We have a 2001 International 4700 with the Dt466.

The cooling sytem has been gone through but it is still having overheating problems. Does anybody know of any fixes or a better radiator design than this 1/2 of a radiator crap.

I read about a baffle for the charge air cooler does this really help?

The cooling sytems in these trucks were marginal at best and I feel we need to upgrade it somehowe to make this problem go away.

These are the LLY's of medium duty trucks

any help would be greatly appreciated

We have a 2001 International 4700 with the Dt466.

The cooling sytem has been gone through but it is still having overheating problems. Does anybody know of any fixes or a better radiator design than this 1/2 of a radiator crap.

I read about a baffle for the charge air cooler does this really help?

The cooling sytems in these trucks were marginal at best and I feel we need to upgrade it somehowe to make this problem go away.

These are the LLY's of medium duty trucks

any help would be greatly appreciated
are your egt's high.was the thermostat replaced.
what coolant was installed,green or elc=red,purple
for the t444e=7.3,not suposed to use elc till 1999.there is an anti cavitation additive for green,not sayin that's your problem,just tryin to help narrow it down.has it always been a hot runner?

The Egt gauge is mounted post turbo but neve get past 800.
The thermostat has been replaced a month ago
the coolant is Rotella ELC

We bought the truck used it has always been a hot runner the head gasket was replaced as well

The Egt gauge is mounted post turbo but neve get past 800.
The thermostat has been replaced a month ago
the coolant is Rotella ELC

We bought the truck used it has always been a hot runner the head gasket was replaced as well
pre turbo would be prefered.i really don't have much help to offer.do you ever loose any coolant?
does it run hot always,even in the winter mornings i see your in arizona,i know it gets cold there.does truck ever run with no or minimal load? does it matter or make any difference.how does it do pullin the grades in the desert.while i am typeing i remember that i am useing an ih thermostat in my 7.3,its a 203 degree.maybe they have different temp thermostat's.you could have the coolant analized for combustion gases. call ih service and ask if there is a special proceedure to bleed coolant system,a little air can over heat easy.i hope its an easy one to fix,or cure.??? have you checked the fan clutch?? and one last thought,does it run cooler with the a/c on,and does it have an extra fan for the a/c system."is the air always on",on cars in a drive thru,it does cool them down to run the a/c because of the extra fan.been there 96 z28!it was a hot runner! have you turned up the pump,i don't know if your mechanical or electronic
but if timming is too far advanced it will over heat easy.food for thouhgt.

If you bought it used you probably don't have repair history. If you do check and see if the water pump ws replaced recently. Either way, removed the water pump, very easy to do, and check the rear half of the front cover where the water pump goes. This is a common problem when a water pump bearing fails the impeller on the water pump eats out the flat aluminum boss on the rear half of the front cover. This causes low block pressure and poor cooling. If it has ate up the rear half it needs replaced and that will fix your problem. Another thing to look for is make sure it is not collapsing the lower rad hose when the engine is up to temp and running, I've seen this on a few dt's.

I would check Water pump also blow any thing out of the charge air and cooling fins. Also check to see if they all smashed and bent that makes a difference sometimes. Also try changing the fan to somthing that moves more air. I run DT 466 right up 1050-1100 EGT and never had too much of a problem but its also intercooled so that makes big difference

Thought of one more thing, does it have a viscous fan drive on it or air operated. If it's viscous run the engine and get it hot, pop the hood and check and see if the fan is locked up or turns freely. If it turns freely, replace it. I've seen a ton of these fail especially on hpv models

i hate to ask but how do you know its getting hot. just the gauge or what other things?

i hate to ask but how do you know its getting hot. just the gauge or what other things?


Very good question, might want to make sure it's actually getting hot first. Use a infared temp gun and shoot the t-stat housing and upper rad hose, they should be the same temp indicating the t-stat is open. Next shoot the radiator inlet and outlet, should see no less than a 10 degree difference indicating the rad is cooling properly. Just curious but what temp is getting up to?

i worked on an early eighties kodiak with a 3208 cat that was in warrenty getting passed around like a hot spud. cat said wasn't there problem because it wasn't really getting hot. gm pointed it to cat and around and around ended up going thru our shop senior mech. couldn't figure it out . so they just said drive it. anyway i was servicing the truck and noticed during the test drive the temp going up then i turned on the headlights and notice it didn't rise much so i turned on the heater fan wide open with heat temp on cold and it went down more. brought it back to shop and it was running somthing like 19 or twenty volts . gauges couldn't compensate for that much overcharging . changed voltage reg in alt all ok no overheat . by the way i was 20 at the time and the senior mech got the credit in the bulleton that got sent out.

the fan clutch is viscous and new and comes on pretty strong.

it only overheats on the hills

The overheat light comes on on the dash and the aftermarket gauge reads the same temp as the dash gauge. about 240

It is intercooled which I'm not sure if thats a good thing since the radiator is half the size it should be because of the intercooler. We have a old junk 4600 with a 7.3 non turbo and the radiator is ginormous and looks like it will bolt up I'll just have to figure out a new intercooler

the fan clutch is viscous and new and comes on pretty strong.

it only overheats on the hills

The overheat light comes on on the dash and the aftermarket gauge reads the same temp as the dash gauge. about 240

It is intercooled which I'm not sure if thats a good thing since the radiator is half the size it should be because of the intercooler. We have a old junk 4600 with a 7.3 non turbo and the radiator is ginormous and looks like it will bolt up I'll just have to figure out a new intercooler
yes 7.3 radiators are huge,i never hear of overheating problems related to radiator,mine holds 8 gallons.it sounds like you unnderstand what to do,but egt's are a big part of overall heat build up in engine,it will even heat up the trans "automatic".you do not have room to do a stack-intercooler in front of radiator,like most all other diesels?does your truck have an auxillary fan?if not try the biggest,highest cfm fan you can,i hope you have a/c!if you have a/c you should have auxillary fan,or is that small size also.but you pretty much got it figured out egt's,compressed air temp after intercooler,and fan!! last resort,you could get a snows water injection kit,thats really what it for, extra intercooler,water only and your safe.if you have no other heat problems that pullin hills i would go snows,
stacked if you can on the rad and intercooler,then you might not need snow.big aux fan in front as a pusher fan will help for sure.

how fast would the water injection go through water. I am wondering if I could just remove the intecooler and put in a 7.3 radiator and run water injection

how fast would the water injection go through water. I am wondering if I could just remove the intecooler and put in a 7.3 radiator and run water injection
ya,you can,but intercooler would be nice to have,do you not have room.you can get larger water tanks,8gallons,that may last a tank of diesel if you inject heavy dose of water

I would look into getting a radiator with more cores in it. You would have to pull a cap off of yours and see how many cores it has.