I put this page together because i've become a diesel fan here and these file sizes are too large for here. I've put up the 0 - 60 video (TDG's benefit), my exhaust video and a few pics. Maybe the 0 - 60 will ring a bell with someone if your watching the tach and not my abilities with the camera. Maybe it shifts fine, maybe it doesn't, i'll let you decide.


Anyways PM me with any info or post it here.


It would be to your benefit if your using hi-speed for the video's!


http://www.canadianrigger.com/chevy/chevy.htm

After I put another 400 miles on the engine I'll do another 0-60 run. I'm a crewcab 8600gvwr with 500 lbs of gear in the bed. I replaced the big vacuum hose coming off the vacpump and my boost is back up.

HOLY ****!!! 0-60 in 6.5 sec or so and the vid stops at 120mph!!!!! OMG!! Is that really a 6.5 or a 6.6dmax?





ps - im STILL picking my jaw up off the floor...whose truck is that and what have they done to it?Edited by: Bumpin' Yota

more like 0-60MPH in 13 seconds with a top speed of 80 MPH/


You do realize that the truck is canadian right....

oh, I didnt see the KMH on the outside though I thought it odd that the speedo went that high....


I was like "Holy God how do i get mine that fast?".....lol

Your truck is laying down @ 2600 rpm in third gear.


What other info do you have during run? Boost? IAT's?

Something is definitely not right, watching the tach shows the engine is pretty sluggish to pick up speed, and at one point, right after the 2-3 shift it stumbled a bit and lost speed. After reviewing the '4" exh.' clip again, I notice there's almost 0 black smoke, and a slight haze of whitish smoke. The lack of black smoke tells me the fuel quantity is a little lean, the light whitish haze is too light to be a faulty injector, more likely late timing, both conditions will give you a low power complaint. If you get access to a scanner, here's what you should do...


1. Note TDC offset and if its not within spec (-.2 to -1.9) adjust it to get it there.


2. Note CTIME at idle, and rev the engine and see what happens, if it dips towards the 1.9ms or higher, then we've found your white smoke/low power problem. Slow FSOL response is causing late timing and loss of fuel delivery.


3. Rev engine again, this time watching DES and ACT timing readouts and compare them to make sure the advance device in the pump is reacting properly to ECM commands.


4. Note Fuel Rate at idle, you want it to read around 7-9mms, indicating the pump is slightly on the hot side, a reading of 11 or higher would indicate the pump is a little weak and you should try the optic bump again to get it down a touch.


I wish I had a good excuse to head over to Alberta, I'd really like to see this anemic devil first hand, although the videos are quite insightful ;) I gotta get a vid cam.....

Too funny Yota, yeah that would be nice to lay down those numbers but as cowboy says, i'm Canadian eh!


Anyways that run was with no boost guage, stock boost at the time before the fooler was installed, no pyro either, also was pre-optic bump, numbers are still similiar though after the mods.


TDG that was the wifes foot on the accelerator and she was hardly punching it, when i punch it its black for just a second and then cleans up but i do believe that i'm seriously lacking fuel in the engine. I'm planning on taking of some time from work and getting some hi-pops installed and the timing adjusted then. Its stumbling at idle more often and giving me short runaway's when i rev it up, it also seems to be starting to miss some at idle, last time i had that happen the injectors were pooched on the 95 & the 94, i have 2 sets of pooched injectors here to prove it.


I didn't top out @ 80 Mph, just stopped accelerating there, it will make it to 100 Mph but just barely. (4:10's), my 95 will bury the needle and keep on going with the 2:73's and 35" rubber.


TDG, the Canadian beer here in Alberta is great, i'll buy!

I couldn't resist it.


I just grabbed the camera and had to try it. My truck doesn't like this batch of fuel I have so it is kind of slow. (it usually does a lot better) I just got new tires too and I will be checking the speedo next week as soon as my GPS gets here. I made 2 runs, one in each direction just incase the road was sloped. You can see it here:


http://www.rsixray.com/junk/1st.MPG


http://www.rsixray.com/junk/2nd.MPG

I just watched both of our videos several times and both do the same thing at about 55 mph. Does the TCC lockup on full throttle or is that transmission slip? I am talking about where the speed continues to rise and the tach drops a little and comes up slow.

I just saw another thing. You can't get over 3200 rpm. I bet that makes a big difference in the 0-60 times.

I would say yes, that's the tcc locking. It seems like you"re shift another half gear and the rpm drops 250 or so.

Very nice whatnot, if the video is real time it would appear your running about 9 seconds with less tire squeel and about 12 seconds with more rubber on the ground, is that an accurate assesment? I don't know what your weight is but mine is 7341 lbs the last time i weighed it.


I count 4 shifts on your run and 4 on mine up to 60, there's 1 more shift @ around 70 on mine as i'm sure you must have 1 more shift after that also? It would appear the 4th shift is going into lock-up. One thing i've noticed different between my 95 and the 2000 is the lock-up, on the 95 just moving the brake peddle about 1/2" down will knock it out of lock-up without applying the brakes, you may get a better time by doing that, the 2000 will only come out of lock-up by backing off on the throttle, brake peddle has no effect on it, is that normal? Was that something that was changed later?


I was going to make another run this morning but we got 4" of snow overnight and the hiways are glare ice right now, i'll try a run tonight on dry pavement with the boost guage in view.


Anyone have any idea's why i'm only getting to 3200 rpm?


Now if i could only lay rubber like that http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif


Very cool guy's! This seems to be useful as help in diagnosing problems i never thought of before.

That is strange that your tranny is shifting you so early, I'm sure mine will go to 34-3600 before shifts when your really pushing it. It has to be due to the '00 ECM programming.


Maybe swap pumps with your '95 and see if that has any effect :)

Or go for a reflash.

Swapping pumps for you would be an easy task, for me that would be another story, if hi-pops & new PCM don't do the trick then the pump and PMD will be next on the hit list. Is there any kind of markings on the pump where it sits for stock timing set-up? Anything i can look at externally to see if its been moved without having to use a scanner? Come to think of it, i remember seeing all kinds of yellow markings under the hood on the dual thermo housing, i'm going to go for another look here.

One more thing i forgot to mention. This morning after getting to work i throw the truck in reverse and it surged backwards for a split second, it does this maybe once every two weeks???


There's a yellow chalk mark on the injection pump, doesn't seem to line up with anything, blue chalk marks on the dual thermo housing.

I don't know about a '00 but my trucks have a clear centerline on the truck and pump to line up. It looks like a machine cut not a scratch.

mine surged in reverse the other day like you described

My 95' has surged on me in reverse to. I was lining up at the car wash to get into one of the bays. Had to back up and move over so I put it in reverse. Good thing no one was right behind me. That was back about 6 months ago though so it doesn't happen very often. CanadianRigger, I listened to your 4" exhaust video and man your truck sounds good. Do you only have the exhaust done to make it sound like that? How does the turbo whistle sound in the cab as your driving?Edited by: Silvy

guys,


The fuel solenoid in the IP would be my suspect. I had that surging in R till I switched pumps. It can go on for awhile or deteriorate rapidly. When it's gone it will surge all the time.

Silvy is it?


Yes, all i've done is put on a 3" mandrel bent down pipe (all i could fit going down), x-over to 4" by using a 3.5" x 4" exhaust swedge, the 3" down pipe was flared to just fit inside the 3.5" swedge and welded on, the 4" pipe connecting to the swedge was flared so the swedge would slip inside the pipe and then clamped with one of those self forming clamps (the name eludes me at the moment), then out the back over the hump and behind the wheel as factory. I did the x-over in that manner so that no ridges would disturb the flow coming out, once in the 4" i didn't worry about which way the pipes met up but most connections were made so all ridges in the pipe connections pointed away from the flow or you could say goes with the flow.


Sound in the cab.... hmmmm... only one word to sum that up... SWEET! Not to loud, turbo didn't make much noise before the exhaust install but she sure whistled after and sings even more with the boost fooler installed. To describe the turbo sound its like a turbo on a Mac truck sound when they drive by with their foot in it.


Here's a pic of the x-over, not a good pic but you get the idea.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/CanadianRigger/2004-11-07_082709_Untitled_0034_0005.jpg

That's awesome! Its making me pretty jealous. I know I will end up modifying the exhaust, its just a matter of getting around to doing it. Thanks.

The surging can get to the point of having the cruise control on with out really having it on. Try running the truck in neutral and slowly bring the RPM's up and watch the tach for an increase without increasing the accelerator. If any of these symptoms happen then the PMD is failing. These types of failures are rare. When this part fails the truck usually shuts off when it's not supposed to. It is covered for 120,000 miles or 11 years, and transferable.

I've seen this condition occur on trucks that I knew for a fact had a New PMD, because I built and installed the pump myself. So I disagree that it's an indicator of driver failure, I think its a PCM programming flaw. Failing PMD either cuts out and the truck will miss, die, not start or inaccurately report CTime readings to the PCM. Of course I have seen these 3rd gen drivers cause some pretty strange problems so I guess anythings possible.

Well i did another 0-60 once the roads dried up, still 15 seconds and thats hovering around 0C (freezing point), I have smoke on the initial hit but hardly a trace after that, boost is 16 at first and doesn't seem to drop below 8 or 9 when it winds out (fooler cranked of course), 3200-3300 rpm when it shifts. Just for the hell of it i floored it on some snowy back roads and all shifts were 2450 or so, must have something to do with the load on the drive train, i dunno.


I'm not 100% sure here but the truck hasn't stumbled/surged in a couple of days now. I pulled the battery cables off to do a cleaning, negatives/grounds were clean as a whistle, both positives had me wondering how i even had power.


Is there any other way i can increase fuel to this thing besides the bump, whats this talk about a fuel controler and how much and where can they be gotten?

#9 resistor will give you ~2-4ccs or 3-5% more fuel, depending on what you have in right now.


-1.9 TDC offset could give you a couple ponies as well I've heard.


Cetane Improver for the fuel helps.


Changing engine oil, tranny fluid and differential oil with synthetic fluids make a difference too.


All those things together should add up to a noticeable difference, Seat-O-The-Pants-Ometer and 0-60.

Did you know that to reflash it you have to send it in? gmctd was telling me bestbuy or one of those electronics outlets has '00 ecm's for a hundrend and some change. It make's since to have a backup if you want to use your dailydriver.

I'm not sure i'd really want a spare stock ecm... Once i get the performance i'm not going to want to go back to stock.

Go with a Heath reflash, you won't be disappointed, the A-1 fuel controller from all I've heard is more hype than performance.

I was waiting to here from you TD, where can one find a place to do some reading on this fuel controller? Maybe we could here from MDT as his signature says he has one? I've searched the web but can't seem to find it anywhere, maybe its at the muffler bearing store?


I understand your partial to Heaths reflash because of your experience with chips and such, i've browsed both Heaths site and Kennedy's site and can't seem to make up my mind on whose to go with, i'm looking at making Gobs of power without blowing this thing up and still drive it on a daily basis, it runs 12 hrs a day as an office especially in the winter, i'm not into changing out pistons until its coughed its last breath. One other thing, did they change the steel compositions in the block for 2000 or is the block still a week link? Anyone have any info on doing your own programming?

Sorry I've been burning candles at both ends, actually I'm on my way to San Francisco now, will be on a ship for a week, so I'll be of the Place for a week or so. JK has a new offering I hear supposed to give good performance, I don't have any experience with that one, his older version a (Z Industries) reflash same as B-D and others was selling a couple of years back wasn't much better than stock late model L65 PCM IMO, The Heath which I'm running is the best I've personally tested.


Gotta run, headed to the airport, then it will be at least a week before I have access to email again.


PM Matt-Max (MDT is his new handle IIRC) I think he has one, will fill you in on steak sauce products (fuel controller)Edited by: Turbine Doc

Can't find a-i, your looking to close to the source. look at duramaxbizhosting. There the storefront. The front comes from three other 6.5L forum's that Gmdieseltech administrates. I was reading some of it a year after I read it the first time. Lupey6.5L and grape and huisman and lots others are posting there now and it has gotten much better as an information source. A year ago it was all GMd-tech telling everyone who'd post that there problem's will all be solved with a-1 products, fooler $150, fuel $150 PMD on cooler and wiring extension $600. Mental imagry of Dan filling shipping boxes with tiolet paper rolls centers and empty water bottles: priclessEdited by: quantum mechanic

OK QM What are the other sites you speak of here?Edited by: bowtie

Not long ago Juanco found a company that rebuild's 6.5L blocks and he posted a link. They have a red webpage and on the sidebar it has a link to 6.5L chat, that's one. If you go to the www.dieselstop.com (http://www.dieselstop.com) and click the link for 6.5L chevy forums it goes to one. The other one I've found on google searches on GM 6.5L performance parts and other keywords, I change it up looking for the link I havn't seen. Anyway it's real easy to tell when you find one 'cuase GMdieseltech is the admin. I had some words with him and I can't get a membership now but the Place has me.

OK, alright already then, i get your points. If i'm going to get a fuel controller it's be more comonly known as the ECM. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

I tried tellin' ya that months ago.


You won't be disappointed...

I had some words with him and I can't get a membership now but the Place has me.


Yeapper and ain't we glad we got you here.


Thanks QM

Before i get a chip of any sort i need to get a scanner on this thing, get things running proper so i can see what difference i get with the chip/reflash. Then i can get a proper comparison.


And yes, you did say that awhile back.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif