wiring diagram of lift pump [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: wiring diagram of lift pump


fredw
10-19-2004, 08:13 AM
is their a consenus to what fuse or relay and where that might be for the lift pump install. looks to be where power would be only after startup, or would it be to the first position of the keyhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif, thanks all, want to finsh this project off today

big_jon00
10-19-2004, 09:39 AM
Edited by: big_jon00

big_jon00
10-19-2004, 09:43 AM
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Go to you oil cooler and take out one of the allen head plugs there in there tight. I don't remember the exact size I think it might be 3/4 or 1/2" then go to an auto parts store get an oil pressure switch for 1/4" ntp and get the adapter for the plug to the 1/4ntp. Radio shack has a 30 amp automotive relay for under $10 then get a push button switch or a toggle and and wire it into the cab to by pass the oil pressure switch for priming.
If you run two seperate wires one for the relay and one for the oil pressure switch. You'll have the relay for the fuel pump (30 amps) and then oil pressure switches are good for 15 amps, you can tap into that for other toys that you put on that should only run when the truck is running...


Jon</TD></TR></T></TABLE></TD></TR>
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chuntag95
10-19-2004, 12:09 PM
I ran my main power through an oil pressure switch as descibed above. I also have a timer I am going to install that will turn the pump on for 15 seconds on initial key on. That allows the pump to build pressure w/o the oil pressure being up at start, but keeps if from staying on if the engine shuts down. I also have the switch at the front of the truck for fuel filter bleeding. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley20.gif

big_jon00
10-19-2004, 12:24 PM
The thing to remember as far as start up is that I have found that it starts just as fast with the lift pump as it does without. That fuel filter in under the hood is always full now. I haven't had a problem, and the pump is running as soon as the rpm needle comes up. I have tried priming the system after sitting for a few days and it doesn't seem to make it start any either.


Jon

fredw
10-19-2004, 01:27 PM
i just ran over to napa jon, they have a oil presure sending unit that he says when their is enought oil pressure it will send a signal for a light or something, it is for a older style chev gas, i am not sure if the pressure to turn it on is right, and are you saying to tie in on the top of the cooler with a tee to the exsiting hose connection, http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif thanks

big_jon00
10-19-2004, 02:04 PM
I don't remember what the one i got was but it think it ended up being for like a 77' gm it just has two terminoles on it really simple and small. It will work as long as there is pressure there I don't know what the mininmum is, 10psi maybe?


Where I put mine was if your under the truck and follow the oil filter up to the side of the block there are allen head plugs in that square looking block with like cast lines in it. The one that I used was the one you can see if you pull up the inner fender wall on the drivers side. If you have allens wrenchs for a 3/8" drive just get a little braker bar on there and make sure your going the right way and give it a good hit. Factory uses looks like red lock tight to hold it in.


You can go to home depot or a hardware store to pick up an adapter that size to the 1/4" ntp thread, they make them for black pipe or in brass. Depending what you are running for a lift pump as long as it isn't over 10 amps I would say you would be safe running it right off the oil pressure switch. I ran a relay on mine because I have the FM100 running all the time and then a holley red for now, as an additional fuel pump I have never had a gauge on it, I only run the holley when really getting into it. Just make sure you get a fuse in there.


I can try to get a pic on later today when I get home around 3pm central time.


Jon

fredw
10-19-2004, 02:14 PM
thanks, i have the holley red as well, starting to make more sense to me now

big_jon00
10-19-2004, 03:33 PM
Here are some pics:


The one with the pink wire end is for the oil temp gauge. The other one you see with the black wire covering is the oil pressure switch. Either of these locations will work. FYI don't put teflon tape on the fitting going into the alluminum bad things will happen!!


The oil is from when the torque converter decided to go out. The new ATS tripple lock should take care of that. The cam just really picked it uphttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif


This pic was taken from under the truck. The wire isn't as close to the manifold as it appears to be in this pic either.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/bigjon00/2004-10-19_122907_Duramax_027.jpg





Here is a pic of the lift pumps not all cleaned up yet from the install thats this weekends project, time allowing.





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/bigjon00/2004-10-19_123010_Duramax_028.jpg

big_jon00
10-19-2004, 03:36 PM
If your using a holley pump I have found if you can get a hold of a 3/8" NPT tap take the bottem off the pump and clean the threads out as far as you can get the tap in. This really helps prevent it from leaking like they always do.


The holley seem to be known for not lasting too long with diesel.. When they go out they don't flow through so, you might want to put some type of by-pass so you can at least get back home... If it goes out.


JonEdited by: big_jon00

fredw
10-19-2004, 07:46 PM
thanks jon, nice pictures of your set up, i will hook it up threw your directions. i finished the hardware mods on the pump, i installed a one way valve or check valve(1/2") as well and a switch inside the truck to shut it off when not needed, seams to be a good solid 200 dollar setup, thanks for your helphttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley18.gif

a64pilot
10-20-2004, 08:01 AM
FYI don't put teflon tape on the fitting going into the alluminum bad things will happen!!


What will happen? I know the FAA has recently said not to use it on fuel lines because some of it may come loose in the line, but what happens with aluminum?

big_jon00
10-20-2004, 10:23 AM
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Well, lets just say that where those plugs screw in there isn't much for sidewalls. It'll most likey spilt or crack the hosing. I think it is like a $400 part or so.... Just get it good and tight and it won't leak at least with the brass fittings I have used. If the valve comes out when you pull the plug just make sure it goes in the same way it comes out it not under much or any pressure but it can make it's way out and catch you off gaurd if you'r not ready for it.


Jon</TD></TR>
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