I live in the land of slush and snow (road salt) What is the best thing to spray/apply to the underside of my DuraMax?

SOme may disaggree but I have run a few plow trucks for over 15 years
and I always spray the undersides of them (rust proofed or not) with
90w or heavier gear oil (straight 140 is good too) using a paint spray
gun and a air compressor. It stinks for a bit but it works well and
disolves rust some. I also spray them again in the spring as problem
areas develop. After a few seasons, you know what to watch. It has
worked real well for me. You want to pay attention to oil coolant lines
and brake lines as well because they are prone to rust too. Brake lines
should be stainless steel in my book but detroit is too "cheap" to do
that.

SOme may disaggree but I have run a few plow trucks for over 15 years and I always spray the undersides of them (rust proofed or not) with 90w or heavier gear oil (straight 140 is good too) using a paint spray gun and a air compressor. It stinks for a bit but it works well and disolves rust some. I also spray them again in the spring as problem areas develop. After a few seasons, you know what to watch. It has worked real well for me. You want to pay attention to oil coolant lines and brake lines as well because they are prone to rust too. Brake lines should be stainless steel in my book but detroit is too "cheap" to do that.


I'd be careful with the oil on the wax coated frame. The oil will strip the wax off and it will rust like mad once the oil is gone.

You can buy the stuff GM uses in a spraycan. Do a search and you'll find it listed here. I think a member here, Hoot, has it listed.





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Amsoil makes a great metal protector. I just started using it but it covers like the GM wax.

SOme may disaggree but I have run a
few plow trucks for over 15 years and I always spray the undersides of
them (rust proofed or not) with 90w or heavier gear oil (straight 140
is good too) using a paint spray gun and a air compressor. It stinks
for a bit but it works well and disolves rust some. I also spray them
again in the spring as problem areas develop. After a few seasons, you
know what to watch. It has worked real well for me. You want to pay
attention to oil coolant lines and brake lines as well because they are
prone to rust too. Brake lines should be stainless steel in my book but
detroit is too "cheap" to do that.


I'd be careful with the oil on the wax coated frame. The
oil will strip the wax off and it will rust like mad once the oil is
gone.






I have not seen this happen yet and after a couple of years the
treatment forms a oil crust of sorts the coats parts well. Besides the
beauty of this method is you spray what rust and start to rust and it
pretty much stops it.

Thanks for the input, will keep you posted.


Joe

I use Krown. Have the truck done every year. And the wife's. My dad has an '94 Fhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley35.gifd and no rust yet. But he keeps it clean, and in a garage. Never waxed. Also low milage.

Krown works great. I have a 91 C1500 with absolutely no rust anywhere.

I've used LPS3 on my vehicles for years here in Minnesota. My father retired from one of the major airlines, and its the same stuff they use to rustproof their aircraft. I buy it locally at a farm supply store.


http://www.marvgolden.com/aircraft-supply/lps3.htm

I've used LPS3 on my vehicles for years here in
Minnesota. My father retired from one of the major airlines, and its
the same stuff they use to rustproof their aircraft. I buy it locally
at a farm supply store.


http://www.marvgolden.com/aircraft-supply/lps3.htm



Yes but they do not use sodium chloride (salt) on runways They
use Magnesium Chloride which is far less corrosive and reacts
differently too. Aluminum does not rust, it corrodes and require
different protection scheme than iron.

What is Krown? Do you apply it yourself or have a body shop or some other shop do it? If you do it yourself, how is it applied, with a spray gun? Any info. would be appreciated. Thanks.

Krown is a type of dripless oil that migrates across metal, it stops oxidation, oxsidation.....oxy..... RUST. There are dealers across Canada, and you can buy the canned stuff..... in Canada


Joe

Actually Krown WILL drip for several days. It also collects all
the dust in the world. They don't directly spray your engine, but
it does get over spray on it. Everything under the truck will be
dirty.



But it is still good stuff. I'm sure if we have it up here, it is available down there.

I tried to find that wax stuff GM uses in a spray can and could not find a place that sold it.

The following is a quote from a TDP post by Cliffee dated 8/03.


"I recently found a source to get the black undercoat (Nox Rust X-121B in spray can)on these new GMC/Chevy frames.
They will sell a minimum 2 cans for $12.00 + shipping.

Automotive Marketing advantage
(818)-780-7600"


I bought several cans at that time and it works great.. Not sure if they are still selling it by the can...

Was at a Krown place getting both vehicles done today. They have
a deal with a local dealer to apply "factory" rust proofing.
There was a Montanna in getting the factory stuff applied.



It is a SEALER. Meaning if there is moisture present at time of
application, it gets sealed in. So it can rust from underneath
the sealer. Also it doesn't cover all areas. And ofcourse
it is wet around here today. Plus it doesn't get applied inside
the panels of the vehicle.



Own opinion is I will stick with Krown.



For those interested.

spraying the undercarriage with motor oil works fine for us in new hampshahttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif

Bet theres a fine involved if you get caught using raw oil. Envirmental types.

Then again......whats the diff between RUST SPRAY and OIL? One is
enviromentally correct. The other polluting the enviroment?

I stopped "rust proofing" my vehicles years ago. Todays vehicles hold up much better than the 70's and 80's. If you take her to the coin operated "power wash" joints once a week in the winter your truck should last a very long time. Nothing worse than working under a grease/oil covered truck! Even better if you have a garage built like my dads with floor drains, he washes his off after every salt run! Don't see many garages built with floor drains anymore! Atleast mine does'nt have them.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif

I stopped "rust proofing" my vehicles years ago. Todays vehicles hold up much better than the 70's and 80's. If you take her to the coin operated "power wash" joints once a week in the winter your truck should last a very long time. Nothing worse than working under a grease/oil covered truck! Even better if you have a garage built like my dads with floor drains, he washes his off after every salt run! Don't see many garages built with floor drains anymore! Atleast mine does'nt have them.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif





Me too. Actually, allof the above are good suggestions, but myself, I'm looking at spraying some stuff insire the doors and rockers. I forget the mfr, but they make inner panel spray and outer panel spray. Weeps into the seams. Next time I'm at the dealer I'll check out the name again...

My truck will be close to ten years old (hopefully) when I'm
done. May help in resale value. May not. Good piece
of mind to future owner, though. Selling feature?





Plus I despise rust on my vehicles.

i agree theyre making em better today, however, not for new hampsha roads ..the melt chemicals they use here are so corosive its unreal..i do not detest...they save lives...but my 2001 sonoma was beginning to rust something fierce...just got its first oil undercoat, yes its messy..but its either a mess or go to the junkyard..http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gif

pappajo if your really Canadian you would use RUSTCHECK , also make sure you spray inside the lateral support bars for the truck bed, while your at it the MAGNEZIUM transfer case will oxidize at the bolts SO GET IT SPRAYED to.


good luck AY or EA. Must correct to eh, thanksEdited by: letsgo

Eh?