I am considering the Roadmaster rear swaybar, looking for feedback or suggestions
Thanks
Ron

Frederico seems to be the aftermarket sway bar of choice around here. Looking at the online pics of the two kits, I'd say I like the axle tube mounts better on the Frederico unit. The Roadmaster seems to have a simpler/sturdier end link design, but you have to drill the frame. Both are 4140 chromoly.

As much as I'd like the extra stability, I can't bring myself to install one on the back end as low as they hang. It'd get bent or ripped off altogether the first time in the woods, seems to me.

I do know they hang down below the axle slightly, I do not off raod much at all. I am looking for stability in hauling my fifth wheel around.
Thanks
Ron

Frederico seems to be the aftermarket sway bar of choice around here. Looking at the online pics of the two kits, I'd say I like the axle tube mounts better on the Frederico unit. The Roadmaster seems to have a simpler/sturdier end link design, but you have to drill the frame. Both are 4140 chromoly.

As much as I'd like the extra stability, I can't bring myself to install one on the back end as low as they hang. It'd get bent or ripped off altogether the first time in the woods, seems to me.

Thats why we would mount yours on top of the axle like this. :)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m16/tf-ent/aboveaxle1.jpg

I've been running the Frederico bars (front & rear) towing for almost a year now. I like them. Just my 2 cents.

If you mean the Roadmaster active suspension spring kits that mount on top of the leaf springs than I can give you some feedback. I run them on my LLY tow rig and I have good luck with them. They help with towing stability and definitely beef up the softer spring packs on the 2005 truck compared to my 2002. I would buy them again.

I misunderstood...I thought you were talking about swaybars.

I actually have the Roadmaster Active Suspension on my Suburban. It definitely helps.

Thats why we would mount yours on top of the axle like this. :)

Helpful to know! Thanks. ;) Put that baby up on your website, 'cause I imagine there are other guys with the same concern.

Thats why we would mount yours on top of the axle like this. :)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m16/tf-ent/aboveaxle1.jpg (http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m16/tf-ent/aboveaxle1.jpg)
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)



Hey Tom....What do I need to mount my swaybars like this?

Hey Tom....What do I need to mount my swaybars like this?

Nothing except what you already have. Just move the bar to the top side of the axle. This will only work on a lifted application. The best way to tell if this will work for your application is to see if you are using the threads at the bottom of the endlink rather than at the top. Moving the sway bar to the top of the axle subtracts 4" from the endlink.

If you wish shoot me a photo of your current set-up and I will tell you if this will work for you.

It is not necessary to move the bar for additional clearance since the lowest point on/of the rear end is the bottom of the pumpkin and the bars are mounted above that point.

Ever thought of trying an adjustable end link so those of us who aren't lifted could use this configuration? I know the pumpkin is the lowest-hanging thing, but one upturned rock or thick branch would bend or break those u-bolts on the sway bar mount or even the end link hardware without much trouble, especially if you hit it while at full suspension flex. Guess I could cut the end links down and re-thread them, too.

Ever thought of trying an adjustable end link so those of us who aren't lifted could use this configuration? I know the pumpkin is the lowest-hanging thing, but one upturned rock or thick branch would bend or break those u-bolts on the sway bar mount or even the end link hardware without much trouble, especially if you hit it while at full suspension flex. Guess I could cut the end links down and re-thread them, too.

The new sway bar kit will be adjustable in two ways. First will be in the strength of the bar. Adjustments will be fore and aft at the end of the bar. Second we will be using a tubular or barrel adjustable endlink as you have suggested. It will offer both strength and adjustability to the system.

See the photos below.

Adjustable Endlink

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m16/tf-ent/Sway%20Bars/Final%20Fitting%20New%20Rear%202500HD%20bar/FinalFit05.jpg



Adjustable Sway Bar

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m16/tf-ent/Sway%20Bars/Final%20Fitting%20New%20Rear%202500HD%20bar/06-07/rear01.jpg

There are some sway bars in the for sale section. See TOPHOG!

Nothing except what you already have. Just move the bar to the top side of the axle. This will only work on a lifted application. The best way to tell if this will work for your application is to see if you are using the threads at the bottom of the endlink rather than at the top. Moving the sway bar to the top of the axle subtracts 4" from the endlink.

If you wish shoot me a photo of your current set-up and I will tell you if this will work for you.

It is not necessary to move the bar for additional clearance since the lowest point on/of the rear end is the bottom of the pumpkin and the bars are mounted above that point.

I have no photos of the current setup. It looks exactly like the pictures on your website. I am using the bottom third of the endlink. If I moved the swaybar up on top of the axle tube couldn't I just add threads to the end link?
I do not have a lifted truck.

I have no photos of the current setup. It looks exactly like the pictures on your website. I am using the bottom third of the endlink. If I moved the swaybar up on top of the axle tube couldn't I just add threads to the end link?
I do not have a lifted truck.

It is not difficult to relocate the bar to the top of the axle tube to try it.

Yes you can add threads to the endlink. Keep us posted:)