Anybody have the part number for the Scat crankshaft? I can not see it on their website. Thanks.

send a PM to ratman....he just bought one...

SCAT part number for the 9000 series 6.5 crank is:

9-6.5L-3819-6280

Phone: 310-370-5501

Ask for Brian, -tell him Rich sent ya. The reason I say that is because I'm trying to convince him that there is a demand for a forged crank. He said that if the cast steel cranks sell well enough that they may consider making a forged one.

I told him I'd put the word out on the cast steel ones, -and yeah, I did buy one.

I paid around $540 with shipping, -it's heavy!

Rich.

what exactly is different between this crank and the stock GM boat anchor?

It is a 9000 series steel allloy, -said to be good for 20,000 PSI higher tensile strength than the factory nodular iron.

I looked at it as a definite step in the right direction. Besides, I wasn't about to roll the dice on my 200k mile factory crank in a freshly rebuilt motor.

This baby has quite the ring when you play it with a screwdriver, -the characteristic of a high-tensile/high-carbon alloy for sure.

The grinding work is very nice also.

These guys know crankshafts. I have used their stuff in the past in a couple of rat motors I built that went into a boat, and several other mousie-motors, -never a problem with any of their stuff. Obviously, our diesel-rats are a different ballgame than a gasser, but everything looks good on paper regarding their 6.5 crank. After speaking with Brian, it sounds like they did their homework regarding the fact that it is a diesel.

Rich.

Supposedly, the difference is a better alloy in the mix.

It is a better crank.

But, For some a steel crank is the answer. I don't think it'll ever be cost effective to opt for a full blown forged unit.

Basically it all boils down to this.

The GM crank survived a long duration under most uses, but is viewed as being weak and breaking in few engines, and those pushing the envelope.

This Scat cast crank is enough marginally stronger to make it worth while as the first upgrade to make a nearly stock - slightly modified (aka, a max-e tork upgrade) 6.5 more reliable. So, increased reliablity for the original application of this engine.

At the price level of the cast crank, it make sence to replace the GM unit with the Scat crank during a build, especially if you're in the situation where the stock crank needs machine work to be placed back in service (turning).

A steel Billet (see discussion on another forum for term.) crank would be better suited for MAX 6.5TD power projects. A couple of my projects could certainly beneft. But, currently getting one cost a couple grand. Twelve 7-11's down, many to go...

This is something I'm very interested in and will likely attempt to get quite soon. I'm fine with using an old block, but I shiver at using a crank with over 175,000+ miles. Thanks for this, Ratman!

Jay

Wish i had known of this before sending mine to cryo....:o:

I have used the Scat crankshafts in many engines, none for myself but lots for customers. They are very tough considering the relatively low cost. I built a 14:1 CR alcohol claimer (IMCA mod) engine with a Scat caststeel crankshaft and their forged I-beam (budget) rods about eight years ago. It has seen well over the 8000rpm mark in several races and outside of freshening up the big end of the rods and new bearings at the end of the racings seasons it has remained untouched. It has been on Guyons engine dyno and produces over 500hp. Not to bad for a 350. It has been a very tough and reliable engine.

Needless to say I was delighted when I found out Scat was building a crankshaft for the 6.5 engines.

Thanks for the information Rich.

Wish i had known of this before sending mine to cryo....:o:

How much did the cryo cost?

If ya don't mind me askin'??

Rich.

Wish i had known of this before sending mine to cryo....:o:

Man, you're starting to sound like the old Grape we once knew, lots of doo dads, but where is the rig?

Just taking a nice little jab as usual.

Don't worry though, I'm back at square 1 with mine.

Not sure on the cryo costs yet, i haven't seen the bill, don't worry about the jabs either, at least i've posted many pics, numbers, dyno sheets, video's to back up all i do, no BS here, you guys gets to see it first hand..... (maybe second...... i'm first!)

Riggers rig will be rocking soon enough........ well maybe not soon enough for me..... perfection takes time. ;)

Riggers rig will be rocking soon enough........ well maybe not soon enough for me..... perfection takes time. ;)

Man, -I can sure relate to that statement right there. I started my "little project" back in February, -and I'm still a ways from even building the shortblock.

I guess when you're stubborn, -and know what you want, -you take however long it takes to do it the way you want it done.

On a side note, -I personally hold you and Chicago responsible for my 18:1 adventure.

It was you guys' dang videos that slowly took control of my brain. After about 6 months of watching tweaked 6.5's and tire smoke, I started foaming at the mouth. When I found out the 21:1 motor in my truck was terminal, my vision began to blur, -and I started slurring words. The wierdest part was having strange dreams involving holset turbochargers and neon green paint. ):h

It's too late now, -the damage is done, -and I can't be cured. :D

Thanks for the inspiration!

Rich.

I will not be held responsible for yours or anyone else's addiction to 6.5 disease ;)

Why are we all so obcessed with being "turd polishers"

Lemme explain.

A good mechanic friend of mine used to play with 6.2's when they were new, developed his own turbo setup for his Blazer with 44's on it and had a very good runner according to him.

I'm always playing around with these engines, and everytime I come up with a new idea or something to do on the engine, he tells me that it's already been done or thought about, by him.

We get in the mode of making it the best it can be.

He had a saying though, he said whatever you do "you can't polish a turd", which was (and still is) his impression of the 6.5L.

Well, maybe there is some some logic to that.

I'm still determined to put a shine on one though :)

But, the last thing he told me (haven't talked in months) in regard to certain power levels I was working with in a certain configuration is "you'll break the crank"

Damn, how'd ya know that?

:confused:

But, you're right, it's an addictive disease, for some reason :D


Time will tell for me tho, I'm negotiating with a fella for an LLY Duramax/Ally combo for conversion.

Have any of you guys that bought a marine or AMG engine had the chance to look at the crankshaft? Did they have GM markings, IH Diamonds or maybe even a Scat marking?

The reason I ask is that I was recently told (by a somewhat unreliable source, sometimes) that the Scat crankshafts are in the AMG engines.
I know for sure that Navistar is casting the blocks and heads, other parts are sourced from other places due to AM General not owning a foundry. Now the explanation went on to saying that Navistar / IH has never made a cast iron crankshaft. I rebuilt lots of Navistars and Harvester engines over the years and I can not think of any cast crankshafts in any of their engines, not even the big gassers dating back into the 60's and 70's.

I know I might be pulling at straws but what do you guys think, and/or know??

I think that there might be a lot more popular engines that Scat might have chased down to build crankshafts for, why the 6.5? Are they building it simply for us and some marine applications or is there a way broader market for them such as the retrofit of the Humvee's? :think:

i got an excellent price on a scat crank.

My Scat is inbound & should be here next week

I will have mine next week also. turbine doc are you going gear drive as well?

I will have mine next week also. turbine doc are you going gear drive as well?

Yup,

this build will have every doo-dad on it generally known to make max HP with exception of splayed mains & girdle (hoping the DD h/d block is sufficent to stay together), my turbo choice has not been decided yet

scat crank 20 over pistons,new heads ported and polished,new lifters and push rods,new harmonic balancer,gear drive,stud girdle kit,marine injectors,new oil cooler lines,dual thermostats with 130 water pump,new glow plugs,injector lines and all new bottom end parts its at the machine shop now.