OilGuard has a new high quality custom aluminum billet oil filler cap with a fitting for connecting to the bypass filter return line. This option replaces the oil pan return fitting allowing use of the popular Fumoto Valve (http://www.lubespecialist.com/product.php?code=fumotovalves&amp;section=fumoto) for easy oil drains. (a bear originally installed his OilGuard using this method).<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

http://thumb7.webshots.com/s/thumb2/3/56/37/201035637RbitbN_th.jpg
New OilGuard Aluminum Billet Filler Cap – Installed (http://community.webshots.com/photo/65003591/201035637RbitbN)

OilGuard recently sent me one of the new caps for a fit check. The cap has a 1/8 NPT tapped hole in the center and initially came with a 90 degree 1/8NPT to #4 JIC adapter for connecting to the return line. When installing the new cap I found that this 90 fitting wouldn’t provide enough clearance to the A/C line next to the filler tube when turning the cap CCW for removal. To get adequate clearance to the A/C line when rotating the cap, I used a straight 1/8 NPT to JIC adapter and a JIC M/F 90 degree elbow. This arrangement also allows easy adjustment of the return hose angle relative to the cap. A better solution would be to use a 90 deg JIC hose fitting thus eliminating the 90-degree elbow (I believe OilGuard will supply the caps with the 90 degree hose fitting).

So far my Oilguard Installation (http://community.webshots.com/photo/65003591/201035637RbitbN) has 27k miles on it with no problems and I’ve been seeing good UOA results. The oil also “looks” clean on the dipstick.

http://thumb3.webshots.com/s/thumb1/6/68/83/74166883ZQtfsc_th.jpg


Oil at 3kmiles (http://community.webshots.com/photo/65003591/74166883ZQtfsc)


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley23.gif

A step in the right direction, but I think they are still missing the mark. Instead of making the hose connection solid they should have used a swivel fitting on the cap. Amsoil has a swivel fitting that I was thinking of installing on a stock cap for the return. Somewhere here on the forum is a picture of an installation like that. Instead I took the oilguard drain plug fitting and welded a metric jam nut on the end and drilled out the drain fitting. Now I can screw my fumoto valve into the jam nut and the whole thing screws into the oil pan. The return line fitting still attaches to the oilguard fitting as before.

I don't understand why they just don't redo the oil pan fitting to accomodate a fumoto. Seems like it would be a cleaner solution.

Jim
Edited by: jholly

That seemed crazy to me. I know I WOULD start my truck with the cap off at least once a year. Huge mess. I drilled my filler neck and installed a fitting, extremely easy to remove the filler neck. Now I can see the flow and know my filter isn't clogged.


if there is enough interest, I can post pics and sell the fitting, which adapts to the curvature. No leaks in 2000 miles. The only way to do this IMO.

Amsoil swivel fitting in stock cap works great for me. Oilguard filter canister mounted in 2nd alternator position made plumbing simple.


Don't envision starting truck with oil cap off, but I suppose anything is possible. Just shut off flow to oilguard, via valve that I installed in plumbing, in that case.

I received an update from Mark at OiGuard and he says they will include a swivel fitting with the new billet return cap kit.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley23.gif

I received an update from Mark at OiGuard and he says they will include a swivel fitting with the new billet return cap kit.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley23.gif

Bill,

If you talk to Mark again, I still have the question why they won't fix up the pan fitting to accomodate a fumoto valve.

Jim

The 3k oil sample on the stick with clean oil is a lie.



My oil is black as coal at 3k.



I have the oilguard.

Come one now, PC, they didn't say how they put those 3,000 miles on her.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif It may have been on the back of a trailer.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gif



Dennis

Bill, If you talk to Mark again, I still have the question why they won't fix up the pan fitting to accomodate a fumoto valve.

Jim, Mark's reply to your question is as follows:

"Answer:

We were going to, but the overwhelming market response has been to keep the hoses to the top of the engine area whenever possible. We are also getting a great response from diesel truck owners that want to "dress up" the engine with these anodized aluminum caps, and we are selling them to people that do not even run a bypass filter. We believe that the return line going to the oil filler cap will have more appeal to people in the long run."

Yeah, until a quart of that black oil goes running down the side of the entire hot engine. It WILL happen. I have started the truck with the oil cap off, many times. It wasn't a problem. It's nice to know you can. It's nice to know a service guy isn't going to run oil all over it, assuming I wasn't off my nut enough to route an exposed soft rubber oil line over the top of my HOT motor. DUMB design. Sorry I'm an engineer, it's my job to point out stupidity. Get a fancy schmancy cap that say's "eat at Joes" if you have to have lights and sirens. But think! What good is bypass oil filtration if you sieze your motor with a 2 mile long trail of oil behind you?


Tell him what you want, and make him give it to you. I would also insist on a teflon stainless braided line. The line he sells is the weak link in the whole kit.

Bill,


Does your truck have EGR??

Bill, Does your truck have EGR??


Ron,


No... Thankfully I lucked out... no EGR on my 03 ...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif

Yeah, until a quart of that black oil goes running down the side of the entire hot engine. It WILL happen. I have started the truck with the oil cap off, many times. It wasn't a problem. It's nice to know you can. It's nice to know a service guy isn't going to run oil all over it, assuming I wasn't off my nut enough to route an exposed soft rubber oil line over the top of my HOT motor. DUMB design. Sorry I'm an engineer, it's my job to point out stupidity. Get a fancy schmancy cap that say's "eat at Joes" if you have to have lights and sirens. But think! What good is bypass oil filtration if you sieze your motor with a 2 mile long trail of oil behind you?


Tell him what you want, and make him give it to you. I would also insist on a teflon stainless braided line. The line he sells is the weak link in the whole kit.





Assuming this was directed at my response, I am not going to be sucked in. Seen the "discussion" you have generated on other topics, and don't have the time for it.


I will say, being an Engineer as well, but tempered by real world experience, that my design does not suffer from the problems you are predicting. Other than the service guy scenerio you envision, I am not concerned; my concern is not enough for me to have done things differently.


Good luck to all with whatever design each decides to go with.

Assuming this was directed at my response, I am not going to be sucked in. Seen the "discussion" you have generated on other topics, and don't have the time for it.





I have no idea who you are, and nothing was directed to you. But from your remarks, I'd guess now you are taking credit for developing oil bypass or something related, I can't tell from your signature. Whatever the case, sorry for offending.

Yeah, until a quart of that black oil goes running
down the side of the entire hot engine. It WILL happen. I
have started the truck with the oil cap off, many times. It
wasn't a problem. It's nice to know you can. It's nice to
know a service guy isn't going to run oil all over it, assuming I
wasn't off my nut enough to route an exposed soft rubber oil line over
the top of my HOT motor. DUMB design. Sorry I'm an
engineer, it's my job to point out stupidity. Get a fancy
schmancy cap that say's "eat at Joes" if you have to have lights and
sirens. But think! What good is bypass oil filtration if
you sieze your motor with a 2 mile long trail of oil behind you?


Tell him what you want, and make him give it to you. I would
also insist on a teflon stainless braided line. The line he sells
is the weak link in the whole kit.



Masterp2,



Did you do the oilguard install to the oil fill tube? I recall
reading that method but couldn't find it in a search. I was
thinking the oilguard mounted on the dual alt position with return to
the fill cap would work well but don't care for the rubber hoses
either. Otherwise I would have preferred it under the truck back
to the pan but won't give up the fumoto http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif



Thanks,

Michael

I would not mount up high, I thinks it's messy when you have to replace the filter. My bypass is on the frame rail, routed up to the filler tube, an easy option. Fumoto uninhibited. Even if I didn't have a fumoto, I still would have done it this way, because it MAKES SENSE to me. It's idiot proof (I hope).http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif I'm not trying to stir up controversy or be a smartass. I could just see the jiffy lube tech saying "what's this?" Who knows after that, they have a hard enough time.


The oil filler tube comes off in 2 minutes, drill it, clean it out, and use nuts and gaskets to seal it up with the fitting he can give ya. My only concern worst case was, "what if I drop a nut down the hole?" If that happens then I think it sits on the pan for life. Could always use a nylon nut.

Otherwise I would have preferred it under the truck back
to the pan but won't give up the fumoto http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif


I wanted it under the truck and wanted to use a fumoto also. I got a F-107 or F-108, and a metric jam nut. I welded the jam nut on the pan adapter, drilled out the hole in the middle, and had both.

I really don't understand why Oilguard does not want to fixup the pan adaper to do it, other than they can make more money selling a shinny dodad.

Jim

I guess I'm not sure why Oil Guard's new setup would be a bad choice for me.


I'm not trying to stir anything up, I'm being objective here.


I'm the only one who ever changes my oil, I watch my oil pressure gauge very carefully, and I make it a point to inspect lines regularly.

I guess I'm not sure why Oil Guard's new setup would be a bad choice for me.


I'm not trying to stir anything up, I'm being objective here.


I'm the only one who ever changes my oil, I watch my oil pressure gauge very carefully, and I make it a point to inspect lines regularly.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif


Amen!


Whatever works for each individual situation.


In my case, the return through the oil cap works!


Good luck!

I would not mount up high, I thinks it's messy
when you have to replace the filter. My bypass is on the frame
rail, routed up to the filler tube, an easy option. Fumoto
uninhibited. Even if I didn't have a fumoto, I still would have
done it this way, because it MAKES SENSE to me. It's idiot proof
(I hope).http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif I'm not trying to
stir up controversy or be a smartass. I could just see the jiffy
lube tech saying "what's this?" Who knows after that, they have a
hard enough time.


The oil filler tube comes off in 2 minutes, drill it, clean it out,
and use nuts and gaskets to seal it up with the fitting he can give
ya. My only concern worst case was, "what if I drop a nut down
the hole?" If that happens then I think it sits on the pan for
life. Could always use a nylon nut.



Michael,



I know it can be done but isn't it difficult to get the fitting to seal
to the round fill tube? If I'm understanding correctly is there
enough "meat" in the fill tube to NPT for a NPT to JIC fitting or
something? Then you wouldn't need to worry about the nut falling into
the pan and the fitting starting to leak.



It would seem to be a cleaner install to the fill neck rather than the
cap and less cumbersom. And it would seem simple enough to make
an oil pan fitting to accomodate the fumoto. The jam nut idea is
a good one but I would need a different fumoto and I'm not sure how far
into the pan the oilguard fitting goes.



Too many ideas, not enough time,

Michael

02dmax



It is thin, you can't tap it. I tried. Just drill it and slap large hard washers, nuts to flatten that spot out. (unless you can find washers that are curved) Then undo it all and use a rubber washer or oring on the inside to seal it up against leaking. The fitting will intrude into the hole, so to use a (wide) funnel for oil changes, place the hole as low as practical.

masterp2,



Ok, I wasn't clear that you could flatten it out to get a good seal.



Thanks,

Michael

you might want to use a bolt,nut and a few washers, tighten it down hard, then unbolt. Then put your fitting in. Edited by: masterp2

I've been running the return line to the cap for a little less than 2 years. No oil mess, no burnt hoses or any other problems. I did run my return hose inside the next size larger hose for protection but even the outer hose has no wear. IMO Michael's opinion is well exagerated and running the hose to the cap is plenty safe. Frankly I would not drill the fill tube and install hardware to the inside of the tube. REGARDLESS OF WHAT WAS POSTED IT IS NOT OK TO DROP PARTS IN THE BASE. You are rolling the dice when you do so. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley21.gif


Also noteworthy is the fact that this is a orificed return. I remove my cap to check flow at each 7.5K oil change and believe me you will NOT even come close to making a mess. There is only a very small dia flow with no pressure behind it being sent there as the return is after the orifice.