Wondering what the syn and semi syn users thought.

I just like the taste better when I recycle it in my french-fry cooker.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

I personally need the added benefits that synthetic oil offers. At -40 my truck deserves all the help it can get.

Cold weather operation is why I run Schaffers

In the last poll Salesrep ran I gave some thoughts....
To expand on those thoughts:

I started using full synthetic many years ago (in the late '70s) when I lived in Minnesota. Cold weather engine start-ups and cold weather performance were my main reasons for paying the extra $$ for Amsoil. After moving further south I was using dino oil and frequent oil changes. This worked well and I saw no problems. Valvoline has been my dino oil of choice.

For my first new car I decided to return to synthetic. My practice at the time was to change oil at 3,000 miles. I ran the numbers to determine the break-even point (money-wise) for running longer drains on full synthetic. It came out to very close to 15,000 miles, and that is what I used for my drain interval with a filter change at 7,500 miles. I also installed & used the early Amsoil canister-style by-pass filter. That vehicle was an '88 Honda Civic, and at 136,000 miles it used about 1/2 quart of oil in the 15,000 mile drain interval. The inside of the engine was very clean; no sludge at all. I kept that car for 9 years.

I now live in Texas where triple-digit temperatures are the norm. Synthetic is again the solution to temperature issues. My discretionary (play) time is very limited, so I want to get the best protection with the least maintenance time - again synthetic oil is the solution. Diesel engines are much harder on oil than are gas engines, so to get past the 10,000 mile drain interval I'll have to install a by-pass filter and do a regular oil analysis. The Fumoto drain valve should make getting the oil sample quick & easy.

One more thing about synthetics: The consistent molecular structure of the oil should provide better lubrication properties. There should be less thermal breakdown, thus less sludge and/or evaporation. Synthetic oil handles the extreme situations much more gracefully than dino oil. For me, this provides peace of mind that I am willing to pay extra for. Diesel engines are certainly not cheap; using the best oil is cheap insurance.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif HBruns Well said.

Ditto HBruns

Ditto HBruns also

<CENTER><A name=fourteen>
<H3>Synthetic Oils</A></H3></CENTER>


Synthetic oils were originally developed for use in gas turbine engines. In most cases they are capable of maintaining their viscosity for longer periods of use and under much greater temperatures and pressures than petroleum products. Commons synthetics used for engine lubrication today are Polyalphaolefin (like Mobil 1) or Dibasic Organic Esters (like AMSOIL). They are fully compatible with conventional oils and can be mixed, providing their ratings match.


Probably the best situation is a blend of synthetics and mineral oils, such as Golden Spectro and AGIP Sint 2000. These products seem to offer the best of both worlds in protection and extended service life. They may cost considerably more than standard petroleum products, but they also can be used for much longer periods between oil changes without losing their protective capabilities.


Synthetics and synthetic blends offer a wider range of protection than standard petroleum products. However, it should be noted that this extended range of protection reaches into an area of temperatures and pressures virtually impossible to attain inside most engines and transmissions. In other words, if you use them, you are buying a sort of "overkill protection." It's certainly not going to hurt anything -- it's just unnecessary. That is, unless it makes you feel better knowing the extra protection is on board, in which case the added expense may be well justified.


As a basic rule of thumb, using the standard engine oil recommended by your vehicle's manufacturer and changing it as recommended will afford you all the protection you'll ever need. But if you feel better knowing you have more protection than you need or, if you like the extended service-life feature, there's certainly nothing wrong with using a premium grade synthetic blend lubricant.


Ok now if you're not running extended drains?????????


And if you're not running a flame under your pan????????


And your outdoor temps are not fridgid????????


Then this article may be of interest to you..........


The article also goes on to say that the thinner properties of synthetic oil also causes quicker and more complete drain backs resulting in dryer starts which is where the majority of engine wear results. Not to be taken wrong I'm not trying to shove this down anyone's throat. It's just a little something to think about. As shown above there are good reasons to run synthetics but if the reasons don't apply to your situation of temps and extended drains then you could be throwing away your dollars. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif Edited by: a bear

I guess abear falls into the camp of " I gonna fight for petroleum till I die"


HB "The consistent molecular structure of the oil should provide better lubrication properties. There should be less thermal breakdown, thus less sludge and/or evaporation. Synthetic oil handles the extreme situations much more gracefully than dino oil. For me, this provides peace of mind that I am willing to pay extra for. Diesel engines are certainly not cheap; using the best oil is cheap insurance."


I think this poll is indicative of why most individuals use premium grade oil.


I want to give my engine the best chance too perform. 70%. Along with that, I may likely get more convenience and it won't cost me that much more , maybe less.

Salesrep,


Yes, You better believe it I fall into that camp.


We're all adults here and very capable of making our own choices so dino is my choice. Maybe if I lived up North I would reconsider but I don't. You seem to have a problem with the fact that most here use regular oil. All I'm doing is simply providing facts from an unbiased soarce that may help someone in making an informed decision. Everyone here knows whats best for them in their application. Honestly, why do you have a problem with that?


Ever wonder why synthetic marketing groups compare syn to dino in a frying pan? Could it be that the dino wouldn't break down at normal operating temps. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gif

I use Schaeffer's 7000 Blend and the engine seems to run smoother than with stgraight dino. Edited by: Bill Gisse

The average working temperature in the engine (under 200 F) does not approach the breakdown limits of any motor oil we use, dino or synthetic. However, oil is also used as a coolant. The Dmax engine has nozzles that spray oil on the underside of the pistons, and oil is also commonly used to cool & lube the turbo. In these (and other) localized areas the oil temperature can easily rise beyond its functional limits and start to break down. Coking the turbo is a classic example.

Since synthetic oils are much less susceptible to thermal breakdown, they are sometimes required for high-temp applications, or where some part of the oiling system could see unusually high temperatures. The "dry" starts mentioned earlier would also be a situation where the superior lubricating properties of synthetic would shine - and I don't beleive synthetic would be the cause of dryer starts than regular oil. Synthetic is more thermally stable - it changes viscosity LESS than dino oil, so it would drain back slower that dino oil in a hot engine.

A 400 cubic inch engine (6.6 L) putting out 300HP and 500+ ft*lbs of torque in stock condition is no lightweight engine. Chip it and you can easily reach 400HP and 700 ft*lbs. This engine is now producing serious power and it must dissipate serious heat. Synthetic oil is what I’d trust. If I was using dino oil, then my oil change interval would be measured in weeks and hundreds of miles, not months and thousands of miles.

For a stock commuter vehicle or mild-use driving, then dino oil at standard drain intervals is appropriate.

Use it year round. Cold weather, plus, when I leave home it is at least 5 miles downhill whichever direction I go. Need better lubrication in those first few miles.