What is the conventional wisdom on where to place the jack and jack stands on a 2500 HD when performing a tire rotation. Is it ok to place the lifting floor jack on the rear axle and/or front A-frame to get the tires off the ground? I tried to jack at the mid-point on the frame but ran out of jack lift height (15 in.) and lift power with a 2 ton floor jack and the tires still were not off the ground.

First, you need a larger jack, like 3+ ton. Place the jack under the pumpkin, raise and slide stands under the axel. Remove jack and replace under front of truck. Swap wheels ft to rear...........easy as pie. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif





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Pull it on hoist and raise whole truck up, take tires off and move to next position http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Where, specifically, would you place the jack and stands for the front? And thanks, Tim, but the condo management nixed my request to install a hoist in the parking lot.

Ok, I don't use the stands for the front. If you don't have an impact it's rather difficult to get the 140 ft lbs of Tq while the wheels are "in the air" so to speak. The stands should be placed just inside the springs on either side of the rear axel. Remove those tires first.....then go to the front. Lift the front and swap tires. Just remember to stick "both" tires on first and then torque them down, you'll do this for safty. Do not bother with the caps until you have finished the full rotation and torque.





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I used the jack stands on the back and a floor jack on the front one at a time and tightened to 100 ft/lbs did the final torque to 140 all wheels with the truck on the ground.

I'm paranoid as heck about working on anything just supported by a jack. Only took 1 time of something coming off a jack to make me paranoid lol. I loosen the lugs while the tires are on the ground, then jack the front on the frame below the doors one side at a time and place jackstands toward the front of the frame just before it begins to curve upwards. Then move the jack to the rear and lift up the under the diff and place jackstands on each side axle tube.

Heres what I did....... one side at a time. Jack using frame of truck, just behind front wheel. Install axle stand beside jack. Same for back.

I have been told to NOT use the rear differential. Could warp or crack. Do not use front cross member in the front end. Could bend or crush?

You've got to be kidding? Look closely at the pumkin, it's got a deflector on it for when you "case out" the thing. I douubt you'll bend or snap the thing. Maybe you could.... if there was 6,000 lbs in the bed... maybe, but I still doubt it. And the cross member bending? Man....... I'd be flat out scared to drive my truck if I thought it was that weak. Don't worry so much about the truck....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

I have been told to NOT use the rear differential. Could warp or crack. Do not use front cross member in the front end. Could bend or crush?
shop manual shows the middle of the pumpkin as a lift point.

Jim

The rear is a no-brainer. Due to min equipt capacities, I do only a corner at a time ~ have had a kid jump in when car sitting on a single, central (balanced) point ~ the moment of the door and the bouncy teenager shifft that side down. Anyway the front is different ~ not wishing to bend a cross member (4000#s on front axel) nor frame because it removes the undercoat (yeh picky, picky) I use a floorjack on the lower arm near to the wheel as poss and after its up enuff, slip/wedge a jackstand in but keep wgt on the jack. Then do the other side in like fashion ~ each to his own.

Someone posted in another thread about the front cross member. They had bent it in a single point lift, using a floor jack.

Is there a single point lift for the front?

Someone posted in another thread about the front cross member. They had bent it in a single point lift, using a floor jack.

Is there a single point lift for the front?

My 04 shop manual shows the center of the front cross member. As they say, YMMV.

Jim

As everyone said, the rear is a no brainer; lift at the pumpkin. For the front, I placed the floor jack on the front of the lower arm to lift the wheel off the ground. I then inserted a wood block under the lower arm from the rear and released the jack. Works just fine. Would also like to point out I accepted the recommendation to get a heavier model floor jack. Got a Michelin (made in China) 3 1/2 ton floor jack at Sam's club for $60. Should have bought this the first time. It also has a 22 in. lift as opposed to the much lower height (14 in.) of the 2 ton jack.

Got a Michelin (made in China) 3 1/2 ton floor
jack at Sam's club for $60. Should have bought this the first
time.



Where in the UP of MI is there a Sam's Club??? The Soo?? Marquette??



Rob

Good guess, Rob, but the borders are still open and I got it in Wausau WI.

Good guess, Rob, but the borders are still open and I got it in Wausau WI.



That's cheat'in!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gif

What happens if you have 3 floor jacks in your garage. I use one under the pumpkin and two in the front; tire rotations usually take less than 30 minutes including a beer! Those Michelin jacks are very cost effective also!

I spent $12.50 a tire and got the lifetime rotation and balance at Discount Tire. I stand there and make sure they do it right.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/hihi.gif I even am so brazin as to take their torque wrench away and check the setting.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif

chuntag95, I like your way,,,


aftering retiring after 49 years in auto and Pickup service...


1st thing each morning I did was to check the torque on the hand torque wrenches.... you would be surprised how fast they get to the point that they have to be repaired or replaced.... make sure and feel for yourself as to if you think the wrench is feeling right... most places only check them when someone complains... then it to late.....


guess you could say, this is a touch spot for me, but when other people's life are at stake??????

Thanks for the 140lbs info!, I use an air impact with 90psi at the gun this gives me a little over 100lbs on the lugs checked with my clicker (good for most vehicles). I need to bump up the psi at the gun or retorque them dmax lugs! Course its been about 5,000 miles since I rotated and the wheels have not come yet!

140lbs seems pretty high for aluminium rims? Not doubting that's the
correct number just not used to cranking alum rims that high.
Mine look to be aluminium anyways http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley25.gif

not just aluminum rims.... they are forged. BTW, the Ford aluminum rim TQ spec is 150 ft lbs.