I have an Oilguard bypass and am using Mobil Delvac1. My intention is
to run the oil as long as I can as long as the oil samples (every 5k
miles) show the oil is still good. I sampled at 5k and the oil was like
new. I just got my results back from the 10k miles (never added a drop
of make-up oil) and all looks VERY good except the sample showed high
soot. Predictive Maintenance Services (through AV Lube) said the soot
is categorized as "Severe" and I should change the oil.



Every time I have sampled in the past (all at 5k miles) my soot was
<0.1. At 10k it was at 1.1. I found this hard to believe since
Oilguard claims that I can DOUBLE the Oil Change Interval, which would
be 20k miles with the bypass in place.



I called Oilguard to tell them about my oil analysis results. I sent
them a copy and here was their reply.......BTW, they were extremely
helpful. They said (1) 1.1 soot is NOT high, however it may have been
red flagged because all previous samples were at <0.1. (2) All other
indicators of a soot problem are ABSENT. These indicators are TBN and
Viscosity. I was told if my soot is a problem then Viscosity will jump.
At 5k miles my viscosity was 13.5. At 10k it is 13.6.



TBN is also affected by soot. TBN is considered good until it drops to
about 1/2 of new. (TBN is a measure of the additives still available in
the oil.) At 5k TBN was 10.3. At 10k it is 10.1. New is somewhere
around 11.



Oilguard advised I NOT change the oil yet as they see no reason. They
are even sending me a sample kit and want me to send them a sample to
double check the results from AV Lube.



The only thing left that I could do is a COMPLETE oil analysis to verify the Oilguard is doing its job, but this is pricy.



I have also E-mailed George and Predictive Maint. Svcs. to ask for further input. SPICER


Edited by: SPICER

Are you changing the filter at all? Before oil change itself?
Edited by: Max Owner

No, according to Oilguard there is no need to change the filters
between oil changes. Essentially the Oilguard does the majority of all
the filtering with the standard full flow oil filter in place as a
safety net I suppose. SPICER

Oh oh! Sounds like another aftermarket filter manufacturer has lied to you about the quality of the filtration offered by their product. Time for another filter test comparison?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif

Oh oh! Sounds like another aftermarket filter
manufacturer has lied to you about the quality of the filtration
offered by their product. Time for another filter test comparison?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif



Not if I want to stay married!



Actually it would be quite interesting. In fact it would be much easier
than the air filter study since it could be done by sending samples to
a local lab. However, like the air filter study, any manufacturer worth
their weight will gladly show you the SAE data to back up their claims.
I like the idea of a comparison study but it won't be me spearheading
this one!



Anyway, an E-mail from George assured me that my oil is fine and no
need to change it. In George's opinion my oil analysis was PERFECT at
10k miles with the exception of soot, and at 1.1 even that is not an
issue. He also was surprised to see no FURTHER evidence of a soot
problem based on very good TBN and viscosity numbers. It could be an
error, but Oilguard wants to be sure and are sending me a free sample
kit for immediate analysis. This will be a nice double-check. I will
keep all posted. SPICER

Well not to start another filter war (geno piss off) but my amsoil
started burning like mad at 5300k miles. I had an oilguard. I was using
synthetic.

By 9200 the oil pressure was so low the engine started knocking.



I took the oilguard off and am now using shell synthetic.



I will change it at 7500.

To be totally honest I REALLY LIKE the Oilguard system, for many
reasons.......First, even with the cost of the system I am saving
money. Mobil Delvac1 is arguably the best oil on the market for our
trucks, but expensive! We are throwing out perfectly good oil if we
change it out at 5 or 10k miles. My oil analysis shows the oil is in
practically new condition after 10k miles!



The reason we are told to change the oil is because the oil accumulates
dirt and byproducts that our full-flow filters CANNOT remove without
starving the engine for oil. In other words, a full flow filter doing
the job of an Oilguard filter bypass would have to be the size of my
Kennedy Mega filter or bigger in order to filter down to 1-3 micron and
still deliver enough oil to the engine...not practical!



Our full-flow filter only filters to about 15-25 microns. According to
research, it is the 5-10 micron range that does damage to the engine.
Without a bypass these smaller, more damaging particles go unchecked in
our engines. Hence the need to replace our oil WAY before it's useful
life has been realized.



Therefore, a bypass system not only saves money on oil and time
changing it, but your engine is virtually free from the damaging
particle sizes. My oil at 10k miles or even 15k miles should be
"cleaner" in terms of damaging particles than ANY oil at 3-5k miles
using JUST a standard full-flow filter! I like the idea from all
angles..



The reason I am sampling is to get an idea of how the bypass is working
on the first oil fill. However, to get the WHOLE truth I probably
should do a ferrographic oil analysis in order to verify the Oilguard
is TRULY getting the 1-3 micron particles out.



As for soot....George suggested ignoring my filter minder on my air
filter and put in a new PAPER air filter. He said soot is caused by too
much fuel or too little air. At 33k miles I am still on my original
factory PAPER air filter. He said this MAY be the lack of air we are
looking for.......SPICER

I've had mine sampled for a long time now. Last soot was .5 and that's with big injectors and running over 500HP a LOT!


We've been doing ferrographic analysis and particle counts for some time now with excellent results from my bypass system. Still working on a better end seal though.





PS. my silicon is single digits (8ppm) with the Uni. Last sample silicon jumped after changing to a different brand air filter AND increasing my boost. There was also my recent injector swap somewhere in there as well, so we'll wait and see what happens on the next one...

I am going to run a 5W40 synthetic for the colder months in my
area. I was going to leave it in for 10,000 miles (16,000
KLMs) I am undecided about changing the Baldwin oil filter about
mid way.



From what Spicer posted; it would seem to be the best thing to change
the filter mid way. Can't get an Oil Guard till I get back to
work.



Any thoughts?

It would seem to me that changing the filter at 5k would be
unnecessary. There just isn't enough BIG stuff in our oil that needs
filtering to clog a full flow filter in 10k miles or above.



SPICER

Thanx Spicer.



'bout how much is an Oil Guard system, anyway?

Thanx Spicer.



'bout how much is an Oil Guard system, anyway?






Check out Oilguard.com. IIRC it was about $160. Not a lot. You can
purchase one that has a sampling port if you want for an extra $20 or
so. I didn't get it because I sample through the dipstick tube with an
"Oil Thief" from AV LUBE. Works great......The hardest part about the
Oilguard is figuring out how to mount it. Some mounted it to the floor,
under the drivers feet. I made a template for a bracket and had a
friend weld it up for me. Mounts to the frame next to the OE oil
filter. The hard part is the frame is not flat, so the bracket is a
little tricket out, not too bad though. It is a good project if you
have some time to burn. SPICER

Thanks Arlen. Have to add it to my growing list of things to do/get for the truck.

I also use the oil guard bypass filter and I'm totally unsatisfied with the product. I change the oil and filters, both filters between 8/10,000 miles. I thought it would clean the soot from the oil better than it has. I see no visual difference in the oil with or without the bypass filter. I have a 2004, 4500 CHEV LB7 that I use to transport travel trailers all across America, I average between 8 and 10,000 miles a month and that's the reason why I bought this product. If anybody has any ideas on a product that will actually clean the oil please let me know.


Thanks, rvtransporter

I also use the oil guard bypass filter and I'm
totally unsatisfied with the product. I change the oil and filters,
both filters between 8/10,000 miles. I thought it would clean the soot
from the oil better than it has. I see no visual difference in the oil
with or without the bypass filter. I have a 2004, 4500 CHEV LB7
that I use to transport travel trailers all across America, I average
between 8 and 10,000 miles a month and that's the reason why I bought
this product. If anybody has any ideas on a product that will actually
clean the oil please let me know.


Thanks, rvtransporter



Here is something to consider......Oil cleanliness has NOTHING to do
with the color. It could be pristine oil and be black, it could be
filthy oil and look golden. Oil cleanliness is measured in microns, and
how many particles at certain micron ranges. An oil can be black, but
if it has no particles over 3-5 microns in it, it is considered VERY
clean by ISO standards. The only way to know for SURE that it is this
clean is to do a ferrographic oil analysis which will cost you around
$75. I may consider doing one at the 15k mile mark to verify the work
of the Oilguard. The fact that my oil is black does not concern me, my
oil analysis looks excellent except for a little soot. This may be due
to my air filter that had 28k miles on it (original). Soot as I
understand is a byproduct of incomplete combustion caused by a
restrictive (dirty) air filter, a power chip or a lot of hard stomping
on the pedal. SPICER

Completely satisfied with mine.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif Comparing oil samples from before with after; case closed. I don't judge the oil by its color; I go with sample results.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


BTW, mounted mine in the 2nd alternator position. Piece of cake to change elements or to take samples (I did spring for the sample port; sweet!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif)