I thought I read once about an oil filter extender or something like that which would make the filter more accessable on a 6.5 with 4WD. Awfully tight in there, anyone know what it is and where can I buy one? No issues with install or performance??

Dan,


I would most highly recommend a remote bypass fiter setup, filters are now located under my feet, I have a AMZOIL one on mine adapted to take less expensive than AMZOIL Baldwin filters, only took 1 change on my K1500 to make that my 2nd upgrade right after the Banks Exhaust.

Get the double filter setup from PermaCool. Cost three times as less,
takes inexpensive oil filters (vs "special" ones) and practically
does the same thing.

Is the permacool a bypass set up or just dual filts of same size, Baldwins aren't special filters the AMZOIL ones are which is why mine is adapted for std filters.

Dual of same size. Factory oil filter housing has a bypass valve
already, so makes me wonder if Amsoil's second filter ever sees the
bypass situation.

You ever pull any oil samples on that set up, I'd be interested in seeing results, I'm in middle of a extended interval test, have 6400 mi on oil now, just been adding make up oil, will test again at 7500, hoping to go for 7500 then maybe 10K on dino oil if tests say oil is still safe for use.

Nope, didn't get around to it. I usually feel when it is time for an
oil to go, by the way the engine runs. Just extended intervals to about
5k miles. Using Ford filters on mine (13/16 I belive) http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif

Speaking of oil, any tips on replacing those pesky oil cooler lines? I
know the is a ~$120 hydralic lines setup out there, but I was thinking
AN stuff.

Actually there is a low buck fix that came out after I did the $$$ hose replacement mod; ain't that always the way, anyway consists of taking a dremel tool and CAREFULLY cutting off crimps, then using stainless hose clamps re-clamp hose to fittings, then using lock wireon one end twist around the body of the worm screw and other end around the hose about 2" below the clamp twist the wire to make a lokcing device so the clamp can't pull off under load.

Sounds pretty doable and certainly cheap, thanks.



GM should have issued a recall on those to begin with. Probably half of
the busted engines and 3/4s of the 6.5 myth have to do with loosing oil
thru those lines.