Waste Gate Solenoid [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Waste Gate Solenoid


winchster
09-15-2004, 08:21 PM
1. Can somebody tell me what position the gate is open in? Rod up or down? Also, should it operate with no load and running up the rpm's.


Trouble code 236
2. I get this code about once a month. The dealer says it is IP wavelength out of phase or something like that? How do I repair this.Edited by: winchster

gmctd
09-15-2004, 09:01 PM
Gate is closed, rod up, with 15" vacuum on actuator.


Diesels do not require Boost, unloaded - reving the engine is not a valid test for Boost.


Engine off - rod should move fairly easily, should hear the 'gate clunk when closed quickly.


Engine running, rod should be difficult to move.


25" at vacum pump at idle


15" out of Wastegate solenoid.


If DTC 0236 under extended loading, the WG solenoid may be sticking.


If intermittent, load-no load, bumps, etc, may be wiring.


Try cleaning connections, grounds.

quantum mechanic
09-15-2004, 09:03 PM
236 would be the reason your asking about the WG arm.


The arm should be firmly up at idle. If not, check for vacuum at turbo actuator, should be ~15" and the solenoid, ~25".

winchster
09-15-2004, 09:06 PM
The code has popped twice, both times under load. This truck is ALWAYS loaded and pulling. So if the WG is sticking how do I fix that. I'm buying new solenoid tomorrow, checked for leaks, couldn't find any, still don't have vac gauge that will test to that. Gate moves pretty easy with engine off, haven't checked with it running. Thanks.

quantum mechanic
09-15-2004, 09:14 PM
It's a dealer part. Tell them you saw it for $16 on www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com) , I got $5 off last time I mentioned it. GM PN#1997227

steiner43511
09-16-2004, 03:35 PM
turbomaster......

0lee
09-16-2004, 06:24 PM
Before getting the new solenoid, check for vacuum. The vacuum pump can be broken or start to fail. If you don't have a gauge, you should be able to feel the vacuum at the tubing.

Check the current at the plug of the solenoid(s). There should be about 12V at idle (on all of the three solenoids). Tangle the wires to see if there's a broken one.

Be careful when you unplugg the plugs from the solenoids, there are rubber gaskets on them that can fall off and drop under the intake assembly where it's fun to recover them from. You'd need a torch and a piece of stiff, but thin enough wire to get them out ...

Always carry such a wire and a torch around with your toolbox. They are of the kind of things you MOTT only gonna need when you don't have 'em :)
Edited by: 0lee

lupey6.5
09-16-2004, 07:17 PM
any parts store will have a vac guage for about $15

Texas Diesel Guy
09-16-2004, 07:21 PM
99.9% chance that the new solenoid will fix your all too common problem. A 236 code has nothing in the world to do with your IP.

winchster
09-17-2004, 08:30 PM
Great news. New solenoid. No more black smoke, can't hardly make it smoke now. I'm betting that my MPG will also go back up. Not bad for a $22 part. I know some of you keep pushing the turbomaster but the way I see it if it's worked for over 126,000 miles why mess with it. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif . Besides, I'm about to get a boost gauge, and an egt so that I have a baseline when I start to add mods to get better MPG. I drive 52k+ so 1 or 2 better will save me a lot of money.

tdupuis
09-17-2004, 11:46 PM
The turbomaster is a great part and it's worth putting on for $65. When I put it on my 6.5 a few months back it made a HUGE difference in performance, especially part-throttle. However, if your wastegate solenoid is bad then the truck will STILL throw the code and go into limp mode (I was getting the same thing under load with the turbomaster installed), so the part needs to be functioning properly.