Hey Gang,


Cold start/rough running fixed by replacing 4 glow plugs (one was hell to get out) and new batterys (John Deere strongbox) hope they are ok they work well in tractors thanks gang for the help!


I just made the quarter million mile mark http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif


I know this is 6.5 forum but I can buy a 88-89 ish 6.2 ext cab 4X4 3/4 ton new ip new tires for $650.00 but it will not start. It tries to start but wont quite bust off. Present owner wont let me hit it with ether. has not started after ip replacement. what am i getting into here? I have driven the truck many times to haul hay kinda weak in the power dept but i suspect they are all that way w/o turbo. Nice looking truck and would give me another 4X4 to stop tearing up my 96. truck has 86,000 orig miles.


Thanks,


JustinEdited by: justin25taylor

Justin,


Is that the m1008 with 4.58 gears and detroit lockers? dana 60F upfront? There's only two things that will keep a diesel from starting. Lack of compression and lack of adaquite fuel delivery. I have an extra turbo housing and turbo sideexhaust manifold. I can help you get it started if you like?

If you can't/don't buy it tell me where it is I might be interested.


To start I have used compressed air blown into fuel tank while using a rag and my hand to seal the neck. This pressurizing forces fuel thru the lift pump and into the IP. Oh course I use a 30 psi pressure limiting device and have someone else crank it at the same time helps to. If you are getting fuel to IP. Double check everything involved in the install again. also before using starting fluid discconnect the glow plug relay so they don't cycle, causes a nasty intake fire when glow plugs heat up with ether present, trust me on that one, and just a very small shot, too much is way bad. Also make sure glow plugs are working right before trying the ether trick. ether is way bad to use all time, just remember that.

Thanks i'll try to bleed air then try to start it

When a diesel doesn't want to start it helps to jump the battery to keep the crank speed up. You could look at the exhaust while cranking and if there's no cloud of fuel coming out, you know it's fuel delivery.

I've heard you can use WD40 as starting fluid too, less explosive.


I don't follow the idea of pressurizing the tank. If you apply pressure to the fuel tank, you'll be pressurizing the return line too. How is that going to move fuel anywhere, unless you have a leak somewhere in the fuel system? Maybe I'm just missing the point somewhere.

I don't follow the idea of pressurizing the tank. If you apply pressure to the fuel tank, you'll be pressurizing the return line too. How is that going to move fuel anywhere, unless you have a leak somewhere in the fuel system? Maybe I'm just missing the point somewhere.





By putting pressure in the tank it acts just like the hydraulic system on the Aircraft I work on, it provides a positive head pressure to help move the fuel and help it take the place of the air in the lines, fuel filter housing, or IP. I used this on my 6.2's for years when I changed the IP's on them. Worked better than abusing the starter and batteries cranking for 15-20 minutes.

Well I got it started. I used ether to bust it off. I guess i'm gonna buy it. It runs good now. The owner is looking for the title now He can't find it after 12 years. sounds like me. Thanks for the help I can always count on Y'all.


My Best,


Justin