Guys, I just build a set of traction bars for my '05 CCSB. Prior to the traction bars, I could not even spin the wheels in gravel, grass, etc without violent wheel hop. With the traction bars I can spin the tires but get a hint of wheel hop. I would say the traction bars solve 80% of the problem. The wheel hop is not bad enough to stop me like it was without the bars, but is noticeable. I am wondering if this is similar to others with traction bars? Or do they have no hint of wheel hop. Also will I have a problem when hooking to the sled? One good thing is I only have stock power. I have Cognito braces, Crank it up tie rod sleeves and now tractoin bars. I am doing my first pull this weekend and figure with stock power, I will get my a$$ handed to me, but it will be fun anyway.

Thanks

The longer to bars the less hop u will have

the longer to bars the less hop u will have x2

Guys, I just build a set of traction bars for my '05 CCSB. Prior to the traction bars, I could not even spin the wheels in gravel, grass, etc without violent wheel hop. With the traction bars I can spin the tires but get a hint of wheel hop. I would say the traction bars solve 80% of the problem. The wheel hop is not bad enough to stop me like it was without the bars, but is noticeable. I am wondering if this is similar to others with traction bars? Or do they have no hint of wheel hop. Also will I have a problem when hooking to the sled? One good thing is I only have stock power. I have Cognito braces, Crank it up tie rod sleeves and now tractoin bars. I am doing my first pull this weekend and figure with stock power, I will get my a$$ handed to me, but it will be fun anyway.

Thanks


Where is the hook this weekend Chris??

Would anyone want to share pics of home-made traction bars to me (a noob new to sled pulling)

Right now my bars are 48" long. So sounds like they need to be longer. I kept them that length to try and no have anything handing down below the frame. They mount in the front where the frame slopes down from the bed section to the cab section. I was hoping to leave them on all the time, but maybe if they don't work, I will have to make a longer set for pulling.

So I gather that you guys with traction bars get zero wheel hop with the bars?

The pull is in Mendota IL at Hanks 4x4 Jamboree.

Also guys, can you explain how the length helps with the wheel hop? I could see if they hung down farther on the axle the bars would have more leverage, but I'm having trouble seeing how the length of the rods matter. I can see the length mattering as far as not interfering with the natural arc of the suspension. Any information would be great.

Thanks.

I have 60" cognito traction bars and have no wheel hop what so ever.

Also guys, can you explain how the length helps with the wheel hop? I could see if they hung down farther on the axle the bars would have more leverage, but I'm having trouble seeing how the length of the rods matter. I can see the length mattering as far as not interfering with the natural arc of the suspension. Any information would be great.

Thanks.

I agree. Dont see how longer would change if you get wrap or not. I can see lenght making a big difference in how it hooks up at the track.....but dont see how it will control hop?

How exactly are your bars made and attached? Please use specs on material too if you have it.

These bars are mainly to keep the axle from wrapping and causing hop. My bars are shorter than most and work just fine. Be careful making longer ones that bow and flex under a load defeating the whole purpose. If you watch some of these guys at pulls, you'll see what I mean.

Check out my garage for some almost helpful pics.

I can see lenght making a big difference in how it hooks up at the track.....but dont see how it will control hop?



I understand the physics behind what you're saying, but I still don't see much of a difference in how it hooks based on length. Possibly with a true ladder bar or 4-link, but not on a single bar setup like most of us run IMO.

These bars are mainly to keep the axle from wrapping and causing hop. My bars are shorter than most and work just fine. Be careful making longer ones that bow and flex under a load defeating the whole purpose. If you watch some of these guys at pulls, you'll see what I mean.

Check out my garage for some almost helpful pics.

Agree.....longer they are the more you worry about bending

I understand the physics behind what you're saying, but I still don't see much of a difference in how it hooks based on length. Possibly with a true ladder bar or 4-link, but not on a single bar setup like most of us run IMO.

I agree. At the level we are talking its probably splitting hairs. On a drag car lenght and orientation make a big deal......for us I am thinking its splitting hairs. But every little bit helps right? :D Dont hink you would see much difference.

I'm wondering if the little bit of wheel hop that I still have is from the shocks. My shocks are still the factory shocks as far as I know. The truck has 65k on it. Wonder if a set of Blistens would help the problem. I will also try clamping the springs and see if that helps. Here are some pics of my setup. The round bar is 1.5" OD with 7/32 wall. I used 3/4" Heim joints at each end. I chose to bolt an additional plate to the ubolts instead of welding to the stamped part of the ubolt retainer so I can remove to remake the part if necesssary later.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garageimage.php?do=full&p=37844


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garageimage.php?do=full&p=37846

I hope these bars work, if not I will try an rework something this winter. I also welded up a quick set of axle blocks to bolt in place to keep the back end from squatting.

Thanks

How is this hop condidtion? I assume its a pretty quick vibration is how it feels? Bars may be bending. The springs also can still twist up a bit, the front eye bushings are rubber and not solid. Means the rear can load and unload a wee bit. The traction bars help a ton but IMO still leave a lil movment left. Thats probably what your getting, still a lil axel wrap, all this stuff can still add up. Tires could be loading and unloading a wee bit as well.

Might try clamping your springs and retrying

I'm wondering if the little bit of wheel hop that I still have is from the shocks. My shocks are still the factory shocks as far as I know. The truck has 65k on it. Wonder if a set of Blistens would help the problem.

Bilsteins are too loose for sledpulling IMHO....try a set of Rancho 9000 or 9000XLs and crank 'em all the way up for maximum damping.

I'm wondering if the little bit of wheel hop that I still have is from the shocks. My shocks are still the factory shocks as far as I know. The truck has 65k on it. Wonder if a set of Blistens would help the problem. I will also try clamping the springs and see if that helps. Here are some pics of my setup. The round bar is 1.5" OD with 7/32 wall. I used 3/4" Heim joints at each end. I chose to bolt an additional plate to the ubolts instead of welding to the stamped part of the ubolt retainer so I can remove to remake the part if necesssary later.
I hope these bars work, if not I will try an rework something this winter. I also welded up a quick set of axle blocks to bolt in place to keep the back end from squatting.

Thanks

My first bars where 1.5 1/4wall DOM and I bent them. I highly reccomend at least 2" diameter. 2" x 3" rectangular tubing is even better.:)

My first bars where 1.5 1/4wall DOM and I bent them. I highly reccomend at least 2" diameter. 2" x 3" rectangular tubing is even better.:)

How long were the bars made out of 1.5" mat'l that bent? Since these bars are in compression, length would be a factor in the section vs length of the bars. Just wanted to get an idea so I can gauge if the section vs length of my bars is marginal. The dist. from eye to eye of my bars is about 48", so the bars are about 43" long. I know some posts I read, guys had 90" bars. I would image those would have to be sustantial to prevent buckling.

96" form center to center but I used cromoly to help but still bent.:mad:

96" form center to center but I used cromoly to help but still bent.:mad:

Don't forget, John has a CCLB (sled:D ).

I have Cal-tracs. They are short and light weight for drag racing.
I have never had any hint of wheel hop on a stickey track or at the sled pulls. I can only say that they work great for me. My truck leaves hard and 60's in the 1.6's. @7,000 lbs.

Here are my new trac bars

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a162/zebler/100_0423.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a162/zebler/100_0423.jpg)
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a162/zebler/100_0422.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a162/zebler/100_0422.jpg)
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a162/zebler/100_0420.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a162/zebler/100_0420.jpg)
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

i used pro comp bars with my springs clamped in the front, works great no wheel hop at all, in 2wd if i stand on it from a stop my truck will spin right through third up to about 60-65 mph and never even chatter. no hop while pulling either.

If your truck has a carrier bearing you might be feeling a flop or a buckle in the drive shaft causing a hop feel and to add yes clamp your springs and let the truck squat atleast 1 in to 2 in to load the springs that is where you get the bounce the springs during pulling try to wrap and loading them will stop alot of that i have made a 4 link setup on mine and it has never bounced hanging weight or not your bars are fine in length maybe a little light the heim joints wont take daily driving i use a torque rod setup off a semi trailer and then make it longer and on my ecsb it hits about the center of the rear ec doors the torque rods have a rubber bushing in them they work great the rubber takes most of the shock out rhall on here might have pictures on here so you can see them if not pm me and i'll send you some and if you are going to pull more you my want to go to a 4 link set up , no wrap no bounce no squat