Has anybody changed there gears for better 1/4 mile performance?With the duramax making so much torque is it necessary to change to 4.10 or 4.56 .I'm running 22.5,s on my dually which are taller than stock, and debating where to make a gear change to correct for my tire size.I never drove the truck with stock tires, so I don't know if there was a big performance lose.

It would not hurt but I think I would not go lower than a 4.10 unless you have bigger than 35's or so because of the RPM limitations of the Dmax.

What is the OD of the tires now.


The fast trucks are running 285s which are 33" hi.


Take the gear money and get a big program and some NOS, as u can see it is good for low 12- hi 11 range.


Front e-locker and tie rod/drag link help will be needed too.


Then bigger injectors and bigger turbo.

What is the OD of the tires now.


The fast trucks are running 285s which are 33" hi.


Take the gear money and get a big program and some NOS, as u can see it is good for low 12- hi 11 range.


Front e-locker and tie rod/drag link help will be needed too.


Then bigger injectors and bigger turbo.

The answer is not always more torque yet on driveshafts. There is wisdom in lowering gears some as all things being equal it will reduce drive line strain about 10% (drive shafts, Tcase and tranny) when you got from a 3.73 to a 4.10. In plain english it will take about 10% less driveshaft torque to run a 13 sec ET with 4.1's than 3.73's or you can run a faster ET with same amount of driveline torque. What ever ET you can turn with 33's and 3.73, you will be able to turn it quicker with 4.10's plain and simple gas or diesel. (though gassers like deeper gears yet for ET work)

Why WASTE money for lower gears of .37 ratio.


Guys on here are running 11.7 w/ factory set-up and for 100,000 miles and 150+ runs.


D/A are easy on drive train and running 4X4 on race track.


Yea some gasser w/ a brake and running 7000+ rpm at the line is quite a driveline shock.


Since we have to power brake the driveline is already under strain, so no shock load.


His biggest power loss is going to be the big/heavy wheel combo he is trying to turn.

His biggest power loss is going to be the big/heavy wheel combo he is trying to turn.








Correct, The 4.10 gears will make up for that loss. it will be like 265's w/ a 3.73

IMO, What you might gain at launch you will lose at the top end as the engine runs out of revs. I would stay stock.

Why WASTE money for lower gears of .37 ratio.


Guys on here are running 11.7 w/ factory set-up and for 100,000 miles and 150+ runs.


D/A are easy on drive train and running 4X4 on race track.


Yea some gasser w/ a brake and running 7000+ rpm at the line is quite a driveline shock.


Since we have to power brake the driveline is already under strain, so no shock load.


His biggest power loss is going to be the big/heavy wheel combo he is trying to turn.

Show me some 11.7 trucks with 100k miles and more and no repairs, driveline failures or "mods". (factory stock). I ran into a beatifully restored 1967 302 Z28 Camaro over the weekend at a gas station locally (he had it out for his bi weekly drive) It was factory stock except the owner had installed a roots type blower under the factory dual 4 bbl setup running about 12 psi boost and factory 4.56 gearing and a 9500RPM redline. (those 302's were BAD!!) The owner claimed it would do high 10's in a quarter and I have little doubt it would seeing the ease at which it pulled the front wheel on launch and going into 2nd gear. That car had POWER!!! Very few street vehicals could touch that car on a quarter mile and evena viper could not come close.