hey everybody just found this site looks great,here's my problem have a 2005 6.6 no2 motor, about a month ago the truck starting bogging real bad in trailer mode, fuel filter only had about 1000 miles ,put a new filter everything was fine for two more weeks then it did it again ,put new filter only lasted one day ,I can drive without the trailer mode but stll cant floor it or it will bogg ,any one had this problem thanks kelly

Sounds like you got some bad fuel. Any water in it? I would recommend draining as much as possible and refueling with some good fuel and adding some kind of lubricating additive.
One other possibility--did you recently fill up with biodiesel? Bio will tend to clean the crud out of the system and keep plugging filters until it is clean. I would probably pull the tank and clean it out.

usually you will get a check engine light with a fuel issue like that... but oh well. When you replaced the fuel filter, was there a lot of rust in the bottom of the water drain? Also check your air filter. it could be clogged, or if it is a cheap filter it will get sucked into the intake.

there was no dirt in the system and I dont use bio, the problem was my fuel pump ,the truck only has 52000 but I was told this happens quite a bit it ran fine when cold but when the temp got up no fuel presure kelly

Robert, So you are saying you had it fixed and it was the fuel pump?

at the dealer here, we have only done like 2 of the lly pumps. one being mine because i could. :D
let us know how you make out

well thats what the shop said this morning, now thay are saying it's the fuel pressure regulater, it runs fine when cold but once it's hot it just boggs I do have the edge with attitude and cat exhaust ,plus airaid filter , they also said the edge had nothing to do with my problem I miss my truck kelly

There is no codes in the ECM?

By your description it almost sounds like the effects of a p1093 code which I had & wound up being the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve.

thats the code that came up they tried a fuel rail pressure sensor

thats the code that came up they tried a fuel rail pressure sensor

Ah..

Well with that code the first thing we are to look at is the fuel vacuum at the test port, @ idol it should be around 5 inches of vacuum & @ 2K engine speed should not go above 10 inches of vacuum "any higher vacuum readings then the fuel filter should be replaced to see if the readings get to normal first because of a restriction in the supply & most times is because of the fuel filter being clogged."

If the code is cleared & then they ramp the fuel pressure up "23000psi = 2005 & older or 26000psi = 2006 & newer" the engine should be able to achieve this pressure & hold it till the tech lowers it down again, if the engine is able to achieve this feat & hold it then the Pump & the FRPS is ok.
One of the tests involving the fuel pressure ramping is to remove a rubber return line on the back of the left fuel rail & see if the nipple will leak any fuel there "information states to use a hose attached to the nipple & dirrected to a container to capture any fuel that may escape from there but if there is none coming out of the hose, information dirrects the tech to continue on, I have found along with others ofcorse that if we run that test again but without the hose attached to see if this will produce any fuel at that nipple & in some cases including my own truck it did leak a drop or two & by replacing the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve fixed the issue."

BTW:
I work for a Chevrolet Dealer so I know what the information that this code as well as the next step tells us but of corse just like every where else sometimes either steps are misplaced or just not placed & the tech gets the hard end of it at times...

I will pass this on to my tech he's a great guy and I do know when I get my truck back it will be right ,I have nothing but respect for you techs , these new vehicles I am totally lost when trying to work on them thanks for your help kelly

Ah...
One of the tests involving the fuel pressure ramping is to remove a rubber return line on the back of the left fuel rail & see if the nipple will leak any fuel there ........if this will produce any fuel at that nipple & in some cases including my own truck it did leak a drop or two & by replacing the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve fixed the issue."

...

okay....I've been having FPRV problems AGAIN. This time last year couldnt drive away from a set of lights without RPM's limiting to 2000revs and NO CEL!! Engine in Limp Mode.

The problem with no CEL is that only the Tech II (or greater) can retrieve codes like this. My Cheapie reader can delete the code but cannot read it unless a CEL is commanded. Bottom line dealer replaced FPRV, ran like a champ till a month ago, same problems...still no code.

So I tried the bottle test to check my FPRV, and this is what happened to me:

Ran fine in the driveway, no fuel bypassing. Drove to town, everything fine and dandy. Hooked on a +/-6000lb load enclosed trailer, drove 15 mins and I had fuel pouring out of everywhere...I'm talking a 2" wide trail of fuel down the highway!!!! Pulled over, shut'er-down..

Popped the hood, fuel everywhere!! Overfilled the 1 quart bottle, blew the hose off the fitting I used to connect the bottle...almost resulting in a fire. (hot turbo). The fuel in the bottle was almost hot enough to melt the oil jug (good and deformed now).

So I've come to the conclusion that my FPRV is leaking almost all the time (bad seat??) but not enough to starve the fuel rail / injectors and the pump CAN keep up. However, when I pull heavy I get 1093's on long hills, which the dealer was finally able to witness today....Going in for another FPRV next week.

The hot fuel??? Rail pressures up to 23,000psi can create heat at reliefs/bypass/restrictors (same principle as hydraulics).

My advise when doing the bottle test....check it often!!!

Many programmers that read codes as well as laptop based scanners will show the 1093 code.

well the fprv is new and so far so good hopefuuly no more problems for a long while