i recently purchesed a mechanical wastegate control (longer arm) from gomers for $65. i was wodering if this is a good upgrade because i have not read much about it on this site. it calls for you to remove the vacuum cannister and to plug the vac hose with a plastic ball included. is this a safe upgrade? can you use this with a 10k pot upgrade? it comes with two springs one if you have a reflash to adjust between 10 and 15 psi and one spring for stock adjusts to 8psi max. can i put in the spring for the reflash and set it to 10psi with a stock system or will it throw a code? is this upgrade just a waste of time and money? i was starting to to put on a flowmaster crossover and downpipe kit which i got from 21st century exhaust for $86 (thanks for the refferal QM). also a 3 inch exhaust no muffler or cat. i had the air filter box out so i was thinking this is a good time to install the mechanical wastegate control (if it is a good idea). truck is down right now when i was taking off the crossover pipe i broke 4 out of 6 bolts http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif.going to attemt to heat them up and drill them out today. no gaskets came with the kit when i took off the downpipe of the 4 bolt flange the gasket broke into pieces so i will get one today. will i also have to replace the doughnut gaskets on the crossover? any feedback would be grately appreciated. thanks guys

You will first notice that you can maintain boost throughout you accelerations with the mechanical control unlike the computer driven control that GM installed. While towing, and I have a reflashed computer, I hold 8 to 10 lbs of boost on level ground. Boost will go to 14 on a hard acceleration or hill.

Resisting your MAP signal would keep the PCM from giving DTC with boost over 10 psi.


$86 is the best price I've seen on the flowmaster kit. Is that local or online?

QM, sorry i origanally thought it was you who gave me the reference to get the kit for $86 but it was Spindrift.


Spindrift wrote, for the flowmaster downpipe crossover kit, try 21st century exhaust at 800 276 6399, ask for john. they dont have a website. they beat everybodies price.


they are a exhaust wholesaler. i would imagine they have a good price on exhaust piping and exhast tips.


back to my mechanical wastegate questions. can i put the spring for reflash computer in and set the spring for 10psi without throwing a code? is this a good upgrade? thanks

You can put the spring for the reflash and add inline resistance to the MAP curcuit and not get the code but unresisted it will give boost range DTC.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/quantummechanic/2004-09-28_090950_boostswitch4.jpg

QM,


How much boost does your diagram allow before throwing a DTC?

I can not say for sure perhaps 14-15 psi, I'm using a veriable and at similar levels I see no DTC's at 15 psi sustained but If I hold that acceleration it will cut back fuel after 15 sec.

so all i need is a 1k and a 2k ohms resister? i have read on this site that you can put in a 10k pot on the map to make it adjustable. can you post a link to the post which shows how to do this the best way because i have read about 4 different ways to do it on this thread.(mine is a 98). also i read that you can put 5.6k on the baro what does this do? thanks for answering my questions QM

The pot. does the same thing as the spring arm only using resistance on the MAP to increase the vacuum to close the waste gate and has the ability to be turned off from the cab while your're watching boost and pyro levels. The diagram I posted gives you the ability to "set" 15+ psi boost as an acceptable boost level, vacuum or spring. There are precations to take, such as guages to watch your money(in the tank)as it's burning.

where is the map located?i read that you should solder and heat shrink these connections, can i heatshrink over the resisters?

The MAP is on the intake bend under the turbo power cover if you still have it. Shrink wraps will go right over the resistor.