Hi there,

I was looking with interest a previous post from dave about his rad cleaning;) .

I decide I've been lazy enough and, instead of complaining about my 6.5 easely heating, it's time for me too to clean my rad and take the opportunity for replacing stock thermostats with 180° from ssdiesel and to install the HO waterpump I get in the hands untill 3 weeks now...

I do believe it will be about a day work for a "standard" doityourselfer and minimum tools, but hope it won't be a PITA (I have seen one of the bolts on the under of thermostat housing that should cause problem :( ) .

One thing I wonder is : do I have absolutely to use this red coolant additive when I'll fill in the rad or another wetter will perform perfect too?
I was thinking yes, but a buddy then a technician from local dealer say I must absolutely use GM wetter to obtain the best cooling performance.
True?

Thank you for your opinion.

When you say wetter are you just talking about the coolant (Dex-Cool) or another additive?

If you're talking about the Dex-Cool, you don't have to use it. Many guys use the green Heavy Duty Diesel coolant.

There are also water wetter additives that you can also add to your coolant/water mix to improve cooling performance.

As far as changing to an HO pump. If you've read any of the posts on this subject by jifaire. He was having cooling issues with his 94. He pulled and cleaned his rad, switched to a severe duty fan clutch, installed a genuie AC Delco t-stat and his problems were solved.

Dave

Based on your location, you don't need any antifreeze. Just use distilled water/ deionized water and a water wetter product like "Water Wetter" by Red Line Oil http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp?subCategoryID=4
Get the regular Water Wetter not the Diesel Water Wetter (diesel version does not contain rust/corrosion inhibitors and must be used with more than33% antifreeze.)

Bear in mind - water wetter breaks the surface tension of the water...any weak points in your cooling system will be exposed in a hurry.....

When you say wetter are you just talking about the coolant (Dex-Cool) or another additive?

As far as changing to an HO pump. If you've read any of the posts on this subject by jifaire. He was having cooling issues with his 94. He pulled and cleaned his rad, switched to a severe duty fan clutch, installed a genuie AC Delco t-stat and his problems were solved.
Dave
I'm talking about additives wich can supply as well as this Dex-cool is supposed to do.
My buddy and the technician were not able to give me an explanation wich can convince me, :blahblah:
but they insist enough so I start wondering why I should eclusively use GM coolant and not the others...:wtf1:
I think my buddy trust only in genuine and not aftermarket, concerning the technician, marketing and business should explain...:nono:

i do believe cleaning the rad will improve cooling. I didn't even thought about it when facing overheating troubles, so simple :rolleyes: ...
I so bought 180° T.stats and HO waterpump. Anyways, these are going to improve cooling too, and, this morning I notice that the body of the pump is wet under, so probably time to change it anyways.

Lifer, thanks for the link! It makes me remember that a local seller here did get them (2 weeks ago) I will check this afternoon.

Do you know why the diesel pattern is made without rust/corrosion inhibitors ? :think:

Bear in mind - water wetter breaks the surface tension of the water...any weak points in your cooling system will be exposed in a hurry.....


mmmmmmm, so just coolant?

My opinion is that Diesel version of Water Wetter relies on >33% coolant because in North America most diesels are in areas that do have annual freezing temperatures, so 50% coolant is the norm+/- 3 sigma. Not so in Encinitas or Noumea. I would prefer to know about a weakness in the cooling system before I hit the long uphill grade pulling my toy hauler at the start of my 4-day weekend.:bawl:

Remember, if mixed the red and green make a horrid sludge in your system. Careful out there.

I use 50/50 mix with Prestone green in everything. I add Red Line "diesel" watter wetter because I do use antifreeze. No probms yet. I just dis-like the Dex-cool **it seems to sludge up on everything.
Best of luck with your decision. Oh yeah I use 195F T-stat. No over-heating issues as of yet, even during my towing endeavors.

Antifeeze/water mix will raise boiling point of coolant .

Extended life coolant is the present/future in cooling technology. If you check the manufactures web sites you will find that they offer extended warranties for your coolong system.I will find these websites and reply back.

I use 50/50 mix with Prestone green in everything. I add Red Line "diesel" watter wetter because I do use antifreeze. No probms yet. I just dis-like the Dex-cool **it seems to sludge up on everything.
Best of luck with your decision. Oh yeah I use 195F T-stat. No over-heating issues as of yet, even during my towing endeavors.

Please define sludge, I have found that a good flush removes all contaminants as well as all past coolant. Also Extended life coolant is compatible with regular (green ) coolant.

Antifeeze/water mix will raise boiling point of coolant .

yes, that's what I've seen on the Red Line water wetter specs sheet. They also say that compared to water, 50% glycol rises boiling point but increases heads temp of +45°F, 70% is up +65°F.

Looks like I should use only water + Red Line water wetter.

The only thing I must find out now is wether the 6.5 cooling system does or doesn't contain magnesium... :think:

If it does, they say I must use antifreeze (see specs at http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf one page 2 in the "use directions" paragraph)

Anybody knows about that? and why magnesium?

see too freezing point depression paragraph

May be 25% coolant + red oil water wetter + plain water should be a good deal?

jlsherr, yes, thank you for the info you could give me about the extended life coolant, I should really be curious to know.

Thanks for the whitepaper link matuva. I checked the MSDS sheets on reg. vs. diesel WW plus the tech info sheets and was surprised at the difference in recommended concentrations. Reg - 1 oz per quart, Diesel = 1 oz per 2.6 quarts. I use distilled water + reg. WW.

Well, just finished cleaning rad, it was full of crap, unbelievable... change the waterpump, finally gave up in changing the T-stats
I put in a mix of water + red line water wetter, will see what it makes...

Now I have to get rid of this low coolant light...

I use Caterpillar ELC extende life coolant. haven't had any problem with it

I think I'll backpedal on the Water Wetter recommendation. I was using it this weekend hauling my 5000 lbs. toy hauler up to Big Bear. This is a fresh rebuilt with cooling system upgrades and a new radiator that's been breaking in and has about 1200 miles on it before this trip. I'm keeping it under 210F by the dash gauge and last weekend took it and the trailer to El Centro for a trial run - no problem. Well, stopped for 30 minutes in Mentone for an A&W burger and was no more than 5 minutes away and starting to climb when the temps starting going above 210F. I down shifted and slowed down but was losing engine power fast. (Should have stopped right then.) Had to stop on a curve with the rig half on the road and the coolant temp approaching 230F.
Coolant was blowing out the recovery tank overflow like Old Faithful. Looks like a blown head gasket on the passenger side. Noticed the coolant recovery tank cap had a decrepit gasket. Engine was reman'ed with Victor Reinz gaskets. Putting a Felpro in now. Sigh - it's expensive to be a bone head.

Lifer you're frightening me.

I'm growing skeptical too about water wetter :

After cooling system maintenance (rad cleaning, new HO water pump, new tight serpentine belt), I refilled with plain water + red line water wetter. The first 2 days, the temperature was a dream : about 176°F at normal usage, 180°F bumper to bumper and study around 188°F hill climbing. I had never succeed in performing such fine results. Then, the things turned back to what they were before : 185°F~190°F normal or bumper to bumper, wich I can accept and get satisfied enough with, but again, it starts heating fast to 210°F when pushing in hill climbing :( .

I don't understand why :confuzeld

After carefully watching the job I did, I notice that the bypass hose (the one from waterpump to T-stats housing) is slightly pinched. The stock one was damaged and I replaced it by a piece of straight hose I had to bend to put in place.

I have ordered a replacement one, and hope it will arrive soon. I will see this week if I can find one at the salvage.

So, it's a true fact that something has happened but what? Trouble with bent hose? Chemical reaction with water wetter? something else?

As soon as I get a replacement hose I will change it, but not sure I will put back water wetter.

I will keep you updated.

By now, does any of you has experienced water wetter? Do you get happy with it?

about 176°F at normal usage, 180°F bumper to bumper and study around 188°F hill climbing. I had never succeed in performing such fine results.


Are these range of temp normal? And so should I work for reaching them again or should I consider they are too low and may be my T-stats are going south?

All water wetter does is break the water's surface tension...allows it to get into closer contact with the metal parts it sits in/beside/on/around....

Have you tried a full cooling system flush?...

I believe your temp should normally be right around whatever your thermostat is rated for. In my case it is 195F. The tstat keeps the water circulating in the block until that temp is reached, then it starts opening and allowing as much coolant as necessary to go to the radiator to be reduced in temperature. It's only when the cooling capacity of the radiator is exceeded that temps start climbing. Not sure what you mean with "bumper to bumper".

Not sure what you mean with "bumper to bumper".

By this, I mean driving slowly caught in traffic, stop and go