I can't get my Burb running again. I finally just got everything put back together and it won't start. Plenty of fuel getting to the IP, but no fuel is getting to the injectors on the drivers side. What is going on here? I assume fuel is getting to the passenger side because it is leaking out of the exhaust manifold once it gets flooded. Can some body please save me from this nightmare? I have worked on this thing for weeks, and I am exhausted. I need help fixing this thing quick, or I am going to donate it to charity.


Thanks,


John

Refresh my memory, what exactly did you do to this truck?


Leaking out the exhaust manifold? FUEL? I don't think so, maybe on top of it. Got a scanner handy?

By the way, if you do decide to give it up to charity, I'll take it ;)

Diesels get flooded?


I don't know what's wrong can you elaborate further, John?

The Burb will not start. If I pull teh fuel lines on the drivers side nothing comes out. I replaced both head gaskets, which ment I removed the injector lines. Can there be air in the lines? Honestly, I am so sick of this thing. If I ever get it running again I am driving straight to the dealership to trade it in.

I would disconnect the fuel line feeding the IP ( it enters at a 45 degree angle) and put something under the disconnected fuel line, turn the motor over and see if diesel comes out the hose.

The injector lines should have followed the firing order from the top drivers side around.87265431


8 then 7,


1 &nbsp ; 2


3 &nbsp ; 6


4 then 5 Edited by: quantum mechanic

Is there any way to jump the IP, simular to how you can jump the lift pump? Is there an IP relay that could be burnt out?





Thanks QM for the firing oder diagram. The intake manifold is back on now, so I can' really check, but I am pretty confident I hooked all the fuel lines back up correctly. I never had them all off at the same time, and do to their unique lengths and shapes, it is pretty hard to mix them up.


One other thing, both my batteries are pretty dead, and I was trying to jump start it. Can you jump start these things? It would give it enough juice to crank, but I wonder if it needs two strong batteries in order to fire?Edited by: Juancho

need enough juice to turn the motor over, keep the PCM functioning and run the FSol and ESO on the pump.


I'm concerned about the leak on the pass side. its impossible for the pump to pump to 4 cylinders only. If you have an external leak on the manifold I'm worried that it might be coolant.


There is a fuse for the FSol, better to be safe and check ALL the fuses. It can take a couple minutes of cranking to get air out of the lines, but you should see bubble out of the lines in just a few seconds.

While your checking fuses, check your grounds too, two heavy ones from each battery to the manifold, 3 small wires close to the firewall.


Check the wires to the Crank Sensor and Optic Sensor, missing one of those will put you in extended crank mode, meaning you have to turn the engine over for about 20 sec before it will even try to start.

I will go down to Wallys World and get a new set of batteries. At this point I really can't think of anything else it could possibly be.

The heads could have been hairline cracked and you missed it. it's best to have them bench tested.

New batteries did no good. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif


Crank and crnks and cranks and doesn't even attemp to fire. Glow Plug light cycles off, then comes back on when cranking. All conections and wire are good. Has to be a problem with the IP. It isn't supplying fuel to the injectors. Plenty of fuel is getting to the pump.





I installed new injectors and glow plugs when I replaced the head gaskets. why wont this thing fire?Edited by: Juancho

Try to get it started on starting fluid. First discnect the G P relay the try it. I have some success with the 24 valves this way. Dont use to much because 6.5 are pron to ether lock.

Do you have a scanner Juancho? Watch for missed Cam/Crank Pulses, try disconnecting optic sensor, did you check the fuses? You said the the IP is getting fuel supply, check to see if there's fuel coming out of the return with the truck cranking. If not, unscrew the ESO solenoid on top, and pull the plunger out of the bottom of it, its just held in by a snap ring, removing this will rule out ESO being the problem, just replace it and make sure the big spring goes back under it.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

TDG,





How do I disconnect the Optical Sensor? Also, is the ESO Solenoid the cylidrical thing on top of the IP?

unplug the 6 wire plug at the top of the pump. and yes, the ESO is the big tall cylinder. diagonal cutters is all you need to pry the actuator out, pull the snapring out with pliers and replace the hollow ESO.

Just my .02...I've learned to check the little stuff first...fuses, the little red reset button in the fuse box, although I believe this would kill the lift pump too. Did you identify the fluid leak on the one side, or where it's coming from??


I'm not trying to insult...It's just that I see people turn in a military HUMMVEE because it wont start. All the mechanic does is put it in Neutral...and what do you know!!

hey, I've seen the Neutral safety switch get a couple of people like that on some M998s as well.

Tried it in nuetral too. I wonder if my glow plugs are not working. the light keeps flickering on and off every once in while when I am cranking. How do I try and start it with starter fluid?

glowplugs and starter fluid won't help until you get fuel.

Well, I pulled the return line off on the drivers side, and although o fuel came out when when I cranked the engine, I could see that there was a small amount of diesel in the line. So now I am not too sure about the fuel issue. Where is the Glow Plug Relay located?

can't you crack an injector line and see if it leaks diesel when you crank it? It sounds like your CPS got unplugged.

Glowplug relay is against the firewall, behind the fuel filter base.


Pulling that return while cranking the engine should have got something really wet, IP returns a lot of fuel IF fuel is getting to it.

Have you tried opening the bleed on the top of fuel filter with lift pump running, got fuel there? next crack the lines at the injectors, and crank engine over. this should bleed the air from the injection lines. Tighten eveything up you shoud now have fuel OR you shuld know where the fuel isn't getting too.

Try reading the codes and see what comes up. See if it spits out a whole bunch of mess, or something like CPS. (Although the CPS tends to spit out a whole bunch of other mess too unrelated) Gotta be one of those silly things that make you pull your hair out. Just did it myself . . . spent 10 hours working on something, that turned out to be a simple wire.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley7.gif

Thanks Everyone for your help. Unpluging the Optical sensor on top of the IP did the trick. It must have reset somethiing in the IP. After I started it that way, I plugged teh sensor back in, and presto it works!


No my only problem is, I think the bran new head gaskets I just put in are leaking. The problem is, my head gaskets failed so badly before, that there was coolant everywhere, so the milky oil I now have may just be over moisture from before. I will chnage teh oil and filter tomorrow. Wish me luck. At least now I can get it to teh dealer lot to trade it in.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif

Good luck.

I replaced head gaskets on a car a while back. Drove it around the block once, it was still smoking as before. In my haste and disgust I sold it to a neighbor who had a mechanic friend .........While he was driving it to him it stopped smoking, seemed that glycol was everywhere and it took a while to burn it all off. 5 years later he was still driving with no problems. You've put a lot of BST (slood sweat tears) into this, drive it a while. It seems you've already replaced AC Comp. and a bunch of other stuff that goes. I'd just hate to see someone else repeat the rewards of your labor and $$. Edited by: veggiesuburban

Thanks everyone for your support. Here is my dilemma; I am way too personally invested in this thing to make any kind of rational decision deciding its fate. So I will call upon you guys to help me. Here is the short skinny. So far I have replaced both head gaskets, A/C Compressor, Lift Pump, Serpentine belt, Alternator, Several different relays, Injectors, Glow Plugs and the exhaust. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><O:P></O:P>
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After driving it for about 10 minutes last night, I had milky oil, and it smokes like it is still burning antifreeze. There is also, a good deal of blow by coming from the oil dipstick tube. I have no doubt that there is residual moisture in the system which could explain the milky oil, and smoke. After all my entire crankcase was filled with antifreeze when the head gaskets blew, and the turbo was turned into water pump. Other than the milky oil and smoke, I can see no other signs of coolant problems. There are no bubbles in the coolant reservoir when the truck is running, and the upper radiator hose stays nice and soft. It is still a little too early to tell if the coolant level is going down.<O:P></O:P>
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Also, now that I have put a straight exhaust in, I am not sure whether I will be able to pass emissions. So what do you guys think? Keep it, or sell it? What has been your experience?


I just remebered a couple other things I have bought for the rig. I bought a new door handle, two new batteries, and new battery ground cables. Aslo, one last thing, it now starts and runs great. The new exhaust gives it gobbs of power.Edited by: Juancho

Keep changing the oil and driving it and see if it looses coolant. time will tell.

John,


I know the suspense is killing you but don't drive with milky oil, you need to drain &amp; flush until it's not milky any more don't forget that your oil cooler will have "contaminated" oil in it.


For what you are doing right now I'd get some Wal Mart brand or generic equivalent 15-40 oil, and some cheap filters and drain &amp; dump until it stops being milky with engine at idle in the drive way. It will take a long time for the milk to get out of the oil just driving it, also the coolant can gum up the rings and stick them so the can't seal.


As for the emissions check, what kind of check do they do a a Diesel, most have just a visual equipment check, if so post in the wanted section looking for a Cat, that can be gutted and modified to pass a pipe thru the shell; outside it looks like a cat even tough inside it's free flowing.


As to whether or not keeping it, your call no best answer, what are you going to use the truck for, a lot of towing where higher mpg of the Diesel will make it worth the effort, sheer "fun" of owning a Diesel, then keep it. Occasional hauler maybe a gasser might be a better match for you. It's a tough call, maybe do a pro &amp; con check list see how it all pans out.Edited by: Turbine Doc

Thanks Turbine Doc. I am not running it with milky oil. I just bought the cheapest oil I could find, and I am going to change it tonight. Afterwards I will drive it for about 10 minutes and then check it and probably drain it again, and do the same thing tomorrow. I am just hoping it will clear up after a couple more changes.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><O:P></O:P>


I am pretty confident it will. The only other thing I know of that causes milky oil, is a cracked block, and I inspected the block very thoroughly when I pulled the heads. Everything looked great.<O:P></O:P>


Honestly, I am more concerned with the smoke. I just hope it stops soon; otherwise I am burning coolant for sure. However, I thought the fact I could not see any bubbles in the coolant reservoir or feel any noticeable pressure on the radiator hoses is a good sign. Edited by: Juancho

For now until you determine if you do have a leak problem, maybe go water only, I think that might be less harmful than mixed coolant. Any body else got a suggestion.

Turbine Doc,<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><O:P></O:P>


I just read the remainder of your previous post. For some reason I didn’t get passed milky oil the first time through your thread. Thanks for the great advice. The intention was to use the Burb as a family hauler. We would do very little towing with it. I got a diesel, because I think diesels are the only way to go. Personally, I do not understand why diesels have not caught on in the US. They are far more efficient than a gas engine, but I digress.<O:P></O:P>


As for emissions, in Washington State we have an opacity test for diesels. They do not inspect your rig that I know of. They do not look for a Cat. What they do is rev the hell out of your engine for brief spurts and use a sensor to see how ”thick” the smoke is coming out the tail pipe. It is a very strange test. I failed it the first time in my Ford Powerstoke. Then I put the restrictive factory air box back in, and it passed with flying colors.Edited by: Juancho

How much do you want for the truck? Just thought I'd be the first to ask.

I paid $7,800 for it and have since spent about $2,000 on new parts.

BE SURE TO USE CHEAP DIESEL OIL not just cheap oil. would hate for that to mess you up. Also what color smoke?

Wonderful news everybody. The Burb is running awesome. After about three oil and filter changes I managed to get all of the residual moisture out of the system.


Also, the truck is no longer smoking. I think all of the glycol has burnt away. Moreover, after about an hour of delicate driving, not a once of coolant was lost.


All in all, I couldn’t be happier. I really liked this rig a lot and I didn’t want to get rid of it. Especially after I put all the hard work and money into it. I love the new exhaust from Pinnacle Performance. Best $300 I ever spent. I am encouraging my wife to buy a nice used 2002 Kia Rio, which she can use as her commuter. That way we can baby the Burb, and drive only when we take the entire brat pack with us.


A huge thanks to everyone again. You guys are awesome. Only thing left to do is finish fixing the AC. By the way, I bought a reman compressor, and I noticed that it only has a Molex plug for the clutch, but I have two plugs on the wire harness. Where does the other plug go? Should I have removed a part from my old compressor before I chucked it? Also, if you could show me a picture of the compressor with both plugs that would be great. I am a very visual person.


P.S. Bowtie, for my last oil change, I used Mobile 1 syntheic 15w 50. Is that ok?


Thanks,


JohnEdited by: Juancho

The A/c compressor has a switch you have to switch off the old compressor and onto the new one. It's the snap ring held sensor in the back of the compressor, you should have remembered unplugging the old sensor. Clutch won't kick on without it, Change your orafice and blow alittle compressed air down the line when you do.

Congratulations on a job well done with the head gasket change; this stuff isn't all that complicated, somtimes you will need to take things to the shop, more from a lack of specialized tools than anything else.


I don't know if your 95 has same compressor, probably not here are some photos of mine. Open a new thread on A/C troubleshooting, so we cxan help someone elses search in the future looking for AC info hidden in this post.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/TurbineDoc/2004-10-19_070439_DCP00667.JPG


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/TurbineDoc/2004-10-19_070625_DCP00666.JPG


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/TurbineDoc/2004-10-19_070733_DCP00665.JPG


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/TurbineDoc/2004-10-19_070828_DCP00664.JPG


Edited by: Turbine Doc

the reman compressor should have a plug in the back where the high pressure sensor goes. its better to get a new one anyway because they can easily leak through. shouldn't be more than 20-30-bucks for a new one and they come with a new snap ring.