I haven't done any performance mods on my truck yet except for exhaust. Just purschased a Transgo kit today and will be doing a converter at the same time at install. I was wondering about the Banks Big Head actuater if this mod is something needed or not. I plan on install a Juice/*** next month after I do the trans but I'm not sure of the benefit I would get from the Banks Big Head actuater. Any info would be great!


Thanks Bryce


I guess I should've posted this in Power & PerformanceEdited by: BDAWG

From what I've read the Big head wastegate valve is an adjustable unit to allow you to change how much boost your turbo makes. I think that, just like with anything else, this product allows you to get a little carried away with the boost numbers although I don't know if any one has grenaded a turbo with the big head. That's best left for the Juice grips http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif

If you are running enough programming to see alot of black smoke, then you will benefit from the Big Head wastegate.

I'm running the banks big head, with ppe tech IV, edge 125, and duramaximizer. My boost max's out at about 32-33 psi. Boost comes on super fast, you almost think your going to break the gauge the needle spins so fast. there's not much smoke at full boost, and egt's seem to be lower when pulling a heavy load or racing, this is only compared to my buddy running hot juice and duramaximizer, without the big head waste gate accuator. Overall I am happy with it no problems.

I have blown up a turbo with a Banks Wastegate.


Running a VA 'stoopid' box or a comp juice stack set the actuator at 24-26 lbs initial lift.


That is safe.


Beyond is not.


23 PSIG would be safest

Juice,
How can you be sure that the actuator is the reason your turbo blew? there are many people running the banks actuator, with no problems what's so ever, including me. why not blame it on your stack, or maybe even the fact that you did not get all the metal chips out of the manifold when drilling for a egt probe?
I wouldn't jump to conclusions on the origin of your problems, all your going to do is scare people away from buying aftermarket. If you know for a fact the actuator is the problem please elaborate further, so that the rest of us knows what is going on with turbo failures.

Juice,
How can you be sure that the actuator is the reason your turbo blew? there are many people running the banks actuator, with no problems what's so ever, including me. why not blame it on your stack, or maybe even the fact that you did not get all the metal chips out of the manifold when drilling for a egt probe?
I wouldn't jump to conclusions on the origin of your problems, all your going to do is scare people away from buying aftermarket. If you know for a fact the actuator is the problem please elaborate further, so that the rest of us knows what is going on with turbo failures.


How do i know? Experience. I did not say it was bad, In fact it is a good product, when used judiciously. no chips in pipes thanks. How do i know it blew by the gate? How about turbo thrust bearing failure as posted in another thread with the pics to prove it?


The bottom line on the gate is with larger programs or heavy fuelling the banks gate with a higher springrate than the stock gate uses up a 7 PSIG saftey margin rather quickly if set higher than that(and subsequently 'blow by' the gate). Don't take my word for it though, go out and set the gate higher and run a VanAaken 200+ or 'stoopid' box, or a comp juice stack and see how long it lasts.


But then again what do i know? I know what power i am making, I have burned thru more turbos than i care to mention.


Think of it this way, if ya really wanna school me on turbos, see what effect altitude has on ABSBoost VS PSIG VS Compressor RPM.


Depending on ALTITUDE 26 might work fine...until you make the trip to denver. The same boost you will make, but with thinner air the compressor will be spinning much faster than the 120,000 surge limit. Somewhere near 170,000 there is no going back period.


Not Scaring here, SHARING information so others do not suffer the same consequences. Do a search, read some of my posts and others and then decide if i am bashing or stating the facts.


Thanks


JuiceEdited by: Got Juice?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/GotJuice/2004-11-06_225856_IMG_0332a.JPG

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/GotJuice/2004-11-06_230008_IMG_0331a.JPG

Oh, If the post comes out as mean, do not take it as such.


Steve Cole and i have talked extensively about turbos and he has given me some food for thought, corrected me on wrong assumptions etc.


An optical turbo tachometer or a hall effect turbo tachometer or an industrial AC current induction tachometer would be a much better tuning tool than a boost gauge.


Boost gauges mean almost squat! Ported manifolds=less observed boost..... are ya gonna then turn the gate up because you lost boost? guess what? the turbo will die because you went beyond the turbo RPM limit. same thing at different altitudes. We know what RPM the surge occurs at, so to BE SAFE i posted the info. RPM is what is important, not observed boost pressure. and set to 23PSIG you will not have a problem barking or blowing up a turbo or blowing past the gate and blowing up a turbo

just installed mine yesterday, seen no difference, so i shorten it up a bit more,WOW, builds boost quickly, will count the threads, but peak boost will hit about 37 and average out around 33psi, i guess this might be a bit higher than the so called safe zone, so juice then from what you were saying at a higher ALTITUDE the turbo will work even harder to build the boost (higher rpms) until it self destructs, so i guess i better drop the boost, thanks againhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif

No worries Fred. Are you reading the boost#'s from an analog gauge in the intake manifold?

RPM is what is important, not observed boost pressure. and set to 23PSIG you will not have a problem barking or blowing up a turbo or blowing past the gate and blowing up a turbo


Are you recommending 23psig at the wastegate or at the intake manifold? If at the intake manifold or anywhere past the CAC, then what psig do you recommend at the wastegate (for sea level, knowing we all have to adjust for our altitude).

I would set the banks gate to not more than 26lbs at the actuator to be safe.


When set to initial 30 PSIG lift at the gate, you can 'Blow past' it and get the 'boom!'


23lbs is where i currently have mine set.... for durability reasons, yet i can still observe over that at the manifold, a consequence of a lot of fuel spooling the charger quickly and more spring pressure that the banks gate has.


If i were to hazard a guess (and that is what i am trying to do here is guess) that the ASL Strip at SIR...ASL Dyno @PDR and a Banks Wastegate that was set to 30PSIG. 30PSIG in 1st, 30 PSIG2nd ,3rd gear Boost spike under lock to 35PSIG 4th gear boost spike to 37 PSIG and i quit looking after that.


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15193&K W=550+RWHP&PN=0&TPN=4 (http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15193&KW=550+RWHP&PN=0&TPN=4)


on edit i have tried 28 lbs initial lift, but it is too unpredictable. i have spiked on that level as well. Is powerbarking bad?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley11.gifEdited by: Got Juice?

<DIV>No worries Fred. Are you reading the boost#'s from an analog gauge in the intake manifold? </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>it is taken off the intake manifild (drilled into the white cast peice to blue aftercoller hose) and am reading with the bullydog digital gauge</DIV>

......... Juice, quit goofing off. Not only would it be "The Bomb", you would sale them ........ build a damm reader. Yeah, bla, bla, bla about the lbs and tell us how much HP you make....... we want the full data. We want something that will read pressure, tell us shaft speed, give boost and ........ controle shaft speed. You know how to do it...... it's just....... will you do it? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif


You know..... get a turbo list, build a data platform, get the parts, call Steve Cole and burn some "smart chips" that will do the deed. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif





Burner--------------------&gt; http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

FYI, Something I did a few years ago when I got the Banks Actuator



http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1409&amp; PN=2