My truck's pmd is starting to fail again... Luckily this one is still under the 1 yr warranty from GM. However... I talked to the parts people at the GM dealership and to get it warrantied they need a print out from the scanner saying that this part is failing, so I took the truck in and got it scanned and came up as nothing wrong(No codes). So they don't want to warranty it and said there is nothing they can do untill it throws a code. BUT to my recollection PMD's dont throw codes, am I right? How can a show them/prove to them that this indeed this my problem.... The warranty expires in July, but the truck wont make it this long, its stalling out once to 7 times every 2 or 3 days! (well you guys know!)
I have had one exchanged under warranty before from the Other GM dealership in town and they didn't say or ask or want any print out saying this was what was wrong, they gave me the new PMD, I put it in, and brought the old one back to them, NO questions asked. To bad I didn't buy this current pmd from this dealership.
So how do I get this thing warrantied? Any Help will be appreciated, thanks guys!

Go to the dealer that you got the one from before.

a failing pmd generally doesnt throw codes

This is a shady dealership move. Take it to the other dealership. PMDs won't throw direct codes, and those guys should know that. They probably DO know that, which doesn't say much for their ethical behaviour.

so how do I get them to warranty it if there is no codes that get thrown from a failing pmd, and the only way they will warranty it is if there are codes that show that.
The very first time that I took my truck to get MY first pmd put on, and I didnt know the problem, the dealership put it on their precious scanner and it came up no codes, but they told me to put in a new pmd. and now this time they are saying that the pmd isn't the problem with there 'no code' scan!

ALSO... why is my PMD always failing about once a year... I have owned this truck just over 3 yrs now and this will be my 3rd PMD that I am going to be putting in.??

Elky,

This is very common with the PMDs. They do not 'throw codes', because there is no feedback loop or sensor that the controller can use to determine that the PMD is failing. This is commonly known, and the dealership guys should know this as well. The reason why the PMDs fail is generally held to be because of the heat problems under the hood, especially the 'hot soak' that the drivers in the PMDs receive when you shut the vehicle down after a hard run. There's really no way to avoid that unless you get the PMD out of the engine bay. That's why so many of the threads on this forum advocate that, and that's why Heath and Kennedy, etc. have harness extensions long enough to get the PMD out of the engine bay.

I have two 6.5 diesel vehicles, and I was able to scrape up enough cash to get both PMDs out of the engine bay. So far, I have not experienced any failures on either vehicle in about 60,000 miles of driving in all kinds of weather.

I recommend that you either take it to another dealer, and if you just can't get them to replace it, then get a new PMD, and get an extension and get it out of the engine bay.

All the best,

Rob :)

Hand the PMD to the dealer tell them the truck is dead. Ask them what code they want and tell them thats it. Problem after that, ask to see the Parts manager. You want your money back. Tell them another pmd fixed your problem so you know it's bad. Might want to ask them about the PMD codes as there are none.

Capturing a PMD failure is like grasping at straws. Ask them what code a PMD fails on. (As said, taint none) If they really, really want to get techincial on it, they can give you the in-flight recorder to capture the next stall event.

It wouldn't hurt to double check all systems first. Stalling is a multiple-cause issue.

Ya those guys at the dealership are saying that there might be water in my fuel, and that might be causing it to stall. Or they also said that maybe because of the weather, from warming up a bit and cooling off. Just a bunch of crap!

They're either lying their butts off or they're incompetent. A bad PMD on a OBD-II will sometimes toss a PO215, but not always. On an OBD-I, no code for PMD, ever. Occasionally, poor PMD performance can cause codes 17, 18, 35, 36 to show on an OBD-I, but those are symptom codes, not cause codes.

I agree with Dieselpro ... tell them that a remote PMD completely solves your problems, and re-connecting YOURS brings the problems back. Immediately.

Get them to phone GM. Better yet, phone GM yourself and report them.

Or just go to another dealer.

I was thinking about going to the other dealership... But I didn't think I could because that is not where I purchased the PMD.

You bought it from GM, right? You still have the bill of sale?
Take it to ANY GM dealership.

Or, if you want to press the point, tell the one you've been going to that they need to call GM.

Heck, put a BIG sign on your truck that says "<DEALERNAME> DOESN'T HONOUR THEIR WARRANTY" and park on the street right outside their entrance. When they tell you to move, tall 'em you CAN'T, because they won't honour the warranty and give you the part you need to start your truck.

If it was not for dealership trying to rip-off Diesel Owners the 6.2 would have a better reputation. And the 6.5 would have followed suit. We have to accept that the 6.5 was a 8.1L replacement for economy. and must be respected as it. GM Dealers replaces the complete Pump and PDM with a rebuild as I found out. So when I had 2nd problem I did not go for warranty service I just bought a remote kit and installed a new one remotly. That was 4 years ago, 2 years after the replacement one was replaced when the truck was 2 years old

So when I call the GM dealership first thing in the morning when they open should I ask what code it is that they need to warranty the PMD, Or should I tell them that there is no code that comes up? I'm just not sure what is the best way to go about this.

Ask them what code is supposed to come up, as you have a friend with a Tech-II that is going to check your codes. (little white lie)

If they can't tell you, then follow earlier suggestion and go in there prepared to fight... suggest they call GM . Better yet, YOU call GM for them. Make sure you have the number handy. Use their phone; I'm sure they won't mind.

Or go to the other dealer.

Ask them what code. That should be your first question.

should I do this through the parts department or the service??

Through the Head guy. If you're gonna catch somebody with their head up their keester, might as well have a witness.

Hey Elky ... just for fun, go out and do the paper-clip thing and see what codes you have showing now. Come back and list them for us.

figure out what code they need to be thrown, then figure out how to throw it, then take the car in. problem solved.

I did that paper clip thing, and I have NO CODES. I called Gm this morning as well and talked to the manager who talked to the tech, And the tech said that the resister was missing and that may be the cause, and told me to call a diesel shop in town to get one. So went to the diesel shop. So I have one now, But I am wondering 2 things... What happens when you run without one, and the 2nd could that be a cause???
The diesel shop also to me to try changing the 'oil pressure switch' they said that may be a problem or the problem. But if its not they said its a good thing to change anyways.

Let me get this straight...

They replaced your last PMD, right?
- even though there were no codes
They won't replace this one
- even though there are no codes
They claim that the resistor is missing
- which they should have moved over last time
- and they sent you to a diesel shop to get one???

Did the diesel shop put the new resistor in your PMD? Did they then hook up a scanner and re-set it? (If they didn't hook up a scanner, you got screwed)

The Diesel shop is trying to tell you to check your lift pump - it's controlled by the oil pressure switch (OPS).

I think you are being screwed by the dealer. Twice. They should have had a resistor, and they should know how to diagnose your truck.

No resistor should throw a code. And missing resistor will not cause stalling.

Missing resistor will not cause stalling on an OBD-I. It will on an OBD-II, according to rumour, after a TDLearn procedure, but NOT on an OBD-I.

I repeat, you're being screwed by the Dealer. Howz it feel, so far?

Ask them to put that in writing.

Yes I got sent to a diesel shop to get a resistor, as I did not have one on. They gave me a #4, and I put it in myself. (didnt know anything about this scanner/re-setting it... What is that?) Took 2 seconds to install.
And the Diesel shop told me to replace the Oil Pressure Switch,which they said sometimes is the cause of stalling, and even if thats not the problem its a good idea to replace it. So I started, took a bunch of stuff apart, could get a wrench on the stupid thing, gave up and put everything back together. So tomorrow I'll ask a few shops how much to install that 35 buck part.
Oh ya GM told me to get that diesel shop to put in a resistor, and take it from there, and see if it stops stalling.

Just out of curiousity, WHY did you move your PMD to the firewall?

I moved my pmd to the firewall because before that is was just on the side of the I.P. and was told to get it off of the engine, now its on the firewall on a aluminum heat sink.
What is the scanning and resetting because of this resistor?? and what do they do exactly, give tell the IP give more fuel the higher the number?
And.. the OPS could that be a possibility?

Did you have to buy the resistor? If you have to buy it, get at least a number 5 resistor, the most preferable one is number 9.

The resistor is used to control the injection rate. The higher the number, the higher the injection rate, although not by much.

Essentially, all you have to do is take off the negative battery cable from both battery for 5 minutes or so. Then the ECM will reset all the data in it.
Reconnect the negative battery cable, start the engine. Rev it to 2000 RPM one minute apart 4 times to input data back into the ECM. Then the normal driving will get the ECM to re-input all the data. That is the way I was inform to do it. Other members can correct me.

My suggestion is to get a long extension and move the PMD outside the engine compartment like the bumper. You already have the heatsink. Search on ome of the old thread on how to do it.

Elky,

Since you moved the PMD to the firewall, the dealership is going to hide behind that fact and not honor the warranty at all (my bet).

They will continue to provide excuses and hope you go away (and to be honest, legally, they probably DON'T have to honor the warranty, as you have modified the equipment).

Remember, law and life isn't fair.

Here are my recommendations:

1) Purchase GMTDScan Tech and the associated cable. (it should work for you even if you have a normally aspirated diesel - plus the developer of the code posts here and I'm sure he can make it work for you)

2) get a laptop and do some learning on the GMTDScan software

3) Purchase a replacement PMD and the relocator from Heath - from what I've read, that's the 'best' one out there (good, better, best).

This will cost you some dough but once you start understanding the equipment, you'll be much better off and will start to save some cash in repairs...

Tighten the nuts on the back of the PMD see if that helps. Get a loaner socket from the auto parts to install the OPS.

heres an update:
Ever since I got the new OPS installed and the resistor the truck hasn't stalled once on me. NOW... Since then it has been a lot cooler(temp) outside. So I really don't know what is going on, Its been about 5 days since its all been installed. BUT when it was stalling it was stalling anywhere from 1-7 times a day or every other day...
Can a failing/faulty OPS cause stalling? And does the OPS affect the guage in the Instrument panel? Becuase it was working properly.

The OPS serves two functions > Oil pressure gauge and second switching the fuel pump off when the oil pressure drops to zero. The switch has separate duties and one does not effect the other. The contacts in the switch are quite poor and can work off and on without you knowing it.

Did you tighten the transitor screws?

No I havent tightened the transitor screws becuase if it is the pmd I want to get a new one under warranty, if the warranty was over than I would/will.
I haven't done anything since installing a new ops and putting in a resistor.