I've been chasing Turbo boost problems on my 96 3500. Reading many threads and other posts, I decided to try a homemade WG. Sifting the various configuations, I figured to follow Turbomaster, hoping that their design would have some decent R&D. Saturday afternoon was spent making and testing my WG. I live on a mountain, so testing is easy. A couple of springs and adjustments later my truck pulls steady boost, no black smoke and 2-300* less EGT. With luck it will also raise MPG and reverse greying hair. Many thanks for everyone's info, To TRACY for his excellent Pics. Will try to add a pic if I can figure that out too.

Rusty

nice job, ...
Now about that grey hair thing, how does it work on growing hair?

Have to get back to ya on the hair part

OH thanks.

Rusty where did you get your spring? Do you have any specs on the spring? The rear lever where it connects to the wastegate is that homemade? If so I just wondered why you couldn't use the factory one? Thanks,
Bob

i hope it works as good as it looks! i dont suppose you traced out the brackets before you put it on did ya?? i had an original tm ..forgot to do the tracing ..then sold the truck. not that i mind buying one but it was 2 months before it arrived, had to break down and put a 400 vac pump on in the meantime.

Fone The spring was in my spring collection, 2 1/4 long, 7/16 dia. didn't measure the wire, but fairly light. The rear lever is homemade. I checked out a picture of a turbomaster and some Pics from Tracy and used my calipers to get an idea about distances between the pivots on the arm. Same sort of idea on the Turbo mounted bracket. Made a couple of templates, then the real thing. The ratio between the factory arm and my arm pivot distance is 2 1/2. I must admit I copied the design that just looked right. I liked the idea of the ratio because then I could use a lighter spring, which I think gives me better adjustability and spring choice.

Rig : ran out of room in quick reply did have my measurments for the arm on a chunk of cardboard. started with a rectangle 3 1/2 X 2 1/4 X 1/4(alum). The holes on my factory arm and my top holes are 1 1/8" apart. the distance between the pivot hole and the lower hole on my arm is 2 3/4". Used 90* as angle for holes. Pivot hole had to be 9/16 to clear weld. top hole was 8mm(5/16) Lower hole 1/4. Cut the lower part of the arm back so that the clevis could pivot in line with the upper pivot. The clevis is 1/4 X 2 1/2 long, the rod is 5 1/2 long. 1/4NF on clevis end and 1/4 NC on adjust end cause I have more NC nuts. Spring I ended up with is 2 1/4 X 7/16 X .048 wire. The cardboard Turbo mounted plate template melted in the thunderstorm, but I just measured the two bolt centers then cut a 1/4 plate(alum), put it on, took a straight line from the clevis and marked where the hole should be. Took it off, cleaned it up and put the whole thing together. Took a couple of tries with springs and adjustments, but the thing works like a hot damn. Noticed you have a 92 6.2. The factory pivot arm might be backwards from mine. Not a huge deal, just might want to take a look at Tracy's garage to see what I mean. Rusty

ya not for the 6.2 (no turbo) plus it wouldnt be worth the angle iron even if it had a turbo lol.

I guess i need to update my sig

That looks perty good. Ok you said the ratio on the WG lever is 2 1/2.
Is that 2.5" difference in length? I thought about doing a side mnt brkt
when I did mine, but wanted to keep it simple.

I may try to do one anyway, so I can compare the two.
I have sheet metal fab machines and software, make things like this easy.

The 2 1/2(approx) ratio comes from the spacing in the factory arm holes being 1 1/8" and the spacing between the pivot point and the lower hole in the arm being 2 3/4. I got my ratio from measuring pictures with my calipers, so Close is obviously good enough. How well does yours work.
Rusty

It works well, I have used two different springs.
One is short 1.312" long and stiff as hell installed at 1.250" I get
a max of 12psi (no IC) on hard accel, and about 2 psi cruising.
(pic in my garage) it will go higher psi.
the other is 4" long installed at 3.250" it is on my truck now.
Max at 13.5-14 psi and about 2psi cruise and 4.5psi @ 60 mph.
I like the crispness of the short spring better, the longer one has
more psi drop between gears. I'll be changing back to the short spring.

Both spring came off of tooling from a CNC punchpress.

Greg, thats a nicely finished control you've built.
following this subject around, it appears that both designs work, Using the stock arm means using a stronger spring, and a longer offset arm a lighter one. The length and compression strength of the spring gives us various amounts of boost at different loads. A Guy could play with this one for way too long. I haven't put but a few miles on mine, I think I'll take some other springs with me on my next trip. Rusty

Check this one out 1/8" 304 sst, also more pics in my garage now.

Also here is a pic of the long spring that I was using with the old bracket
which is 12 ga. painted steel.

That's purdy. Can you make a turbo housing out of 401 to go with that?

I could give it a try, but would be costly I don't have any 401 handy.
I will try my hand at an upper intake for my IC though.

Your more than welcome nieghbor, I live in Armstrong I could have give you all the info on the subject I have, and seen it in person saved some guess work LOL. The spring I used is 11/16" dia. 3" long and the wire dia. is .075. and there is 14 wraps of wire in the 3". I can't remember for sure were it is from but must either be Princess Auto or Lordco.

Rusty Pm me if you want to get together for a coffee.

Pull your snail and elbow and have 'em blasted and ceramic-coated in the color of your choice, even chrome - works fine, lasts a long time.............

Hmmmm! thats a good Idea, what would that cost?
Chrome or colored? now I have to add that to my list.