JJ's Dumax is on a tight budget, for now. However, I need to do something about the stiff ride in my 3500 4x4. The front suspension is liveable, but the rear needs serious dampening or something to get rid of the "launching your a$$ through the roof if you hit that lil bump" affect!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif


To minimize costs I'm considering changing out just the rear shocks to the Rancho 9000's. Plus from what I've read the front ones are such a pain in the a$$ to put on and I'm meck-anickel-ally challenged! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


Will this adversely affect my ride, any safety issues/concerns? Nobody will know but ole JJ! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif JJ

Fronts are a simple job....if you put half the stuff from your sig on yourself, you can handle it. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif an hour...tops


As for the rear...what tire pressure you running empty? Most guys keep theirs at about 45-55 when empty. If that doesnt help, try putting some weight in the back..maybe couple hundred pounds. Try this first before you spend $$ on shocks....like you said, you're on a tight budget.


Lots of people have posted about this. Just search.


Tom http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pig.gif

Thanks for the reply. I carry about 800lbs in the bed with a 20k fifth wheel hitch, tool box loaded with tools, ramps, etc. When I put the 5ver's 3500lb pin weight on it the ride is excellent. Carrying the 5ver around isn't a viable option, SSSSSSSSSSOOOOOOOOOOO? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


I'm running the duallies in the back at 65psi. I tried them at 50psi for a while, but it really didn't seem to make a big difference on bumps. I'll try it again to see. The front shocks have been described as a PITA on several posts, especially on the 4x4's. Hmmm? I can live with the front suspension the way it is and I'm comfortable doing the rears.


I'm more concerned about safety, ride quality using different shocks, those types of issues. JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

In the long run it'll be less moey to just buy all four and be done with it. I, like many others went with bilstens from Kennedy Diesel, 260 shipped, HUGE difference in the ride...

JJ,


My bad...I'm thinking SRW, not dooley. I agree with Blue Ox...just spend the $260 and be done with it.


Tom http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pig.gif

Yup, the Bilsteins are worth every penny. Even my wife noticed the diff first time out.

I did the front shocks in about 30 minutes. They are very easy. Did the rears in about 30 too. No need to remove wheels.

FOr the fronts, take of the top bolts, then crank the wheels right all the way to the lock, and do the bottom of the driver's side from the rear of the tire. Crank the wheels the other way, and do the bottom of the passenger side. Then straighten the wheels and do the top bolts.

Marc

I found the Bilsteins to be just what I needed for the front end to take care of bouncing, but I found them to be too firm for the rear. I kept the fronts, returned the rears (minus 20% restock charge) and am back to OEM's in the rear. I run the rear tire pressure at 45lbs. I may try the Rancho adjustable shocks for the rear if I swap them again. Having 800 lbs in the rear may be causing the overload leaf to be in contact with the rest of the leaf pack. Have you tried removing some of the rear weight to see if it helps?


Front shock installation is very easy if you turn the front wheels all the way to the stops. Just be sure you have the right size wrenches before starting (sorry, I cannot remember the sizes). I also used the OEM rubber cushions instead of the Bilstein cushions on the front shocks.

JJ,


I just swapped out my stock shocks for Bilstein's yesterday. Immediate noticible difference. I got mine from eshocks.com for $265, free shipping. They are worth every penny!!!


As for the front install, took me about 30 minutes. If the body of the shock spins while attempting to loosen the nut, just put a pair of vise grips on the very top of the post and loosen the nut. Sometimes you can loosen it without the shock spinning simply from the weight of the truck on it. I used a pair of vise grips and a ratcheting wrench for the top posts. Hope this helps.

The shocks aren't hard to put on and they really are among the most cost effective improvements you will make to the truck. For me the biggest benefit came from the front shocks because California's lousy roads had the thing bobbing down the road like a Marry Go Round horsey.

TC

The front axel is twice as heavy as the rear in unloaded condition. I would suspect the rears to be hard/stiff under empty conditions. Suggest a change in rear tire pressure or/and a set of adjustable Ranchos and be done w/it.