odlaw
07-17-2007, 09:17 PM
I'm having a no start when hot problem. I've read here if it will start by cooling it down with luke warm water then the head/rotor are warped and I need to replace the pump. I talked to a diesel mechanic with Dept. of forrestry and he asked me how much water was I pouring over the pump and at what rate(ie. dribble or just dumping it on) I told him I poured (slowly) one water bottle(.5L) and she'll start everytime. He suggested that it would take at least a half gallon to cool a pump to the point it would work(if the pump was bad) and thought that my problem might be with the fuel shutoff solenoid. He told me to try pouring the water over just the top/front of the pump(directly over the solenoid) and see if it will start. It does. I pulled the top of the pump off and checked the solenoid - it works but of course it's not hot now that I removed it. I noticed that the plastic cover around the solenoid is slightly discolored in the middle and it has a crack running almost full length. The solenoid is $308.00 at the dealer(probably can find it online cheaper) and well, you know the pumps aren't cheap. I would like some suggestions as I don't want to buy the solenoid only to find out the pump is bad and then have to buy the pump. I just got this truck running and want to make sure it's solid before I start dumping money into it.
Thanks for any suggestions in advance.
gmctd
07-17-2007, 10:54 PM
Locate the Stanadyne model number tag on the side of the IP, driver's-side low - post the color and if any green-tag on one of the top-cover screws - at 168kmi, you're way passed due for a replacement IP, and hot hard-start is a well-known failure symptom
BTW - welcome to the 'place, odlaw.......
odlaw
07-17-2007, 11:19 PM
Man, that was one of the toughest homework assignments I've had in many years...:). I hope this is correct C7 CB2831 4911 - it was difficult to read - was using an inspection mirror. No tags on the top cover screws, only some sort of epoxy on one of them...
Thanks for the assistance and the welcome note.
DieselPro
07-17-2007, 11:28 PM
4911 pump was the worst year for Stanadyne mech. pumps. The head and rotor is worn out not the solenoid. Check by seeing if it clicks when you stick the wire to it. Clicks means the solenoid is working.
The H&R is bad $$$$. PM me for more info.
gmctd
07-17-2007, 11:37 PM
If the model number tag is black - it is the oem IP and in dire need of replacement -
if the tag is red - the rotor head is worn at hi-miles and in need of replacement -
- or -
check the batteries, battery cables, and starter-motor - min cranking speed is 100rpm@hot
Try the Fuel shutoff Solenoid test, as suggested,
check the electrical system for slow starter speed - will definitely cause hot hard-start
if black tagged, replacement IP is the solution - cool-water trick sorta points to that, but will also help if slow cranking speed is the problem
odlaw
07-18-2007, 10:21 AM
I forgot to mention I tested the solenoid by unplugging the power - you can hear a definite "clicking" of it when you apply the power - I did it while it was hot. But not being familiar with IP's (this being my first diesel...other than my two tractors), I didn't know if the solenoid was clicking and not holding, or I had bad ground or something like that. I added a second ground cable (6 ga)from the head to the chassis(the original ground, even though I could see it, looked too aggravating to bother with checking the ohms through it.
Have already check and cleaned all battery connections and grounds. Starter spins engine fast....not slow or dragging
Label on the IP is black.
So, now that I've accepted that I need to replace the IP my next question is...
Which to buy, the more expensive rebuilt with "upgraded head and rotor from Stanadyne" that supposedly won't warp again.
or the cheaper rebuilt that only defective parts were replaced and the head and rotor are not the upgraded ones?
I've found a couple of places that sell them but any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
LUVMY65
07-19-2007, 05:28 PM
Dont skimp on quality. Always buy the best that you can afford. I purchased my 65TD a few years ago. It had the same symptoms and it cost me $1,000 before I could even drive it. Check the warranty and use that to guide you. I try to buy the items whith the best warranty. Especially the ones that I am sure to replace again.
Good luck.
gmctd
07-19-2007, 07:20 PM
If DieselPro doesn't pop in here with disposition, PM him for further information