I have an 01 DMAX and on startup i have no oil pressure, just like would happen when you change the oil, after that it goes to 70 - 80 lb and stays there. the motor has always had great oil pressure but just a problem at startup. sometimes the oil pressure light actually flashes on for a second. is there mabey some type of check valve assembly that goes to the turbo or something that is stuck?

What kind of erl filter are you running?


Sounds like the check valve is letting the oil drain back.


Doug

i'm running a fram filter, where is the checkvalve, is it right in the oil filter housing?

The Fram is a serious POS. Change today!

The Fram is a serious POS. Change today!


what filter should i switch to?


but how can a filter effect drainback?

antz01 - the filter should have an antidrainback valve in it....generally speaking it is either a rubber or silicone type "disc" that , as the name suggests, keeps the oil in the filter body from draining back into the filter. Fram uses a rubber drain back valve (if they have one at all) I know Wix uses a silicone valve that doesn't harden. Personally , I use a napa filter (p/n 7202) which is made by wix....

scrap the fram go to at least a/c delco filter.

Wix or AC Delco or even an Amsoil or Baldwin. The Fram has shown to be real junk and even burst on a guy in Alaska. Do a search on oil filter and you will find the thread on it.

thanks guys i have to change the oil next week and i'm gonna switch to a wix filter.

I have the exact same problem, and run the Baldwin filter. 3 Oil changes later and it has done it on every filter.

my Max SOMETIMES is slow for oil pressure to build up and have had my oil pressure light flash on. It seems more so at colder temps. I also run an Amsoil bypass filter setup [2 Amsoil filters]. I have suspected this setup delays pressure build for a couple seconds. I just ordered the new Amsoil preluber for an install at my next oil change. We shall see if that helps.

GRMax,


I took a look at the preluber. Looks cool, but boy are they proud of that sucker!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif I was figuring 1/2 the price they want. I think I can just splice into my lift pump wiring to actuate if I decide to get one.


I would like to know if it is just a spring loaded reservoir that the solinoid releases when it gets power. The oil pressure resets it and then you go on. You will have to let us all know how it works. I have thought of getting a preluber before, but didn't like what I found out there.

21 years while in college I built a preluber out of a starter. I put a gear pump on the end, made the oil pan drainplug into my pump suction point and teed the outlet at the oil pressure sender. Worked great, except that I was really poor at the time. On cold winter days by the time I had good oil pressure, my old battery was so whipped I couldn't start the car! The only good preluber in my opinion is a real pump, not just an accumulator.

A friend of mine has a pump type preluber that pre-pressurizes his oil system prior to start. It also operates on a timer after shut down for several seconds to keep oil flowing to the turbo during spin down. The place he got it is out of buissness now but I searched the web and found the place below. By the picture it looks like the exact same kit he got....in fact it looks like the exact same picture. However they don't list a price on the site and I have not contacted them......


http://www.marinemanifold.com/partspages/Pre-luber/preluber1 (http://www.marinemanifold.com/partspages/Pre-luber/preluber1.htm) .htm

I had the problem once and got away from the Fram filter, the regular old ac/delco does fine. No more problems.


Also makes me wonder just how hot the oil is getting if it can damage a drain valve inside a filter, don't we have oil coolers in these dmaxes?http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif


Doug

mpdlt - I doubt heat is an issue to the drain valves...If the oil got
hot enough to melt/distort that valve, there would be far more serious
consequences in the motor as well...