Hey guys,


I'm thinkin' about driving a 7500 with a 10 speed & dump bed. Seeing as how I don't have a clue about this stuff I have checked and there are no truck driving schools in my area...closest one is 2.5 hours. Anyways, I think I can pass a CDL just by readin' the book, but learning about air brakes and PTO hydraulics, well that's something else. Any ideas? Maybe just go do it or what? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif


JP

Heartbeat - Just be very careful when you hit the brakes the first time....Air brakes are nothing, and I can't stress this enough, NOTHING like hydraulic brakes...If you stomp on the pedal with air the way you would with hydro, have some salt on the steering wheel, because you're going to eat it http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gif Other than that, my best suggestion is to find a willing heavy truck driver to show you a few pointers about shifting and such....The main things about driving a heavy truck are the physical size of the truck and of course the air brakes...Let us know how you do!

Duno about your state but in IL you have to supply the truck and it has to have what ever you are taking the test for(if you want air brakes you gota have air brakes or a trailer if you are going for combo ect.)


Biggest thing durring the road test is all the backing and such especially with the trailer, and remembering all the stuff for the pre and post trip inspection. If one were to practice i would get as much practice backing with a trailer and driving one as possible. The shorter the trailer the better(more of a PITA to back) and try driving with just your side mirrors, dont look out the back window.


To quote speed "its just like driving a realy big pinto"http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gif


Just be aware and plan ahead for stops and such. Also if you have never driven a truck with a manual(I would try to get ahold of an auto for the test) its not like driving a vette with a 6 speed. After first you generaly arnt using your clutch. And if you screw up a shift it can be a PITA getting her into gear, losing speed double clutching trying to get her to slide into gear as you are blocking an intersection. Get good and practiced before you hit the driving test.


If you go online I remember there were lotsa places that had online practice written tests. Easy though......


Try to borrow a truck or get with somebody that has one to practice. In IL IIRC you can go get the written stuff done and then get your permit so you can practice and then go back and take the driving portion to get your CDL.


Peoria is a hell of a haul otherwise I would ask if you wanted to go cruising for chicks in one of the dumps.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley16.gif


I would try to get your air brake and combo endorsement and every other endorsement you can get(air brake and combo are the only things that requre a specific truck) so you can drive anything if you want/need.

That aint no sh*thttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif I dont drive anything with airbrakes often and when I dohttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gif First time will get your attentionhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gif

Thanks guys. I wanna start hauling gravel for extra income. The research I've been doing around town indicates that most gravel haulers are either single axles carrying 6 ton or tandem axles carrying 15 tons(give or take). Anyways, if my truck is rated for 33k then I can haul about 9 tons which is perfect for small jobs and driveways because alot of folks don't want a big tandem axle truck tearing up their property, plus I will get experience if I decide to upsize to a tandem or tri axle truck. I have tried to have some of the local guys give me some pointers, but to them I'm competition. So if it weren't for you guys here on the forum I would really be on my own. Keep the info coming. One other thing, I have found an International 8100 with a 280 horse Cummins and 10 speed with a brand new dump bed for $19900. This truck is rated at 33K and is in good condition. The kicker is that the engine has 600K miles on it....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif I have talked to the local Cummins shop here and they say this is a 850K to 1million mile motor. Should I think about it or run as fast as I can from it? I would save 30 grand (new 7500 is $49,000)and it would be less risk starting out...whadda ya think?


JPEdited by: Heartbeat Hauler

Heartbeat, keep in mind that if it's over 26k, you have to have a
CDL..I know you're talking about getting one, but just so you know....

Also, if you're crossing state lines, you'll need a medical card too..

As far as the binder goes (international) What year is the truck, and
what Cummins engine is it? L10,M11,C series, etc.....Also, one thing to
keep in mind....Heavy trucks do not age the same as light duty
trucks....I worked for freightliner for a few years in parts and I can
tell you first hand, a ten year old pick-up truck...no big deal..a ten
year old over the road truck is basically junk in the same amount of
time..

IL requires a medical card for 10001 up and a CDL for 26001 and up. every state is different. The secratary of state or dmv should have the cdl study book.


Definatly get your combination. A trailer and a skidsteer(very versitale) may be another thing to look at when you get a bit bigger. Also throwing a blade and or a under tailgate spreader(for salt) and do snow removal in the winter. Or talk to some contractors in the area and get on thier list for snow hauling.

Good advice all.


PartsGuy, The used truck I am considering is a '97 model and the engine is the M11. That's realy all I know about it now. The dealer said I could take it to a service shop or Cummins and they could check it out, they also guaranteed that it would pass DOT inspection and that I could take an oil sample for analysis (oil has not been changed for this very reason). I was aware of the medical card it's the same here in Indiana. I'm in good health and don't play with drugs or alcohol (does that make me dull?). Anyways, as much as I like the idea of saving 30 grand by buying a used rig, that 600K is bothering me some. I'm not figuring on a bunch of miles per year, maybe 30 - 35K.


I also like the idea of the snow hauling I never even considered that side of it. It would help not being down all winter. I appreciate all of the insight and the willingness to share your experiences.


Thanks,
JP

Snow hauling generaly dosnt happen much.....generally just blizzard or a long heavy winter. generaly get a premium for it. need a place to dump it at though unless this is worked out with the contractor. If your going to spread salt you will either need to use the contractos salt or what ever or need a place to keep it and prerably a building to store the truck in.


Edit: I cant stress enough the crap that happens and what it does to buissness if you cant deliver. Its nice when 1/2 the county is outa salt and all they are giving it to is municiples and you are sitting on a pile of it with all your customers happy and the other guys have skating rinks. Guess who gets the call next year? All it takes is a really bad/cold winter especially for us since it comes in by barge.


With a bobcat or the like especially if you have a place to dump the fill and concrete demoing drives and such and doing the prep work for a finisher can be pretty good $$$. A bucket and a pair of forks and maybe a hydrahammer, out it comes into your truck, base is probably good enough but maybe bring in some aditional base and smear it around. And doing excavation, snow stuff with the bobcat in the winter. A harley rake is great. Its nice if you are in well with alot of different contractors, like septic and plumbers, concreet guys, ect. Skid steers are extremely versitle. Edited by: ratlover

Heartbeat - While I am by no means a cummins guy (I hated looking up parts for them (cat sucked too, btw) the M11 is generally a decent motor...Underpowered for an over-the-road truck, but should be fine for a dump truck...If you do get it, make sure you write down the engine serial number AND the cpl (controled parts listing) number..(both of these numbers are on the tag on the engine, either on the block or valve cover...If you ever need an injector, turbo, hell even a thermostat, you need the cpl number to get the right part from cummins.


It sounds like a decent truck, but you might want to look through a truck trader or two (you can find these at almost any truck stop) and see what a rig like that is going for at the other local dealers...


Like rat said, with a rig like that, a trailer, skidsteer, and a little ambition, you'll probably have more work than you can handle..Edited by: partsguy662

Very cool. I will take that into consideration. Thanks again all.


JP

I will sell you my old '85 dump 33K GVW with a L10, RoadRanger and 200K on the odometer for 8,000. I don't need it any more.

I will sell you my old '85 dump 33K GVW with a L10, RoadRanger and 200K on the odometer for 8,000. I don't need it any more.




Hmmm. Very tempting, but isn't White Oak up around Pittsburg? Sort of a haul to get there and back. My mom lives in Morgantown, WV and from here to there is about 9 hours, then another 2 hours to you. I think I'll keep looking locally. Just for the record though, what are the specs on the L10? And, is the rest of the truck in good condition?


JP

Heartbeat - The M11 replaced the L10......I forget what year that happened...

I will sell you my old '85
dump 33K GVW with a L10, RoadRanger and 200K on the odometer for 8,000.
I don't need it any more.




Hmmm. Very tempting, but isn't White Oak up around Pittsburg? Sort
of a haul to get there and back. My mom lives in Morgantown, WV and
from here to there is about 9 hours, then another 2 hours to you.
I think I'll keep looking locally. Just for the record
though, what are the specs on the L10? And, is the rest of the truck in
good condition?


JP



Mine is only rated at 240HP but that has been enough. Body is fair.
Tires fair. Mechanical, good. It is an older truck that has worked for
a living, as have most. My point is that there are better/cheaper
starter trucks. Make your mistakes on an older truck and work your way
up. As a newby, you are also better being a little under powered.
Forces you to be conservative.



White Oak is SE of Pittsburgh and takes about 9 hours from central IN.
Truck is governed to 55 MPH so It would take a little longer to get
back.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif



The L10's and M11's overlapped. Mostly because of the backorder from
the metro transit busses that used them. The L10s were rated from about
220 up through 350 HP. (300 was top Factory HP I think.) Only changes
were the injector pump and tubo. The BIG CAMS were considered hot rods.
At least as far as these hulks are concerned.

Fingers,


I am beginning to see that a used vehicle may be the way to go just starting out. But I am finding some really good deals on '04 left overs. I like the idea of warranty and no mechanical problems for awhile.


I'm in SE Indiana and an 11 hour trip at 55 would be rough.....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif


Thanks though for the advice and info. I'm gonna be out for about a week then start getttin' serious about what to do. I'll post as I go hopefully things will go well.


Later,
JP

As an owner-operator you need to learn about your truck. Best way is fixing it.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gif
But really, it just is not cost effective to buy a brand new truck. The
payments will bury you the first time the jobs get a little scarce.
Your choces. G'luck.