Well after installing the edge juice with attitude and turbo back exhaust last week, a friend and I finished up with the downpipe install. Here are a few pics of the pipes. We weighted the stock one it was 29lbs, mbrp was 12lbs. can definately feel a seat of the pants difference and the sound is muisic to my ears.

MBRP downpipe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/DSC00264.jpg

AFE stage 2 intake
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/DSC00267.jpg

Attitude mount
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/DSC00268.jpg

Inside the stock cat pipe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/DSC00280.jpg

Crimp in stock downpipe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/DSC00279.jpg

comparison of two pipes
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/DSC00278.jpg

Flange to mount to exhaust
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/664f7da8.jpg

hope you guys enjoy





Here is a another pic with the Duramax with Suburban Door Handles (something a little different) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/DSC00269.jpg



And one more with a painted grill (the chrome center piece was painted). Its dirty, but we just had a hurricane http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gif


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/DSC00282.jpgEdited by: abbo7

handles look really good.....gotta love that exhaust too!!!...its loud!!!

Its not all that loud, the variable vane over powers it. Yea i
think the door handles are the best apparence mod you can do.
They take a little modding for the front passanger side to find
though. These were off a new body style suburban, got them from
the dealership.

more exhaust picshttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/2002bolt/DSC00286.jpg

Good to see some comparrison pics of the downpipes. How do you like the MBRP so far? Any issues from it such as codes? You have an LLY correct? Also did you go with the 409 or 304 MBRP kit?

I like it!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif

how much louder is it?

How long did the install take? and how much louder is it. Can you still go thur a drive-thur without shutting the truck off?? (I used to own a dodge so this is a big plus for me http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif )

install took about 2hours only because i had to keep running back and
forth for tools and i didnt just cut the dp we took it out whole.
Yes you could still go through a drive thru no problem

Abbo, that is what I did with mine with a magnaflow kit. My truck is a california truck and has yet to throw codes, I like the different tone of the truck and I really like the bottom end I picked up.

Abbo7, How did you get the downpipe and cat out without cutting it. I tryed and theres a clearance issue with the transmission and torsion bar.

It can be done. I posted somewhere how I did it. If I find it, I'll repost it here.



Dennis

I think it was pretty tricky compared to the
exhaust. The first part was easy, unbolt the 4-bolt flange at the back
and undo the front end flange clamp and get the front flange free. The
Cat/frontpipe will basically be free at that point and only held on by
the one rubber mount just forward of the Cat.



Now is when it gets a little tricky. I unbolted one of the rubber
mount bolts to allow me to get the rubber mount out. To get the mount
out I pretty much had to unhook the entire exhaust to move it out of
the way so I could have some wiggle room. Once the exaust was out of
the way, I moved the Cat to the rear slightly and got the hanger that
goes in the rubber mount out from inside the bracket, then rotated the
cat upside down so the curve on the downpipe was down and the hanger
was more on the top.



It was a very tight squeeze between that bracket for the rubber
mount (still on the truck) and the cat/downpipe. What did it for me
was I put the nut back on the rubber mount bracket and then put a
C-clamp on top of the bracket and pulled it down to where it touched
the crossmember. That allowed me JUST enough room to slide the cat
forward past the bracket. I had the right side of the truck jacked up
to where the wheel was about a 1/2" off the ground at this point.



The next tight point was between the transmission pan and the
torsion bar. It was a pretty tight fit there as well, but it made it.
By rotating the cat a little and then pulling down on the front end of
the downpipe, I was able to get the first weld (around the front of the
Cat) through the gap, and then I worked the cat forward and around and
got the rear weld out.



It took a while, but as with everything I did it by myself. It can
be done but allow yourself some time to get it done. We had plans to
take the kids to the park later that evening because I thought it would
only take about a half hour or so. It wound up taking a lot longer
(probably close to two hours) so we skipped the park.



You could make it a lot easier by cutting the hangar off the cat,
then you wouldn't have to remove or move the exhaust, and you could
make it easier by cutting the front part off the cat. I always remove
things in one piece if at all possible, because you never know when you
might want to put it back on.



Dennis





Found it.