Ok got it hooked up, 16 PSI on heavy accel laoded in 'D', no codes, no lights, not sure of cruising pressures but they seem to be around 10 PSI, will know better on the way in to town tonight.


0-60 Still 15 Seconds!!!!!!!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley7.gif

Holy Cow man, still 15 secs??? Are you staging before take-off? Maybe your watch is broken.

Stanadyne Performance Formula and Dual breathers, LOL.

Ok got it hooked up, 16 PSI on heavy accel laoded in 'D', no codes, no lights, not sure of cruising pressures but they seem to be around 10 PSI, will know better on the way in to town tonight.


0-60 Still 15 Seconds!!!!!!!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley7.gif





Give me your address I am going to send you a new stop watch. LOLhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif

Is it something about my name that makes you guys want to make fun of me rather then help? My damn watch is fine!

Is it something about my name that makes you guys want to make fun of me rather then help? My damn watch is fine!


NO Sir and I'm sorry you took it that way. It was only intended to break some tension over the fact that your truck likes to run 15 seconds and nothing else. I, for one don't have a clue but there are other on here that have far more knowledge than I on making a 6.5 fast. I quit timing my cause I don't care how fast it is I still ove the way it pulls and runs down the highway. Once again sorry to have upset you cause that wasn't what I wanted to do.

Not intending to poke fun at you either, same as Bow just trying to lighten things up, I'm just as suprised and baffled as you are, maybe more so! Got the boost, got the fuel, got the exhast....whats your TDC offset set at? just for kicks, maybe just plug the CDR inlet hole and let the CDR vent to atmosphere see if that helps any.

You mentioned before you suspected the transmission might have something to do with it? Maybe have the tranny serviced or top it off with a bottle of one of those shift improver additives. Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

TDC offset, i wish i knew, idiot i took the truck to had a MT-2500 but new little about it for the diesel, cleared a couple of codes and that was it. This pump looks to be a pain to move and without a scan tool and proper tools its probably not a good idea for me to move it.





TDG do you think its possible the optic is just a smidge to far? Did you get my other post about the reving it up and it takes off for a second and then calms down?


Oh yeah, one more thing. No offence taken, just seems most times i post someones gotta make fun of it without saying anything else. I'm here to learn about the 6.5 and for the most part you guy's are more helpful than any place i've been including the dealerships so thanks for that.


Now can we get this truck pulling hard so i can kick some butt in the pull-offs?Edited by: CanadianRigger

What all rigging type stuff you got in the back of your truck?


Toolbox?


What is your final drive ratio?


Want to get the times down, speed up, you need to get it down to factory weight.


3.73 gears will help, 4.10s will kick it.


What you got?


How many miles on odometer?


Wait till Turbine Doc gets back - he can help the guy with the MT-2500


check your timing


check your TDC Offset


check your fuel rate and Fuel Solenoid closure time


etc.

The truck pulled the same times before i added the extra's like tool box, fuel tank (hidden below the tool box), 5th wheel hitch, etc.


4:10's in it already, 100,000 miles, don't worry about the help for the guy with the scanner, its an automotive shop and he doesn't want to do anything engine related with a diesel or even learn, he's happy working on gassers. Axle seals i had done are not diesel related.

Are you still watching the tailpipe? I know it can be difficult to discern changes in smoke quantity, especially with the other mods like exhaust and pot switch, but if you did possibly notice a difference pre/post 'bump' it would be helpful.

Ok - at a hundred kmi it's past due a timing chain, inj pump, and injectors.


In that order.


If all has been done, then you need a good session with a scanner and a knowledgeable operator, or at least one who is willing to take procedural input.


Convince the guy there's money in Diesel Testing and Service.


Tell him you're willing to let him practice on yours for free - you can hardly go wrong with almost instant input from the Place.......

CR,


What postion do you have the pot. on when you start up?

CR,


MT2500s are in just about every shop out there, wish you were closer I'd pop mine on, call around and see if you can find someone a little more helpful, they don't necessarily need to know Diesels, just need to know how to use their scanner. TDC is displayed on the main screen, maybe they guy did not know what the was looking at.


Once you find someone willing with a scanner, more important than TDC offset is timing chain slop, on the display are 2 paramters, timing desired and timing actual, the closer they are the better, >.5 deg delta time to start thinking about doing the work getting your Looneys saved up, get parts & tools ready., do at earliest convenience. More than 1deg delta IMO turns into a must do project asap.Edited by: Turbine Doc

Turbine Doc, thanks for the PM, i'm seriously considering calling, thanks for the offer.


TDG, i related in another post that i thought there was more smoke with the bump, also maybe a little more rattle.


QM, pot switch was @ 0 on startup (all the way CCW). I think i tried it once @ about 1/4. Where should it be around when starting?


GMCTD You are probably right on stuff being overdue, i believe the pump is under warranty to 190,000 kms as my last truck was but i'm afraid i've voided that with the bump, and the cut wires on the map would be a good indicator to a shop its been played with even if i put it back to stock, scanner would give a better indication of pump condition wouldn't it? My biggest problem i have with getting this truck up to snuff is time. I work many hours, i'm up at 5:30 a.m., drive at least 100 km to work, work minimum 10 hrs (last night was 14 hrs) and then drive back home. Some days are better but not many. So i'm trying to do most work to the truck in the field.


Now back to late last nights performance on the way home.


POT set about 1/2


60 MPH - 4 lbs boost - 2100 rpm


75 MPH - 8 lbs boost - 2400 rpm


Step on it while cruising 13 - 15 psi


Load her up, lock it up so it wont downshift and ease the throttle... 17 PSI for a second or two then gradually drops off with speed increase.


Full POT and boost drops to 0. No codes


Full POT idling....and guess what.... my SES light works! Now how can i turn off the SES?





0 - 60 it was dark..... maybe 14 secs but temp here was 4C last night.

Your SES is cleared with the MT2500, but since yours is OBDI it may clear by disconnecting batt and let sit for 15 or so min., Also I think jumping across 2 pins of the ADL port will clear them, someone else will have to pop in I don't remember which pins. Also 40 cycleces and no fault it is supposed to clear itself. Setting the pot to full 0 output is faulting the PCM thinking it's making too much boost and it's clipping for too high would be my guess, 20kPa delta from what the PCM is expecting to see high or low is a fault to the PCM too high a boost PCM is trying to keep from overboost.


If you had a scanner you could watch boost clipping and or fuel clip. Set your boost fooler back to the middle, since you are not intercooled or WMI also coming into play is high IAT at those boost levels which is another regulation point of the PCM. Hot IAT PCM clips boost & fuel. Set your fooler to give 10 psi boost max that is about you can safely sustain without WMI or IC.


If you haven't been here yet www.thedieselpage.com (http://www.thedieselpage.com) you might want to check it out, a lot of 6.2 & 6.5 advise there as well.Edited by: Turbine Doc

TD, He's working on his '00 OBDII model truck.


Full pot at idle tells the PCM you have a partial vacuum present in the intake which trips the SES light.


CR, I can't see how what you've done to the optic should affect your warranty, even if the pump were put on the stand and TAR run on it, Test As Recieved specs are pretty tolerant, 28-32ccs where stock setting is 29.5-30.5, and I'm sure you haven't exceeded that range.

Thanks for that bit of info TDG,


CR you will get more rattle with TDC advance, turning the IP isn't that hard for the bump but access to the nuts on the studs to loosen it up is a PITA, you need to buy or make you some special wrenches to access it, dual themostat housing makes it imperative unless you want to pull it off to have the "rite angle on the dangle" to loosen them. Moving the AC off its mount (don't have to break line loose) gives a little more access.


When I did mine I loosened all and snugged top one between adjusments, you will need a scanner to see where you are after every adjustment, also moving IP alone will not change TDC, you also need to initiate the learn with key on key off sequence & APP to floor.


After I got the TDC where I wanted it, I pulled AC back off and final torqued all back down.

Okie Dokie... Now someone tell me this, i fiddled with the key on/off a few times (5 or 6 times?), farted with the TPS alittle at the same time and *POOF* out went the SES... never disconnected anything?


TD Been to that page before, either i'm doing it wrong or they're setup so you must be a member to simply view what others post, personally i think thats BS for a public forum, one should at least be able to view info so they can decide if they want to be a member, like here. Nothing against them, thats just the way they choose to run it i think. I choose to be here and became a member after reading what was posted. Don't know if it makes sense but thats my story.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif

Not intending to poke fun at you either, same as Bow just trying to lighten things up, I'm just as suprised and baffled as you are, maybe more so! Got the boost, got the fuel, got the exhast....whats your TDC offset set at? just for kicks, maybe just plug the CDR inlet hole and let the CDR vent to atmosphere see if that helps any.


I did that once with my 95, without the vent on the filler tube it blew out the dipstick and 2 litres of oil all over the engine compartment. Yuck! Anyone have a scanner they'd like to sell? Better yet how about a program for my computer and the cable to hook it up?

CR,


The pot. can be at 0 or off at start up for 0 baro offset or as far up as you can run it before you set a code. Turning it up before startup should tell the PCM that you're at a higher elevation than you are and allow even more boost at less rpm.

Thanks QM, i will try that and see if i can burn it up...lol.


Gotta get that pyro hooked up now.


Anyone figure out why my SES went out with fiddling with the key? From what i've read here you need a scanner don't you?

It's possible the PCM no longer sees a fault, after 40 cycles and no fault found it is supposed to clear light but will store the code in the history. Other than that I don know PFM (pure f-n magic) is what we used say in the USN whenever a "black box" fixed itself.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley20.gif

CR


Look around on ebay many shops when closing sell their MT2500, also check with your Snap on dealer he may have a "used but good" scanner he is trying to unload maybe a buy back for upgrade or a repo unit.