I REALLY want to run my truck at the track, but have been having TERRRIBLE luck with launching in 4X4. I ve broken/bent 2 sets of tierods (Even with sleeves) and bent one Centerlink:mad: . Im afraid to launch in 4x4 at the track or the street. My torsion bars are only half way up with green keys. Should i just stick to 2 wheel? taking off in 2 wheel on Hot level 6 i dont seem to get much spin from a non boosted stop. But i want to get the PPE hot +2 soon, I WANT 12's!!! Any advice is appreciated! THANKS:) :)

I REALLY want to run my truck at the track, but have been having TERRRIBLE luck with launching in 4X4. I ve broken/bent 2 sets of tierods (Even with sleeves) and bent one Centerlink:mad: . Im afraid to launch in 4x4 at the track or the street. My torsion bars are only half way up with green keys. Should i just stick to 2 wheel? taking off in 2 wheel on Hot level 6 i dont seem to get much spin from a non boosted stop. But i want to get the PPE hot +2 soon, I WANT 12's!!! Any advice is appreciated! THANKS:) :)
lower the tb all the way down what drag racing;)

BTW what are you launching at?

Will green keys allow enough drop to get the CV's level or aiming up? Pitman/Idler braces are a good add if you don't have them already.

Will green keys allow enough drop to get the CV's level or aiming up?
Mine would not allow that

I had to ditch my green keys in order to get full drop when pulling and racing. I can still run H2 rims and tires with stock torsion bars cranked and the usual trimming.

Thanks for the replys, so basically im screwed with green keys? I really like how my truck sits with them in, i guess im stuck with 2 wheel launches?

Even with the sleeves on my truck with the H2s, boosted launches with the t-bars cranked up, still resulted in the inward bow of the tires.

When I went to the track yesterday, i dropped the T-bars ALL the way down, then made several runs, each time building more boost.

I had a spotter with a 2-way radio watching each launch and letting me know if the front end was acting up. It was fine.

I think the launch that I got my best time was with RPMs around 2000.

Having the T-bars ALL the way down makes the world of difference. If your tie rod sleeves arent at the same straight angle as the axle, you are asking for problems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJgWPfLbM4Q

Green keys are great for bigger tires, but you have to remember that their lift STARTS 2" taller than the stock keys. So you cant completely bring your CV angles back down to level when using Green keys. I'd do as Malibu said....run the bolts right out of the adjusters and let the keys sit on the stops. That may help.

Green keys are great for bigger tires, but you have to remember that their lift STARTS 2" taller than the stock keys. So you cant completely bring your CV angles back down to level when using Green keys. I'd do as Malibu said....run the bolts right out of the adjusters and let the keys sit on the stops. That may help.
I pulled my keys before I pulled for the first time. I can still get the 2" of lift w/ the factory keys. I do exactly what Malibu said also

doesnt FABTECH warranty their tie rods? I heard they replace them for free if they break....no ?'s....

Well i 'll try taking the bolts out of the keys, I'd rather have the tie rods bend versus the centerlink, its a PITA to replace!:mad:

Tie rod sleeves are great at bracing the tie rods but do not anything to prevent the cause of the toe-in condition. I would either get Cognito braces, build your own brace to prevent the factory steering link from rotating, or buy the Super Diesel center link to go along with the tie rod sleeves.

Tie rod sleeves are great at bracing the tie rods but do not anything to prevent the cause of the toe-in condition. I would either get Cognito braces, build your own brace to prevent the factory steering link from rotating, or buy the Super Diesel center link to go along with the tie rod sleeves.
I have the Cognito braces, but still bent the centerlink.:(

Regardless what front end widgets you put up front you need to get the bars down :D

jmo :)

I am running 285 BFG's on my truck. Does anyone have clearence issues with those when dropping the bars down for racing?

In a straight line you will be fine......just dont cut the wheel all the way or you will rub.

Nope, I drop mine all the way down, make gentle turns into the track and off and have little to no rubbing...if I try to make sharp turns it rubs.

I had to ditch my green keys in order to get full drop when pulling and racing. I can still run H2 rims and tires with stock torsion bars cranked and the usual trimming.

so u can clear 315's by just cranking the torsion bars and trimming the plastic inner fender? i want to lift my truck to clear 35's but dont want to risk trashing my front end if i want to do a couple boosted 4hi launches.

Has anyone ran their torsion bars at stock height with the SD sleeves and centerlink? How did the front end hold up while launching in 4wd? Thanks.

I have green keys in my rig also and was wandering if i put a good set of cognitos tie rods,arm braces and a crank it up deisel center link, would i still have a problem with boosted 4x4 launches. I dont have my bolts turned in much at all, just enough to say that they are tight against the keys.

I have green keys in my rig also and was wandering if i put a good set of cognitos tie rods,arm braces and a crank it up deisel center link, would i still have a problem with boosted 4x4 launches. I dont have my bolts turned in much at all, just enough to say that they are tight against the keys.
I had the Cognito braces/ tierod sleeves and bars not cranked very far and still bent the tierods and centerlink.

I had the Cognito braces/ tierod sleeves and bars not cranked very far and still bent the tierods and centerlink.

Do you have aftermarket center link? thats were i hear the problem comes from. When the center link bends that causes the tie rods to flex and twist and break,ive been told get a high strenth alloy center link and wont have a problem. I am just getting everyone opinion at this point.

Do you have aftermarket center link? thats were i hear the problem comes from. When the center link bends that causes the tie rods to flex and twist and break,ive been told get a high strenth alloy center link and wont have a problem. I am just getting everyone opinion at this point.
No I dont, i heard it makes the steering a little unfreindly for the street.

No I dont, i heard it makes the steering a little unfreindly for the street.
I heard also,but maybe a risk we must take to have show and the go:cool: I will loose a little turning if i know it will work and holds up under boosted 4x4 launches

I heard also,but maybe a risk we must take to have show and the go:cool: I will loose a little turning if i know it will work and holds up under boosted 4x4 launches
I agree! Piece of mind is worth a lot! So,,, does anyone have the stronger centerlink and is it holding up with green keys and boosted launches?

But i was wandering, if the centerlink is upgraded to prevent bending, what is next to break or bend?

But i was wandering, if the centerlink is upgraded to prevent bending, what is next to break or bend?
From what I understand is that if u have good idler arms and pitmans with braces,then u have a strong centerlink, then u follow that up with a strong tie rods their is nothing left to tow in. The tow in is what makes parts bend cause the tire has so much torque going to it and if u keep them strait and sturdy then u have no issues. Maybe half shafts if your angle is way out of wack, (mine aint bad) and your parts already have alot of use and abuse on them. Just my .o2 cents, please some one else help us out here:D

Regardless what front end widgets you put up front you need to get the bars down :D

jmo :)



Very good advice! Not only does it go a long ways towards preventing bent and broken front end parts but is absolutely necessary for smooth consistent launches when drag racing.

that sucks,i guess u cant have the show and the go. I have done several boosted 4x4 launches and till now never had a prob. Now it has finally done some damage:eek:. But i bet it took 15 to 20 maybe more with a stock tie rods and centerlink with green keys and 325 tires. Maybe i will be the fist one to be the idiot to try and waste 650 or so on cognitos tie rode and a strong centerlink just for everyone to say "I Told u so dumb a**". I dont know maybe it will work,i have wasted alot of money before. Butplease if some one has already tried or if u know for sure it wont work let me know.Some times i have to hear it several times to finally let it sink in Thanks alot everyone, good thread i think alot of peaple will learn from this.:nutkick:

that sucks,i guess u cant have the show and the go. I have done several boosted 4x4 launches and till now never had a prob. Now it has finally done some damage:eek:. But i bet it took 15 to 20 maybe more with a stock tie rods and centerlink with green keys and 325 tires. Maybe i will be the fist one to be the idiot to try and waste 650 or so on cognitos tie rode and a strong centerlink just for everyone to say "I Told u so dumb a**". I dont know maybe it will work,i have wasted alot of money before. Butplease if some one has already tried or if u know for sure it wont work let me know.Some times i have to hear it several times to finally let it sink in Thanks alot everyone, good thread i think alot of peaple will learn from this.:nutkick:
I hear ya Bro, I know its pay to play and Ive shelled out some big bucks. :rolleyes: But im getting tired of Spending on Parts only to break them again. I'd just like to Do it once and do it right. Maybe i should just get a 4'' lift That Drops the front diff......

Interesting.............I am sort of building the foundation to make my truck a mid-low 13 sec. truck !

One thing I just don't feel like messing with is dropping the t- bars to go race ................but can see from your experience that I should definately do it even though I have braces, sleeves, and new pitman/idler arms !!!

Being lazy/cheap in this sport seems to always get you in the end !!! LOL

I hear ya Bro, I know its pay to play and Ive shelled out some big bucks. :rolleyes: But im getting tired of Spending on Parts only to break them again. I'd just like to Do it once and do it right. Maybe i should just get a 4'' lift That Drops the front diff......
will tht take care of the prob. If i know that that would work for sure i would ditch the green keys and buy a tuff country 4'' lift, then i could run a 35x11.50x18 tire. alittle taller than my current tires but not as wide, so maybe they would weigh about the same as mine now. (Wow they are heavy compared to the stockers by double or more). Then follow that up with a good set of tie rods, Do u think that would solve the tow in prob.

will tht take care of the prob. If i know that that would work for sure i would ditch the green keys and buy a tuff country 4'' lift, then i could run a 35x11.50x18 tire. alittle taller than my current tires but not as wide, so maybe they would weigh about the same as mine now. (Wow they are heavy compared to the stockers by double or more). Then follow that up with a good set of tie rods, Do u think that would solve the tow in prob. Im not sure bro, I hate to ditch my setup and spend 2000$ on a lift that wont look much higher than what i have. Id really like my current combo to work.

Im not sure bro, I hate to ditch my setup and spend 2000$ on a lift that wont look much higher than what i have. Id really like my current combo to work.
I agree but i did talk to tony burkhard and he is a serious puller and drager and he said the tuff country 4'' is the way to go. Also a guy by the name of "wooter" said he has done sled pulls and a couple boosted 4x4 launches with great luck with the 4'' kit with 35'' tires. check his truck out it looks really good with the 35's. I let u Know if i come up with anything else.:cool:

Forgive my ignorance... But is your 1/4 mile time really all that different when running in 4X4?

Forgive my ignorance... But is your 1/4 mile time really all that different when running in 4X4?
with out slick yes;)
with street tires im about .5-1 second slower a 4x4 truck running the same power depeniding on the track