I am about to change my injectors and have a question or 2.
Looks like the high pressure line nut on the injectors is 19 mm but would like to confirm this before I buy one.

Any other tips would be helpful. Injector torque, line bleeding without the engine starting, and or turbo removal hints.

It is 19mm....

Nuts on the turbo flange are 15mm and the bolts on the oil return line for the turbo are 10mm....

Do each individually, Howie - gives the injector pipe less time to drain before you reconnect it.

Should fire right away, with that technique.

Save your wrench money, use a 3/4 inch open end wrench on the line nuts, you need something like a crow foot though if you want to use a torque wrench to re-install.

I didn't do anything special to bleed the lines, just did the turbo side injectors first, start and run for a few seconds, then the driver's side.

To remove the turbo, I decided that the easiest was a short 15mm box end wrench, I tried different combinations of extensions and universal joints, but with less success. 10 mm socket with an extension for the two bolts holding the drain pipe.

The band clamp on the downpipe can be reached with a few extensions from the front, providing the head of the bolt is oriented correctly.

Turbo removal is much easier if you take the inner fender off first.

The only thing I had a little trouble getting was one of the nuts off the oil return line closets to the engine. That was solved by using a 10mm "stubby" wrench from Canadian Tire.

Dave

Do each individually, Howie -



Are you working with the turbo in place or starting the truck without the turbo and exhaust hooked up?

I had pulled the -4 turbo to install the -8, so it was off - if you try that, you could do the turbo side first so it wouldn't be hot, then the opposite side, as CHBob suggested.

Well I stated this project and have a question.

The turbo is out.

The sheet metal heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the injectors. Do I have to remove some of the dvalve cover bolts to remove this shield? Once unbolted can it be removed while the injector lines are still hooked up or just set aside to get to the injectore?

The 2 glow plugs that are inside the tube heat shields. I cann't get the clip to release. I made a hook out of a coat hanger to go in and grip the clip. Pulling on the hook the clip will not release. Does the heat shield hold the clip in place and have to come off first?

No - a couple sheet metal screws hold the shield - it is removable with injector pipes inplace

The gp terminals are removed by pulling on the insulator, but you can unbolt and pull the shields back and push them off with a scewdriver balde

I had already removed the 2 screws at the top that also hold the pipe clip and thought the shield should come out but there is something else holding the shield. I can force the shield back a bit but can't see what is holding it.

Are the insulators in the heat shield any different than those on the other GP? I have realy pulled on one of them with my hook but they are not moving. All other insulators come off with a light hand pull.

That heat sheild is a very tight friction fit, there are tabs on the exhaust manifold holding it in. Should just be a good tug with the 2 screws removed.

To get those centre 2 glow plugs I found it much easier to remove the shields. You can then slide the shield back and pull directly on the connector. When connecting to the new plug feed the wire through the shield, plug it into the GP and then install the shield. It saves messing around with screwdrivers and needle nose pliers.

Dave

The passenger side if mounted and ready for an attempt at starting but a question first.
The hose at the bottom of the turbo oil drain line, is that any type of special hose due to the heat or will fuel hose work?

I would think any oil resistent hose would work that can handle the temp, very little pressure there, mostly heat. Fuel hose should work fine IMO.

Correct, no pressure there, just heat and oil meringue, so make sure the hose is the exact diameter to fit the tubing - cannot be any restriction in that drain.

Now for the real problem. Who said the drivers side was the easy side?

All 4 line nuts are turning the injectors. Looks like the guy on that side of the assembly line was not using the torque wrench that day. I can get a wrench on the body of the injector but not sure where I will get the gorilla to hold it.

Any thoughts?

Manipulate the wrenches so they're a hands-breadth apart, squeeze them together like a large pair of pliers.

Or, if the pipes are not also twisting, allow the wrench on the injector body to rotate into the head - let the 6.5 be your Huckleberry..............

Well with significant effert of 2 individuals, and pipes on the end of both wrenches, we got the line nuts off the injectors on the drivers side. Three came off with effert but #1 fought to the end and took the first 2 threads off the injector leaving that material in the line nut threads. After about 1/2 hour of fine work with a pick I was able to clean the threads and save having to buy a new line and the manifold removal.

Why the line nuts on this side were so tight I can't say. There was some evidence of never seize on the injector threads. They just must not have been torqued anywhere near spec.

With everything back togeather the truck started on que and ran smooth. Just to top thinks off the cap on #7 injector was had to get on and leaked on startup.

WTG, at least the leaky cap was an easier one to get to!