crew cab subwoofer box [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: crew cab subwoofer box


haneym
09-14-2004, 12:09 PM
before selling my 89 reg cab, i took the amp and box with 2 fosgate 10s out, planning on putting in the new truck. i like a little extra thump and think they would compliment the bose stereo system excellent. one question was already answered on how to hook up the amp since someone posted a while back about the plug that give RCA outputs.


that leaves only one question - sub box. i havent done all the calculations yet on whether i can fit a box with enough airspace under the seat, but i wanted to get some other experience and ideas first. i see a couple people have done it. will the seat backs still fold down to put cargo there? i seriously doubt there will be enough room for both so i may only be able to use one. it seems like a waste to use my xplode 4 channel 500w amp for one 10 so i might just sell all of it. any ideas are greatly appreciated!


btw - i have always built my own boxes so thats what i am looking at, but if anyone knows of a good aftermarket, i would consider it.

Turbotug
09-14-2004, 12:36 PM
Try Subbox.net. They have a box that will fit two tens under the rear seat with very little modification. It's alittle short on air space, but with a little poly. filler it will still sound great. The box is kinnda shallow so check the depth of your speakers. I have 10 in. HE's and they fit. Around $200 IIRC and its a nice box!

haneym
09-14-2004, 01:04 PM
turbotug, thanks man that looks like an awesome site! they have the under seat downfire on sale for $170 and the behind the seat for $150. $30 shipping. for that price, its much easier than the hassle of building one (esp considering the price of MDF). i see you have one, how is the quality?


anyone else? pictures would especially be appreciated!

Turbotug
09-14-2004, 01:50 PM
Quality is great! Charcoal carpet, external connections. Good fit, but you lose the use of the fold flat seat. Who needs it anyway you still have the whole bed to use!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif I have the under seat, I haven't seen the the behind one, but there is very little room back there for a good speaker. I'd recommend you go with the under, it sounds good and the girls love to sit in the backhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif.

killerbee
09-14-2004, 05:19 PM
Now I don't mean to burst your bubble, but I can't help myself sometimes. Acoustically the subbox enclosures are pure crap. Now I am talking about stuff you may not be interested in, sound quality, resonance, distortion, coloration, flat response vs "boom box". I am not interested in debating this or "proving" my point. The weight of the enclosure alone is enough to make it a deal breaker, from experience it is not acoustically "dead". The weight of the last enclosure I shipped for the CC was 70 lbs. Your instincts to use just 1 was a good one, but 2 can be put behind the seat (or under) if you select the right driver.


Make your own if you have the skill, it will be far better, if properly braced, and aligned with drivers that meet the limited volume of these applications. Those drivers likely will be misaligned, but if you send me the model, I can post some response curves for specified volume boxes.. There is no replacement for DIY.


Turbotug, can you tell me who sells 10" HE's? T/S specs?

haneym
09-14-2004, 09:32 PM
masterp2,


can you tell me more please? i dont know a whole lot about audio since im not into the high dollar stuff or competitions, i just like powerful and clean sound. i am also not familiar with some of the terms you use, like drivers. is this a spec of the actual woofer or the box? i have built 3 boxes before and they all worked great but i just calculated airspace. also, what do you mean about the weight and the box being "dead"? i have always used MDF and thought thats what just about everyone uses. do you make and sell boxes or just into it as a hobby? any additional info or links you could provide would be really helpful.


fwiw - i have 2 fosgate punch xlc 10s with a sony xplode amp that i was planning on using.

Turbotug
09-14-2004, 10:00 PM
Masterp2,


My subs are also Fosgate, as noted in my sig, and the box seems to perform quite well. I have had these same subs in a different box, bigger, and they did sound better, but this was a trunk size box in my old car. I just added a little poly pillow stuffing to each side and it was good enough for me. We are in the same area if you care to have a listen. I don't recall this box weighing even close to 70 lbs, maybe with the subs in the box and they're pretty heavy.

killerbee
09-14-2004, 10:01 PM
I am into this as a hobby, i have some posts on the subject here. also diysubwoofers.org and diyaudio.com. A couple of places to start.


www.hometheaterforum.com/htforum (http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htforum)


some links


http://www.danmarx.org/audioinnovation/links2.html


http://www.speakerbuilding.com/diy/


http://ldsg.snippets.org/index.php3


http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/Loudspeaker_construction.html#Creating_a_sound_spo nge


and yes the patent office, who know's what you can learn


http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2 Fsearch-bool.html&r=0&f=S&l=50&TERM1=ported+loudspeaker&FI ELD1=&co1=AND&TERM2=&FIELD2=&d=ptxt

killerbee
09-14-2004, 10:05 PM
Brandon,


I have lots of time, I'd love to hear your rig. I'll put some fresh batteries in the SPL meter. Sorry we can't have a shootout, mine is obscenely stock at the moment. But I'll show you a home sub I am in the process of developing. PM time.

killerbee
09-14-2004, 10:09 PM
I don't have the xlc 10 in my database, so I'll need a link or the actual thiele/small specs to model it.

haneym
09-15-2004, 09:24 AM
thanks ill check out those links and read up. the xlc was the model before the dvc so its no longer on fosgates webpage. the subs are about 3 yrs old. i keep all the manuals from everything i buy so ill have to dig em out to get the specs.

killerbee
09-15-2004, 07:29 PM
Brandon, what is the source signal for your subs, i.e. how did you deal with the Bose circuitry? LOC?

DuckhunterInTN
09-16-2004, 10:11 AM
one question was already answered on how to hook up the amp since someone posted a while back about the plug that give RCA outputs.





I searched for the thread about the RCA plug but could not find it...do you remember which thread had that info? Thanks.

killerbee
09-16-2004, 10:20 AM
search "pac adapter"

haneym
09-16-2004, 12:16 PM
I searched for the thread about the RCA plug but could not find it...do you remember which thread had that info? Thanks.





anything to help out a fellow duck hunter!


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11617&KW=sub


http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=90129366&loc=111&sp=1Edited by: haneym

DuckhunterInTN
09-16-2004, 01:22 PM
Thanks guys!http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif





Haneym, you getting ready for the season yet??

Turbotug
09-16-2004, 04:00 PM
I used an LOC, tapped into the wires for the factory sub inside the console. The factory sub is a dual voice coil, so I used one side for left and the other for right. Don't remember colors but they are twisted pairs.

DuckhunterInTN
09-16-2004, 05:18 PM
what is a LOC?





I don't have the bose, so I don't guess I have a sub to tap into...

killerbee
09-16-2004, 06:01 PM
Line Output Converter, and is the second best method by a considerable margin. Go with the PAC OEM-1 for your vehicle application for far cleaner and wider range sound, unbounded by the bose marketing genious's. it's plug and play (when applicable).


Although many people are pleased with an LOC, even the cleanest of LOC's are bounded by signal processing that occurs by upstream bose circuitry (laughable). Add in the noise generated by hi-level to line-level reduction and the difference is very audible. The PAC adapter captures line-level signals before any amplification or signal processing.


JMOhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

BlueOx03
09-16-2004, 07:26 PM
There's really NO need for an LOC or a OEM-1 with the Bose because there are already low level signals between the HU and the amp, just tap the front low level signals and you're good to go. Usually I just solder on some RCAs. the only real gain with using an OEM-1 is you can get a non fading output, however if you tap into the front channels and set up your amp right you'll never know the difference except you didn't waste money. The OEM-1 just adds bells and whistles and of coarse plug and play, but like I said it's easy.

Somethings to think about when audio upgrades are on your mind...

Wether it has a Bose amp and speakers or not ALL of the factory HUs in these trucks are Delco.

The front speakers are 2ohm, so if you replace the speakers the front one won't be as loud if they're 4ohm.

After I took apart my Bose amp, I found out why..
The amp is not five or six channels, its four. The sub is DVC because it's tied into the front channels. To break it down, the HU puts out four channels to the amp. the amp has four 4ohm channels...two power the rear speakers...two power the sub and front full range speakers...the crossovers are built into the amp after the signal is amplified.

Here's some opinions of mine.
The biggest gain you'll get in sound quality will be a replacement HU. Ask John Kennedy, he had some awesome Morels running off the stock HU through a PG amp and it was night and day when he changed the HU to a Pioneer P-940MP. The Delco is a piece of poop. Along with better D/A converters you'll get a better EQ and electronic crossover networks. Even with a stock system, a good(not crazy expensive) HU will make a huge difference.
If you replace the HU first with a good one it should have 3 sets of pre-outs. Use two sets to the Bose if you got it, then use the other set for subs down the road. then if you want later you can replace the full range speakers and amp. The factory wire is not the best in the world, however it doesn't totally suck either. You could actually use the factory wire from the Bose amp and put a small for channel amp in its place. Just run a bigger power wire.

If you really want the best sound quality, rip everything out, Cascade the whole truck, put in a whole new sound system to your taste, and transmit signals from the HU to the Amp via SymbiLink.

It's all about what you want and how much dough you got...

I hope this helps some of you guys out...

Ox

killerbee
09-16-2004, 08:05 PM
Nice post. What do you like for door drivers? HU? I'd just like some supporting info why you don't like the delco signal. Not saying you are wrong.


There are some other advantages to staying stock, crime being one that comes quickly to mind, I like stealth.

BlueOx03
09-16-2004, 09:02 PM
Thanks! For drivers I like Morel, JL XRs the best. I love three way components! Kenwood and Pioneer make some good stuff. MB Quarts are good, but way over priced IMO. I've done some stuff with Alphasonik stuff and it was surprisingly good for the price, good bang for the buck.

I stick with Pioneer for HUs great sound without the alpine price. I've had some Kenwoods that were good, my favorite to date is the DEH P-860MP. The new DEH P8MP is great for those who don't want to add a full range amp.

You really need an explanation for my dislike of the delco HU? They may look different, but not much has changed for many years. Two or three band EQ vs. 13 band in my 860, hell even cheap HUs are starting to have three band parametric EQs. MP3/WMA playback 24 bit D/A converters...

Name one sound quality advantage to staying stock....

If crime is really a problem, here's some options..move or get an alarm. like stealth, don't drive a $40K+ truck, tint your windows...
I currently have an several thousand dollars worth of stuff in my truck at any given time. I protect it with a CompuSTAR, however I leave the keys in it half the time anyway. I guess if I walk out one day and it's gone, I'll call USAA and work out getting another one. I'd rather enjoy my music than not because I'm worried about it. If would rather let a thief run your life than enjoy your music that's your choice. As far as I know I get one shot at this so I'm gonna drive the truck I want, jam my favorite tunes and die with a big a$$ grin on my face.

It's all about what you want...to each his own...

Ox

killerbee
09-16-2004, 10:04 PM
What's your address? Kidding.


I have XM. Do I have to trash that to put in a HU?


Did you ever experiment with keeping the stock HU, with alternate amplification, drivers, etc.?


Compustar? What's that?

DuckhunterInTN
09-17-2004, 09:44 AM
Line Output Converter, and is the second best method by a considerable margin. Go with the PAC OEM-1 for your vehicle application for far cleaner and wider range sound, unbounded by the bose marketing genious's. it's plug and play (when applicable).








Oh ok, yeah I have used those before. I just wasn't up on the acronyms...http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif

BassinRVer
09-17-2004, 09:46 AM
Here another site for boxes. www.subthump.com (http://www.subthump.com)