Ok after seeing a few postings(and talking with Idle Chatter at the GTG)about the breaking of the tailgate cables, I've been considering having a better replacement made. I'm thinking of the old style slotted rail. These would be relatively easy to engineer and more than likely cheap enough to produce. I've got a few fabs that my company deals with that I could present with a layout and have made in larger quantities.


Question is, it is worthwhile enough for the time and trouble to make and find the best price, or is it just a few isolated incidents that these cables collect water, fray and break?


Obviously it's just a passing thought, I don't know what the cost would be(or even how much OEM replacements are) but I'm looking for feedback to see if there's enough interest.

One other quick note, there's a slew of materials that could be used for replacement. Stainless, Zinc plated, hard chromed(not the shiny kind but for durability/rustproofing), aluminum or even delrin(an extremely tough plastic in some cases, even stronger than steel). If anyone has a preference, that would aid me in costing this project.Edited by: Victory Red

Rick, could you make a 'cable' with the delrin? I think some nice stainless ones myself, but that will add to the cost


Eric

I probably wouldn't go for a plastic one, even if it were kevlar. I'd be concerned about the long-term reliability. Same with aluminum. Stainless would be my choice, cost permitting.


Keep us posted. Someone's gonna get seriously hurt when those cables break at the wrong time - maybe loading an atv or something.

Well even the steel plates weren't totally foolproof. I remember the hinge points giving it up from time to time. I'd need to figure out a way to keep it from weakening over time, or even a better a way to replace the pivots easily.


Eric, while I've never seen delrin in 'rope' form, it is used extensively in the molding industry. it's available in all shapes and sizes, but I beleive it's also more costly than steel.

I know I would be intererested in a set of plates. Stainless would be my preference.


John

Looked at my 2 year old cables the other day and found cuts in the coating .... planned to replace ASAP but if you think you will have better ones available soon will hold off .... stainless also gets my vote ... Jim

JEBar,


If you're feeling unsafe about your cables, PLEASE DO NOT WAIT FOR THESE!.


I probably will end up getting something out there, but there will be a couple week lead time getting it all together, plus a testing phase to make sure they are working properly and a better product than what GM currently offers. I wouldn't want to send out a crappy product.

I'd be in for a set. Stainless would be my choice.





We all know it would be Mac's choice too. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Victory Red ...


Understood


Jim

Stainless.

Well 15 votes yes out of 138 views. There truly seems to be an interest in these. Response will probably get even better once I actually have a design in hand. Stainless also seems to be the most popular option so that's where i'll start with my fab quotes.


This will probably take a week or two to get some definitive answers, I'll keep you all posted.

Stainlesshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Ok who voted no?? Just curious as to why.

I didn't vote no but actually I would prefer a cable over a rail as long as the cable was stainless. But if the choice is stainless rail vs stock cable I would take the rail.

My last truck had the "rail" type, and those darn things were stronger then the tailgate itself (and DON'T ask me how I know that http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif)

Dont care what it looks like as long as it will last and wont get nasty rusty. Dont care if its a cable, rope or rail, stainless, chromed, flubber. Dont matter to me. I would worry about plastic or aluminum fatiguing over time.

Stainless cable and stainless ends would get my vote. A good stainess plate set up would be a close second. I wouldn't think it would be too bad a price tag for some laser cut ones.


Mark

well I'm still in development phase. The hardest point right now is finding the proper pivot point attitude(and what material to use as a pivot point). I wish I had all day to focus on this project, my bosswould scream bloody murder if he caught me doing personal stuff like this on company time(plus it just isn't right).


Anyhow with any luck near the end of the week I'll have a stainless steel prototype. I'll also try to get one of our engineers to do a stress analysis on these to see how strong these may be.

Ok who voted no?? Just curious as to why.


Might have been a product liability lawyer. http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil%20Smile.gif

Ok who voted no?? Just curious as to why.


Might have been a product liability lawyer. http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil%20Smile.gif





true, but that's why with instructions I'll have to put the disclaimer "Use this at your own risk". http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif


Either that or I'll have to dust off my old EIN and update to an LLC company instead

TYPE : VEHICLE
YEAR : 2002
MAKE : CHEVROLET
MODEL : SILVERADO
NHTSA Action Number : PE03049 NHTSA Recall Campaign Number : N/A
Make : CHEVROLET Model: SILVERADO
Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP. Year : 2002
Component : LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES:TAILGATE:LATCH
Date Investigation Opened : October 23, 2003
Date Investigation Closed : Open
Summary:
SINCE JANUARY 2002 ODI HAS RECEIVED 16 REPORTS IN WHICH CONSUMERS HAVE REPORTED THAT THE TAILGATE HAD DROPPED UNEXPECTEDLY AFTER ONE OR BOTH OF THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES HAD BROKEN. FIVE OF THESE REPORTED INCIDENTS RESULTED IN PERSONAL INJURIES. IN TWO OF THE REPORTED INJURY INCIDENTS, A CONSUMER HAD BEEN STANDING OR SITTING ON THE TAILGATE AND WAS DROPPED TO THE GROUND, CAUSING INJURY. IN TWO OTHER REPORTED INJURY INCIDENTS, CONSUMERS HAD BEEN LOADING THE VEHICLE USING A RAMP WHEN THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLE BROKE, DROPPING BOTH THE CONSUMER AND CARGO TO THE GROUND. ONE OF THE CONSUMERS WAS INJURED BY THE FALL; THE OTHER CONSUMER WAS INJURED BY THE FALLING CARGO. ODI WILL COMMENCE AN INVESTIGATION TO DETERMINE THE SCOPE AND SEVERITY OF THIS PROBLEM.

I have 2 sets of these cables on my 03 Silverado. One on the original tailgate and I put a set on my 5th wheel tailgate, so I didn't have to change the cables every time I switch tailgates. I hope if GM does replace them they will replace both, they are both made by GM Edited by: BIGMoe

So what are you saying Hoot? We need these, or don't get involved because of possible liability issues?

Keep us posted. Someone's gonna get seriously hurt when those cables break at the wrong time - maybe loading an atv or something.
Funny you should mention an ATV, I was unloading a Bombadier when the straps broke. Scared the crap out of me, had the ramps strapped and creased the tailgate pretty good. Dealer replaced straps per a TSB and said he was sorry about the tailgate.

I'll take a set of SS bi-fold straps as soon as you can make them.

Read the thread started yesterday on TDP





http://forum.thedieselpage.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=005487

Well for a minor update I've selected the material for the pivot point. I'm going to use ss sex bolts(no joke, also commonly referred to as Chicago bolts), with two bushings on either side. The reason for this is that this is a major 'wear point' and I want them to be easily changeable if they show signs of wear. Plus I get them relatively cheaply from a supplier for a little more than 3 bux a pop. I'm trying for durability, yet versatility. I'm doing my best to keep the costs down as well.


My biggest fallback so far is finding a replacement for the spring clip at the top latch. This is proving to be quite a task. So I'm open for suggestions for this if anyone knows of something suitable.





I'm going to use a piece slightly larger than the crimped on hook in width and mill out the ring that goes around the latch(ie one solid piece!!!). The other end is easy, just a thru hole that get's bolted on.





More to come

voted no just cause i can get a length of ss cable for bout $2 and crimp the ends off my original cables. havent done it yet but then again ive been working 14-16 hr days for bout a while now and i just did the cable swap in september. just to add a good cable is stronger than the gate. mine has a 1/2 inch sag to prove it.