Yup,
The Tahoe is officially BDNWF (Broke Dick No Worky ******). I went to leave school yesterday and it took me over a half an hour to get it started. It would crank for a while, and nothing. Then, like it was taunting me, it would start and run. Sometimes for less than 2 seconds, sometimes for over a minute. But the end result was always the same... it would just die for no apparent reason. So, I popped the hood and had a look at things. On a whim I decided to check the connection of the PMD harness. I stuck my hand down there and wiggled things around. I coul've sworn I heard a distinct "crackle" from the connector. It may have been just my state of mind... I was slightly frustrated. After the "wiggling" remedy the truck started and ran great for about 30 seconds. Then it died again. After a short wait, I tried it again, and it fired up. Again it died after about 2 minutes. Feeling very angry at this point I pumped the accelerator with the key on. My hope was to clear any codes that may have stored in an attempt to get this thing home. It started... it did not die... I drove home. On the way home I noticed a stronger than usual stalling at a constant speed. I am afraid to rely on it as transportation now. I am considering buying a PMD... but for a college student that is a huge investment. I am wondering if anyone has any other remedies... or can tie my symptoms together to find a cause. I am not afraid to spend the money on the PMD, I would just like to be fairly certain that that is the problem. Well, if you have any advice please throw it at me. Thanks for your assistance.

-Looks like I may not be able to hold out until the "homemade PMD" is done-

its the pmd more than likely, replace it, with a remote mount one. ive had the same problems with my 96 hoe.

I would look at the fuel supply first. Did you try and bleed/pressure up the fuel bowl? Does the filter bleed shoot out fuel or stall the truck when opened with motor running?


save the PMD money for TDG. He can gt you one for less.

Inj Pump wiring harnesses had known, similar problems.


Fortunately, when you buy a new FSD, Stanadyne includes a new IP harness, for just that reason.


If you don't get the harness with your module, you're either getting NOS, or somebody is pocketing the wire.


Demand it.


Insist on it.Edited by: gmctd

Bought one from GM in houston two years ago and didn't get a harness.

A seemingly large number of others have, also - makes you wonder where all that wire is going to.......


(syntax error emphasizes point!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)

QM,

I fired up the truck, it actually ran this time, and cracked the bleed valve. Although the truck didn't stall there was an obvious change in tone and RPM. I proceeded to open the valve fully and observed a steady stream of fuel from the hose. I am not familiar with the volume that this system should move. With the valve fully open, should I see a steady stream or a fuel spraying out? I forgot to time how long the valve was open, but I got a about 3 or 4 onces in something like 10 seconds. I can check again and time it if it would help. At the conclusion of the test when I closed the valve the engine did not change in tone or RPM. It seems to me like it should have. Well, if anyone can comment on my findings please do. Thank You again.

Also... I noticed I my water in fuel light was out at the initial "key on" period. At this point I do not know if my problems could be contaminent based. I am waiting to see if any water precipitates out of my sample. I will fix the bulb this weekend. Thanks again.Edited by: tahoe2dr

If you have fuel pressure on the drain "T" with it running, it means the OPS is working and lift pump pumping. If you had cracked the bleed at the top of the fuel filter you could have checked for the pressence of air in the system.


A bad ignition connection at the passenger side battery + will stall it. Also the ignition swich can become intermittent.


You're problem doesn't sound like the PMD. It would stall and restart maybe but bnot so many stalls so fast sounds more like intermittent electrical connection/ground.

QM,

I am by no means second guessing your knowledge here...

But wouldn't a loose connection on the battery cause other things like the radio and lights to flicker as well?

And wouldn't that affect cranking?

It cranked over flawlessly everytime.

I will check it out regardless.

Any idea on where to start tracing other wires?

I have pulled the ignition switch out this style column before... my fiance's 97 grand prix had some issues.

I will pull the ignition switch and check that out for carbon tracking and burned contacts.

I agree with the shorted wire idea... i just really don't like hand over handing wires.

Thanks again for the help.Edited by: tahoe2dr

There's two wires going towards the starter. The fat one and a tiny one. The tiny one is the ignition wire. Add to that the corrosion prone factory terminals, a little resistance induced oxidation and it can stall you. Edited by: quantum mechanic

ok, this is strange.

I just checked out the battery connections, as it is an easy thing to do.

I looked first at the passenger side.

There are two heavy gauge cables on the positive terminal... both appear to be the standard battery cables.

Moving over to the driver's side I found the small and large gauge wires you refered to.

I kicked myself in the ass for checking it earlier as the terminal could be wiggled by hand.

I tightened things up a bit, and traced the wires out.

The thin wire with the fusible link heads toward the motor and disappears into the darkness.

The thick wire on the other hand heads rearward into the distribution panel.

Did they route the starter wire through the accessory fuse panel on 95's?

Or are the Tahoes just "special" cases?

----Correction-----

Now as I think about it... the cable to the starter does come off the passenger battery.

The other large gauge wire on the driver's side must be to supply the loads on the accessory fuse panel.

I think... Right?

-----End of Correction----

I am going to take it out for spin now... I will post something in a few minutes... provided I make it home.

Thanks again

It changed sides in '95. Edited by: quantum mechanic

Well, less than satisfactory results.
First it didn't fire up like it normally does.
It fired and died right away... just like it didn't really start.
Then it fired like normal and ran ok.
I thought the starting might have been a fluke.
So, I took it on a drive.
I went about 8 miles, no problems, no missing.
When I slowed and came to a stop the brakes felt kind of funny.
Guess what... it died.
I coasted out of traffic onto a side road.
Put the truck in nuetral, cranked, fired right up.
Drove another 100 yds died again.
Nuetral, crank, fire ... 50 yds, dead.
It did this about 6 times.
Then it ran fine and got me home.
Guess it's not the terminals...
Are there any other common failure points in the wire harness to look for?

Thanks again

You don't have a nonvented fuel cap do you? still sounds more like fuel than electrcal.

I have the stock cap... I assume it is vented.
The thing with that is that it did not do any of this when I bought the truck.
Or for the first month of driving it.
I am still looking for inexpensive fixes at this point.
What can shut down the engine once it is running that can be associated with starting it?
I also noticed tonight that the engine stalled under load, that is a new one.
Does the APP tie into how the truck runs at idle or how it starts?
Can a failing APP cause the truck to shut down?
Not really sure what else to look at right now.
I guess I will be going over the wire harness with a fine tooth comb.
I will aslo dismantle the ignition switch.
I would like to put together a checklist of things that can shut down the engine.

Thanks Again.

You don't have a nonvented fuel cap do you? still sounds more like fuel than electrcal.


Thats exactly what I was thinking reading his post and the way it's acting. Just like how mine acted when I changed my fuel filter with a inoperatalbe lift pump, before I knew I had a problem, it was acting like my 6.2 which had no elec lift pump and had to crank alot to prime the pump. Maybe air in the lines, didn't someone else find bad fuel line causing this problem on another posting here?

You might replace the fuel cap any way, fast and easy to see if problem. Also When it acts up take the fuel cap off, you got vaccuum or pressure in the tank?

I just went through a very similar experience last spring with my Tahoe. Every spring and fall I change the fuel filter, so I know it was good. A few weeks earlier I found the lift pump was dead with power to it. I check this circuit before changing filter so the bleeding process goes easier.


New lift pump and OPS I'm good?


Three weeks later coming home the truck stalled just like yours. I thought it was the PMD. It was hot but not that old? I put some snow from the side of the road on it to cool it down. The truck started after a long crank and about fifty yards it dies again. Not like I turned the key off more like it was running out of fuel. This went on for the next few miles.


After getting home now I can diagnose it better.


Fuel filter is good but slightly low. Power to the lift pump but not working. This lift pump is only a few weeks old. After swapping out the lift pump it fires right up and has been flawless for more than six months. I only use AC Delco. I think the lift pump seized up and created a big restriction. The fuel injection pump can and will pull from the tank by itself but the extra load can and will shorten its life.


I would look very closely at the components of the fuel system. This truck is the fastest diesel I've ever driven. It's been very good to me even though I beat it to within an inch of it's life every day. I'm sure yours is very fast as well.





good luck

Alright,

I will visually inspect the fuel lines, check the function of the lift pump, replace the fuel filter, and replace the fuel cap. How do I go about jumping out the lift pump relay? Can the OPS fail intermitently? Hopefully I will find something out here.

Thanks again for all your help.

Search hi and lo on these forums for the EXACT GM part# for the DIESEL CAP.


When I bought a new one, the GM dealer first sold me the wrong cap. I even had him double check, and he swore it was the right one. Then on the forums here someone gave me the part#, and when I had the dealer look it up, he was shocked. Turns out I was right and he was wrong.


MAKE SURE CAP SAYS "DIESEL ONLY"Edited by: w_huisman

If you put the truck in gear with the key in the start position and hold it, the lift pump is energized but the truck can't start. The OPS is a known issue for failure.

Yeah, well known....thats why the best way is to work around it.

You jump the lift pump relay.


That is you pull it out and it looks like this: - X Jump from x to x.


X - -Edited by: quantum mechanic

My fuel cap does say "Diesel Fuel Only".

It is late, I am tired, I will continue this tomorrow evening when I am better able to think. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley24.gif

You jump the lift pump relay. That is you pull it out and it looks like this: - X Jump from x to x.


X - -





will a picture help?


here how I jumped mine.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/bowtie/2004-10-07_220417_relay_bypass.jpg

before you buy a new fuel cap, try leaving your cap loose. this will aid in venting and remove the vacuum from the system. on a 95 i highly recommend hotwiring the fuel pump as bowtie has recommended. this worked on a 95 suburban that has had a problem for years. GM has put two injection pumps in that burban on warranty and it turned out that for less than 5bucks worth or parts it resolved the issue. I know its illegal, but it works





to clarify issues on your hoe for me... when it dies, does it flat out die, or does it hesitate and miss and sputter till it dies? my thinking from what you have said is that it runs really well and then sporadically dies for seemingly seemingly no reason.


guys correct me if im wrong, but doesent that sound like either a fuel cutoff solenoid or a pmd rather than a lift pump/ops issue? we all know the trucks will run without a lift pump, just not as well. if the lift pump dies during operation it would effect the overall strength of the motor, but as far as stalling it, i cant see that happening from a lift pump.

Exactly correct... it does not hesitate, lag, stumble, drop in rpm's... it just dies, like you turned the key off, but everything else stays powered up. I was thinking PMD... actually hoping PMD rather than the IP. I suppose I will start cheapest first. I will loosen the fuel cap and see what that does.

Thanks again.

Exactly correct... it does not hesitate, lag, stumble, drop in rpm's... it just dies, like you turned the key off, but everything else stays powered up. I was thinking PMD... actually hoping PMD rather than the IP. I suppose I will start cheapest first. I will loosen the fuel cap and see what that does.

Thanks again.





Sounds electrical to me. Don't think a new fuel cap is gonna fix ya. I'm telling ya, if one of your ground cables is loose, she'll shut down intermittantly like someone turning off the lights in the living room. BTDT just two days ago. I was leaving town and the truck was cutting out. Pulled over, popped the hood, and the ground cable on the driver's side was loose as a goose. Tightened her up, and off I went. 200+ miles later, no probs. So at least double-check all your grounds and rule that out.


I need new motor mounts. I think that's why my battery cables work loose once in a while.


BTW: Nice pic Bowtie! I'll have to check that out for myself! Sure would be nice not to have to worry about that darn OPS taking a dump.Edited by: w_huisman

I would check your battery cables as Huisan has recommended. that could be very cheap. scrub them with a wire brush and get rid of all the corrosion. there are several separate grounds, i believe there are two body grounds, and two motor grounds. make sure theyre clean on both ends, scrub all your hots as well. after that, i would think your problem is narrowed to the pmd or fuel shut off solenoid. i dont know, but first guess is the solenoid is a cheaper fix. i guess you could check the function of the solenoid, but i dont know the wiring on it. personally from my experience with the same problem on a 96 tahoe, i would believe it was the pmd. but i could be wrong, regardless, your problem sounds electical in nature. for some reason, there is a hard shut off on the fuel, be it the solenoid or the pmd, either way, those two are really the only flat out stops in the system, any other systems, fuel pump, filter, tank vacuum will show a decrease in power rather than a sudden shut off

Air in the fuel will kill it fast and allow re-starts too.Edited by: quantum mechanic

but it would miss before shutting down unless it was a major air pocket. and if it were a large air pocket, it probably would not restart without repriming. it would also miss intermitently on start up as well i would think

bowtie,


That's all you have to do...one little 'ole red wire?

bowtie,


That's all you have to do...one little 'ole red wire?





Yeap takes the OPS and fuel Pump relay out of the system and doesn't require any spices to be a problem later. That wire setup is from little-fuse, called "add-a-circuit" and you remove a near by fuse and plug this in it's place. The add-a-circuit has a spot for 2 fuses one for the new circuit and one for the circuit where you removed the fuse from. neat item and works great too.

but it would miss before shutting down unless it was a major air pocket. and if it were a large air pocket, it probably would not restart without repriming. it would also miss intermitently on start up as well i would think


SOunds like it could be Electric or an air pocket in the fuel system. Like I said it sounds like it is losing it's prime and the hard to restart is repriming or refilling the fuel bowl.

Where did you get that "add-a-circuit"? I'm guessing the little black box on the right-side end of the wire is that is called the add-a-circuit, right?

Add a circuit available in most automotive stores, in fuse & wire rack

Hi guys,

I just got home and am ready to tackle the task at hand.
Got a good nights rest and some inspiration from my philosophy class.
Can't remember exactly how it goes, something like, "Man is spared nothing. Man endures the most exquisite suffering. Life is a joke."
So , keeping that in mind, if the problem is simple... great.
If it costs me a thousand dollars to fix myself... great.
The only thing I can do is realize that everything breaks down over time, except my honda that has 250,000 miles on it.
And I have to remember that I got the truck for about 3,000 less than the NADA low wholesale value.
As far as this fuel solenoid... what function does serve?
Can it be tested?
Can it be isolated from the loop?
Thanks again guys, you have provided more help than you may ever know.

The fuel solenoid opens and close the plunger inside the injection pump as directed by the FSD but don't you mean fuel pump relay?


It's in the fuseblock under the hood.

I meant the solenoid... and I guess there is no way to isolate it if it acts internal to the IP. I am going on a parts run here... and then I will spend the rest of the evening plugging away at this "problem"
Thanks again

PMD is the problem, I'm positive, FSol is driven by the PMD if you had a problem with the Solenoid you would have a code 35 or 36 for long/short Ctime. Stalling as you describe it is caused by the driver cutting out intermittently.

TDG,
I am trying PM you about a PMD... am having no luck. You guys with the long nicks are impossible to PM. How can I contact you concerning a PMD?
Thanks

Are you trying to contact me about purchasing one? Do it on the 'Spare Anyone?' forum. I'm afraid at the moment demand has exceeded supply, but I will be able to round some more up.

I'll give my place for 2dr tahoe since he has problems.

QM, I would really appreciate that.
TDG, roger will co. I'll ask some questions on the corect thread.
Thanks again.

TDG,
I cannot PM you for some reason, but I left my e-mail on the "Spare Anyone?" thread.
I don't want to be annoying about this either, so I hope I don't come off that way.
I replaced my fuel filter, bled the system of air, and did a visual inspection of the wire harnesses under the intake.
The problem is most definately not the fuel supply... the pump moves plenty of fuel and the old filter was relatively clean.
I took the truck on a test run, hmmmm... strange.
I drove about 5 miles with no incedent and no lack of power.
The truck performed great, until I got to my driveway.
Again it cut out.
It reastarted easily.
While I was turning around however, the truck "surged".
I got the truck back into the garage and tried to get it to repeat the surging.
I found that by short-cycling the ingnition switch the "hunt and surge" on the tachometer was exactly like what I had experienced while turning around.
I did not remove and clean the contacts on the ignition switch.
I will hopefully do that tomorrow.
Unfortuneatly I stil think it is the PMD.
Cleaning the ign switch will eliminate that from the list of possible causes though.
I am looking at investment casting another PMD cooler within the next week, so I will need another PMD anyway.
The cooler I made as a prototype has given me a lot of insight.
The new version will be much smaller, with more fins.
If you have not seen my protoype, or my improved design you can find it on the "cast pmd" thread.
I will continue to look for problems such as shorts, faulty grounds, and air leaks.
But I believe ultimately the PMD will need replacing.
If anyone has leads on competitively priced PMD's let me know.
E-mail if you want... abadv8@charter.net
Thanks, Sean

I retract what I said in my earlier post condemning your PMD after hearing your latest info. Sounds like you might have a different problem.


Can you get access to a scan tool to hook up to the truck? If you can, go to the data display screen and watch the CTime. Should be in the 1.5-1.9 range and it should also be relatively constant. If your CTime is reading 1.8 or higher, or deviating more than 0.05, especially if it goes outside the operational range indicates you have a FSOL problem which will not be solved by a new PMD. Normally, if a faulty PMD is the culprit, when the truck stalls it will not start/restart immediately, but not always. Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

I don't have access to a scan-tool.
What is the latest part no. on a PMD?
I found a p/n 34583 with a wire harness and pad for $179.
Well just wondering.
Thanks

Once you've got the surge...I know the F Sol is already worn.


TDG,


Do these armatures wear on the cap, increase the .005" armature travel, which opens the plunger late and or partially and stall a truck momentarily like that?

wear on the armature, cap and solenoid face all increase travel distance of the armature resulting in slower response times and the armature itself over time will scar resulting in dragging/hanging which can cause stalling.

34583 is the latest part#, $180 bucks sounds a little pricey for a used one to me.

No, it is "new", or "NIB"... something like that.
The best I found I could get them for was $216 locally.
So, is $180 good for a new one?
Thanks

For 'New In Box' thats a good price, but you might ask them where the new wiring harness that comes with it is. Box will say 35976, which is the PMD kit, includes driver, pad and harness.

Why would the "stalling" be intermitant(sp?)if the Fuel solenoid was worn?
I don't suppose there is anyway to replace that.
If it can be done with standard machine shop measuring tools, like calipers, dial inicators, or gauge blocks I'm all set.
If it takes something outlandish to repair it... how much for a rebuilt pump?
I have heard about $700.
Is that accurate?
Would I be best off to just buy and install a used one for $100?
My time is worth very little right now... and I have a few other cars to fall back on...
Thanks Again.

The IP and PCM rely on the FSol to react in a specific time frame to properly meter fuel. A scanner will give you a good clue as to the solenoids performance by monitoring closure time at various RPMs. If they seem steady and within the 1.5-1.9 window, then go with replacing the PMD.


Could theoretically be done with the tools you mentioned, but the one thing you don't have is parts. Don't bet on one from the scrapyard being in any better shape than yours already is.


DS pumps are expensive to rebuild, no 2 ways about it, there's twice as many parts inside one as there is in a DB2, gasket kit is twice as big and expensive, and they take longer to build and calibrate. I've seen more than a couple of times people send us their pumps after another fuel shop has 'rebuilt' and they still have problems. They often reuse worn parts, like blades and regulating pistons that I never even look at, just replace new. What I'm saying is a cheaper rebuild may or may not be a good idea.

T2,


Call around to some service shops and explain what you have to verify (CT) and ask what kind of scanner they have (snap on MT2500 or Tech2) and ask how much. This should give you an idea of what it's going to cost to verify what's stalling it.


A fuel shop should be able to replace the F Sol if that is all it is. Replacing it yourself would require something like this:


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/quantummechanic/2004-10-10_160733_Dialtool.jpg

Okay,
I will see if I can get my hands on a scanner through someone I know.
I always hate to pay just to have someone tell me what's wrong.
I see what you are saying now TDG.
Makes sense that a loose or part could trhow things out of time enough to kill it.
I will do some serious investigating here in the next week.
Thanks again guys.

QM,
What program is it that you run on your laptop?
I saw it in one of your pictures and was wondering about it.

I use Ease diagnostic's personal GM OBDI enhanced parameter. It can scan 20 other GM EFI vehicles as well. kit costs about $350 for OBDI.

okay,
since last night when I noticed the surging, I have yet to have it repeat. I started it tonight and let it idle for about fifteen minutes before moving it into the garage. The idle was very constant. I am leaning more and more toward the ignition switch. I opened up the column and found exactly what I was afraid of. The switch looks identical to the one in my fiance's old grand prix. There was actually a recall on those switches because if you had the automatic headlight feature they would just turn off at random. It seems like those particular switches were designed for negative outputs, but some genious at GM thought it would work with a high amp load. I realized that I am unable to completely pull the switch without an E3 or E4 torx. I will pick on up tomorrow and continue this. Maybe I am counting my eggs before they hatch here, but I have this lurking suspicion that if the switch is cleaned the problem will cease. I cleaned the switch on the grand prix and had 2 years of worry free performance. Does anyone know off hand approximately what the amp load is of the ignition "run circuit" on the switch? I am really crossing my fingers here, but this is looking all to familiar.
Thanks Again

well, got the proper tools now... just have to make them fit the application. Has anyone found there to be a correlation between random stalling and the ignition switch? I would be curious to know if anyone else has seen this. I am still optimistic about the problem, but in a few short hours I will know for sure.
Edited by: tahoe2dr

mdhorban wired the electrical load off of his ignition switch to cure a stalling problem.

urgh... I am never going to get this done. I have had very little time to work on my project. The ignition switch is hanging loose from the column, and that is about where I had to stop. Maybe, I'll cross my fingers, I can get it done tomorrow. I will look at MD's post in the meantime.

So ummm, does this look like it could be the problem? Like I said, it looked an awful lot like the ignition switch on the grand prix. Still don't know if this is going to fix, but it worked for the grand prix. Does anyone know what the wires are that are connected to the ignition switch? Like what color is what? I would like to know so I can evaluate the probability of this being my problem. Kind of looks that way though... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/tahoe2dr/2004-10-12_102235_Culprits.JPG

Notice how much carbon there is on the far righthand one. I wonder how it ever made contact? Will this cure my occasionally waivering gauges? Only time will tell I guess. So, if anyone has information on the ignition switch wires I would love to hear it. Maybe this can help eliminate problems for people have replaced everything but the switch.
Thanks Again

I am thinking I can wire wheel it with a dremel and then coat it with some de-ox-it and grease the cam. Beats spending $175, that's for sure.

hope this is your problem let us know OK

will do, for sure... if this works, it should be available to help others, right?
All of you guys have been a great help, thank you very much.

Do those contacts touch each other or is the other side of the contact, the stationary part; just as dirty. As for stalling, I havent pulled up the SKEE MATICS and looked yet, but with intermittent contact, maybe it's possible PCM sees a key off indication loss of "fire in the wire" and energizes the fuel shutdown solenoid which must be the one working piece in this whole puzzle.

I'm not sure that this will answer you question TD. The levers sit in the housing in those "grooves" on the outside. They make contact where I have indicated. They are held in contact by springs. I will put up more pictures as I reassemble. Yes, although the stationary part is hard to see, the carbon buildup is equivalent to what you see on the contacts.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/tahoe2dr/2004-10-12_145009_Housing.JPG

The springs make the contacts come together all the time, what holds them apart is the tumbler in the middle that turns when you turn the key. Put some sticky grease in the little round holes where the springs sit to hold them in place while you put it back together. The hardest part about putting it back together is that you need to hold the tumbler all the way against it's spring as if you were turning the key to the cranking position, otherwise you'll find that once it's together the key won't turn. The bigger round spring has a groove and a stop for it to hold it in place so as only to provide tension when the key is turned past "on" and into the cranking position. Otherwise the spring would want to turn the truck "off". If you put it together wrong the spring hits the back side of it's stop preventing you from turning it any farther.

ooops, yeah... i haven't done this for 3 years so I am a little rusty. Thanks Bobt250

Bobt250,
I was correct in stating that spring pressure holds the contacts closed. The cam hold s the contacts open? Thank you though for the advice on the return spring. When I looked at I realized that was what kicked my butt last time I did something like this. Found That a 1/4" flathead works just about right to hold and turn the cam. That and an extra hand.

Probably if you can find one or make one out of spring steel would be a locksmiths tension tool, I laugh in movies where they forget that not only do you need a pik, to rake the tumblers; you need some rotational force on the cylinder to keep the pins seated down, and also rotate to unlocked or start position. Hobby vise works good for that extra hand, or small C clamp chucked up in a regular vise.


Going back looking at you pics looks like you are trying to fix it in the truck, that correct ??? try some needle nose vise grips to hold the lock body and a clamp to hold the grips to the steering wheel if you can manage that or tie it to the wheel with zip ties or similar (wire-tie wrap-string etc.) Sounds crazy but every once it a while that works for me working tight quarters and need an extra hand.Edited by: Turbine Doc

I missed this thread before but ever since half way through the first page, I was already thinking it might be the ignition switch. There are (or used to be) a lot of post about the ignition switch problem mostly on '95's.


They always said that if it was the switch that is the problem, no dash lights come on when it stalls. If it is the PMD, they should come on like when you first turn the key on before starting.





What part of Wisconsin are you in?

Yeah, I did it in the truck. I have a habit of making things harder than they need to be. Fortuneatly I have an incredibly understanding fiance. "Could you give me a hand with something, dear?" Works like a charm, and much more fun to talk to than vice grips.

I did mine in the truck BY MYSELF...what a b*tch. Looking at the wiring harness made me think removing the switch from the truck would be worse. What else is cool is that when you "hang" the little levers before you pop the top w/springs back on you can push the levers with your finger and see what each one does, at least the ones that actually respond, some didn't seem to do anything even though I'm sure they do. In other words I could push one and light the dash, push another one and it would crank...etc.

I just took mine apart and yours looks a lot worse than mine did. Good luck putting it back together, I gave up and bought a new one. Hope that solves your problem, because it didn't seem to make a difference on my truck. Aloha