hi guys, i have an 03 ccsb with slightly spongy brakes. when i get a hard stop it just feels wrong. it seems like i should have more stopping power with 4 disc brakes. ive read the threads on guys replacing the rotors/pads, master cylinders and even unplugging the abs sensors, or even bleeding the system. there has to be a reason why these trucks are doing this. ive driven new vehicles 9dodges,fords and chevys) that seem to have better brakes. i have 68k miles on my truck so im out of warrenty. any suggestions?

Try flushing and replacing the fluid.

i did replace all of the fluid in the resivoir this last weekend. i will try and flush the lines with new fluid

did you completely bleed the whole EBCM (abs assembly) as well? You will need a Tech 2 to activate the dump valves, pump motor, and isolation solenoids.

I have felt the same way about the brakes on my 03, after a couple of panic stops, it seems like they go so far and then the computer takes over and thats that. Not real happy when I got my 5 vr in tow, wish there was a way to reprogram them.

Mine have been spongy on my '01 dually since day one. I have had it in several times for this issue and I have had the lines flushed and new fluid to no avail. Seems to me it's just the nature of the beast. I will say that my dually feels much better than my wife's '04 Suburban 2500. Talk about squishy......:eek: Anyways, the dually brakes feel better than the 2500 and I don't know why.
JP

You're all barking up the wrong tree.:cool:

The spongy brakes are to the calipers and/or pads not free to slide.

1. Remove a wheel, compress the pad and caliper assy completely with a C-Clamp. Loosen the fill cap and watch not to spray fluid under the hood if the master cylinder is overfull.

2. Attempt to slide the caliper in and out. It should slide freely. If not, the slide bolts are corroded and the bolts and rubber boots will need replaced. Never use neversieze on these bolts and boots. Only use synthetic brake grease.

3. Attempt to slide the pads on the stainless clips. The should slide with little or no effort but not so loose to rattle. If they don't slide (they probably won't), remove the ear, place it in a vise, remove pads and clips, remove corrosion under the flat part of the clips (test fitting often to prevent removal of too much material). When finished correctly, a pad can be tilted into place and then slide easily across the ear. On a rare occasion, I'll have to remove a little material from the pad backing plate. After cleaning and fitting, I paint (seal from corrosion) all the areas under the clips and the pad ends with Rustoleum RUST REFORMER to prevent recurrence. Make sure to torque the ear bolts back to the truck at 140lb/ft after using Loctite.

Now that you've read all this, the pedal is spongy because you are twisting the calipers and not applying even pressure to each rotor. The tattle sign is uneven wear on the inner pad versus the outer pad.

When you rectify the binding (to be spongy, at least two are binding), it will have the best braking action one could ever expect from a 2 1/2 ton truck.

ps. The same procedures apply to all my Superduty's too.

The procedure to remove rust is not endorsed by GM. The factory service manual clearly states replace the ear if corroded, but I've never had a problem if I do it back to stock clearance. As for some GM trucks having better brakes than others, production tolerances for pad fit vary on all my trucks. Some were too tight while others were perfect. Also, doing this procedure as listed above will prevent the rusty on one side of the rotor syndrome every other person with a GM truck *****es about. Do it this way and do it right, once. And those of us in the rust belt have to do it more than anyone else.

did you completely bleed the whole EBCM (abs assembly) as well? You will need a Tech 2 to activate the dump valves, pump motor, and isolation solenoids.

i did not completly flush the system, i just changed the fluid that was in the resivoir

You're all barking up the wrong tree.:cool:

The spongy brakes are to the calipers and/or pads not free to slide.

1. Remove a wheel, compress the pad and caliper assy completely with a C-Clamp. Loosen the fill cap and watch not to spray fluid under the hood if the master cylinder is overfull.

2. Attempt to slide the caliper in and out. It should slide freely. If not, the slide bolts are corroded and the bolts and rubber boots will need replaced. Never use neversieze on these bolts and boots. Only use synthetic brake grease.

3. Attempt to slide the pads on the stainless clips. The should slide with little or no effort but not so loose to rattle. If they don't slide (they probably won't), remove the ear, place it in a vise, remove pads and clips, remove corrosion under the flat part of the clips (test fitting often to prevent removal of too much material). When finished correctly, a pad can be tilted into place and then slide easily across the ear. On a rare occasion, I'll have to remove a little material from the pad backing plate. After cleaning and fitting, I paint (seal from corrosion) all the areas under the clips and the pad ends with Rustoleum RUST REFORMER to prevent recurrence. Make sure to torque the ear bolts back to the truck at 140lb/ft after using Loctite.

Now that you've read all this, the pedal is spongy because you are twist the calipers and not applying even pressure to each rotor. The tattle sign is uneven wear on the inner pad versus the outer pad.

When you rectify the binding (to be spongy, at least two are binding), it will have the best braking action one could ever expect from a 2 1/2 ton truck.

ps. The same procedures apply to all my Superduty's too.

Thats some good info, maybe you can due a do it yourself write up with pics for all us noobs who have no clue of what to do but love to work on our own trucks, Now that would realy be awesome.

i did not completly flush the system, i just changed the fluid that was in the resivoir

It is good protocol to flush the system at some interval, but the problem is at each wheel, not in the fluid.

Thats some good info, maybe you can due a do it yourself write up with pics for all us noobs who have no clue of what to do but love to work on our own trucks, Now that would realy be awesome.

I'd love to do a full article on this, pics and all, because I'm getting tired of typing it over and over. Any brake problem should be checked at the foundation parts first, not the ABS. Alas, I've done them all so well, I don't think I'll have another in here for quite a while.

As for the ABS, I've only ever had wheel speed sensor failures and corrosion, and improper bleeding after fluid loss for problems and the trucks listed below are only my current fleet. Every GM truck before wasn't sold until at least 200k miles were on it. And, even with some of the other stupid failures and shortcmoings on my GM's, I've finally convinced my employer GM only.

You're all barking up the wrong tree.:cool:
Now that you've read all this, the pedal is spongy because you are twisting the calipers and not applying even pressure to each rotor. The tattle sign is uneven wear on the inner pad versus the outer pad.

When you rectify the binding (to be spongy, at least two are binding), it will have the best braking action one could ever expect from a 2 1/2 ton truck..

Good call on the binding calipers:bow: . My back rotors only had partial contact on the piston side. Took the back rotors off and had them turned and installed new pads. The fronts were in good shape but again had only minimal pad contact on one side. Took all apart as you suggested. The new pads for the rears came with new clips so all I had to do was remove very light corrosion and used a good synthetic brake grease on the caliper pins. Test drove today and the pedal feel and stopping power is hard to believe. The braking system on these trucks are awesome once you get the binding squared away. Before you invest in high dollar rotors and pads.... look at what you have and using the instructions as Heymccall described you'll find you have a top notch braking system under your foot the whole time!!!!!!

Heymccall has hit it on the head. When mine had about 17000 on it , it developed squeaky brakes . Brought it in and the tech took all the brakes apart and thoroughly cleaned everything , including resurface the discs to remove rust . Good tech btw , let me watch and explained everything he was doing . Put it all together using dialectic grease , which is what GM recommended . Have had excellent brakes ever since. Tech recommended doing this service once a year in the salt belt , which I haven't ,too much stuff to take off. At the time it was a $70 service at my dealer. It's time to do my own . It may also be the cure for the squeak problem some are having, it was for me.

I flush my brake system every 2-3 years, using a brake bleeder. This is to remove moisture in the system, moisture = corrosion and possible spongy brakes. With the bleeder, it's very easy with 1 person.
I posted info at link below, post #8 & 10.
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78920&highlight=brakes

I thought I did an adequate bleed, not knowing about the ABS and Tech 2 info heynccall mentioned.
I'm due for another bleed, but don't have the Tech 2.

I'd love to do a full article on this, pics and all, because I'm getting tired of typing it over and over.

Nice write-up.
I've been saving long posts on my computer in WORD.
It saves on typing the next time someone asks a simular question.

im really interested in seeing a do it yourself with pictures. would one of you guys be willing to do one?

im really interested in seeing a do it yourself with pictures. would one of you guys be willing to do one?

You know I jinxed myself telling you I probably wouldn't see one for a while:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: .

I've got an '06 with 37k miles lined up for tomorrow with a very soft pedal. I'm gonna try to tak pics if the other guy in the shop doesn't have it done before I get there.

The best part is the driver doesn't have a brake complaint (I guess he's grown into it:confuzeld ). I caught it when I borrowed it for grocery (parts) getting. I'm gonna try the New Intermediate Shaft tomorrow, too. The stealer says $70 and, by the time I drop and pick it up at the stealer, I will have spent that much on wages for two drivers:mad: .

thanks for your help!