Okay, lets say you have now have $500 handed to you to get an air intake kit for your truck. What are the top 3 kits to look at, and what kits do you stay away from (Please tell me why)

Keep in mind the preference should be on filtration rather than flow. If a filter has poor filtration, then who cares how much it flows (which would only let in more dirt anyway)

Choice number 1: stock, buy yourself $500.00 worth of beer.


Choice number 2: stock, buy yourself $500.00 worth of Edge Juice or other such 'go faster' product.


Choice number 3: stock, buy an exhaust or gauges, and pocket the change from $500.00.


Read the following post:


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10642&KW=air+filter+study


On the other hand if you want something that will sound a little better than stock, the AFE pro guard II is supposed to whine like a banshee in the words of another member (can't remember who, McRat or Ratlover I think). I don't own one so I can't tell you, but for me, the stock filter is just fine.


Dennis

okay .......... so I spent $200+ on a very fine whistle......http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif Edited by: Blinky

PPE has a pretty nice intake called the "Superfilter". It is a radial sealed unit that uses a paper element from donaldson. Although it is not a oiled guase or any other crap the surface area is almost twice as large as the stock filter so the resistance will be reduced plus it will help protect your engine better then of the others like K&N, or AFE.

so is there a certain hp level that you obtain where an intake that flows better will help ? or is sky the limit in regards to the amount of air that is available on the oe unit ? in other words, is there and at what point does not getting enough air become a problem or will it not be with these engines ?

An engine is an air pump.........


Engine builders will always say more air in = more power in theory.


The results of an aftermarket air intake have been argued about here in several threads as well as efficiency of air filtration..........


Bottom line is this..........I like the whistle, I feel I get a better spool up.........maybe just SOTP...........


Superdiesel runs a stock box and made tons of HP.........


So go buy an expensive whistle............





Thttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifNY

An AFE flows a hell of alot more on the bench but its kinda debatable weather there is any actaula increase in performance. I made quite a few runsa at the track a few weeks ago and saw 0 gain or loss but more testing is in the works. It cant hurt. I'm keeping one for a race peice and for when i want to go make noise. Does scream thoughhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


If you want the all out best dirt stopping and good performance stay stock(maybe swiss cheese it)


JMO


Were you at? You may be able to meet up with somebody at a GTG ot something and they may let you road test one.

I haven't done any back to back dyno testing, but the AFE II did show definite gains on the flow bench in independent testing. The PG 7 element did drop flow (and noise) a measurable amount...

Choice number 1: stock, buy yourself $500.00 worth of beer.


Choice number 2: stock, buy yourself $500.00 worth of Edge Juice or other such 'go faster' product.


Choice number 3: stock, buy an exhaust or gauges, and pocket the change from $500.00.


Read the following post:


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10642&KW=air+filter+study


On the other hand if you want something that will sound a little better than stock, the AFE pro guard II is supposed to whine like a banshee in the words of another member (can't remember who, McRat or Ratlover I think). I don't own one so I can't tell you, but for me, the stock filter is just fine.


Dennis








http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


Could not have said it better myself!


Bill

I wonder why all of these companies are claiming hp/tq gains on their intake systems for the diesels. So far, everyone here that has tested these intakes on the dyno haven't seen any difference.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif

So they can sell a product to you that makes you think it will work. It sounds good in theory to everyone who is buying the filter. It is a good marketing gimmic, heck I even bought one. It makes the turbo sound good though, but if I knew then what I know now I wound have kept my $200+.

The high flow/low restriction filters do work on normally aspirated engines, BUT in most of our trucks it's the wastegate that controls the max amount of air the engine get's, not intake restriction. I believe that's why you see no more power on a dyno or no lower times at the track. But that's just an opinion.

I think most of the testing has been done on milder setups. It may make more of a difference with hotter trucks.


I an AFE becasue it cant hurt. I figure it may help on a hotter set up. And I can ice the dude down between rounds(probably wont really help but may add to some consitencey) since I could barley hold onto the plastic itake since it was so freaking hot! Aslo I love the wistle and keep wanting to put it on my truck for daily driving cuz it sounds coolhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif I run a stock box daily though.


I will be trying some more testing on a bigger set up.


I have just a used tube that I would get rid of for cheap if any one wants to score a filter and the little rubber boot. Might be cheap for testing type purposes.


JMO

While that was a funny quote, it wasn't mine. My .02c on the Killer Intake Urban Legend:


GM has been very good at picking "low-hanging fruit" for a number of years now. A while back, it was easy to increase HP by changing simple things like aircleaners and mufflers.


Since the "new" HP war has started, GM is looking everywhere for HP. If a simple filter change gains power, they do at the design stage. Ditto on the muffler.


You WILL gain some HP with a well designed intake or muffler, but the amount of power left on the table by GM is trivial when compared to the gains other mods (boxes, tuning, propane, N20, water/meth) are making.


You could calculate the max amount of HP available on your engine from an intake swap. Measure the absolute air pressure preturbo at WOT max RPM using the stock box, and measure the absolute air pressure outside. The ratio between these would be the MOST gain possible by reducing intake restriction, although you would never get all that gain.


Cold air probably would help somewhat though. If you can get the air from outside the engine compartment, you could see a gain.

McRat,


Well said. I bet your Z06 didn't make hardly any more power with just a different exhaust did it? Certainly not like 20 Hp I bet. Lot's of little things add up in the long run, though. Every little bit helps.


Dennis

McRat,


Well said. I bet your Z06 didn't make hardly any more power with just a different exhaust did it? Certainly not like 20 Hp I bet. Lot's of little things add up in the long run, though. Every little bit helps.


Dennis





Switching from a stock muffler on our Z06 to no muffler (Corsa Competition system) gained 6rwhp from 3000-7000rpm. Not much when you consider it costs $1000.


Our "stock" Z06 was a bunch of little items that brought the HP from 358 to 388. None made a huge gain, it was just small gains adding up. It blows me away that the diesels can get HUGE gains with one simple mod.

Amazing. . . 30 Hp, I don't even want to hazard a guess as to how much you've spent on it, and to think that for under seven bills you can add 120 Hp to this thing. . . it does blow you away.


Dennis

I had a 1994 25th anniversary Trans-Am that I also bolted aftermarket parts on. I added a cold-air intake with K&N filter, Hypertech programmer, 160 thermostat, underdrive pulleys and Borla exhaust. Cost was about $1500 for 30-35hp. The cost for pulling this much horsepower and torque out of a diesel is indeed a bargain.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


The cars I have now are still all stock, except for a drop in K&N filter. Supercharging is the way to go on a gas, but at $6000 for installation it's quite a bit more expensive for that 150hp.

I don't think you guy's are getting the point. You will increase boost 0, nada, none. No increase in boost = no increase in air flow. You MAY get to the point at which the wastegate opens a few RPM less, but you will not increase max boost. Now cold air induction will increase air density so that while boost pressure will remain the same there would be more air molecules in a given volume. (definition of density of course). Which should gain power.


So they are in effect an expensive whistle as earlier stated. Now if you like the whistle and they way they look when the hood is raised and can afford it, get one. Just don't do it for a gain in performance, there isn't one.

I don't think you guy's are getting the point. You will increase boost 0, nada, none. No increase in boost = no increase in air flow. You MAY get to the point at which the wastegate opens a few RPM less, but you will not increase max boost. Now cold air induction will increase air density so that while boost pressure will remain the same there would be more air molecules in a given volume. (definition of density of course). Which should gain power.


So they are in effect an expensive whistle as earlier stated. Now if you like the whistle and they way they look when the hood is raised and can afford it, get one. Just don't do it for a gain in performance, there isn't one.





If the turbo has less resistance on the intake side, it reduces the backpressure on the exhaust side. This is why you make less HP at high altitude with a turbo. You are "using up" HP on the exhaust end by making the intake side work harder.


Granted, HP losses on turbos are far less than NA engines, but they still exist.


If the stock box was truly restrictive, you would see some valuable gains even on a turbo motor. Problem is, there is no problem.

FWIW, the altitude at which sea level power can no longer be maintained is refered to as the critical altitude. The reason that power is lost above the critical altitude is that air density is so low that the turbo can no longer compress it to the pressure that the wastegate is set at. Admittedly a condition that would show marked improvement would be an overly restrictive induction or exhaust for that matter, but the days of poor engineering in those areas are gone, hopefully never to return. Changing the subject on you but using this as an example. Once upon a time great gains could be found in a 4 cyl jap bike by installing a racing exhaust, canning the air box and correcting the jetting. Do this on a modern bike and very little if any power will be found. Racing exhausts are now installed to lose weight and increase ground clearance.


Only point I was making is that these aftermarket intakes will NOT increase power output. In days gone by I'm sure they would have. So if it's power your after, save your money and buy the Juice or some other programmer.