Got a mile away from home then all of a sudden truck dies and steering wheel locks up. Wouldn't start for a while, then finally did and got about 10 feet and died again. Waited a while, while my brother went to go get another truck to tow it with then when he came back we figured we'd try to start it again and it did and made back home barely. What could the problem be?

Almost anything. FSD, IP, bad lines, clogged tank, anything really.

any idea on what I should check first, my dad just told me i probably need a new fuel filter and water separator filter..

As stated could be anything, go through the checklist and post results.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42248

batteries are fine, just put in a new air filter, when I got it started it blew out a bunch of smoke, engine shook real bad when trying to start, very hard time starting, FSD i think looks fine..that good enough info, or more?

Just because the FSD looks fine, doesn't mean it is. It's an electronic devise. You can not tell just by looking if it lost the magic smoke or not. Post your results from the diagnostic checklist.

Get the Diagnostic Checkist (it's the 4th 'sticky' at the top of the forum), copy it into your reply to us, and answer the questions it asks...

There are about a million examples of people using this checklist around here.

And by the way, having an FSD cooler means nothing. How the FSD looks means nothing. After the amount of information around here about getting the PMD outta the engine compartment, that's not even a question anymore.

Do the checklist.

1. Does the engine Turn over?
1a. Does the engine start? -- barely
1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & duration lit. yes
1c. Ambient Condition (temperature outside) around 80 F
1d. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer). dont know
1e. Are you experiencing stalling? yes
1f. If Stalling, describe (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump etc) idk
1g. If Stalling, do you notice loss of dash or instruments? no
-note if experiencing stalling,you must indicate PMD location in #24.
1.1Lift pump test (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39350)- describe results
2.Service Engine Light - on/off/intermittent
3.Model year 1995
3a. Odometer reading
3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced (example Injection pump)
3c. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......)
4. Have you scanned for engine codes? (varies by pre/post 96) yes/no
5. List exact results on engine codes:
6.Air Filter condition (visual check) new
7.Fuel filter condition (freshly changed or condition unknown) just changed today
8.Condition of Battery terminal connections (removed, cleaned and tightened) good
8A.Known condition and age of the batteries. not sure
8B.Are batteries of differing age or are they a matched set? matched
8C.Condition of Major Grounds (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157085). (same drill as batt - removed, cleaned, retightened)
9.Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Yes/no
10.Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes/no
11.Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts?
12.Have you used the block heater, and does this effect engine starting?(only try for starting problems)
13.During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/no yes
14.Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? after it died, it was smoking bad after i barely got it to start again
15.Turbo check out (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39368)- pass/fail
16.Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code) F
17.Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD. 3500
18.Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-diesel, #2 Diesel, #1Diesel, SVO/WVO, other
18a. If running a VO setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade, or packaged system)
19.Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list. just premium diesel fuel
20.Please indicate geographic region you are in: (example: Texas or Canada) Indiana
21.Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? no
22.Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better. BD power chip, 4 in exhaust, FSD Cooler
23.Upon unscrewing the fuel cap (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42338), do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? yes/no
24.Location of PMD/FSD (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39436)? On the pump/remoted over intake/remoted out of engine bay (please specify specifically)
25.Are ALL glow plugs in proper working order as per this thread (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39182)? yes

OK, young fella. Let's see here... you need to come up with a bit more info for us, but let me see what I can guess on these... correct me if I'm wrong...

1. Does the engine Turn over? I'm assuming yes... what we don't know is how well it turns over. Does it appear to crank as good as before?
1.1 Lift pump test - describe results Did you do this test? We need to know if your lift pump supplies fuel when the key is on. If it doesn't pump fuel from the tank to your IP, then that's a problem. If you need help on testing this, please ask.
3a. Odometer reading Tells us if your engine is getting worn... there is no reason to suspect lots of components until they are getting pretty old. It would be helpful, for instance, if you knew how many miles were on your IP
3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced (example Injection pump) See what I mean?
3c. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......) Don't worry about this one... you have a DS4
4. Have you scanned for engine codes? (varies by pre/post 96) yes/no Now this is important. Whenever there is a non-normal engine event, your computer sensors may have reported a problem. If so, your PCM will have stored a diagnostic code for this event. You have a 1995, which is an OBD-I computer; that means you can read your codes using a paper clip and a bit of patience. Do you know how to read your codes with a paper clip? If not, ask.
5. List exact results on engine codes: (these codes can tell us exactly what is wrong ... no guessing).
7.Fuel filter condition (freshly changed or condition unknown) just changed today See, this is an important piece of information. Did you change it AFTER your engine went wierd, or BEFORE?? If you changed it just before, and then your engine crapped out, that should tell you something. Don't be thinking it can't have been anything you did, either... all the rest of us have made mistakes, you just might also.
8.Condition of Battery terminal connections (removed, cleaned and tightened) good Did you remove, clean, and tighten, or just inspect? My truck died and refused to start one afternoon in Las Vegas. I looked at my connections, they looked fine. I worked on everything else in the hot sun all afternoon before I got smart enough to take the battery terminals apart... and found my problem. You can't tell from the outside... spend a little time and do it right.
8C.Condition of Major Grounds. (same drill as batt - removed, cleaned, retightened) I'm not seeing an answer here... see #8 (above) for rationale
13.During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/no yes
OK, what do you mean by this? Do you ALWAYS see excessive black smoke, or just today? Before or after it died?
14.Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? after it died, it was smoking bad after i barely got it to start again
24.Location of PMD/FSD? On the pump/remoted over intake/remoted out of engine bay (please specify specifically) This one is important. Is your FSD cooler inside the engine compartment? How long has it been there? Has your truck stalled before, or have you suddenly 'lost' your cruise control, or has your check-engine light come on while you're driving? There is no test for a bad PMD other than replacing it, which is expensive. What we usually try to do is test all the obvious stuff first, then replace anything cheap that might cause the issue, before we move to the expensive stuff. Sometimes, you can find a 'known good' PMD to try yours out with. If you lived up here, I'd lend you mine, for instance.

So, how did I do? Are there other things that you want to add to our list, or did I guess anything wrong?

Answer the questions I had (in this section) and we'll try to figure out what's up.

Jim

1. Does the engine Turn over? I'm assuming yes... what we don't know is how well it turns over. Does it appear to crank as good as before? --- no
1.1 Lift pump test - describe results Did you do this test? We need to know if your lift pump supplies fuel when the key is on. If it doesn't pump fuel from the tank to your IP, then that's a problem. If you need help on testing this, please ask. --- need help
3a. Odometer reading Tells us if your engine is getting worn... there is no reason to suspect lots of components until they are getting pretty old. It would be helpful, for instance, if you knew how many miles were on your IP - I believe my truck had a new engine put in at around 100,000 miles and i have 135, 000 now. The truck was wrecked then rebuilt
3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced (example Injection pump) See what I mean?
3c. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......) Don't worry about this one... you have a DS4
4. Have you scanned for engine codes? (varies by pre/post 96) yes/no Now this is important. Whenever there is a non-normal engine event, your computer sensors may have reported a problem. If so, your PCM will have stored a diagnostic code for this event. You have a 1995, which is an OBD-I computer; that means you can read your codes using a paper clip and a bit of patience. Do you know how to read your codes with a paper clip? If not, ask. --- need help
5. List exact results on engine codes: (these codes can tell us exactly what is wrong ... no guessing).
7.Fuel filter condition (freshly changed or condition unknown) just changed today See, this is an important piece of information. Did you change it AFTER your engine went wierd, or BEFORE?? If you changed it just before, and then your engine crapped out, that should tell you something. Don't be thinking it can't have been anything you did, either... all the rest of us have made mistakes, you just might also. --- changed fuel filter after truck died

8.Condition of Battery terminal connections (removed, cleaned and tightened) good Did you remove, clean, and tighten, or just inspect? My truck died and refused to start one afternoon in Las Vegas. I looked at my connections, they looked fine. I worked on everything else in the hot sun all afternoon before I got smart enough to take the battery terminals apart... and found my problem. You can't tell from the outside... spend a little time and do it right. --- I just observed it, I doubt it's the battery but i'll check..
8C.Condition of Major Grounds. (same drill as batt - removed, cleaned, retightened) I'm not seeing an answer here... see #8 (above) for rationale
13.During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/no yes
OK, what do you mean by this? Do you ALWAYS see excessive black smoke, or just today? Before or after it died? --- I used to a lot til I changed my air filter then had hardly any. Then after truck died and was restarted was when it was smoking heavily.
14.Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? after it died, it was smoking bad after i barely got it to start again
24.Location of PMD/FSD? On the pump/remoted over intake/remoted out of engine bay (please specify specifically) This one is important. Is your FSD cooler inside the engine compartment? How long has it been there? ---yes and has been there since i had the truck, since last year about this time

Has your truck stalled before, or have you suddenly 'lost' your cruise control, or has your check-engine light come on while you're driving? --- no

There is no test for a bad PMD other than replacing it, which is expensive. What we usually try to do is test all the obvious stuff first, then replace anything cheap that might cause the issue, before we move to the expensive stuff. Sometimes, you can find a 'known good' PMD to try yours out with. If you lived up here, I'd lend you mine, for instance.



Also, my truck had no problems until I took the computer out to find my eprom. Heath walked me through it so I dont think I done anything wrong, everything is still connected..

Lift pump test is easy. On the front of your engine on the left side of the fan there is a "T" w/ a rubber 1/4" tube in and out. The one coming out will be between 12 & 18" going no where It is not connected to anything. W/ your engine on put the open end of the tube into an empty container. Turn the "T" Valve and if fuel comes out your lift pump and OPS (Oil Pressure Switch) are good. BTW the T is on the motor side of the fan.

OK, let's get at some of these...

1 - you had a failure event yesterday, I see. This is probably related. That tells us some more.

2- let's check for stored event codes...

a) to read codes - follow the START of the procedure linked to below... with your key turned OFF, put a metal paperclip into A and B (to jumper them together). Then turn your key to ON (don't try to start it, just turn it to ON) and watch the SES (service Engine Soon) light... it will blink, like morse code. blink-blink - pause - blink-blink-blink - (long pause) - means code 23. Each code will repeat 3 times. Write each code down as they come up.

When it's done, it will blink '12' three times to tell you it's done. Shut your ke off, then follow procedure b) (below) to clear the codes.

b) to clear codes - http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1380656&postcount=4

Shut the truck off and go back inside to find out what they mean... post them up here for us.

I'll get to the rest of the stuff then.

Jim

Lift pump test is easy. On the front of your engine on the left side of the fan there is a "T" w/ a rubber 1/4" tube in and out. The one coming out will be between 12 & 18" going no where It is not connected to anything. W/ your engine on put the open end of the tube into an empty container. Turn the "T" Valve and if fuel comes out your lift pump and OPS (Oil Pressure Switch) are good. BTW the T is on the motor side of the fan.

No offense, but you gotta be able to start it first, before this procedure tells us anything definitive, Rodd.

6.5ChevYTurbO - Get us the codes before we move to lift pump and OPS tests, OK? Then we'll do Rodd's test.

yeah, I'll do that tomorrow but as my truck was dieing I heard some clunking or something grinding, what could that have been?

Anything. Crank, harmonic balancer. accessory drive pulley, flex plate, differential (s), brakes, bearings, radio, wipers, the dodge 3 blocks away...

You get the point.

The Dodge three blocks away must've been your buddy's new V-10?

It has more cyliders, so it's noisier.

I figured you'd never hear a Dodge fall apart over the sound of a 6BT.

Oh man.. that made me laugh out loud!

A...the dodge 3 blocks away...

Heya, 95ChevYTurbO ... you got some codes for us, yet??

Wake up, young fella! We're burnin' daylight here!

:)

I'll do it in a little bit, but I tried driving it again but it'll just start go 50 feet and die. I let it idle for like 20 min. When I changed my fuel filter yesterday the fuel seemed really clear, so I was told that it may just have too much water in the fuel, so I think that's most likely the problem..so as soon as I get that fixed, and it still doesnt work I'll post some codes..

I don't suppose your 'water in fuel' light came on, or anything sort of obvious like that?

I never did do the code check thing mainly because I couldnt find a paper clip but I tried firing it up again and looking under the hood and noticed a "Check Gages" light when I started it.

When you turn the key to the run position, do you all the "normal" lights like SES, WTS?
Did you see the "water in fuel" light flash at all, maybe it's burnt out.

You don't NEED a paperclip...any chunk of conductor will work (staple, piece of wire, jifaire's retainer, etc.)...

Well I DONT have any metal conductors..that I could find.. But I found out that I need a new PMD isolator..it's gonna cost about $600 so, yeah, it's gay as balls

LOL...

Good luck bud

piece of wire (another name for conductor) paperclip or similar piece of bendable small dimeter metal, is all that is required you just need to jumper between the 2 pins and count the number of blinks of check engine to pull codes.

Well I DONT have any metal conductors..that I could find.. But I found out that I need a new PMD isolator..it's gonna cost about $600 so, yeah, it's gay as balls


Really? And what, pray tell, was it that convinced you that you need a new PMD isolator?

Or are you guessing that it might be a bad PMD isolator?

Listen up, young fella... spending $600 on something that doesn't solve the problem... now THAT'S as gay as balls.

We work on evidence around here. If you try to fix problems by randomly replacing parts, I guarantee that eventually, you'll fix the problem. However, the last figure I saw for the cost of building a truck out of aftermarket replacement parts was something like $90,000.

Lots of people have fixed things by the simple expedient of 'getting lucky' and 'guessing' the right part from limited evidence... and lots haven't.

So what's it gonna be, huh? Do you feel lucky?

Really? And what, pray tell, was it that convinced you that you need a new PMD isolator?

Or are you guessing that it might be a bad PMD isolator?

Listen up, young fella... spending $600 on something that doesn't solve the problem... now THAT'S as gay as balls.

We work on evidence around here. If you try to fix problems by randomly replacing parts, I guarantee that eventually, you'll fix the problem. However, the last figure I saw for the cost of building a truck out of aftermarket replacement parts was something like $90,000.

Lots of people have fixed things by the simple expedient of 'getting lucky' and 'guessing' the right part from limited evidence... and lots haven't.

So what's it gonna be, huh? Do you feel lucky?

Listen to him. I learned the hard way what he's sayin. We've done I don't know how many different replacements, including a PMD, didn't solve the problem. I thought, well, every thing I found in search points to the PMD, no reason to waste everyone's time going through the diagnostic checklist, and asking here. Was I ever wrong. It was a hard learned lesson, that has made me a little wiser for a big mistake. Trust me, it's a lot cheaper to learn wisdom second hand instead of being bull-headed, and learning it on your own, and making mistakes. Some day, I'll figure that out. :D

No you guys, I took my truck to a diesel performance shop which has free diagnostics and they told me what I needed, ok? I did not just guess, I wouldn't just guess on something if it costs that much, I'd find out what it definitely was, ok jifaire?..big fella

Watch the attitude bud....you haven't been here that long...

there's no attitude

No problem, guys.

95ChevYTurbO... there is no diagnostic test for a bad PMD. Period.

The only way to tell if it really IS the issue is by replacing it with a known good one. That's why I was after you to do the checklist adn pull your Diagnostic Trouble Codes... if it IS something else, we can usually find THAT.

If we can't find anything else, it's worth changing the PMD.

If you recall, back in post #5, you said your PMD 'looked' okay, and we asked questions about its location after that. I also explained that there was no test for PMD.

You also told us it was dead in your driveway, and worried about some "clunking or something grinding, what could that have been?".

You told us it would go 50 feet then die. Then you thought it had water in the fuel.

Then, rather than pull the codes, you took it to a diesel performance shop (I assume you towed it there) and they replaced the PMD with a known good one to test it, right?

I'll refrain from calling you anything you might interpret as patronizing, because that was not my intent... my intent was to save you some $ and help you learn to fix your truck on your own.

I hope it really is the PMD; it sucks to replace an expensive part and then find out it wasn't the problem.

Hope it works out for you.

Jim

let me just tell you this, I towed my truck to a diesel performance shop, I told them exactly what I told you guys and to figure out what was wrong, they had it all day and then later called back, I did not take the call but I was told my PMD was shot, so I kinda believe them...but that's what happened..and I do appreciate your help

No prob. Are they replacing the PMD, or are you ordering a Heath PMD Isolator? (curious)

they're replacing it, I wonder if I could suggest to order one from heath..

Only if you like the idea of a 7-yr warranty compared to whatever they offer (likely 3 months-1 yr).

And make sure it's mounted OUT of the engine bay ... that's why THIS one died.

If all they're doing is changing the PMD on your existing PMD cooler, then you're paying about $300 too much.

It's your money... these are only suggestions.

hmm, lets say they did put it on my engine, how long would it last?

Not very.

Ask for the old one back, give it the sniff test does it smell like burnt electronics?

No way to tell... 6 months, a year... forever?

In the mid-90's, GM kept replacing the entire Injection Pump assembly (at $2-3000) because they had no way of diagnosing bad PMDs. That's what gave this motor such a bad rap.

When they finally figured out the only thing wrong was the PMDs, not the IPs, they started just changing them... and putting them back in the same place, and then changing them a year later, and so on...

Lots of vendors say that their underhood PMD coolers 'solve' the problem for good. None of them warranty their PMDs for more than 1 year, max.

That should tell you something, even without hearing about all the ones that have crapped out.

Heath has a 7-yr replacement warranty. Nobody here has ever had one crap out.

That should tell you something, too.

Heath also charges $549. You change it yourself. Takes 15 minutes.

If you just want to buy a PMD, you can get one (brand-new) for $315.

if I call tomorrow and tell them to relocate it, where should I have it put at?

Ask for the old one back, give it the sniff test does it smell like burnt electronics?

No way ... did yours really smell?

Mine didn't. It just didn't work.

i dont know

In the bumper holes, or on the splash guard, like the Heath FSD isolator.

Smelt a bit not really smelly.
He should get the old part anyway, yes no?

if I call tomorrow and tell them to relocate it, where should I have it put at?

If they're charging you $600 for it, you should figure out what the warranty is before you do anything. For $600, you should get it put anywhere you want.

You said you had a FSD cooler under the hood. If they're just putting a $300 PMD on it, then you can buy an extension cable for about $90 and move it yourself.

Myself, I'd mount it in the bumper nostril if they're gonna put it on your FSD cooler.

Of course, by tomorrow it may already be installed, and this discussion is merely academic.

In the bumper holes, or on the splash guard, like the Heath FSD isolator.

how would it help if it's on those? why's it good to have it on those?

Smelt a bit not really smelly.
He should get the old part anyway, yes no?

Yep... if he really has a PMD mounted on the FSD cooler under the hood, he probably has the dead one there, and likely another dead one on the IP that we could have used to test with, so he now has 2 dead ones.

Maybe one of them smells.

Yep... if he really has a PMD mounted on the FSD cooler under the hood, he probably has the dead one there, and likely another dead one on the IP that we could have used to test with, so he now has 2 dead ones.

Maybe one of them smells.


huh? you lost me...i should get my pmd back?

how would it help if it's on those? why's it good to have it on those?

Out of the engine bay and good airflow.

huh? you lost me...i should get my pmd back?

Any time you gets parts replaced, the dealer should offer you the old parts, in case you want to check them over yourself. It's las up here.

You don't have to take them... but they should offer them to you.

Actually, you'll get one of them, anyway; if they install your $600 PMD right on your existing heat sink, you'll still have the one on the injection pump.

If they install it on the injection pump, you'll still have the one on teh heat sink.

Maybe you can sell the heat sink on ebay or something.

Is PMD going to be new, or new to you; many out in the world have just been cleaned up used ones, $600 for a PMD swap man that is very steep, you can get a complete replacement IP swap for that kind of coin.

Is it $600 because of the labor involved to relocate it to the factory location, don't do that.

Get a detailed list of what diagnostics they performed to determine the driver is bad, depending on what they did; pay them something for their diagnostic time and replace the driver yourself with a Heath driver and be done with it for next 7 years.

Although at this point we still are no further along in determining what your real problem is, we are gussing a bad driver, Heath replacement is still a good idea sort of pre-emptive maintenance, but what if driver isn't your issue

And? Survey says?

How is the truck?

i got it back today, it runs a hell of a lot better..although, the pmd was replaced on the engine, and i never got the old one back. but i think it'll last a while because the old one did..

It ain't gonna as last long under the hood, longer if it were out of the engine bay!

Any money spent on in-engine bay PMD's might as well be put into a fund to discover the Earth is a sphere. Either way, it's already a proven point, and will only provide temporary satisfaction. Sorry to hear of your bad luck.

Not over yet. Did they mount the new one on the Injection pump or on the FSD Cooler?

i think they might have done both

(reason I'm askin', 95ChevYTurbO, is that if they mounted it on the FSD cooler, you should get it out of the engine bay and under the bumper STAT, before it starts to get baked.)

You can do this either by making or buying an extension cable. You also need to make sure the new FSD has heat-transfer pad or compount, and that it's tightened down to the cooler properly.

If it's mounted on the Injection pump, then you just drive it like ya stole it; when it goes, it goes and there's nothing you can do about that.

I can vouch for getting it out of the engine bay. I had the FSD cooler on the intake. Now I have possibly two bad PMD's one on the pump and one on the cooler.

There a MANY people who have had good luck with PMDs mounted on the side of the IP. Keep a good lift pump in the truck to ensure proper flow of fuel thru the IP, and the PMD can live a reasonably long life in that location.

^^ true, mine lasted there for about 9 years.

There a MANY people who have had good luck with PMDs mounted on the side of the IP. Keep a good lift pump in the truck to ensure proper flow of fuel thru the IP, and the PMD can live a reasonably long life in that location.

True enough. But still, when it goes, it goes - there are also MANY people who have had no luck with PMDs mounted there... enough that a market has grown around replacing PMDs and relocating them outside the engine bay.

Not to doom and gloom this, but if the side of the IP was a great spot, the 6.5 wouldn't have such a bad rep as a pump-eater.

True enough. But still, when it goes, it goes - there are also MANY people who have had no luck with PMDs mounted there... enough that a market has grown around replacing PMDs and relocating them outside the engine bay.

Not to doom and gloom this, but if the side of the IP was a great spot, the 6.5 wouldn't have such a bad rep as a pump-eater.

Good point. However, it is possible that a portion of the pump-eater reputation was earned because of people running the trucks with weak lift pumps. Symptoms of a weak lift pump are not as noticeable as those of a dead lift pump, and in my experience weak lift pumps can run a long time before finally dying.

There a MANY people who have had good luck with PMDs mounted on the side of the IP. Keep a good lift pump in the truck to ensure proper flow of fuel thru the IP, and the PMD can live a reasonably long life in that location.


Yeah, I was one of those people, my first PMD went forever. My second, well, not so much.

yeah, its on the engine bay, but I know nothing about relocating it. is it hard at all?

yeah, its on the engine bay, but I know nothing about relocating it. is it hard at all?

Easier than replacing a fuel filter, if it's on the FSD cooler. Hehehehe.

your new PMD back on the IP then atleast take the plastic IP cover and chuck it. That will help alot. I really got post pics of where I mounted mine. I used the Heath Kit but mounted it differently. I'll take and post some. This I will say. The kit I bought from Heath worked fine and they are good to deal with but for the price I think I would make my own next time. However you do get a 7 yr warranty as mentioned which is a good deal compared to everyone else. I will also say 95 that unless you do some homework and learn how to repair this truck yourself you will spend alot of money needlessly. All the info you need is right here on the site. I have 15 years plus diesel experience and I learned things here. Just a little patience is all you need.

so the FSD mounted on the engine is that just a place to mount it, does it really matter where you mount? its just bad if you put it on the engine because all the heat that comes off of it fries it? is that right? and could i just unscrew it off of my engine and mount it anywhere I want, just if the cord is long enough?

PLEASE READ (opps had the caps lock on)

remember FAQ is your friend

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39436

Every question you asked above has been answered in this thread, KN did an excellent job of explaining it

ok, so I just unscrew it off my engine and mount it some place that would be cooler? i'll do that ASAP

LOL. nuff said

where's another good place to mount the FSD cooler on besides the bumper?

It can be mounted anywhere (if the cord is long enough) Most common spot is the skid plate, or in bumper hole, I mounted one above the tranny cooler behind the grill. any where cept under da hood

Those hood scoops functional? Hmmmm? Cool air there?

nope, they're stick ons.....but I just heard that if you have it on the bumper that it would probably get a lot of snow and mud on it..

nope, they're stick ons.....but I just heard that if you have it on the bumper that it would probably get a lot of snow and mud on it..

You heard that, huh? From one of us?

Well Yep, it might. Thousands of us with Heath PMD Isolators mounted under the bumper, or DIY kits mounted in the nostrils, lose a lot of sleep over that possibility.

Of course, the fact that getting snow, rain, and mud on them still hasn't resulted in a single PMD failure helps us get over it.

Here's the deal: if you read it in the FAQs, if you hear it from multiple sources here in open discussion, when you see it in lots of our signatures, then it's probably true. We self-police pretty good around here - if one of us starts talking speculation like it might be fact, or handing out bad information, others will jump right in and correct the information.

When you ask a question in an open thread, and get the same answer from a bunch of different people, you can either choose to accept it or not, but it probably won't change, even if you ask the same question again.

However, going to a different mechanic, one who doesn't understand that the 6.5TD is NOT a Cummins, Powerstroke, or Duramax, one who doesn't OWN a 6.5TD, might get you the different answer you're looking for.

It'll be wrong, but you'll have your answer.

Bottom line: (I'm assuming that your new PMD is mounted on the FSD Cooler bolted to your intake manifold, and not on the Injection Pump... if it's on the Injection pump, just leave it alone, 'cause you don't have the tools/expertise to move it.)

1] figure out where to mount it. Mine is bolted under the bumper, lots of others are mounted behind the bumper in the nostrils, others are mounted in the grille. Make a cardboard mock-up of the FSD Cooler and find a place where it will fit and catch some air to stay cool.

2] figure out how much the PMD wiring harness will have to be extended to reach that spot. Leave extra room to get around things, and be tied up neatly.

3] Unplug the FSD Cooler/PMD and mount it in the new location to make sure it fits the way you want and has airflow all around to move heat.

4] using some good 18-ga wire, cut the harness ONE WIRE AT A TIME and solder in enough extra wire to extend the harness. Shrink-wrap or liquid-tape all connections as you go. (Don't use electrical tape: it will come apart, eventually)

Cut the connections at different lengths so they're not all in the same spot. ie:

----\\-------------------
-------\\---------------
----------\\------------
-------------\\---------
----------------\\------

5] put a wire loom (one of those plastic hoses that's split on one side) around the whole thing, run your wiring, plug it into the FSD Cooler/PMD, and then use zip-ties to tidy up the harness and get it out of the way.

Celebrate.

ok, I gotta wait atleast a week or two because I'm ordering the 72" extension harness from Kennedy Diesel..but yeah I guess your right, no one has complained about 'em on the bumper so I might just put it on there