just installed a edelbrock 1792 lift pump, and it did not like it very much. I was hopeing to get some smoke from it. but no more than i nomally get. Anyone got any thoughts on these pumps, or maybe some feedback on how it worked for you.

Heres my guess based on the fueling stated in your sig.....

The banks box likely doesn't fuel hard enough to even pull down or heavily tax the stock fuel system meaning it (the stock fuel system) can keep up just fine with the demands the Banks is commanding. So, when you added the lift pump, it doesn't really help your situation because the system was already ok for the demands being asked of it, hence, no appreciable change.


Thats just my guess and I have very little credibility. Put a hard fueling tune on it and make some WOT runs with the pump off and then with it on and see if you feel a difference. Most suggest that you will if the demands being asked for are more than the stock system can provide (meaning the rail pressure gets dragged down).


C-ya

The pump will never cause smoke, its all in the tuning. The pump helps eliminate fuel pressure drop with high power tunes. There are other side benefits to the pump also such as never worrying about pulling air into the fuel system, priming the filter and such.

1792 is louder than some of the others, but it gets the job done well.

I think Mcrat is running them with good results.

I'm on my second one this year. 1st lasted 2 days, this one is working fine. I have mine on a toggle switch because of noise. I have it turned off on the street running a tow tune.

I hit the strip and turn it on.

Is it a flow through? I forgot to turn it on, one time, at the track and ran a 12.8 @ 108mph with the truck detuned, so I'd say yes, it's somewhat a flow through.

We have 1792's on all three trucks. No failures yet. We had a Carter and a Holley fail though.

Yup, it's a noisy jobber. :D

But it holds very good pressure even at 750hp, or so I've heard.

I used to run one as a primary lift pump, I set it at 12psi and could drag it down to 1 or 2 psi at WOT. Now I just use it as a priming pump and back up for my MITUSA, but I've never needed it yet. Oh I also found it a little noisy, the MITUSA is silent.

I run the 1792, lose the banks and get PPE Hot or Efi live if you want some soot lol

ok so after running it for caouple days. this is what happens. when i ran the pump off the hobbs meter. (15psi boost activate) i'd put my foot down and it would fall on its face. the banks would throw an injector imput fault. and then my power was back to stock.

i put it on a toggle and it seems to work fine with the pump always on, but it's a pain in the ass. on off on off it sucks.

i installed the pump right out of the box. so do i need to turn it up? it just seems like i dont get enough flow when the pump isn't running. please help

I havent installed mine yet but the destructions say its set to 12 psi at the factory. as for the other issues I cant help I never used banks anything

My first 1792 was only set to 6 psi the newer one was set to 12psi.

The pump needs to be running all the time.

sorry for not buying from my vendors (Dan). I figured that it will be real easy to return to my local smucks. but with no one to help me with tech suport, i think i have leaned my lesson. because right my truck is really sucking.

so who is running them? do you leave it on all the time?

Yup. Ign Hot circuit. 2 years.

Mines running all the time.

I think its to hard on the CP3 also trying to pull the fuel through the pump.

so Mcrat, no relays or switches. just a fused hot lead to the ign hot circuit? (by the way don't know where that is.)

guess that will work. kinda sucks because the pressure switch was kinda trick. worked really good in theory.

so you guys think thats my problem just needs to be on all the time? or else i dont get enough flow.

If I forget to turn my pump on (have a switch to turn it off if I want to with the key on) Truck falls on its face every time and sets the low pressure code

i'm putting in a one way check valve with a bypass so I wont have to run mine all the time. hopefully i'll have it up and going with in the week. looking for a donor piece of steel or aluminum to mount the pump and plumbing to at the moment

i thought that was one of the selling points of the pump, was that i did not have to run a bypass. but now that i found that the cp3 is haveing to hard a time pulling fuel through the 1792. i think i could have made a better decision when choosing a lift pump.:mad:

The 1792 is not a flow-thru design. I had mine hooked up with a relay to the ignition, so when I turn the key to on(not acc) the pump would start and pressure the system before the motor turned over.

Part of the appeal to the 1792 is the price and how much it flows. To get the pumps that dont need to run all the time, from one of the vendors the min. you will probably spend is in the 400.00 range.

The 1792 is not a flow-thru design. I had mine hooked up with a relay to the ignition, so when I turn the key to on(not acc) the pump would start and pressure the system before the motor turned over.


did you hook it up, or did you have it done for you? if so i had it hooked up through a relay, from the pressure switch. but i think it's back to the drawing board.

did you hook it up, or did you have it done for you? if so i had it hooked up through a relay, from the pressure switch. but i think it's back to the drawing board.

I had my local car audio guru wired up the relay, I wanted it to turn the pump on when the key was on "run" and stay on while the truck was running.A pressure switch seems more complicated. If you all ready have the relay hooked up, anyone who installs remote starters could tell you a good wire to tie into. Again the pump is not flow through so it need to run all the time. A bypass with a check valve or even a ball valve is not a bad idea, if the pump ever has any problems, aleast you could limp home. Hope this helps.

The 1792 flows enough to run 12.80 for Idahorob's truck, And I have drove around with mine off and no limping home.

oh i can drive around with it off, as long as i don't drop the hammer. I just wanted to know if something was wrong, but i guess no one is running them on a pressure switch. so that is my problem.

I hooked mine up thru the air bag fuse under the hood with a add a fuse, and grounded the pump in the back.turn key on and pump comes on.

well i guess i'll return my 30 dollar hobbs switch and run it on an acc lead with a switch.

I run one with the summit relay all the time.

I run one with the summit relay all the time.

Zank your just saying you run the pump at all times right? whats a summit relay?

Eldebrock sells a relay for the pump that cost more than the generic one that summit sells which is probley made my eldebrock. IIRC I paid 20-25 dollars for the relay. I run propane and put a wire under a fuse in the big box on driverside under hood to turn pane on and off. Under the fuse box under the hood is a large red wire that comes from batt. I ran a wire from it to the firewall to a fuse that came with relay. Then run wire to relay next to pump with a ground to frame. When key is on, the pump is on etc.
I don't hear any nose unless I stand out side of truck with it ideling.

i have been reading alot about people adding the 1792 pump. where are you guys locating this pump and how are you hooking it up? what psi do you run with out hurting the cp3? how many gph do you need, do you need at least the 160 like the 1792. thanks

I'm also about about to hook up a 1792 but I'm concerned about the noise that ya'll describe the pump making. Do you think a box fabbed around the pump with about a 2" air gap between pump & box with insulation mounted on box to sound deaden would work with a few 1/2" to 3/4" holes drilled in it for airflow to keep help pump cool would work?

Thanks in advance,
Bean

i have been reading alot about people adding the 1792 pump. where are you guys locating this pump and how are you hooking it up? what psi do you run with out hurting the cp3? how many gph do you need, do you need at least the 160 like the 1792. thanks


I was gonna do a write up on the install with pics and a wireing diagram for the relay and hobbs. but i'm kinda back to the drawing board for a nice reliable way to hook it up. that and with the input and out put, it's mounted upsidedown. i don't really like that.

it's mounted upsidedown. i don't really like that.

theres a problem right there, the pump cant be mounted upside down, ripmf66 did this and also had problems, the pump is flow through as in flow through enough to get you home if it quits working, everyone i know that runs one has it running all the time

look up user LB7diesel he has a picture in his garage of a good way to run the hose connections

First one leaked and I have the new one upside down and its not leaking when I add the filter and other pump I will be mounting it right side up lol.

Just curious, but why mount it upside down anyway?

Just curious, but why mount it upside down anyway?

I assume it is easier to plumb, with the inlet being on the right and the fuel supply line coming from the left. lots of other assumptions here. I thought about doing it myself.

My hobbs switch to eldbrock relay seems to be working great. I dont think you are adding anymore load/demand on the cp3 by only turing it on above idle.(compared to wot w/out lift pump) I can not see or feel any big differences. My logs are alot like they were before as to when it turns on and off, except that after the first drop in actual to demanded it climbs back up to desired pressure +, where before i was seeing 5000psi difference.

The hobbs switches are adjustable so you can drop them to activate at like 3-4 psi if you are worried. at least then you don't have to listen to the pump while at the bank drive-thru etc. (rubber mounting helped alot too)

But if you use the thinking a little more load at idle is still more load on the cp3, then yes your lifespan of the cp3 may be shortened. Wot runs and restricted fuel filters are doing the same thing.

I agree that riding with the pump off is alot like running with a restricted fuel filter.

Just from a quick check at idle, a good filter will pull about 3-3.5" of vacuum. A wot run up to 3200 rpms will usually pull to a max of 6-7"
With the pump installed and turned off the cp3 pump is pulling about 15" of vacuum at idle. Most times I see restricted filters start causing problems around 10-12" at idle

in my opinion that is putting about 5x the normal amount of strain on the pump even at idle, not to mention load, depending on what you have the hobbs switch set to.

theres a problem right there, the pump cant be mounted upside down, ripmf66 did this and also had problems, the pump is flow through as in flow through enough to get you home if it quits working, everyone i know that runs one has it running all the time



Have you tried this?

Mine is mounted upside down(which is easier to install this way) and is on a relay with a toggle switch. I run everyday with the pump turned off. No rail pressure codes or falling on it's face problems, with a mild 450-500HP tune.

Is this the best pump, no way(noisey, chance of leaks) but it's cheap and won't leave you stranded.

I cant get on my "big" tune at all without setting low rail pressure code. I imagine with the 103.6 trap speed, that puts it around 480 at the tires...If I had to guess.

To mount mine right side up, I put a 90 into the pump, which maybe enough to cause a problem. :confuzeld I can drive it with the pump off, just cant stand on it at all.

I agree that riding with the pump off is alot like running with a restricted fuel filter.

Just from a quick check at idle, a good filter will pull about 3-3.5" of vacuum. A wot run up to 3200 rpms will usually pull to a max of 6-7"
With the pump installed and turned off the cp3 pump is pulling about 15" of vacuum at idle. Most times I see restricted filters start causing problems around 10-12" at idle

in my opinion that is putting about 5x the normal amount of strain on the pump even at idle, not to mention load, depending on what you have the hobbs switch set to.

That is good information.
:eek: I knew i needed to get some gauges and check. Perfect example of why not to use your SOTP guage. This might explain why the idle lope is starting to show back up.

As far as codes, my lb7 has none, and my logs are showing actual even higher than desired during a dyno run that reported 489hp/1054trg. so????

I Guess a bypass would fix it. I just couldn't find a low restriction check valve locally. anyone have a suggest where to find one? CP3's are too expensive to replace just because the lift pump is noisy.

never heard of mouning an elec. pump upside down but at the same time i never heard it was bad either! the only thing i could see that could be bad is fuel leaking on the hot motor of the pump! I havent put mine on yet so i think im going to try calling edlebrock and see what they say before i do. I dont like the idea of having to run a 90 to make it work right side up either. Thanks for you posts guys!

i'm going to be using an earls 251008erl
its a #8 flapper style check valve

Damn another $80 bucks plus fittings and hose.

JK's stuff looks looks better all the time.

when mounting right side up, id have to do a 180 on the output side. it's running great right now. we'll see how long it lasts.

glad we got the questions answered, thanks for the info COBRA, i think i would have killed my CP3 if the pump wasn't running all the time.

$80? I only payed %55 I think for it... well I didnt pay just yet but the price on my ticket is $55 if I recall. but yea the fittings will add up. i'm hoping to bolt it together for a mock up to a mounting plate this weekend i'll try and get some pics

I basically did the hoses the way the kennedy pump does, took the flexable portion of the line from the tank to the steel line out, heated up some 1/2" fuel line and pushed it over the pipe on the tank and the other half of the pipe and then clamped them.

So the inlet is 90 deg. in and the outlet is straight out.

I did mine for about 50 bucks on top of pump cost.

2 barb fittings and a 90 degree from lowes, 1/2 fuel line from NAPA, and Painless fuel pump relay from Jegs.

It doesn't look that great but you'd have to get completely under the truck to see it. But you can definately hear it.;)

I also have a Mr. Gasket oil pressure safety switch for a future install when I figure out the bushing size and where on the oil filter housing to mount it.

just got my 1792 yesterday as a temporary/permanent replacement for the TTS, On the box (or instructions) it said that the pump is quiet. Is it that loud? I have 5" exhaust straight, will I be able to hear it over that?

Also, does it need a filter before the pump?

you won't hear it when running, at idle maybe! I have a filter before pump and have had no trouble with it.

can hear it at idle outside the truck. If in the truck, running and the radio on, have to listen for it. Cant hear it driving down the road