Hello All!

I was formerly "msutiny" but for whatever reason I can no longer log in and it says my email address is no longer in the system. I have no clue WTF that is about.

So, I have my replacement IP and am going to start ripping off the old one (see previous threads - I have tried everything else - this is the only part left).

Any critical tips, tricks or advice?

I read something about having to "scribe" something but I can't find it now.

I tried searching but don't see any threads with a "how to" either.

Any assitance would be greatly appreciated!

msuman

(John)

pull intake, unplug harness, disconnect fuel lines, remove oil fill tube locate 3 bolts remove, remove 3 nuts holding pump housing, install new pump in reverse order. set timing, you can't so a hair to the driver side, take to shop to scan they won't be able to correctly, take to dealer they probably won't........... maybe you will get lucky in the last step.

You want the new IP to be installed at the same angle the old IP was set at, so scribe a mark from the IP to the housing it bolts to. When you get the old IP off, transcribe the mark from the old IP to the same place on the new IP. Install the new IP, rotate until the marks line up and you engine remains in time.

I pm'ed you a link to a site with detailed instructions.

I made the mistake of loosening the three bolts on the IP before removing the one's on the gear. By rotating the engine to get access to the gear bolts using the starter with the IP loose, the out of line IP gear jammed in the housing, shearing off the cam key.

This extends the time you will spend hugging your engine.

The safest way to rotate the engine to get access to the IP gear bolts is by hand. If you must use the starter, do not loosen the IP bolts first. Instead remove gear bolts first and do not rotate engine after the last bolt is loose. Still best to rotate by hand.

Thanks Guys!

Okay, got the intake off. Slight amount of oil residue in intake and top intake pipe to turbo. Is this normal? I assume so since I have read some blow by is normal - mine has nothing major - just some light residue.

On the IP - I scribed a line up the side of the triangle all the way down the face of where the IP bolts to. I didn't scribe it across the side of the IP and into the housing (see picture).

http://www.msu.edu/~lemansk5/ipscribe.jpg

Question: Wouldn't this get the same result as the entire line down the side of the IP housing would have to be in line?

I can mark it the other way too but it seems redundant.

Also, the gaskets are in very good shape - still soft. Would you resuse them?

msu

I wouldn't reuse any gaskets. mt rebuilt pump came with the gaskets

Mine came with the triangle gasket for the pump but not the intake gaskets - those are the ones I was contemplating reusing.

Also, added a picture of my pump and where I scribed it. Haven't removed it yet - will need to do that tomorrow since it got dark tonight and I do all the work in my drive way (I'm in the city).

thoughts on where I scribed versus what you guys have said?

MSUman which MSU;

one North of me in Hattiesburg or elsewhere North (which don't take too much I'm on the Gulf Coast)?

MSUman which MSU;

one North of me in Hattiesburg or elsewhere North (which don't take too much I'm on the Gulf Coast)?

LOL TD!

Which one gets me the best answer / help? :D :P

Also, my dad and I were talking.

For some reason the exhaust is about a 3 - 4" pipe all the way to the muffler but the back end of the muffler is about 2".

Do you think the pipe is to small to allow the engine to decompress (ie. to much back pressure in the exhaust?

MSU

MSUman which MSU;

one North of me in Hattiesburg or elsewhere North (which don't take too much I'm on the Gulf Coast)?

TD,

MSU = Michigan State University

LOL

LOL TD!

Which one gets me the best answer / help? :D :P

MSU Hattiesburg would have been best as that is about 90 minutes away, on your own now as far as up close & personal assisst, Michigan is a mite far piece for me to travel there, of course you are always welcome to come down & visit.

Also, my dad and I were talking.

For some reason the exhaust is about a 3 - 4" pipe all the way to the muffler but the back end of the muffler is about 2".

Do you think the pipe is to small to allow the engine to decompress (ie. to much back pressure in the exhaust?

MSU

Get a 4" kit from one of many fine vendors here, or if adept at welding & cost is a big concern check 4x4 shops or muffler shops that do upgrades to Ferds & other lesser vehicles, some of those come with 4" tubes from factory even some stainless, when they go up to 5" the removed tube is scrap to some, treasure to us.

3" is adequate, 3.5" would be minimium I'd go, a mandrel bent downpipe is a must, again available at many vendors that advertise here sell just a DP or include it in their complete kit.