How can you tell if my OEM boost controlled is working correctly and not messed,it is on vehicle below.

Well I would think gauges would tell you .

Well I would think gauges would tell you .
Duh, head in ass, lol.

I believe there is info in the FAQs about wastgate operation and how boost works.

OEM wastegate is controlled by vacuum pump. When truck is running at idle you should should not be able to move the wastegate arm at the canister (it will be sucked up into the canister).

Do a search for wastgate and you'll find posts about testing for proper vacuum levels at the various locations.

Another tell tale sign if you are getting proper boost or not is heavy black smoke under acceleration. Black smoke = too much fuel, not enough air.

Dave

This truck has no black smoke, well under hard acceleration it may have a haze but nothing abnormal.

Is there something that is happening to make you think the wastegate is not working properly?

A puff of black smoke under hard acceleration is normal, constant black smoke is not.

If you're having some sort of issues let us know, possibly go through the diagnostic check list and report the results. Do a search and do some reading. There is tons and tons of info on this site. I learn something new everyday by searching and reading old posts.

Dave

Everything is fine just wondering, want to get as much out it for what I have mod wise. I know exhaust will help tremendously which is plan in nmext 2 weeks but no $$$ now.

OEM wastegate is controlled by vacuum pump. When truck is running at idle you should should not be able to move the wastegate arm at the canister (it will be sucked up into the canister).
Dave

Dave..I checked mine last night. At idle I can push the rod up into the canister and it will fall back down. Does this mean mine isn't working? My local parts house has the wast gate soleniad in stock, should I start there?

thanks

Check out the turbo info stuff in signature line and in FAQ's. Wastegate solenoid is a common problem, but not the only problem. Vacuum pump failure, and leaks will cause similiar issue. Read up before replacing parts.

x2 for what Kreb said.

Dave

Check out the turbo info stuff in signature line and in FAQ's. Wastegate solenoid is a common problem, but not the only problem. Vacuum pump failure, and leaks will cause similiar issue. Read up before replacing parts.


Absolutely.... get a vacuum gauge ( SS diesel sells a nice setup for Vac and fuel pressure, or just go to a local service station.

Start at the vacuum pump. especially if you hear any noises or " air coughing" sounds that you've never notice before, especially at idle.

There is a sensor on the driver side mounted on the intake manifold just aft of the main intake plenum (where it goes into the intake)

on the you will see a smal wiring harness and on the other side a rubber connector with two plastic hoses. one should be black and the other orange.

1.make sure they are connected.
2. you can quickly pull the orange hose off and even use your finger to see it you feel any vacuum.... if you don't feel anything - then it's a broken vacuum line or more likely your vacuum pump which is located under your alternator on the Pass Side.

if you have vacuum at the orange vac line then proceed...

work your way from there but it is probably sensors... you can also pull the vacuum line off of your wastegate and if you do not feel vacuum there even with your finger, then work back and replace sensors... if you do feel vacuum and the wastegate does not move when you hook it back up... BINGO!

Absolutely.... get a vacuum gauge ( SS diesel sells a nice setup for Vac and fuel pressure, or just go to a local service station.



Most auto part stores carry diagnostic vac/press gauge about $20, mandantory piece of test equipment IMO

Most auto part stores carry diagnostic vac/press gauge about $20, mandantory piece of test equipment IMO

For the Canucks in the house.....Princess Auto, $20. It's everything you need for doing these tests.

Dave

Did some work last night and this is my findings. I traced the lines and did find a leak on the orange one. I fixed that and I noticed the arm on the waste gate would rise but still not all the way. I picked up a vacum gauge and this is the results. I put the gauge on the orange line and the needle wint to 6 (not sure if that is psi or what), I put the guage on the the black line and the needle just bairly moves. (checking at the canister that moves the arm) This tells me I am loosing vacum at the waste gate soleniad.

So I am down to either a bad soleniad or what ever controls the soleniad? What do yall think.

thanks

With a 3500, you should not have an EGR. Read as an F engine. The only thing that is attached to the vacuum pump is the wastegate system, (maybe the HVAC controls too, have to look for that one. If you are hooked direct to the vacuum pump and only reading 6" vac, (inches of Hg) then your pump is bad, or you have a leak between your pump and the gauge you have hooked up. If you get a solid 20+" of vac, then pump is good, solenoid is suspect.

If no HVAC controls in vacuum system you could always opt for a spring wastegate controller system instead of vacuum pump system.

With a 3500, you should not have an EGR. Read as an F engine. The only thing that is attached to the vacuum pump is the wastegate system, (maybe the HVAC controls too, have to look for that one. If you are hooked direct to the vacuum pump and only reading 6" vac, (inches of Hg) then your pump is bad, or you have a leak between your pump and the gauge you have hooked up. If you get a solid 20+" of vac, then pump is good, solenoid is suspect.

If no HVAC controls in vacuum system you could always opt for a spring wastegate controller system instead of vacuum pump system.

you confused me a little. If I have vacuum before the soleniod and very little after then wouldn't the soleniod be bad?

Also...you have hit on somthing that I didn't think was worth saying. My AC quite working about the time my Turbo did. I didn't think the two where related. How can I find out about ac controls?

thanks

Check out to see what is connected to your vacuum system. I didn't even realize that mine was vacuum HVAC controls until I found my wastegate acting funky. Found line broke. Found also a "T" going off of the wastegate solenoid line going somewhere. That somewhere was HVAC controls. Nothing worked then. Still have weak pump, but enough to operate the controls for now. New pump pending for me, I think, can't get right into the back of the pump with the van setup for troubleshooting process to make sure of pump, and not a leak.

So, here's how it goes

Pump (most vacuum) test at the pump if accessable 20+" Hg Vacuum
next stop wastegate solenoid (and maybe a T for HVAC) vacuum level drops. (lesser number on Hg Scale).

The wastegate solenoid has a vent in it. It alternates between vacuum and vent to maintain the proper vacuum level in wastegate actuator for boost. That's why you may see less vacuum level after wastegate solenoid than before. But before solenoid should be strong.

Thanks..you've been a big help.

I did find another vacuum leak and I have gotten the vacuum up to 15+hg. before the solenoid and it jumps so much it's hard to read after. However my wastegate actuator is now working. It has pulled the rod up and I am unable to push it down.

What i've learned is...most likely my vacuum pump is going bad (unless Ifind another leak) I don't know how long it will work at 15hg's. But for now it is working.

I am looking at buying the upgrade from Heath.

thanks again.

Did you have HVAC controls on the vacuum system too? A turbo master would be a slam-dunk if you didn't have to contend with that.