Hello All:


I just purchased a 2001 GMC Sierra crew cab shorty. It has a 2-piece driveshaft and the dreaded off the line shudder. My question is, is there a TSB or anything from GM stating that the problem exists and maybe a fix for it? I know the later model trucks have a 1 piece driveshaft and they do not have the shudder problem. Any info you may have would be appreciated.


Thanks,


Ryan

There is a TSB that involves replacing the two piece shaft with the one piece. It only applies to ext long and cc short boxes, wont do cc long box. The carrier bearing mount has to be completely cut out of the cross member in order to install shaft.

There is a TSB that involves replacing the two piece shaft with the one piece. It only applies to ext long and cc short boxes, wont do cc long box. The carrier bearing mount has to be completely cut out of the cross member in order to install shaft.








http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif

dmaxalliTech:


Do you have anymore info like a TSB number or a copy of it? My truck is obviously out of the factory bumper-to-bumper warranty, it just turned 90k miles today. It is driving me nuts and the dealer wanted nothing to do with it. They told me there was nothing, not even a TSB. Anymore info would be greatly appreciated.


Ryan


on edit:


I checked the TSB's page and there is a TSB regarding this subject but it says it is specifically for ex cab and crew cab LONG bed. There was nothing for short beds like you are speaking of


RyanEdited by: caroftheweek

Ryan,


I believe the TSB you are looking for is 01-04-17-001B (it applies to Extended Cab Long Box and Crew Cab Short Box trucks). There may be an updated number, but this is the number from my service records for my '02 CC SB.


Joe

couldn't you just get a driveshaft made, most just need to know what
ends to install and what length, either local or mail order. Most
places can make any driveshaft you want. $350-$400 would be my guess.

Are you guys saying if i try hard enough i can get my two-piece replaced with this tsb??? because the two dealers here just laugh at me when i asked about it. one piece is $800 stealer cost, $250 at 4-wheel shop in denver.

Correct me if i'm wrong but gm doesn't pay for TSB's right? Only recalls??

Joe Pool:


Did your dealer replace your driveshaft with this TSB? If so, was there a safety issue and that is why they replaced it or for other reasons? Thank you for the info. I would rather they (dealer) replace it even if it costs me alittle. Thanks everyone for your replys


Ryan

I hope you have an Allison because the TSB doesn't cover 6 speeds. Mine had a slight shudder that got worse when I added 2" blocks. I put a spacer in to lower the carrier brg and that cured it. Even with an Alli you may want to play around with a 1/2" spacer first. It may do the trick. The only problem is if you have 90K already and a shudder the carrier rubber is probably shot.

I have an alli with 4" blocks in the rear. I have shimmed the carrier bearing every which way and finally got the 65mph vibration mimimized, but the shudder is still there. local guys are messing around with angled shims on the rear blocks.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif i don't like the idea of stacking blocks and angle shims.


In my opinion the two piece needs to go. How can 3 u-joints compensate for the rear axle travel when only one of the three moves? even if you do get all the angles right when the truck is unloaded, the angles changes as soon as you load the back. I know there is more to it. but lets say you get the front half of the two piece shimmed to match the rear pinnion.(centerline angles match) the two aft u-joints should counter each other through the axle travel (if the rear axle travels up and down without rotating). you will still have a vaibration if the front half of the driveline is at too extreme of an angle from zero relative to the transfer case..........and adding blocks to this situation just makes it worse.


The tsb means to me that gm is thinking there is something wrong with the two piece.


I think most of my shudder is from a worn carrier brg. as jeli said, but before i order a aftermarket one-piece, does anyone know what the magic word is to get a one piece from the dealer without paying $800?

the magic word to get a driveshaft is "still with in 3/36"


TSB's are only covered items if truck is under warranty.

Ryan,


Yes, the dealer did replace my driveshaft under the TSB. It was replaced due to a severe shudder upon starting from a stop when pulling my trailer. The driveshaft took care of the problem.


Joe

Thanks for all of your replies. I just purchased the truck and it just turned 90k...so i guess i am out of luck for a free driveshaft. I am assuming that should check the carrier bearing and maybe switch that out to temperarily fix the problem? I guess that is all i can do. oh well, thanks again guys.


Ryan

I would feel better if there was a grease fitting there. Am I wrong on that idea?

the carrier bearing uses a sealed bearing pressed on to the driveshaft and is supported in the rubber webbing... The bearing is seldom the failed part, its usually the rubber webbing that fails and allows slop in there.

If someone was to replace the 2 piece driveshaft with a 1 piece . What is the GM part number for the 1 Piece driveshaft. I also get the starting off from a stop light shudder. Drives me nuts.
Mark

I Had Mine Replace Under Warranty, What A Differance!
Dealer Gave Me No Hassels, Just Said Ok.

I'm with BlackDMax, above, for replacing my two-piece with a one-piece shaft. P/N anyone? BTW, is the carrier bearing a big job to replace? Can I git-r-done myself, apart from using a press at a shop? TIA, BB.

We have a extended cab, short bed, with the 2 pc shaft. This is one that is not covered under the TSB, but started to shudder when starting from a stop pulling our 5th wheel. I found a very small amount of play in the rear u-joint, replaced it, and all is well. It was such a small amount of play that I missed it the first time I checked, but sure did cause a shudder.

This is only with the '99-01's, correct? If so, I assume they have corrected whatever the problem is for the 04 CC LB trucks (mine has a two piece)?

For anyone who wants to know. The GM part number for the one piece driveshaft is 15109384. However the cost is not cheap part cost is $782.02. I know someone who works for a dealership who can get it to me cheaper but is still expensive.

Go to a drive line shop they can make one for about 2 to 3 hundred dollars. Alot better than 800.00. Hell my 1810 drive shaft for my dumptruck was a little over 1200.00 that included tranny and differential yokes, two carrier bearings and all knew u-joints.

Does anybody know the critical speed for the stock diameters of the
driveshafts for the 3 different wheel bases? My guess is the stock
diameter in the CC will pass critical, especially if you have a speed limit
remover in an aftermarket tune.

It would be really cool to have a 5" carbon fiber 1-piece. There is a
place here in OC that can make them.