Well, congratulations, you have finally done it. You went out and purchased the truck of your dreams. After painstakingly choosing your color and options, you found the truck you have been wanting for years. You stare for hours at here smooth lines, and spend most of your weekends walking around it with a cotton cloth wiping off finger prints that you only imagine are there. You pop the hood and suddenly it becomes a main stage of inactivity for you and a few close friends to gather around and sip a few cold ones. You are then envy of your friends and neighbors, you have achieved greatness! But wait….. Now you realize that it requires care and attention, not just a regular bath, but more. A lot of people are not sure what to do and may not know how to do it or when it needs to be done. If you fall into one of those categories, read on. I have wrote this just for you.


Today’s vehicles are more dependable then ever before and are designed to run for many miles with little or no maintenance, or at least that’s what the manufacturer would like you to believe. A good maintenance habit is vital to the life of any machine and these trucks are no exception. The fluids must be maintained to ensure that the metals they protect have the proper protection. The filters must be maintained to ensure that the fluids last. The appearance must be maintained to ensure that you don’t have to transplant your driveline into another truck because your body fell apart. All of this maintenance is very simple to do and can be completed by the average DIYer.



The following maintenance schedule was arranged using information from GM, OEM manufacturers and personal experience. It does not represent the standard and should only be used as reference, you may choose to alter it depending on you use of the vehicle. Depending on the year of your truck and the emission system you have, some of the information given may or may not apply. I will also include a suggested list of things to carry with you in your truck for an emergency situation. You will notice that the schedule only goes up to 100,000 miles. After you reach that, refer back to the first service and start over.





5000 miles
<DIR>


Change oil and filter, lubricate suspension. Will be referred to as LOF for future


Inspect tires for correct air pressure and signs of damage. For aggressive tread patterns, it’s a good idea to rotate them at this time. Highway tires can go 10,000 miles between rotations


Replace external spin on transmission filter in Allison equipped trucks.</DIR>


Drain and refill rear axle lube if equipped with the G-80 Eaton differential. It is only required at this interval to remove break in material.


PMI. (preventative maintenance inspection) This includes but is not limited too a complete general inspection of lights, possible fluid leaks and overall vehicle condition. Also, inspect and top off W/W solvent, brake fluid, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, coolant, transfer case, and front and rear axles. Check and replace air filter as needed. Check serpentine drive belt for fraying or cracking. Check and adjust air pressure in tires and don’t forget about the spare. Check and clean fuel cooler of debris. Inspect condition of wiper blades and replace as needed. Inspect batteries and cables for signs of leakage, tightness. Use a spray on type off sealer to help prevent corrosion buildup and keep it cleaned off using a baking soda and cola mixture or a spray style cleaner. GM feels that leaking batteries are partly caused from the posts overheating from poor contact between the cable and battery, make sure this is clean and the cable is tightened properly.








10,000 miles
<DIR>


LOF


Tire rotation and inspection


PMI


Lubricate door hinges, latches and pivo

Eric,

Great List!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Your note to lube the drive shaft splines at the transmission caught my attention. Do you have to pull the drive shaft? I don't recall seeing a fitting on my 2500HD with the single piece drive shaft.
(My 98 K3500 dually had spline grease fittings - one for the rear two-piece drive shaft and one for the front drive shaft.)

Also I think the DMAX oil spec is CH-4 or CI-4 (not CG-4)?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif Edited by: jbplock

I see that you actually are able to accomplish all this in your sleep.


Thank you for the list.

Also I think the DMAX oil spec is CH-4 or CI-4 (not CG-4)?
Edited by jbplock on 02 November 2003 at 3:32am


I agree with jbplock. My diesel supplement states CH-4 or CI-4. It is difficult to find, but is recommended for better trapping. Comments Eric.
By the way. Great list, stuff we all should know and do, but are usually too lazy to make a list. Thanks for taking the time.

How does one go about doing an oil analysis, and what valuable information does it give you?

How does one go about doing an oil analysis, and what valuable information does it give you? You can get a kit from George MOrrison at www.avlube.com (http://www.avlube.com)


It can tell you content of wear metals and if any fuel or coolant is present. It will tell you much much more then I even know.


Eric

Eric,

Great List!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Your note to lube the drive shaft splines at the transmission caught my attention. Do you have to pull the drive shaft? I don't recall seeing a fitting on my 2500HD with the single piece drive shaft.
(My 98 K3500 dually had spline grease fittings - one for the rear two-piece drive shaft and one for the front drive shaft.)

Also I think the DMAX oil spec is CH-4 or CI-4 (not CG-4)?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif Bill, you must remove the driveshaft to lube the splines, its a biggest concern on the one piece shaft on the rear, I dont worry so much about the front shaft or the two piece shafts, lubing it will help it move freely and avoid those double bumps on stop and accel


I checked the supplement manual and your right, they do call for CI-4 oil. The service manual does not. I will edit that.


Eric

Bill, you must remove the driveshaft to lube the splines ...

Thanks Eric! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Great list.
I might have missed it but I didn't see any mention of servicing wheel bearings.Is any required?

Great list.
I might have missed it but I didn't see any mention of servicing wheel bearings.Is any required? sealed units

Eric,


I registered today to ask you about the recomended maint list &amp; saw you'd allready posted it. Thanks alot. I'm a first time diesel owner with a 03 duramax. I do most of my own maint. &amp; was lost in a sea of recomendations.


Thanks again,


Dana

RedMax, besure to ask if your not sure, lots of people here to help


Eric

Great info! It came just in time, picked up my truck this past Monday.


One question, how do I find out if I have a G-80 Eaton differential? See sig for my truck model.


Thanks!


Mark

&gt;One question, how do I find out if I have a G-80 Eaton differential?


Forgot to mention, I have the locker diff in back.


Thx-


Mark

In the glove box there should be a service parts ID label. It has all the RPO (regular production options) codes. G80 is the code for the Eaton locker. These are some other axle codes.



<TABLE width="100%" border=1>
<T>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


GT4</TD>
<TD vAlign=top align=left>


Axle Rear 3.73 Ratio</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


GT5</TD>
<TD vAlign=top align=left>


Axle Rear 4.10 Ratio (DUP With GT8)</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


GU4</TD>
<TD>


Axle Rear 3.08 Ratio</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


GU6</TD>
<TD vAlign=top align=left>


Axle Rear 3.42 Ratio</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


G80</TD>
<TD vAlign=top align=left>


Axle Positraction Limited Slip</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


G86</TD>
<TD>


Axle Limited-Slip</TD></TR></T></TABLE>

Yep, GT4/G80. Thanks-


Mark

Great post, one suggestion would be to emphasize paying attention to the air filter....From my experience that is the one thing people new to diesels are negligent about....Remember that a diesel runs about 10 times more air through than a gasser, so the filter gets dirty much faster.





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

[QUOTE=martyb]


Great post, one suggestion would be to emphasize paying attention to the air filter....From my experience that is the one thing people new to diesels are negligent about....Remember that a diesel runs about 10 times more air through than a gasser, so the filter gets dirty much faster.





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


PMI. (preventative maintenance inspection) ............This includes but is not limited too Check and replace air filter as needed.

I saw it in PMI, that is why I mentioned to emphasize it and not add it.

Eric, big thanks from a newbie to diesels.





cmc

Marty, no problem, thought you missed it.

Eric - Thanks for the list; it's very helpful... one clarification though - (my novice mechanical knowledge) under the "Fluid and Lubrication Recommendations" you call out "Chassis Grease" - this is for things like the zirk fittings, right? Are there other grease points applicable for chassis greasing?


Thanks,


Rod

Eric


Do I pull the 2 piece drive shaft and lube splines or not. I am confused


Genohttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

ROd, yes, for susp fitttings


Geno, no

Good list, but I have a couple of comments.
1) The owners' manual that came with my truck lists the service intervals as 7,500 miles (with oil changes as indicated by the oil life calculation). Is the change to 5,000 mile intervals GM's idea or your's ? I'm not asking if it is a good or a bad idea, just who's idea.
2) There is a recommendation in the owners' manual to change the transmission fluid at 25,000 miles if towing, hauling, heavy duty, etc use, at 50,000 for light or regular duty use. Your list says 30,000 regardless of use - again, who's idea is this ?
3) Basically the same question for the G80 rear end, your list recommends a change at 5,000 to get rid of break in junk, but the manual doesn't mention it. Personally I think it needs a few flushes, but maybe I over reacted when I saw what came out of mine the first time.

I guess the basic questions are whether or not the user's manual has been superceded and if not do these changes have GM's ok ?

The other thing is capacities, I'd almost bet that SOME owners have had their little *mart drain pan overflow onto the driveway at the first oil change - and had to borrow the spouse's car to go and buy another gallon or more of the slippery stuff http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif I suggest a couple of columns, service drain/refill and total fill (when a pan is removed, etc.)

Just opinion, we all have 'em.

Awesome post since this is my first D/A but have been doing this type of maintenance for years on the gassers.


Thanks!

Hi!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Anyone out there have an Excell spreadsheet with this maintenance list, and fuel milage caculator?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gifEdited by: Melvin Hatcher

Can someone tell me about this passenger compartment filter? That's new to me. Where do I look and what for?


Jason http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

Found the "G80" - which leads to another question. Does anybody know where to find out what the rest of those codes mean? There must be about 90 of them.


Thanks http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif

Hey,


Idle-Chatter have some excellent Excel spreadsheets for your vehicle record keeping.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Dmaxallitech


a question related to lubing the drive shaft...you mentioned a "double bump" one might feel on accel or stopping. I experience this, not often, but it is mostly when I am stopping and on a slightly upward incline. It is almost like the tranny is suddenly downshifting right before stopping. How is lubing the drive shaft related to the "double bump"? Is this a serious problem if I am already feeling this?


The Boss

Do all d-maxs have that change oil soon system?? or is that reserved to just those w/the DIC controls?? Is there anyway to check it, w/out the DIC controls..?

Boss, its possible that this is what your feeling, when you come up for the work, we can check it out further to see whats up.


Polarbear, All of the trucks have the OLM. On the DIC trucks, you can see a percentage of life left, on the earlier trucks, you have to use a scan tool to see the % left, you wont know until the light comes on how close it is.

Dmax, thanks for the reply...I was going to send you a PM to see if you would look into this while I was there. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

It's nice to have everything in one list. Thanks

I too have the start and stop clunk and took it into the dealer for this condition. They relubed the slip yoke and twice now for the condition but it always comes back after about 3000 miles. They finally found a nickel plated slip yoke replacement part that suppose to take care of the issue but they can't seem to get there hands on one. Hopefully they can get this problem taken care of because it's really annoying especially since it's a 48,000 dollar truck. I could have bought a Corvette with that kind of money and I bet you if it were a Corvette that they would have it fixed in a heartbeat.

Im new to the site, and have lots to learn, especially since this is my first diesel. I appreciate the list, however I do have one question. I have a hypertech power programmer installed to add 90+ hp, would this have any effect on when i need to change my oil and tranny fluid?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif

2002 2500hd cc lb 4x4 full replacement ranchhands, k&amp;n filter, hypertech programmer, complete soundsystem overhaul, and lookin to add intake and exhaust in the near future.

oh, and is there any particular oil i should use that yall recommend such as rotella t, or royal?

Eric
where did the rest of the list go after 10K ?? It was on here before the format change.
Thanks
Mike

I think it got lost in the conversion. I am updating it and will repost it.

I think it got lost in the conversion. I am updating it and will repost it.
Did you ever find the rest of the list after 10K miles? I don't see it here.

TTT would like to print the whole thing. :)

Did the full list ever get re-posted? Man I wanted to see the information.
JH

TTT -- add me to the repost wishlist

I've got some extra time now so I will be working on getting that thing back up soon

I've got some extra time now so I will be working on getting that thing back up soon
Thanks for your time. Looking forward to seeing it.

We all truly appreciate it. By the way -- through searching I found an excell spreadsheet that has all that stuff. It's here http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6979&page=2&pp=10

Is that the same?

Also what is -- rear lube -- front lube? Those were the only two I couldn't figure out?

Eric,
Thanks for the post. It just reminded me to change the tranny fluid. Ordered through your site. Sure made it easy. Again thanks

Eric,

Thank you so much. We are really looking forward to seeing it.