I am looking at a 98 3/4 ton 6.5 auto 4x4


What things should i be looking for to go wrong with it.


It has 255000 km's on it.


thanks for the info

You should check everything. How dirty is the engine? how much does it smoke(blow-by) or use oil. lift the frontend and whiggle the wheel up down left right and check for a worn front end. How old are the IP,and injectors? Original tranny?Edited by: quantum mechanic

I'm not worried about the front end i am worried about the engine and tranny i want a 5 spd manual but am going to have to settle for a auto

Unless you're buying from an exceptional owner, with that many miles you're going to end up spending money on top of what you buy it for. But what you need to do is make sure nothing major is going to nail your pocket book. Check the things QM mentioned to eliminate the biggies.


IMO, the 4L80E auto tranny is arguably the best heavy duty auto tranny out there. But some guys just like to drive a stick.

150 ,000 miles Take a good look its getting up there.

I'd be careful--not too many people buy a DIESEL truck just to ride to work in. A diesel truck is generally put through he11 compared to a gas. Mine's a 1/2 ton, and I bought it with 190,000 miles on it. Shortly after, the rearend went out--EVERY gear in it had LARGE chips and breaks in it. $1300 later, It was back on the road, and only about 2 months after, the transfer case went out. Also, the bellhousing for the 4L80-E was cracked around every bolt hole-- Now, the front C-V axles are shot. These engines are extremely tough on the driveline, and, for those who are certain that it's because mine's only a 1/2 Ton, it the 1-ton rearend (14-bolt, 10.50")


To say the least, I could have bought a new gasser for what I now have in my OLD diesel truck

You really want to check and recheck for coolant consumption. Also, check for stalling and no start conditon. These motors have a tendancy to go through head gaskets, and their Injection Pump is a piece of junk.


I would be very suprised if at 150k mile it still has factory head gaskets. I just replaced mine, at 133k, and they were fel-pro, so they had already been replaced at least once by the PO.


Also, I can honestly tell you, that now my Burb is up and running I love it and wouldn't sell it. However, at the first sign of coolant loss or the IP going out, and I am going to dump this thing off on the first poor, unsuspecting sucker I can find. With that in mind, you may want to ask yourself, why is the current owner selling?

It is at a dealer

Make sure there's a good extended warrenty--and even then, I'd pop open the rear diff and inspect the gears/bearings/fluid. Definately check all ball joints/tie rod ends. Check the 4-wheel drive for any odd sounds/clicking to indicate wear on the CV shafts. As for the engine, i think it's worth $10 to have the oil tested for glycol (antifreeze) that may be seeping through the heads. Test all of the glow plugs using a multimeter. I think you test for continuity between the spade terminal on the plug and the block. Take it for a test drive, and take notice to any "surge." Shut it down after about 20-30 min. of running, and see if it starts back. Do this a couple of times. Mine occasionally wont, indicating that the Fuel Solenoid Driver is going-- As for the mechanical part of the engine, They often go over 250,000 miles if they are taken care of. It all depends on the history.

Also, I can honestly tell you, that now my Burb is up and running I love it and wouldn't sell it. However, at the first sign of coolant loss or the IP going out, and I am going to dump this thing off on the first poor, unsuspecting sucker I can find.


OK Remind me again where you live so I don't buy any burb's from those area's http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif