I was just wondering....... How often do ya bleed the brake system? I would think the fluid gets pretty hot and crusty after a while....problem is, how do you know when to bleed it out? I wonder how dirty brake fluid affects the system? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/throw%20up.gif


....... just asking? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif

I like to change the brake fluid in all of my vehicles at least every two years.

I'll be putting Synthetic in real soon.





Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif

You should bleed your brakes and put in new fluid every year if you use the cheapo stuff. The problem with brake fluid is it absorbs moisture. This reduces the temperature at which it will boil or turn into gas. If under hard braking, you get the fluid above those temps, you have fade and failure. You push down and you no stopy. Now, there are some fluids out there that are a little more costly, but have a higher "wet" boiling point. The one I use is ATE Super Blue. It is used in Mercedes and other high end cars from Europe. Racers also use it quite a bit. That's how I found out about it, from a racer friend. The thing about having a higher wet boiling point, means it has a higher temp capability. I change out my ATE every 2 years and can realistically go 3 (Mercedes uses a 3 year interval as well). Now, be careful you use a DOT III fluid and not a DOT IV. The type 4 is silicone based and it does not absorb moisture. That sounds really good, but you have steel lines on your brakes and if the water condensates into drops, it will rust through the lines and then you have even bigger problems. Also, so seals might not be compatible with Type IV. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley23.gif


The cheapest thing to do is by a fresh, unopened bottle of the cheap DOT III and flush and bleed your brake system every year. Get a pressure bleeder if you want to 1 man it. Don't buy the super jug and use it for years. It starts to absorb water the second it is opened, if not sooner and should not be used more than a month or so after opening. It is to cheap to risk in an emergency braking situation. I use a better fluid as it is my nature. Do some web searches on brake fluid and you will find LOTS of info on this type of stuff.


On Edit: The dirt causes other problems. It will often form a crusty ring around the pistons at the end of normal travel. If you then push farther than that during bleeding, it can wear the seals and cause leaks. That is another reason to use a pressure bleeder and not the pump method. There was plenty of debris in mine when I first flushed it too. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/throw up.gifEdited by: chuntag95

Can you paste links to the pressure bleeder and syn stuff? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif





Burner------------> http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

So..... does that mean you cannot mix DOT III and DOT 4?


If DOT 4 was used.....what would be the effects? Would the brake pressure be more or less? What about heat? Could you use it and bleed the brakes twice a year for water?

Guys,


I found this at http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-fluids.html after doing a little searching on the web and my books. All credit for this info goes to the previous authors and the above web site. As always, read carefully and use at your discretion. I tried to validate all the info I could but I do make mistakes. Don’t shoot the messenger.


I think the big question that isn’t answered below is that DOT 3 & 4 can be used together but DOT 5 should not, even though all 3 fluids are compatible with each other.


This is some Brake Fluid 101 stuff and in general, is good info.


I have edited this article to remove some non-relevant information.


If this is more appropriate in the DIY category, I’m sure that Eric or Mac will move it.


“The discussion of whether to use DOT3, DOT4, DOT5, or the new DOT5.1 brake fluids is a common topic. The information provided herein should help you to decide which of these brake fluids are best for you and your car.
<H4 style="MARGIN: auto 0in">DOT3</H4>
<H4 style="MARGIN: auto 0in">DOT3 brake fluid is the "conventional" brake fluid used in most vehicles. One of the most familiar brands is "Prestone®." </H4>
Advantages:
<UL =disc>
<UL =circle>
<LI =Msonormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l3 level2 lfo1; tab-stops: list 1.0in">DOT3 fluid is inexpensive, and available at most gas stations, department stores, and any auto parts store. </LI>[/list][/list]
Disadvantages:
<UL =disc>
<UL =circle>
<LI =Msonormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l3 level2 lfo1; tab-stops: list 1.0in">DOT3 will damage natural rubber brake seals and should not be used in any car suspected of having natural rubber seals (most Triumphs prior to 1968). </LI>
<LI =Msonormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l3 level2 lfo1; tab-stops: list 1.0in">DOT3 fluid eats paint! </LI>
<LI =Msonormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l3 level2 lfo1; tab-stops: list 1.0in">DOT3 fluid absorbs water very readily. (This is often referred to as being hydroscopic.) As such, once a container of DOT3 has been opened, it should not be stored for periods much longer than a week before use. </LI>
<LI =Msonormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l3 level2 lfo1; tab-stops: list 1.0in">Since DOT3 fluid absorbs water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders. </LI>[/list][/list]
<H4 style="MARGIN: auto 0in">DOT4</H4>
DOT4 brake fluid is the brake fluid suggested for use in late model imports. The most familiar brand is "Castrol GT-LMA"
<B

Thanks Dave! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley20.gif


That's some good info.





Burner---------------&gt; http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

After reading, I know why to change it and with what....





But what is the best method for changing all the brake fluid? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif

Can you paste links to the pressure bleeder and syn stuff? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif





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....... I quoted myself http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif


Where O'where does it come from? Does JK sell the stuff?





Burner-------------------&gt; http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

A pressure bleeder is the best way to change all of the fluid. You can get these cheap bottles with a plastic tube to go over the bleeder and catch the fluid. There will be a hook or magnet to hold the bottle above the bleed port so no air can get sucked back into the system. Here is the Sears version http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes &amp;vertical=TOOL&amp;pid=00947746000&amp;tab=des#tablink (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&amp;vertical=TOOL&amp;pid=00 947746000&amp;tab=des#tablink)


http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/pressure-bleeder.htm Here is a pressure bleeder and also a link to the ATE fluid. Here is another bleeder http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?it emID=2480&amp;itemType=PRODUCT&amp;RS=1&amp;keyword=PRESSURE %2CBLEEDER (http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2480&amp;itemType=PRODUCT&amp;RS=1&amp;k eyword=PRESSURE%2CBLEEDER) . Do a search on brake pressure bleeder and you will find tons of different kinds and prices.


The $10.90 is a good price for the ATE on the first bleeder site. I use the blue and the gold (same stuff different color) so you can tell when you have bleed completely. One note is the blue will stain the plastic. If that would bother you, go with the gold or Typ 200 as the call it. Normally one can can do a flush and bleed with some left over. Some people like to bleed a second time after a day or two to make sure all the air is gone.


The basic procedure is to use a turkey baster to suck out all of the fluid in the tank. Make sure you have something to put it in and be careful not to drip on any paint.


Fill the tank with fresh fluid.


Then put the rest of the fluid in the pressure bleeder and set up the system and pressurize.


Then go to the right rear wheel. I find putting the truck on 4 jack stands and removing all of the tires makes seeing and doing this easier. Put your wrench on the bleeder and then attach the catch hose. Hang the bottle higher than the fitting.


Crack the fitting and you should see the fluid start to fill up the hose and bottle. Watch to seen when the clean fluid shows up and then close the fitting. Make sure you let it bleed a little longer than when you start to see a color change to get all of the old stuff back out.


Now go to the left rear wheel and repeat. Make sure you empty the little bottle between wheels to save from having to stop mid bleed to do so.


Continue on to the front, right then left.


Now, in theory, you have all of the old fluid out and no air in. Check your pressure bleeder to make sure you are not out of fluid and repeat all 4 calipers just to be safe. This time you are looking to see if there is any air coming out. There should not be but ......


Fill your tank up to the little line and put the cap on tightly. Wipe up any drips and put the wheels back on. Take the truck off the stands and test drive. You should have a good firm pedal, maybe even better than it was. If not, re-bleed.


I hope I haven't confused you. The whole thing should take less than an hour including removing the wheels and reinstalling.


ChrisEdited by: chuntag95

I have never bleed brakes before. Is this a hard process or is what Chris described as easy as it sounds? I doubt my lines have been bled with 76K on them.


Ben

If you remember to go slow so you don't make a huge mess. Remember you want to avoid allowing air back into the caliper and don't let the tank run dry, you are good. If you run the tank dry, you have air in there for sure and have to basically start over. That's one of the pressure bleeders features is a much larger supply so you don't run out.

How does one keep the air out of the calipers?


Ben

If you have a tube on the bleeder fitting and the catch bottle is above the fitting, the bubbles will naturally move up the tube (air rises) and the tube will stay full of brake fluid. You close the fitting before you remove the tube. Then you put the bottle lower than the fitting and pop the tube off so the fluid drains into the bottle. It's not that hard. Without the tube and bottle, you have to crack the fitting and then shut it off with fluid going everywhere. With the tube and bottle, you will see the bubbles come out of the fitting and move up to the bottle. When you see no more bubbles and nothing but clean fluid, you are done.


Does that answer you question?

Yes


Ben

I wonder if old or dirty fluid makes the brakes drag? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif





Burner------------&gt;http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

Swollen seals might make the brakes drag by not returning when pressure is released, but old fluid should not cause dragging.

What about trash? Would trash affect the system....like the ABS or something? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif





Burner-------------&gt; http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

What about trash? Would trash affect the system....like the ABS or something? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif





If you did get some contaminants in the system, it potentially could effect the hydraulic performance, sure.


ABS? I doubt it. The ABS system looks for a stopped wheel and reduces pressure to that wheel. (Simple answer guys). Crap on the chopper wheel, reluctor, whatever to determine that the wheel is stopped? Maybe. I've never had a problem with ABS with exception of my old 1990 Blazer. That one was due to a periodic bad connection at the ABS Module. I would just unplug the connector, hose it down with WD-40, and hook it back up. Good as new, well good enough.


Most brake problems are due to aging components / leakage / sticking parts. Sometimes due to contamination, other times due to just a crappy design.


I would like a little stronger feeling brake on the Dmax, but they really are OK. I have stomped on them and they WILL stop the truck pretty smartly. That's what they are suppose to do.


You can always tinker if you want...

I wish I kew where to order the 5.1 stuff. From the sound of it, it sounds like the best stuff to use. I think, although I may be wrong, that the brakes would be a little more effective and have better feel.





Burner-------------&gt; http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

This was one of the better posts I’ve seen, and it seemed to make sense to me.
<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2467&amp;KW (http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2467&amp;KW=JohnnyO) =JohnnyO

I used the power bleeder below. Very easy and fast, with one person.
Alternating fluids between ATE Super Blue and ATE TYP 200 makes it a No-Brainer. You can also order this fluid from the site below:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html