Ok, this is my first post and I am almost certain that my PMD is going to completely die out soon. HOWEVER, I would like to be able to TEST it first. I have not yet seen a post involving the actual testing of it. Is that possible for someone at home or am I stuck calling Mr. Goodwrench to save me? Having been an automotive technician for nearly ten years I am finding some stress in not having a shop to work in anymore. I am sure that i will be spending $400 soon on a replacement but I just want to make sure before I do it. Also, has anyone come up with a way to bypass it? I am guessing not yet.

There is no real test for a PMD and it doesn't throw any codes when it croaks. It's usually a matter of symptoms and eliminating all the smaller things before you shell out the cash for a new one.

Give us some info on your truck (fill out your signature) and give us some symptoms on what is happening.

Dave

To add to the previous post. Tell us where you live. Someone near you might just have a spare PMD to loan you for a test. The only test is replace and see if it fixes it. I just happen to have a couple here in Northeast Ohio.
Ted

lets see if this will also help him.:)
Hello and :welcome2: to the forum.

Check this info out here and post back.

Look here-> GM 6.5 Reference Matieral & FAQ's (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53309)<-Look here
Welcome New Forum Member (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19063)*** 6.5 Diagnostic Checklist (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42248)
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°Please include your vehicle details in your signature line (http://dieselplace.com/forum/profile.php?do=editsignature). Did you read the FAQ's and search before posting? Post your results after fixing your rig, we all learn from each other!

like already stated the only test is another PMD and you can't bypass it because it controls the fuel delivery. IE no PMD no fuel.

ok, this is my first post and i am almost certain that my pmd is going to completely die out soon. However, i would like to be able to test it first. I have not yet seen a post involving the actual testing of it. Is that possible for someone at home or am i stuck calling mr. Goodwrench to save me? having been an automotive technician for nearly ten years i am finding some stress in not having a shop to work in anymore. I am sure that i will be spending $400 soon on a replacement but i just want to make sure before i do it. Also, has anyone come up with a way to bypass it? i am guessing not yet.
DON'T CALL mr.goodwrench he can't help you.

In another PMD thread someone suggested this -

If the engine won't start soon after a hot shut-down, pour a quart of water on the PMD and try again. If it starts, the PMD is bad.

Sixto
97 C2500 burb

In another PMD thread someone suggested this -

If the engine won't start soon after a hot shut-down, pour a quart of water on the PMD and try again. If it starts, the PMD is bad.

Sixto
97 C2500 burb

Nope. That works fairly often, but it isn't a definitive test, 'cause it doesn't always work. There are other thermal factors involved, and the state of deterioration of the PMD is always a wildcard.

Good thought, though. It would be sweet if we had a definitive test, but we don't.

In another PMD thread someone suggested this -

If the engine won't start soon after a hot shut-down, pour a quart of water on the PMD and try again. If it starts, the PMD is bad.

Sixto
97 C2500 burb

More applicable to the mechanical IP'd 6.5s ours with lek-tron-ik IPs don't get much warning other than intermittent operation, we have some trouble shooting for other things that give similar symptoms, do those first as new PMD won't fix a bad lift pump, OPS, gnds, batts, plus are an expensive piece of hardware to guess about. Do the dignostic list check then report back how you make out.

Oh LuV My 6.5

welcome to the site :welcome2:

take a minute to fill out your signature line with truck info

OK, updated signature. I was hoping for a test but I may have to suck it up and shell out the cash. I changed the OPS today but i think i shorted out my auxiliary battery relay in the process. It just keeps getting better. If I could get past chasing the problems I could get on with adding the goodies. If and when I change my PMD I am hoping the #9 resistor will net me a little more power. Well, I will have to keep yall posted on how things turn out.

BTW, does anyone have a wiring diagram or know where I can find one?

Thanks

Welcome to The Diesel Place!! Luvmy65.

. If I could get past chasing the problems I could get on with adding the goodies. If and when I change my PMD I am hoping the #9 resistor will net me a little more power. Well, I will have to keep yall posted on how things turn out.

BTW, does anyone have a wiring diagram or know where I can find one?

Thanks

Haynes manual has limited wiring diagrams, subscription to All-Data DIY (web tech support site) would be a good investment since manual for your year is becoming rare, the best reference is www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com) who is the publisher of the GM factory manual, look on albris, ebay, amazon, etc. for surplus GM manuals, be careful of some cd manuals you see on the web, may be a poor copy of GM manual or military manual for mechanical IPd 6.2 & 6.5 (good reference material) but not best for your civilian 6.5

Go through the troubleshooting list to get you back to good baseline running condition before going with mods, grounds are life blood of the lek-tron-ick "fly by wire" 6.5 or any modern puter controlled vee-hickle"

I like your "if & when" thought on PMD, thanks I needed that refreshing bit of humor :p: word up dude if you have the coins, put in a order for a Heath remote mout kit with new driver tomorrow when they open.

Stanadyne just upped their prices they may still have some at the old price, tell them you are a member here & saw it here might get you a break, but even if you have to pay for one at new price, for next 7 yrs that is one item you won't be needing to worry over having to pay for if it does take a dump again.

Upping to a nr 9 resistor may or may not give you much if any gain, here is why, it is a calibration resistor, used to allow a tech at time of mfr or overhaul when IP is on test bench ability to meet the test spec "window" for delivered fuel. A new "tight pump" may need a 1-4 for less fuel to be on spec, remember a nr5 is 0mm delivery change to a 6-9 can give up to a max of +4 mm with a nr 9 on a HEALTHY in spec IP, how worn is yours will determine if you will get much benefit from upping the number, also is lift pump full strength, or injectors "tight"

I'm not saying to not do the nr 9 thing, just don't get your hopes up that it will net a lot of change for you so may not be worth "shopping for one" to get "more power", FWIW I run a nr7 as supplied in my Heath remote mount.

Thanks Doc! I just got a subscription to All Data. It does not have all of the info, but it is pretty complete. I will still need a factory service manual but it can wait a little longer.