I have a 2004 2500 HD crew cab short-box. The truck still has factory wheels and the famous "pizza cutter" tires. When I got the truck, I replaced the brackets on the back so that the truck sets 2.25" lower in back. Then, I relaxed the torsion bars and brought the front down 1.5". I did this while it was on an alignment rack and then drove off. This with 2000 miles on the truck. Around 8000 miles, it needed aligned again so I took it to the dealer and they aligned it at no charge. Now, it has 12,000 miles on it and needs aligned again. Each time, it ends up pulling to the right. My question is, why isn't it holding the alignment? I haven't hit anything with it and I don't drive off road. It's got nothing but hwy miles and still the alignment is out. Any help would be appreciated.

My guess is that because of the geometry change in front end (lowering it) you are pushing the limits of its adjustments and quite possibly something is "slipping" in settings. Get a print out of alignement specs before and after alignment and make sure they tighten everything down. And if it goes out again, compare the past readings and look for a "pattern".

Properly aligned vehicles should 'drift' slightly to the right on most roads in America, this is due to the 'crown' engineered in most roadways to facilitate drainage. Most vehicle specs call for identical caster readings on both front wheels (although some techs will 'compensate' for the crown by increasing the caster angle on the passenger side, or decreasing on the drivers, for 'complaining" customers). Adjusting a caster angle (which is described as "the axis of the ball joints/steering knuckle to a vertical line"), that is largely responsible for forward directional stability (or "pulling"), to compensate for other forces is not uncommon, however it is certainly not recommended. As alignments are a 3 dimensional procedure (caster,camber,toe), the mis-adjustment of one aspect will have an influence on the others over the broad area in which they forced to operate. Just remember that the 'specs' really are just a 'happy medium' that manufacterers must settle with, after all, they don't build the roads (racers "tune" their suspensions to meet each tracks demands for optimum performance, albiet at the cost of tire wear). & after considering all this, something as simple as a defective tire (such as one with a 'belt shift') could also cause a vehicle pull.


In short, finding a competent alignment shop isn't easy, some go only by the 'book', some will work with the customers needs/requirements to obtain resolution, & some others will do whatever it takes to keep the customer "off their backs". If you can locate a competent shop that will work with you, your troubles will soon be over. Raised vehicle, lowered vehicle, whatever.


Keep looking for that shop, & best of luck...... Edited by: Loki_nine

Good post Loki_nine. I used to be a front end mechanic years ago. It was a common practice to set the left side caster & camber on the desired setting. The right side would get 1/4 degree less camber and 1/4 degree more positive caster. In our area this worked fine. My truck pulls slightly to right now because the Tech set both wheels the same. I had pulling problems with the original tires. Two slipped the belts causing a pull. I learned that one in the early 70s with the first Michelins. Later! Frank

Yes good point about caster differentail as I remember this trick from many years ago. But, I do not think it is as much a issue as before as most roads are not crowned as much and most interstates not at all (they might tilt a bit one way of the other but not crown) Also, "ruts" over depressions in the road form increased semi traffic is the newer challange for front ends. I have a 89 4x4 burg that I have had since new that has never been aligned (I might have tweaked the "toe" myself once years ago but I am not sure) On a good road it still tracks straight as a arrow and it is possible to drive "hands off" for up to 30 seconds or more on a good interstate road and never leave its own lane. My 2000 K3500 was nearly as good but something has shifted in the last year and it needs its first alignment now.