I have a Ranchhand Rear bumper and the factory hitch works with it. It has the tabs for it to bolt to. However, with all the bad things I read about the factory hitch, it has me worried because I use the hitch alot.

So, does anyone have pictures of their aftermarket hitch setup? Stock bumper is fine.

I am looking at getting a Reese Titan V.

Thanks in advance!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Hug.gif

John

Jimmy


I'll take some pics of my class V Reese Titan http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif hitch tomorrow for ya! It is the best hitch you'll ever put on your truck!!!! IMO anyway!

What bad things about the hitch?

What bad things about the hitch?


Hey Max Owner! There have been numerous GM hitch failures documented at www.rv.net (http://www.rv.net) in the forum section. You just need to do a search for Hitch Failures. Some are due to high tongue weight, but under limits. Others have been caused by weight distributing hitch systems breaking the receiver tube. But either way, they are breaking, even when indicated limits have not been exceeded.

John


I'll take some pics of my class V Reese Titan http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif hitch tomorrow for ya! It is the best hitch you'll ever put on your truck!!!! IMO anyway!

Thanks Alot!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Hug.gif

John

Max Owner,


I have been one of the owners with a failed hitch; number one I was having trouble with the pin hole elongating about 1/8" in each direction. That made for a lot of banging on the driveline everything you started or stopped. Two: the hitch box would twist and flex when hooking up the weight distribution bars so you never had true distribution to the front of the truck--you could actually feel the truck flex with the steering direction as weight would move from the left and right down the frame rails. When you hitch up take a look at the front of the pin box at the top before you hitch up and then after your weight bars are in place and your ready to go. My pin box would flex/twist down amost a 1/4" away from the bumper (remember factory hitch is actually bolted to the bumper too). Lastly, I run a Reese dual cam system on our 9000 race trailer and a Hensley Arrow on our 32' camping trailer; the Hensley does give you some different forces side to side and it finally started bending the box to the one side. For about 4 weeks I was beating on the Chevy dealer to replace it, they would not do it no matter what, finally just bought a Putnam XDR series class 5 receiver for $150. Still trying to get Chevy dealer to reimburse me for it. I dropped the failed hitch off with the SM. It's amazing the difference in the handling of the truck with the new hitch, no twist, no flex, no nothing; even wife says it handles much better with the trailers attached (yes, she does drive 'em). Love the truck, but the hitch is unsafe! The only thing with the Putnam is that the pin box is about 2" higher from the ground (sits much closer to the bumper) and required adjusting the ball mount heights to make the trailers level, but it was well worth it.


Sorry for the rant, but it makes me angry that we have such good trucks and GM cheaped out on one of the most important pieces making that truck.

Here are some of my Reese Titan V.. just put on 2 days ago!



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http://www.wackywack.com/images/dmax/ReeseTitan1_sm.jpg (http://www.wackywack.com/images/dmax/ReeseTitan1.jpg)


Reese Titan V</TD>
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http://www.wackywack.com/images/dmax/ReeseTitan2_sm.jpg (http://www.wackywack.com/images/dmax/ReeseTitan2.jpg)


Reese Titan V</TD></TR></T></TABLE>






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http://www.wackywack.com/images/dmax/Hitches1_sm.jpg (http://www.wackywack.com/images/dmax/Hitches1.jpg)


Reese Titan V and OEM hitch</TD>
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http://www.wackywack.com/images/dmax/Hitches2_sm.jpg (http://www.wackywack.com/images/dmax/Hitches2.jpg)


Reese Titan V and OEM hitch</TD></TR></T></TABLE>

If you want a really heavy hitch check out DMI. They make agricultural equipment as well as several types of hitches. Some come with crome bumpers, but they will also work with stock bumbers. Mine is designed to be used with their bumper, but it looks good under the stock bumper. The DMI is a cushion hitch that has springs to reduce the jurking that sometimes occurs while pulling. The drawbar also extends about 16 in. and slides side to side to help with hitching.

Thanks for the pics Nick!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Unfortunately, I don't think that'll work with my Ranchhand Bumper.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif It looks like the receiver is closer to the bumper than stock. I have little clearance between the factory hitch and my bumper as it is.

Could you possibly take a measurement of how close the top of the reciever insert is to the bumper? (pic 2 where you have the wiring on top of the hitch[temporary])

Also does anyone know if any other hitch may work with my bumper, (similar drop height from stock bumper)?

Thanks to all.

John

Thanx for the info guys. Never knew.

Been any kind of lawsuit over this? Something failing with in its load ratings.

Been any kind of lawsuit over this? Something failing with in its load ratings.


Max,


None that i have ever read about, but I would think that after a few years and a few hitch failure related incidents, a money hungry lawyer will jump on a class action lawsuit against them.


IMO anyway...


Jeff

Is it just me or is the shank size different? Looks like the OEM has a 2" and the T-5 has a larger shank...maybe 2&amp;1/2"?

Class V hitches are bigger than 2" How much I'm not sure.

Not all Class V receivers are larger than 2". I believe Putnam and Hidden hitch make 2" Class Vs. The Reese Titan is a 2 1/2" receiver. An inexpensive sleeve makes it possible to use a regular 2" draw bar with no problems. The combination might be looser than a fit between a 2" receiver and a 2" draw bar, but I've not found it to be an issue. For those contemplating towing a big TT or similar bumper pull trailer with a Titan V who don't like the sleeve idea, Reese also makes a high capacity Stait-line Dual Cam WD hitch w/a 2 1/2" draw bar as well.

TC

Like this?



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http://www.hitchesonline.com/images/xdr_cl_5.jpg

Graphic may differ from actual hitch due to design &amp; points of attachment.

All Class 5 Receivers come boxed with installation
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Putnam Hitch</TD>
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WC </TD>
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Class V Receiver Hitch</TD>
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15000 lbs. </TD>
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16000 lbs. </TD>
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PH25182 </TD>
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$150.04</TD></TR></T></TABLE></DIV></TD></TR></T></TABLE></CENTER></DIV>

Put a Putnam XDR Hitch on my 2000 2500 it failed, bent the frame on my truck ( 10,000 lb trailer) , changed to the OEM, no problems after that. The OEM utilizes the reinforced bumper for additional support.

Hey 502, here's a shot of my Tork-Lift Superhitch. 15000# rated, dual stacked 2" receivers. It dwarfs the stocker. The stacked receivers work with their extension bars (I have a slide in camper). The bar bolted on the side is for camper hold-down as well.

More info here at the Torklift website (http://www.torklift.com/super_hitch.htm)

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/A59_hitch3.jpg

Thanks to all.. Now I just need to see what will work with my bumper..
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

John

Demaxallis, what part of your Putnam failed and do you know why it failed. Just curious to what info you might have. There is a member over at rv.net that had a factory hitch fail on his 2500 Suburban using a Hensley Arrow which I also use on my 32' 10,000 camper. He's been doing a lot of legwork on the factory hitch. Those of us with Hensley's swear by them but they do put a beating on a hitch!

Sprintmod1,


The Putnam was installed on my older 2000 2500 not my current 2500HD truck. The rear section of the frame on the LD's are smaller. The Putnam hitch used over sized holes in the frame with the supplied square washers. The front mounting tabs and the supplied washers stretched. The resulting fulcrum effect pushed the rear tab up. The frame was pulled down at the front mounts and up at the rear mounts.


Looking at the above picture of the Reese (double click on lower left picture), I see beefier mounting tabs and the front tab is braced. I would get the Reese or the OEM, if I had to do it over again.

sprintmod1 and Demaxallis,


GM changed the frames under the trucks in the 2001 model year. Prior to that, 2500's had what is now the 1500 frame. When the official 2500HD's started being built, they moved up to the 3500 frame. The 2500HD's and 3500's now have the same frame, and the 1500 has the old 2500 frame.


As for the Suburban, I am not aware what size frames they use under them. But...if you are towing with a pickup, you probably won't have the problems with your Hensley Arrow that the older trucks had.

I saw a gusset on the right but not the left? What gives?

Demaxallis,


Thanks for the info on the Putnam. After what I have seen with my factory hitch on my 2500HD, I did not and would not replace with another factory OEM.


I was showing another RV'er my Hensley this weekend at Dover and with that my replacement Putnam hitch and talking about weight distribution, etc., I went across the driveway to point out what was wrong with my factory hitch on the neighbors 2500HD D/A. Interestingly enough, I was pointing out how my hitch failed and what to watch for and in looking at this one, the weld failed and there was a crack in the round cross tube. That owner spent Friday evening getting a new hitch at a RV dealer down the street and with some of my tools he replaced it in an hour Saturday morning. The RV dealer told him on all GM's that come to his dealership and buy a TT over 6,000 lbs, he replaces the OEM hitch and won't sell them a trailer without the replacement going on first! I know my RV dealer has looked at my hitch twice since it failed and just shakes his head.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif