I'm am running a little heavier than most people. My work truck is a 2001 8.1 3500 cab & chassis weighing in about 11,200lbs? The dealer replaced both sides as a precautionary. They said it was due to the weight I'm carring around all the time. Didn't leak into the e-brakes. This just looks like a warranty item. Good luck.http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif

Dave Ski
11-13-2004, 10:44 AM
Should be a warranty fix, depending on your miles. Several here have had axle seal leaks, inicluding me, on all year model Dmax trucks and even a few older ones reported that have the full floating axle. Doesn't seem to matter if you haul heavy or not. It's not a hard job to do-it-yourself if you are out of warranty, and a search will show you a few posts on exactly how to do it. Seals cost $20. They were a little scarce around here, dealers said they don't sell many of them - but I ain't believeng that. It took me a little longer than most 'cause I was trying to replace the bearings at the same time and couldn't get the snap ring out to release the outer bearing. My opinion, don't replace the bearings - mine looked perfect at 87000 miles and I have 2" wheel spacers (which everyone will tell you Kills rear wheel bearings - not true!) Now that I know what's involved, I could do one in the driveway in about an hour - and have all the tools put back up. Brake Kleen or similar chemical will remove any trace of lube from the e-brake shoes and disc/pads. No need to replace them.


Common problem, easy fix, no long term solution, no way to protect the pads/shoes, many theories on why they fail - kinda like injectors ;-)


Have fun!

modified
11-15-2004, 08:06 AM
Dave Ski:


You quoted : "I have 2" wheel spacers (which everyone will tell you Kills rear wheel bearings - not true!)"


I started the topic below, questioning the use of wheel spacers. Do you have anything else to add? If so please reply at:


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17739&a (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17739&TPN=1) mp;TPN=1


Thanks for any info.

Dave Ski
11-15-2004, 12:14 PM
Dave Ski:


You quoted : "I have 2" wheel spacers (which everyone will tell you Kills rear wheel bearings - not true!)"


I started the topic below, questioning the use of wheel spacers. Do you have anything else to add? If so please reply at:


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17739&a (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17739&TPN=1) mp;a mp;TPN=1


Thanks for any info.











Already done!


To the other comment about using a wheel with more offset, that will still put the center of the tire, and therefore it's leverage, 2" outboard, same effect as the spacers. You then lose the ability to rotate tires front to rear.


There is no additional load on the studs - spacers this thick bolt to the stock hub with existing studs and have their own studs to mount the wheel. You may be thinking of the spacerslike a really thick washer and need to use longer studs - not true.


As far as the seal leaking, I think it may be more due to the slop in the wheel bearings allowing the hub to wiggle on the spindle just a little. Can't make them too tight or the bearings may overheat. Rubber seals get hard over time and temperature, not as flexible.