The time has come! I have had the truck for 4 months now.

Started taking apart the truck today, 4 hours and the whole front is off. Hood, quarter pannels, whole radiator core support, fuse box disconnected from cab. Next step is to raise the cab and push the frame forward. Disconnect the fuel lines and anything else associated with the truck. Then the Yukon goes on the chop block. I am guessing about the same amount of time to prep the Yukon, 6 hours. Then the fun begins.

While I was taking the truck apart I happened to look at the compressor blades on the turbo. About half of them have chips on the tips. Is it ok to us this turbo or is this a sign that it needs rebuilt. I drove the truck and it spooled up fine and pulls real nice, no strange noises. Also got the oil analysis back yesterday, no diesel or anti-freeze in the oil so it is good to go for now.
Will take a little extra time putting it together to install a 4" Banks exhaust. Then EFILive to give it a little boost in power, but not too much as I don't want to get into the tranny. Will put in on a dyno soon.

Will try to document the conversion.

Would you mind if i came over some time,and checked this out? im in nampa,and would love to see this. Cody

Cool I'm really thinking of doing one myself when it comes time to replace the wife ride.

Had an oil analysis done on the engine while it is still out of the Yukon, you know just to check things out.
No fuel, no water, other than that I don't know what it means. Those of you with experience could you help me out by decyphering this report?

This is from a different company, but it may help you understand where things should, or should not be. http://www.oaitesting.com/g2047.pdf

As I read it, I get:

It looks like your Al is slightly elevated at 16 ppm where 10 is normal, 15 is abnormal, and 25 is BAD

Your Si is off the chart, which means you probably got some dirt in the sample when you took it.

Your Fe is between abnormal and BAD (100, 300)

Your Cu is also between abnormal and Excessive (50-150).

The company recommends you change the oil and check it again in 3000 miles. As I understand it, half of oil analysis is about trends, and the pdf I referenced states plainly that levels will vary. I don't know JACK about oil analysis, so don't take my interpretation of your results against that document to mean anything important. You can see the wear metals chart and what they MAY be from. How many miles do you have on the oil?

I have no history on this oil.

Well, sounds like you'll have to begin one 3k after you change the oil.

I removed the wiring harness from the donor last night. Seems the fire got to more of it than I originally thought. This harness will not be able to go back into the conversion. Now I need to figure out how to convert the Yukon harness to run the duramax. Biggest differences I see are Electric Fuel Pedal, Cruise Control, and possibly guage cluster. I have already tracked down the Fuel pedal harness and it can be removed from the truck and inslalled into the yukon as a complete seperate harness. Now I have to find the wire for the cruise and guages.

While removing the cab I went ahead and took some shots of the turbo, tell me what you think. About half of the blades have chips in them and all of the blades are worn. Does anyone have a turbo sitting around that needs a good home?
Have been collecting wiring diagrams, and I think I almost have the wiring figured out. Minimal changes to the Yukon harness will make it compatable with the dmax, and 100% of the Yukon will work right.
Onward and upward.

While removing the cab I went ahead and took some shots of the turbo, tell me what you think. About half of the blades have chips in them and all of the blades are worn. Does anyone have a turbo sitting around that needs a good home?
Have been collecting wiring diagrams, and I think I almost have the wiring figured out. Minimal changes to the Yukon harness will make it compatable with the dmax, and 100% of the Yukon will work right.
Onward and upward.

Your sig;
2001 Yukon XL 2500 4X4 3.73 180,000 miles 6.0 gasser soon to be a duramax

2002 Duramax 3500 Crew Dually, will use for donor to convert Yukon XL to dmax, bed gone, cab burned out still drivable


I wonder how much effort and cost would be required to make that Yukon a Dually?? :rolleyes: That would really stand out!

I would be leary of that turbo myself.....those things are highly sussepetable vibration, and at the RPM's they run, I would not feel comfortable with that damage.

Check out ebay if you want another one. LB7 turbos are pretty easy to come by on there.

Wife says not a chance on the dually Yukon. Although I did consider a 6 door Yukon, again the wife said she is not a chauffeur.

The damage to the turbo blades was caused by a bearing failure. Replace the turbo now while the engine is out of the truck. It is a much easier job when you can get all the way around it.

Only half of the blades have damage, how do you tell it is bearing? Know anyone with a turbo for sale?

Contact Trippin I'm sure he does.

Sounds like a real cool project. I can't wait for pics. If possible take some along the way!!!

Wife says not a chance on the dually Yukon. Although I did consider a 6 door Yukon, again the wife said she is not a chauffeur.

Women......can't live with them....Can't kill them, I guess you just have to say "yes dear" and just do it!

How are you gonna plumb the fuel tanks on the Yukon? Don't think the Dmax ecm will talk with the gasser fuel pump. GB

I thought the damage looks like debrie or internal catostrophic event.:eek: you should not ever run a wheel with any bent or chiped blades!not trying to be smart azz,but where do you think the matieral from the wheel went?
if you think into combustion chamber,your probabaly right!!!ouch,aleast take to turbo shop to cheak bearing and replace wheel,or turbo as suggested,sorry,good luck.:)

I would be looking for a different turbo!:eek:

side to side play,grab wheel,push in and out,i dont know the tolerance,but
its not very much!if you have any more than a little up down movement, like can barly feel a wigel,bearing probably bad.dont chance it!

I took the turbo off today(see pics). If the left over pieces went anywhere it is into the intercooler, if they were small enough then on to the combustion chamber. Will be checking compression soon. I am taking lots of pictures along the way.
There is no end play or side to side, bearings feel tight. I cannot see any contact with the housing so it must have injested something.
Fuel tank is an unknown. I plan on taking out the pump and sender and installing the one from the duramax tank. May have to fab up something for it. Probably make new fuel lines or us the ones from the truck with some modifications.
Have figured out Cruise Control, Fuel pedal and transfer case wiring. Now I need to figure out the guage cluster and make sure everything is there that I need for the duramax. Does anyone with a 01-02 know if the green "CRUISE" light comes on in a duramax? The wiring diagram doesn't show any connection with the instrument panel with respects to cruise. The diagram for the 6.0 show a wire to the instrument panel.
The wire mess is a duramax dash wiring harness that is being taken apart so I can use parts for the Yukon.

My cruise light does illuminate.

Seems I need to track down a wiring harness for the instrument panel.

Seems I need to track down a wiring harness for the instrument panel.

If possible, would it be too difficult to use the cluster and harness out of the dually? or is it too damaged by FIRE!

The cluster out of the truck got pretty banged up. Most of the guages quit working and the face sheet is melted and discolored, all of the needles are melted. I have been studying it to see it I might be able to take parts out of it to make the Yukon guage cluster work for me. A lot to learn about them first.

You will need a diesel cluster. The CEL will illuminate when the (non-existent) wait to start light doesn't come on in the Yukon cluster. I had to replace the gasser cluster in my truck when I rebuilt it for that reason. You will also want the trans temp guage that the Yukon cluster doesn't have.

This Yukon is 2500 so it has a tranny temp guage.

Seems I need to track down a wiring harness for the instrument panel.

hey,i have a place in clark fork,on the river,but i dont live there now.i know boise is not in the sticks like my place :D but if you can't track down a harness let me know and i can get you some salvage yard ph#s,but they will be here in so cal or sacramento,pay only with credit card so you can cancel it if not right part,some yards will not refund cash,but most yards will ship no problem.you may find in salt lake city or portland.have you been to i.a.a.i. auto auctions in boise???or did you come up with doner another way,just intrested,i go to iaai in so cal.and copart,i didn't mean any offense in comment of turbo,i dont think you took any!:) we are kind of neighbors,soon to be atleast.that wheel is really bad,probably been run out of its map to much!! glad bearing is tight,but replace that wheel,some say it needs turbo shop to balance,i agree!if you can,run it before putting back ft clip and check balance rates.much easier to change injectors if needed,only ones needed,wait as long as possible for injector r & d.its comming soon! ;)

I meant to say wiring harness diagram.

I meant to say wiring harness diagram.
i will see if my friend can email it to me,but what diagram,I.P. or whole dash,for what model,and year,and you know gm goes by vin#s somtimes=alot of the time!

I am looking for the differences between the instrument cluster wiring on a 2001 Yukon XL 2500 6.0 and a 2002 Silverado 3500 Duramax.

I can't vouch for the differences in the actual clusters, Biker, but the schematics I sent you out of my Helms are "generic" to all the vehicles the manual covers (trucks/tahoes/yukons/'burbs)

I am looking for the differences between the instrument cluster wiring on a 2001 Yukon XL 2500 6.0 and a 2002 Silverado 3500 Duramax.

do you have both clusters?do you have both harnesses,are plugs the same,do they plug?probably already said,i not the sharp tool in shed!
but wait to start and fuel pump/fuel gauge may be the major diffarence,if they plug and have both harnesses,how many color wires are not same same,when plugged,disconect batt!doesn't really mean jack!but being same color is good sign,and last did the helms diagram help or do you still need some data=info!

Those diagrams out of the Helms manuals are hard to follow. I have the pages and have to get the harnesses out to see if I can follow the diagram. Right now they don't make sense.

Those diagrams out of the Helms manuals are hard to follow. I have the pages and have to get the harnesses out to see if I can follow the diagram. Right now they don't make sense.

i'll ask my buddy he has all data,or motors,i will ask about cluster diagram :) .is there any type of engine swap fourm here or somewhere that maybe has the 411,one question though,do you ride h.d. or upright cruiser,or rice,unless your rich,then you may have italiano,i'm rice!!i used to be dirty=moto

Straight dirty, dumped all the cruisers not safe anymore

Straight dirty, dumped all the cruisers not safe anymore

i used to race motocross.its not safe for me any more!too old,bones brittle=no more crash!:eek: i pretty much ride on ama race tracks,no street!not safe!asked friend to look up dash and clucter on all data,will get back,stay on the low side!!the highside seems to hurt more, been there too many!!:eek:

Really I only do trails, Idaho is full of them. I look forward to any wiring diagrams you can provide.

Those diagrams out of the Helms manuals are hard to follow. I have the pages and have to get the harnesses out to see if I can follow the diagram. Right now they don't make sense.

I looked up the two clusters,i tried to save to thumb drive but it will not offer as option,only print on paper from copy machine :( .probably for this very reason,i coppied clusters and boned out and selected 2 w/d for the 3500.i don't know if diffarent.i'm going to get progam on my computer,its 90 gigs he says,about 10 disks.i would mail these coppies to you and any more you may need.it looks like i cannot email,unless i scaned,and then it would still be a copy of a copy?maybe more difficult to see and or fuzzy. only copy on paper,this is a diagnostic program and should have every wire,fuse,and relay for both vehicals.these are a little complicated for me to read also,i would need a harness,to trace,but if you have the parts it should be doable.this program will make my head spin,i had to limit to the cluster its self and looks like a lot of computer interface :( ! I think i have seen 3 or4 diffarent computers on the 6.6!pcm,ecu,injector comp,and maybe a few more!!i will help with what i can!!don't mess with alot of computer wires,to easy to make mistake,change harness's,alot of work i know,but 1-2 wires wrong and it could fry computors,too costly,pm me if you want me to mail you diagrams.

What program are you refering to? I need all of the wiring diagrams I can get. If you can't scan it don't send it in the mail. Don't want you to go that far out of you way. I have the duramax harness out of the truck to look at and I am going to leave the harness in the Yukon for now and try to trace it out. If I can't I will remove it.

What program are you refering to? I need all of the wiring diagrams I can get. If you can't scan it don't send it in the mail. Don't want you to go that far out of you way. I have the duramax harness out of the truck to look at and I am going to leave the harness in the Yukon for now and try to trace it out. If I can't I will remove it.

"all data",i am haveing installed on computer for my benifit,its a repair shop dealer type progam for diagnostics of most any vehical in u.s.

So your version of the program covers all vehicles? I was looking at the program and the diagrams look just llike the ones from the Helms manuals, kind of hard to follow. A local Diesel shop has been giving me wire diagrams. They are color diagrams of where the wire starts and where it ends, doesn't show connectors inbetween. I like them and they seem to be easier to follow. Seems I need to get a Helms manual so I can get the connector pin out so I can compare every connector between the two cars. Was hoping I could find someone close to me so I could borrow a set.

If pinting is the issue, then if you have installed a current version of microsoft office, (03 I think XP might offer it also) then there is an option from the office setup to install a program called Microsoft Document Imaging, which installes a Printer Driver labeled Microsoft Document Image Writer.

If you have this then select that as your printer and you can save ANY printable document as an image file (MDI uses TIFF formating) and you can actually save it as a TIFF image for faxing, or emailing I'll bet.

Just a thought.

On Edit: This file can be viewed using Microsoft Image Viewer if saved in the TIFF format instead of MDI.

good to see you have the project started! i have plenty of 01 sub harness laying around the floor left over i'll sell you really really cheep HE HE. it's a long battle but worth it in the end my wife has put over 15 now after the conversion! and still going strong!

what are you going to do for the rear axle! stock semi floating or up grade

I plan on using an axle off of a duramax, local guy says he has 4 of them but we have not talked price yet. Hoping to trade for it, left over parts from the build up. I thought your wife didn't like it? How soon could you ship that harness down to me? I could use it for tracing out wires, don't need it for conversion just as a tool so I don't have to remove the one thats in there. I could send it back when done. Let me know.

good to see you have the project started! i have plenty of 01 sub harness laying around the floor left over i'll sell you really really cheep HE HE. it's a long battle but worth it in the end my wife has put over 15 now after the conversion! and still going strong!

what are you going to do for the rear axle! stock semi floating or up grade

hey biker,i thought you were going to be the first.
chevy gear heads are hard to beat!!this is your hook up,he should be able to help as he's done it!!
you did see "all data", i have not seen helms, i cannot compare,but i like all data for diagnostics.it does show where componets are located,but not route that wire takes,good luck!! i'm sure you will get it done right!!

Yep my wife wants me to get her a new yukon. it;s to big and loud for her ( dont see a problem with it )
so if anyone out there wants to trade let me know!

i would be glad to send the harness, it is fairly cut up and many of the plugs have been cut off for my project! let me know if you still want it and i will ups it out!

If pinting is the issue, then if you have installed a current version of microsoft office, (03 I think XP might offer it also) then there is an option from the office setup to install a program called Microsoft Document Imaging, which installes a Printer Driver labeled Microsoft Document Image Writer.

If you have this then select that as your printer and you can save ANY printable document as an image file (MDI uses TIFF formating) and you can actually save it as a TIFF image for faxing, or emailing I'll bet.

Just a thought.

On Edit: This file can be viewed using Microsoft Image Viewer if saved in the TIFF format instead of MDI.

wow!that's way over my head!!i can barely email,and type.but when i get some xtra time i will check this out,sound like it could benifit me,thanks:)

Ordered a set of Helms yesterday, can't take it any more. Front end of Yukon is off, engine wiring disconnected. Will disconnect body tonight so I can lift it off tomarrow. It is getting very close.

You won't be sorry you bought the Helms.

the Yukon has a 2 part fuel tank along with 2 pumps and 2 sending units. How do I deal with that? I am looking into modifying the diesel pickup and sender to go in main tank and adding in the second sendiny unit. Just have to satisfy the computers. Picture is of the 3 sending units. Tall grey one is duramax, middle size is main tank on Yukon, short one is for small tank on Yukon. Can't wait for Helms manuals because I think they will give me what I need.

I guess if the turbo crapped out that could explain the elevated metals in the oil sample, check the lube hole in the cam bearing where the turbo gets it oil maybe it crapped because the bearing spun.

The bearings spin freely, and no end play. Something was injested and hit the compressor blades.

Used turbo on its way thanks to Jim659. Exhaust gets installed tonight. Finalizing fuel system tonight also. I have lots of pics and will post when I have more to report.
Got the helms manuals, what a mess. They are so hard to find things, lots of information though. Guess I will learn it over time.

One mess after another, I wonder if I will ever get done. Turbo was a few days late shipping, drive line place built my drive line 1" short, fuel tanks disapeared for a couple of days and then came back unmodified. Decided to put the dually axle on the rear end, it is going in quite well. Drive line goes back to the shop today to get fixed, hopefully they don't try to add 1". I would prefer that they start with a new tube, but they will probably try to charge me for it. From the original 2 part drive line from the truck the long shaft was more than enough to make the modified shaft, they screwed up. We will take the tanks to a roto-mold company to get 2 fittings welded on so the top tank will drain into the bottom take(2 part suburban tanks). Then finish the fuel lines and put the body back on. We will see.

The end is getting near, good luck and waiting to see the finished product.

Got it running last night.

congrats! tell us more!

Got so many pics I need to go throught them to pick out the good ones and do a write up. Will probably be a few days at least after the dyno run on Sat. 19th

Good luck with it.:D

congratulation's,you were very determend,and pretty quick!you must have spare time,good luck

Dazor desk lamp. Kewl!
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=37533&d=1176432257 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=37533&d=1176432257)
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

Way to go!

Now if I can just get the 6-gun working!!!

congrats. cant wait to see pictures and a write up, i love doing projects like that (though havent gone so far as to do a diesel swap...yet...)

Looks like the project is not done yet. We hooked up EFILive today and I am getting 8,000psi rail pressure when it is calling for 23,000psi. That it why the 6-gun is not working and the truck feels slugish. What do I look for now?

You need to find someone with a tech2 to command the rail pressure up and check the regulator and injectors. Would be nice if EFI live followed through on the command so we could do it. Could be injectors. Try a filter also.

Put a new filter in 3 days ago. Trying to figure out how to test fuel rail pressure releif valve, FPR, Injectors, and Pump. Got to be one of those 4 things. Just found out I have to go to California for 3 days next week and I needed to get the Yukon done before Friday for a nice 4 day weekend, not going to happen now.

Here are a couple of pics of the finished product. Will be posting more later. Still trying to find the low fuel rail pressure problem.

are you gonna put bigger fenders over the rear tires?

Will be puting single rear wheels on.

I can hardly beleive it myself, I just dropped the Yukon off at a shop. I have never trusted anyone enought to work on my vehicles but I am stuck. I have talked with the guys at the local diesel shop and they seem good enought to diagnose the problem. We will see what they can do.

Well just to update every one. The shop only confirmed what I already didn't know. No idea. Low fuel rail pressure is the symptom. We unpluged the FPR and the fuel pressure showed 0psi on the scanner, that is backwards it should go to max pressure. A small diagnostic fee and I took it home. The consensus is that the FPR is bad, but I don't think that is all of it. Injector checked out with all of the test that can be run on them with the scanner. So I checked around and found a new CP3 with FPR for $350 shipped to my door. Should be here on Monday and I will replace it and see. If that doesn't do I think I have a line on a set of injectors for $400 and I will replace them next. So untill next week, wish me luck.

OH MY GOSH!!! What a ride. Got the CP3 replaced last night and that fixed her right up. Forget the programmer this thing hauls a$$ in stock form. But just because I have it I switch the 6-Gun to level 3(of 6) and it scoots even faster. Now that it is running right I will try to work on the right up. Next up is the 4X4, and fuel sender to get fixed.

:ro)

Boy can I feel the defueling between shifts now, how do I eliminate that? How do you guy drive around on hot tunes, I would go throught tires way too often? And don't get me started on speeding tickets, just a blip of the throttle and I am at 60mph.

Boy can I feel the defueling between shifts now, how do I eliminate that? How do you guy drive around on hot tunes, I would go throught tires way too often? And don't get me started on speeding tickets, just a blip of the throttle and I am at 60mph.EFI Live will take care of that pesky defueling.:D

Glad you got it going!

OH MY GOSH!!! What a ride. Got the CP3 replaced last night and that fixed her right up. Forget the programmer this thing hauls a$$ in stock form. But just because I have it I switch the 6-Gun to level 3(of 6) and it scoots even faster. Now that it is running right I will try to work on the right up. Next up is the 4X4, and fuel sender to get fixed.Let us know when you weigh it.:D

Now that I have a new CP3 I am getting a different problem, after it sits for more than 1 hour and I try to start it, it wont start. 2 pumps on the primer and it starts right up. I currently have a section of clear hose and a vacuum guage between the filter and the pump. The fuel is not running out of the hose and the guage shows 0 pressure or vacuum. Just wont start, 2 pumps and it fires right up. Didn't have this problem with the old pump, just no fuel rail pressure. Any suggestions? Also when it fires up and is running I only get 4 inhg of vacuum.

Pics of the clear tubing and the vacuum guage.

Sometimes it's a real ***** getting all the trapped air out of these things, maybe it will go away by itself after a few more primes.

my buddys 04LLY had the same problem,started it,and after 1min it died. Told him to bleed it, and try again, it died 8 more times and now is running fine

it's a great fealing when it finaly comes to life! good to hear it's comming along! we are going to have to start our own club (maxed out subs)
soon, so our wives can talk about how insane they think we are and we get more time to work on our rigs!
Anyone want to join! send $1000 care of pizza/beverage fund ! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D

Keep the progress comming!

I'm with Jim, Keep priming, until you are sure it is bleed out, it could take quite a few goes at it...............

Try a new fuel filter.

Filter only has about 125 miles on it and the tanks was clean and all new fuel lines when conversion done.

Well, I mean there could be a vacuum leak on the filter connections. Check your o-rings and stuff.

I did not have this problem with the old CP3. Only part of the fuel system I touched while changing them was the supply hose right at the CP3. Will have to check it closer to see if I punctured the hose or didn't get a clam on right, and remove all of the test fittings from the filter housing. Time will tell.

Seems the test fittings were causing the problems, removed them and it works like normal. Also had to put a intercooler tube back on after it blew off, seems the clamp was not tight enough. Will tow with it tonight and see how it does.

We want pictures and details!

I am trying to get a write up done.

have you posted a write up some where?

I am still working on the write up. Not sure what format I should use because it is long and has lots of pics in it. Can I just attach a word doc or a Power Point doc? I think that will work out better than trying to show it all in a post.

How's she running anyway?

I am still working on the write up. Not sure what format I should use because it is long and has lots of pics in it. Can I just attach a word doc or a Power Point doc? I think that will work out better than trying to show it all in a post.

Word files with pictures get pretty huge pretty quick. Best would be a pdf file.

It is quite the feat to get something like that posted with pictures on here, I had a bugger of a time with the T-case pump upgrade instructions, and I am a computer idiot, so for a big write up like that, I bet it is one big headache to get to fit.

nice to see it up and running man:cool:

I am still working on the write up. Not sure what format I should use because it is long and has lots of pics in it. Can I just attach a word doc or a Power Point doc? I think that will work out better than trying to show it all in a post.

Power Point would be pretty easy to do, You could also use pdf. Most everyone has pdf and it is easy to view. If you need some help with it I could get you started. It would be a good write up. Pictures with a little explanation is the easiest approach.

It is running like a champ. Used it to pull the 7,000# Travel Trailer to the coast and we got 13.5 round trip. I was happy with that. We plan on trading that one in on a 26-28ft toy hauler. Hopefully I will be taking it to the diesel dyno days on Sat. 18th

I think that you should keep the duals and put on mega cab flairs! and get a fifth wheel toyhauler that mounts to the roof like the with the video runnig around on this site! LOL:)

Wife says NO WAY!!!

Dyno done, great results. See attachment. Save picture and view with other software so you can zoom in.

451.7 top rwhp 870.7 tq
Level 6 on 6-gun tuner

:drop_mout :grd: :eek: :beerchug: :Get_him: oh, wait, you cant!!! :clap: :bow: :sign_weir

sorry, i got carried away.

Ken

I wanna do that to my wifes Yukon also but the bummer is its not a xl so it wont make that good of a tow vehicle but with Efi live it will be fun to drive. So what are you gonna have for sale from the crewcab dually. I have a couple of parts trucks and actually want to build a dually as another tow vehicle Maybe you could shoot me a email and I can find out what you are thinking you want and so forth. thanx

Got new rims and tires, installed 06 Tow mirrors, write up still in process. Just got 2005 30' toy hauler, weighs in at about 11,000#, Yukon tows it great. Been getting between 11 and 12 mpg towing.

time to post some picts of the rig and trailer!

I forgot to take some on our last outing. Need to get them up though.

Hey there, I have a 2003 Avalanche with the 8.1 L and I just acquired a 06 Duramax engine, Allison and T-Case to install in my avalanche. Looking forward to your write up on the conversion you did in your Yukon! Sounds amazing. I have a Gooseneck hitch in my Avalanche to pull a two Jeeps on a 30' flatbed and I miss my old Duramax! Trying to collect any pointers I can before I rip it all apart!

Thanks!!!!

I finished the write up. Check it out and tell me what you think.

AWESOME!!!:phatyo:

AWESOME!!!:phatyo:
x2:D nice to see all that work pay off:cool2::beerchug:

Well done :thumb:

Great job...that is an awesome conversion

Great job! You had under $15k into the whole thing?

I am curious....did you end up using the gasser cluster or did you use the diesel cluster from the donor truck?

I had to use a diesel cluster, the cluster from the donor truck got trashed by the fire so I bought one off of ebay. All said I have $18k into the project and still have to sell off the leftovers, CC LB rolling chasi with axles, Chevy front clip, and Yukon 6.0 engine/tranny/case.

wow. I am now very jealous....:D

That is one sweet converison, so if I reading it right the main parts from you dmax donnor rig was the front core, engine, trans, t-case and the rear axel? So you could have use any dmax equiped truck, RCLB, ECSB or CCLB etc for a donor truck?

Exactly, any duramax powered 4x4 truck will work for the conversion. Totaled trucks work great. Also the closer the years of the 2 vehicles are the better, and try not to cross generation year changes, ie 2003, 2004.5, 2006.

That is one sweet converison, so if I reading it right the main parts from you dmax donnor rig was the front core, engine, trans, t-case and the rear axel? So you could have use any dmax equiped truck, RCLB, ECSB or CCLB etc for a donor truck?
that is what i read:D

That was an awesome write up. I wish I had any idea how to pull something like that off. What would you charge me if I bought the parts? :) Again, good job. You should post some pictures with the new wheels and tires and all.

If you lived close to me I have the space and the knowledge, I would probably just help you through it. Otherwise I am certain that there is some $$$ amount that would motivate me to do it again!!! Probably not as much as you are thinking because I am a hobby mechanic by night and an engineer by day, never concidered my hoddies to be much of an income sorce.

All said I have $18k into the project...
HOLD IT! Do you mean to tell me that you have 18k into this truck including the price of both donors?!

Oh, man, I have to do one of these!

That is correct! That aslo includes a CP3 Injector Pump and Turbo that had to be replaced and an instrument cluster and 4x4 switch that should come from a donor. The exhaust and 6-gun tuner are also included but not needed. If I could sell off the rest of the donor and the left over drive train, and I took out the cost of parts that should have come in the donor I could clear this project for less than $15k.

Do you have the grill from the Chevy? If you do, is it in good shape?

Exceptional write up!!!:ro) I have been wanting to do the same thing for my wife. I guess I am going to have to do it. Again Job Well Done! And thank you for the great write up. Good luck. Josh

I loved this thread so much, I blabbed about it to all my friends. One buddy of mine proposed a deal to me. He is thinking of buying a Hummer H2, so he suggested that he could leave it at my house for 4 or 5 months, pay for a Duramax engine/Allison trans/transfercase, custom exhaust, custom drivelines, computer, and all of the bits and pieces (service manuals, body lift, ect..). He offered to pay me handsomely for the job.

He seems to think that puting a Dmax into an H2 would be no different than into a Yukon, but I am not so sure. What do some of you more experienced with these conversions think?

I loved this thread so much, I blabbed about it to all my friends. One buddy of mine proposed a deal to me. He is thinking of buying a Hummer H2, so he suggested that he could leave it at my house for 4 or 5 months, pay for a Duramax engine/Allison trans/transfercase, custom exhaust, custom drivelines, computer, and all of the bits and pieces (service manuals, body lift, ect..). He offered to pay me handsomely for the job.

He seems to think that puting a Dmax into an H2 would be no different than into a Yukon, but I am not so sure. What do some of you more experienced with these conversions think?


its been done before by bully dog I think, not sure if it was an H3 or H2 though. the H2 is built on the same chassis as the yukon and they both share a lot of parts so I could only imagine that it would be close to the same swap.

Do you happen to know off the top of your head if the instrument cluster of an H2 is interchangeable with a Sivlerado's or Sierra's? That would be the easy way of getting a WTS light.

What years did they make the 2500HD Yukon XL's?

did you get any pics of the trailer hooked up yet

Oh crap, I just spent 10 days pulling that thing all over the north west and forgot to get a picture. Guess that was not on the top of the list of thing to do. Maybe tonight when we put it away for the winter.
As a side note I got on average 8mpg pulling that trailer between 65-70 mph. High was 9.6mpg going from Vale to Denver and low was 6.5mpg between Laramie WY and Utah border. This just seems low to me I was hoping for 10-12mpg. What might it be???
Also slipped the tranny 3 different times, got to keep the 6-gun turned down to level 2 to keep from slipping, otherwise it ran great.

first if you are going for fuel economy i would get rid of the six gun and find some one that will build you a tune with efi live or try it yourself that is what i am doing just sold mine this weekend to a guy that just wants to have a little fun now if i can just get rid of the hypertech i would be set

What years did they make the 2500HD Yukon XL's?
01-current

current 2500hd yukons only come with 6.0. the 01-06 had the 8.1 as an option

the 8.1 currently is only offerd in the 4500-6500 trucks

I am concidering an EFILive tune, but also keep the 6-gun on so I can adjust power on the fly. Will it work? Have a guy local that can build me a tune for towing, leave it in and add the 6-gun for dailey driving and a little fun now and then.

I am concidering an EFILive tune, but also keep the 6-gun on so I can adjust power on the fly. Will it work? Have a guy local that can build me a tune for towing, leave it in and add the 6-gun for dailey driving and a little fun now and then.
You'd be better off with a DSP5 for adjust on the fly.

OK, I think we all need a quik recap here. I am very interested in looking for a Suburban to do this to and I also plan on solid axling it. I guess I have a few questions.

I read that you used a different cluster and had some trial and tribulations with fuel tank/ system, but as for gauges, did you have to change wiring harness on Yukon? or original was fine? Did you put in the 3500 core support and front end on truck to hold up radiator/ coolers? or did you leave it stock in front? What was the hardest challenge to figure out on this whole project that we should pay special attention to details in your write up?? Thanks!!!

If you are carefull about which years you pick then the stock wiring harness in the Suburban will work, with minor changes. If you are careless then you will have to swap out almost every wire in the vehicle. The core support is from the truck. The metal parts are the same and everything bolts on to it GMC or Chevy, Suburban or Truck. There was no "hardest part", just a lot of difficult parts like the fuel system and the exhaust. If I had to guess I would say the wiring was still the hardest part. Not because it was actually hard but because of the amount of problems that could happen and the amount or research to feel prepared to do it. I spent 3 months researching the wiring alone, didn't even think about the fuel and exhaust untill the conversion was in process.

I am concidering an EFILive tune, but also keep the 6-gun on so I can adjust power on the fly. Will it work? Have a guy local that can build me a tune for towing, leave it in and add the 6-gun for dailey driving and a little fun now and then.

ya if he is going to build you a tune then he should be able to build a tune useing the DSP5 switch which will then act like the banks 6 gun and will work much better. trust me you will get tired of that thing fast i have mine stacked and it just doesn't seem like enough anymore. there needs to be a warning lable on tuners saying that power may become addictive

Finally got a picture of rig with trailer, enjoy.

Wow! That thing is BAD!

Yea, 8mpg bad, maybe I need a wing on the Yukon?

i was thinking more of a spoiler, but good thought process. when my uncle had his 90's f-250, gas, he used to tow a 30' camper. then he put his cap on it, with a homemade spoiler on the cap(something similar to the ajustable ones on the big-rigs), and his milage went up 2-3 mpg's. might want to try that, mount it to the roof racks, but i dont know if you put anything up there when you travel. i wouldnt think anything too big, just a little something.

Ken

If my truck will fit in the back of that thing maybe you will take me with you sometime?

On out trip I actually saw a suburban with a spoiler on it, I would be willing to give it a try even if I only get 1mpg gain it would be worth it.
It is made to carry a vehicle, but only has capacity for about a 4,000# vehicle max.

Awesome project :hail:. The duramax has proven itself to me time and time again. Any idea if anybody has attempted putting a duramax into a 1987 K3500 dually 4x4? I have a 1987 K3500 4X4 with a 6.2L and an auto tranny that might be a good canidate. I'm sure that the transfer case would require a different setup since the 87' straight axle driveshaft is on the RH side instead of the LH like the duramax transfer case has. Probably a call to Advanced adapters could help. Anybody ever consider anything like this type of conversion?

You are in for one HELL of a ride with that one.

Not so bad when you are sticking with NBS - things bolt up.

Working with a friend putting an LLY into a 03 Suburban 2500. We will see how the wiring hooks up. So far the swap looks identical to mine. A couple more weeks and it should be done. It had a 8.1 in it so there are fewer things to change like the fuel pedal and the cruise control wiring.

i'd like to swap a duramax into a tahoe or something like that for the wife. i think i'd go with some like 3.10 or 3.42 gears to get some sweet mileage. i mean, i've got my truck to pull, that one would be the cruiser. any thoughts??

How difficult would it be to convert a 2wd 8.1 Suburban 2500 to a 4wd Dmax, if the parts truck was a 4wd and had a manual transfer case?

How difficult would it be to convert a 2wd 8.1 Suburban 2500 to a 4wd Dmax, if the parts truck was a 4wd and had a manual transfer case?

Expensive, unless you do all the work yourself. Im sure it is not a job for anyone short of a mechanic whom is familiar with the Duramax platform.

You have to start by loking very closely to the frame. Does the 2wd and 4wd have the same frame? If it is just a matter of changing out parts then I say go for it. But if the frame is different then it is not worth is. Also try to use the same generation truck and suburban ie. 2001-2002, 2003-2005, 2006, 2007. I think that is the generation breakdown. Crossing over from Chevy to GMC is not that big of a deal.

I think the frames are the same, only a few less mounting brackets for the front diff. CLIMAX was a 2wd CCLB that was converted to a 4WD IFS then a SFA. I think as long as the 2WD burbans are torsion bar suspension and not coils it should work, but there is definite checking to do. I just that the 2wd usually go really cheap.

Even if they were coils does the frame still have the mount locations for the IFS suspension parts which should be pulled off of the truck?

Does anyone know if it is possible to convert a gasoline yukon 2dr to a duramax diesel without too many problems?

I was originally going to put the duramax into my 1995 Diesel Suburban but found that this is a very involved task and gave up this idea for a newer generation Yukon XL. I think it would not be a good idea unless you have a lot of room that can be taken up for a long time and a lot fabrication skills and a very good understanding of electrical systems. You are goint to have to make a new wiring harness and rebuild the dash to accept the new guage cluster and fabricate engine mounts and change the whole front end to accept an intercooer.
Good luck.

I have a couple of questions. ive read your story of your conversion .it was great. i am in the middle of putting a 5.3 vortec in my 59 panel truck. i have access to an 04 duramax of which i would like to use.the vortec wiring harness only needs about 5 wires powered and grounded and the engine starts and runs.these are in the bulkhead connector. Did you find the duramax to be the same.being a custom truck I am using aftermarket gauges. I would need to wire in an aldl connector for troubleshooting,and an wait to start light.Do you see any reason why i would need the body control module either? thanks Dave.

The duramax needs the BCM signal in order to run, plus all of the engine control wires intermingle with the rest of the wiring harness. I do not have the skill to start the engine without the rest of the truck and I think it would not be an easy task. Without the proper code from the BCM the ECU locks up due to the Passlock system. If you could program that function out of the ECU then you might be able to start the engine. EFILive might be able to do that.